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Radiant Heat System Design Question

Igloo

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Oct 14, 2014
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Hello, I'm new to this forum and am asking this question because I found quite a bit of information about radiant floor heating in other posts here.

I'm converting a 4x4 ambulance into a winter camper for weekend ski trips in Colorado. I have a really good sleeping bag... but I would much rather have a really good heating system and use the sleeping bag as a back up. Single digit temps are common and I've experienced temps as low as -26F.

I also do not want to use propane, I want to keep this build strictly off grid solar. The electrical system I have is 800ah of LiFePo4 battery, with 480W of solar panel to recharge.

My plan is to use 3/8" pex tubing filled with propylene glycol in the floor and 1 wall. I will use a 12v 2.65gpm pump to circulate the fluid. The "boiler" is where it gets interesting. I plan to make an array of pex, and cover it with (10x) 5v heating pads controlled by a simple on/off switch. The 5v heating pads are the type found here, (sparkfun.com), and a few other places. Other than a fill valve that would be all the parts.

This is the part that I'm not sure of:

The idea is that since the system will be running at only one temperature (on or off only), I can use a fixed amount of eutectic fluid and not have to worry about over expansion. Therefore I wont need an expansion tank and relief valves, keeping the system closed.

Is this ok? Having the system closed like that with no expansion tank?

The pex tubing will be 1 continuous piece (one end connects to the fill valve, the fill valve connects to the pump, the pump connects to the other end of the pex), so the chance of a leak would be minimized. I imagine that it would take a long time to heat the system up, but the low voltage / amps of the total system will allow me to continuously run it off of battery power for over 3 days without sun (3 days without sun would be extremely rare in CO). So I can essentially just leave this system on all winter and my truck would always be warm. The whole system will use about 1/2 gallon of fluid, so the fluid would pass through the "boiler" 5 times per minute for heating, 20% of the fluid will be in the "boiler" being heated at any given time.

Thoughts and ideas would be appreciated. If it will safely work I may split it into 2 separate pex/pump systems that use the same 5v "boiler" array (one system for floor, 1 system for wall). I could also use a propylene glycol and water mix to reduce expansion, but i would be concerned if water would be able to evaporate from the system? I could also double the percentage of system fluid in the "boiler" to 40% if necessary.
 
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Randy in Maine

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Why not just start the car up and use the hot water from the engine to heat up the space using a "school bus" type heater?
 
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Igloo

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Oct 14, 2014
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Why not just start the car up and use the hot water from the engine to heat up the space using a "school bus" type heater?

The insulation in the back of the ambulance is pretty good for a vehicle, but it's still not great. It already has a similar cabin heater in the back, but I would have to run the engine all night for that, the gas would add up quick.

Plus there's not many places to park; no winter street parking, no overnight parking at public parks/lots, and 90% of the forest roads up there are gated in the winter.

My parking options are limited to; free overnight parking in an open parking structure (still cold) (there is an enter after 5pm and leave by 10am program run by the town to discourage drunk driving), parking at the gate of a mountain road (legal, but heavily used by snowmobilers and cross country skiers, so very busy), or parking illegally at a hotel or apartment complex (they check permits and tow daily up there, very strict).

All of my legal parking options in the winter are somewhat public so I need to employ a certain amount of stealth.
 

Randy in Maine

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I sort of did what you want to do years ago.

I used a "Mr. Buddy" heater (window partially open), a little Pelonis ceramic heater (when I had 120 volts), and bought a really good sleeping bag.

I don't think you could generate enough electricty for what you want to do to actually work.
 
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Heavymetalmechanic

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Apr 4, 2013
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
The main reason stationary solar thermal radiant systems are so efficient is due to having a very large thermal mass. Either in the form of a large (300-1000 gallon) reservoir or an extra thick concrete pad/foundation.

For what you are proposing you will need to add large amounts of heat to the system constantly, which you do not have enough battery capacity to do considering the proposed temperatures you hope to overcome.

You would likely see a beter return on your energy budget running a small electric forced air heater with a thermostat. And a good sleeping bag.

Just my opinions, I spent a lot of time researching a similar idea for my camping trailer, it always fell apart with the volume of water needed, while remaining mobile.

Pm me if you do end up finding a method that works, I'm still experimenting too.
 

Rookie2

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Western Pa.
Not enough power for the heat you'll need. Think 12v blankets !
check ebay, there are 12volt air heaters that will work.
 
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theoldwizard1

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