Radiant Heat

[Overhaulin63]

I live in Ohio and I am considering radiant heat for a new garage, but I can't seem to find anyone in the area that specializes in this product. I am looking at a garage 34'x40' and I have no idea what a system like this would cost. I am also considering going 6" on the concrete to support a four post unit and a large motorhome as well.

Should I be looking for a concrete or a heating comany to supply and install?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[bmwjerry]

Youcould try contacting this company for a referral to a local contractor. I am curious as to what you find out, just talked with a contractor who has done this before, this is the company he used. But, if you have yet to pour concrete, they say the floor heating is the best.
Detroit Radiant Products Company
21400 Hoover Road, Warren, MI 48089
800-222-1100
[email protected]
Please post what you find out

 

[wedge40]

My cement guy is going to install my pex and manifolds. I'm pretty sure you could also have a heating/cooling guy do it as well. The final setup will done by a heating guy.

Wedge

 

[matouse3]

At the very least get your pipe in the cement, you can hook it up to a heat source later and space out the cost. This is what I did. You, of course, have to put insulation and a vapor barrier under your slab. I, and many others on here, put in the pipe, manifold, insulation, and vapor barrier themselves to save money. Blueridge.com is where I ordered from and they can help you out with design and set you up with package that will work for you. I built a 32x40 and did the insulation and pipe layout in one day and one evening after work with the help of my father.

My build: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152392

 

[theoldwizard1]

I live in Ohio and I am considering radiant heat for a new garage, but I can't seem to find anyone in the area that specializes in this product. I am looking at a garage 34'x40' and I have no idea what a system like this would cost. I am also considering going 6" on the concrete to support a four post unit and a large motorhome as well.

Should I be looking for a concrete or a heating comany to supply and install ?

Keep looking ! The heating company needs to spec out and approve the installation of the tubing, including zoning before the concrete is poured.

The concrete company should be experienced in pouring over radiant tube heat and willing to accept liability of any damage (pressure test before the pour, watch the pressure during the pour and verify after the pour).

I don't think you need 6" concrete. 4" should be adequate (except of course where the footings will be for the 4 post lift). If you want more strength, spec a higher strength concrete. There are other "things" you can add to the concrete mix (fibers) that will improve strength.

BTW, you forgot a major issue ! Insulation. Only a good heating company can tell you how much you really need. I would guess that 2" is minimum More is always better.

 

[Overhaulin63]

Thanks everyone for all the great information, this is more than I've been able to find anywhere....what a great site.

Thank you all again and I'll be happy to share any good information I can find.

 

[Rhsty]

You can do quite a bit of it yourself to save some bucks. We use 2" styrofoam blue board for insulation over the vapor barrier we then staple the tube to the foam, put 6x6 mesh over that so it can be lifted into the concrete and the tubes stay down on the foam, make sure
You have air pressure on the tubes and manifolds during the pour. We keep our tubes down low so they wont get drilled into later. Have done too many this way to count and everyone of them haved worked great.

 

[Randy in Maine]

Suggestion...

Keep your PEX tubing about 4' away from where your car lift posts are going to go.

Your compressor is likely to mount to the concrete slab also so no tubuing right there either.

 

[Burl]

Where in OH? I live in northern WV, possibly I could help with materials, pics of my build, etc.

 

[BadgerBoilerMN]

There is no reason to get within a foot of future perforations and anchored bolts can be poured into place. 6" is deep, a little rebar may be a better choice.

It would be the exceptional concrete man that could be trusted to design and install a radiant slab heating system; in part or whole.

Find a heating contractor that will take responsibility for the entire job before you dig.

Though it saves very little (we install nearly 1000' of pex/hr) we do provide radiant floor design with CAD layouts nationwide, and PEX tube, installation, and test materials for some of our DIY customers locally. You may find a local HVAC or plumbing contractor to help with the skilled labor if you have a proper drawing to follow.

 

[tdkkart]

Suggestion...
Keep your PEX tubing about 4' away from where your car lift posts are going to go.

4 FEET???

So you suggest that each lift post have a 8ft diameter clear zone with no tubing in it??

Really??

 

[koditten]

I think this is a bit of overkill. There is no need to keep the pex that far away. The only reason is to have that large of an area is if you are installing a 2 post lift and are not entirely sure where you want to place it. You will be able to drill the floor with out worries about hitting a tube.

At minimum, take good pictures of you tubes before the concrete is installed. Use a tape measure for refference and lable the orientation of the pics. Digital pictures are cheap, punching a hole in the pex is not.

 

[4everRS]

Just from observations I've had with this process in my area:

The concrete guys usually level the site, vapor barrier, 2" ridged foam, then staple the tubing down with what looks like a specialized gun. Then they install the drain/drains and relevant plumbing. Then wire and/or rebar placement. Next, and what seems to be important, they fill the tubing with water BEFORE pouring the cement. This keeps the tubing down, so it won't try to "float up" during the finishing of the cement.

Heating guy finishes the rest.

 

[BadgerBoilerMN]

Or just start over.

Rough grade, install plumbing, finish grade, 6mil minimum vapor barrier, XPS to local specification - minimum 2", staple tube to foam with foam staple gun, rebar on top of tube if necessary.

We never use a water test, but air to 100psi/15 minutes (PEX tube "floating" in a slab is a myth), 30psi for the pour or until the smart guy show up to set the manifolds, boiler and controls.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

One of the hardest things to figure out in the garage I built in 2006 was EXACTLY where the lift was going to go.

Once I did, I kept my PEX tubing back about 18-inches from those areas. In fact, I removed the polystyrene in the 2 post areas as well and just poured all of that 2" deeper right down to the compacted sub grade. So....the floor is 4" thick except under the lift posts where it is 6" thick.

I don't know that it was needed, but it made sense at the time.

Phil

 

[Randy in Maine]

4 FEET???

So you suggest that each lift post have a 8ft diameter clear zone with no tubing in it??

Really??

Actually is is 2' from the post locations. I just left out a 4' x4' pice of the 2" thick insulation where those posts will go in ther center and did not run tubing in that "hole". Bendpak suggested that.

 

[matouse3]

Next, and what seems to be important, they fill the tubing with water BEFORE pouring the cement. This keeps the tubing down, so it won't try to "float up" during the finishing of the cement.

I've never heard of "floating" being an issue with stapled down pex. I would suggest against a water fill mainly because its unnecessary and most kits come with an air pressure check kit, but also because if you don't plan to hook the system up right away, you certainly don't want to go through a winter with water (partial or full) in the lines.