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Radiant Tube Heaters

87YJ

Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2005
Messages
13
Location
Ohio
I'm looking at putting a radiant tube in my 28X32 pole building. Will be used to keep the temp tolerable in the winter.

I'm leaning toward either Mr. Heater or Spaceray. Would appreciate some feedback from owners of either type.

How have they held up, what's the quality like and would you buy the same brand again?

Thx!
 
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rmack898

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
3,158
Location
Honu Grove NE Florida
I have a 40x40x12 and I have a single 20' LPG fired tube. It's made by Superior Radiant Products and I bought it on-line from an outfit in Utah. It cost me $850 delivered complete with everything need to install it. My building is tight and well insulated and I keep the t-stat set at 65* all the time. The heater is quiet and does a nice job of keeping the shop nice and warm. This is my 3rd winter in this shop and I go through about 400 gallons of propane for the entire heating season (Nov.-Apr.). In hindsight, I would put radiant heat in the floor if I had to do it all over again, but I think think that the radiant tube beats the hell out of the forced air units I had in the old shop. One other thing with the radiant tube, you can't turn it down when you leave and turn it back up when you return. To be efficient, you need to set it and forget it. (I sound like a Ronco commercial)
 

steve392

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 21, 2006
Messages
51
Location
New Jersey
YJ,

I have a Re-verber-ray radiant heater in my 24'x32' shop. Works very well. Its a two-stage unit, 28,000/40,000 BTU. Runs on propane and I have no complaints. I also set the 'stat and leave it alone...usually at 55*.
before you decide, take a look here:
www.reverberray.com

Steve
 

putttn

Active member
Joined
Feb 5, 2007
Messages
27
Anyone use a wood stove? I have heard that if you do use any heat source in the garage it can be a red flag for your home insurance. I have a wood stove my wife didn't like because it was "dirty" that was in our front room. It is being replaced by a propane unit so the wood stove is either being sold or utilized in the garage. Problem is, have to have a 8 foot stack right out the top of the garage which is pretty unsightly.
 

mjribeiro

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 30, 2006
Messages
72
Location
Whitehouse Station NJ
I have the Mr Heater 10' U tube configuration. I'm very happy with it - some day I may even insulate the building and make its live a little easier. 36x40, 12 ceilings.....
 

mwaz

New member
Joined
Feb 23, 2006
Messages
2
Location
Idaho
Mine's a 50,000 BTU unit (CGTH-50) from Roberts-Gordon hung from a 15' garage ceiling. http://www.rg-inc.com/caribe-infrared-garage-heater.htm A feature I like is the co-axial intake/exhaust that pulls fresh air in from outside and vents spent gasses through the same opening in the wall. You don't have to worry about sawdust or volatile fumes causing a problem (KABOOM!). It also comes with a nice looking wire grill that prevents hitting the tube if you're manipulating a length of pipe, etc. I installed a on/off toggle switch next to the heater control so I can turn it on or off without disturbing the temperature setting. Purchased from Luke @ Rocky Mountain Radiant in Utah, (888) 785-6074, for just over $900. Good service, quality product, works great. I'm a happy camper! :thumbup:
 

Steevo

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Joined
Aug 18, 2009
Messages
8,738
Location
43.49600, -112.04300
I have the Mr Heater 10' U tube configuration. I'm very happy with it - some day I may even insulate the building and make its live a little easier. 36x40, 12 ceilings.....

mjribeiro,

With a 10' U-Tube unit in a 36x40 space, where did you mount it for best coverage, and what kind of outside temps do you have there in winter?
 

krooser

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2005
Messages
2,377
Location
Waupaca, Wisconsin
I have a 30' Superior radiant tube heater in my 30X50 shop. I only heat about 1100 sq. ft. of the building.

I have good insulation... R-30 or better in the ceiling and R-19 + 1" of styrofoam in the wall. My heater is rated at 80,000 btu which is WAY more than I need. The dealer recommended that heater but I should have purchased a 40K unit.

My ceiling is only 10' so my heater is mounted on a 45 degree angle hanging from the ceiling. I can keep the temp at about 55F 24/7 and my NG bill is about $90.00... would be cheaper with a smaller unit. I DO crank it up to 75F when I'm out there working.... I worked in too many unheated garages in my time so i like to be warm in my old age.

Two years ago I was laid off and I kept the shop a toasty 75F... a $360.00 NG bill stopped that in a hurry.

I'm very happy with the heater... it works fine and can be very economical to run. Easy to install, too.
http://www.superiorradiant.com/
 
Last edited:

oldtractors

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 19, 2007
Messages
374
Location
Iowa
I had a Superior Radiant 45k BTU residential heater in my old shop. Worked great and installed in an afternoon. My new shop (30x50x14') will get a 80,000 BTU Superior radiant in it. It will have a 30' long tube.
 
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djkilgus

Active member
Joined
Sep 8, 2009
Messages
39
Location
Central, IL
mjribeiro,

With a 10' U-Tube unit in a 36x40 space, where did you mount it for best coverage, and what kind of outside temps do you have there in winter?

I have the same questions.

I have a 45X30X14(peak) pole barn that has foam insulation throughout and was hoping to get by with a 10' U shaped 50K radiant heater in the middle of the peak, but wanted to know if I'd have good heat coverage on the ends with only 10' of tube.
 

djkilgus

Active member
Joined
Sep 8, 2009
Messages
39
Location
Central, IL
I have a 40x40x12 and I have a single 20' LPG fired tube. It's made by Superior Radiant Products and I bought it on-line from an outfit in Utah. It cost me $850 delivered complete with everything need to install it. My building is tight and well insulated and I keep the t-stat set at 65* all the time. The heater is quiet and does a nice job of keeping the shop nice and warm. This is my 3rd winter in this shop and I go through about 400 gallons of propane for the entire heating season (Nov.-Apr.). In hindsight, I would put radiant heat in the floor if I had to do it all over again, but I think think that the radiant tube beats the hell out of the forced air units I had in the old shop. One other thing with the radiant tube, you can't turn it down when you leave and turn it back up when you return. To be efficient, you need to set it and forget it. (I sound like a Ronco commercial)

rmack898,

Which model did you go with, where did you place it, and does it heat the areas not directly underneath the tube well?

Thanks!
 

krooser

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2005
Messages
2,377
Location
Waupaca, Wisconsin
I have the same questions.

I have a 45X30X14(peak) pole barn that has foam insulation throughout and was hoping to get by with a 10' U shaped 50K radiant heater in the middle of the peak, but wanted to know if I'd have good heat coverage on the ends with only 10' of tube.

The heater works like the sun... it will heat the entire concrete floor (plus everything directly under it and within several feet) and that will act as a heat sink and keep the entire building warm. The higher the heater the better the distribution...

Looks like you'd be a good candidate for a 50K 20 or 30' unit, too.
 

Dragster Racer

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 9, 2008
Messages
1,891
Location
Morrison, IL
A freind heats his auto shop with the tubes, and lilkes it. He also uses ceiling fans to mix the air a little and keep corners warmer. I have heard that you don't want it above the where the garage door is when it is up, since they can warp the door? Maybe that helps with placement.
 

mudrcr

Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2009
Messages
6
Location
Western ND
I have 2 reznor radiant heaters in my 40 x 60 x 14' shop on a hill in North Dakota where it can get -40 some times. I like them very much, only complaint is a little noisy when warming up and cooling down. I have had them for 14 years on the only problem has been the tiny orfice will get plugged and need cleaning on the electronic starter but it about a 10 min job to remove and use the tiny torch cleaning tip tool to clean out. The most important thing is to leave the heater on, I keep my shop at 55 degs and never shut it off, the heat stored in your floor, walls tools ect will keep the heaters from running when you get a quick temp drop outside. I use natural gas and my worst bill was 231.00 for gas in January in North Dakota, and I run vehicles and my S300 skid steer in the thaw off daily. Other than floor heat, radiant is the best and most efficent, but you CANT turn it off and on, you have to maintain even temps and you will save $$$ and always have a warm shop, also 55 degs with radiant is like 68-70 with forced air and you dont have cold and hot spots in your shop.
 

krooser

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Joined
Jun 3, 2005
Messages
2,377
Location
Waupaca, Wisconsin
I have 2 reznor radiant heaters in my 40 x 60 x 14' shop on a hill in North Dakota where it can get -40 some times. I like them very much, only complaint is a little noisy when warming up and cooling down. I have had them for 14 years on the only problem has been the tiny orfice will get plugged and need cleaning on the electronic starter but it about a 10 min job to remove and use the tiny torch cleaning tip tool to clean out. The most important thing is to leave the heater on, I keep my shop at 55 degs and never shut it off, the heat stored in your floor, walls tools ect will keep the heaters from running when you get a quick temp drop outside. I use natural gas and my worst bill was 231.00 for gas in January in North Dakota, and I run vehicles and my S300 skid steer in the thaw off daily. Other than floor heat, radiant is the best and most efficent, but you CANT turn it off and on, you have to maintain even temps and you will save $$$ and always have a warm shop, also 55 degs with radiant is like 68-70 with forced air and you dont have cold and hot spots in your shop.

well said...
 

mudrcr

Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2009
Messages
6
Location
Western ND
I will bring my kenworth semi in with a stand up sleeper which is a fiberglass roof with about 20-24 clearance to the heater and never had a problem, it gets warm to the touch but has not hurt the clear coat or marker lights on top.
 

e-tek

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2007
Messages
10,690
Location
Saskatoon, SK
I know you didn't ask and you may have already made your decision......but I'd like you to know the differences I found when researching heater types - and why I went with a forced-air unit.

Radiant heat tubes: take up a LOT of space. They have to hang 18inches from ceiling and wall. They heat what is right in front of them: your cars, your bench, your head (!) and the walls. I've seen garages where the drywall is burned and warped fromn the heat. They take up a lot of space otherwise used for storage or swinging cranes...and they are NOT cheap to run - you cannot set them down, then turn them up when you're in the shop.

On the other hand, the forced-air hanging heater takes up very little room, can be used to maintain, turn up or down and changes the temp in the building in minutes. They are cheap to run. Mine runs very little when it's minus 30-40C, to keep the building at a constant 7C. When I walk in, I turn it up and it's 15C in minutes. No hot spots.

Of course to each his own and your wants/needs may vary!
 
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