Radiant vs Something else

[bedn0009]

I've spent a ton of time searching and reading these forums, but what I can't find is an idea of what my options are (in Northern Wisconsin) to heat my 32 x 28- two story woodworking/storage shop. I have natural gas that will be run to my shop. I plan to keep it at 40 degrees unless I'm working in there. This is what I think I know:

• In floor radiant - pex cost is about $1000 installed, but what is boiler cost? Does the efficiency provide a break even at some point?
• Minisplit. My understand is that these aren't sufficient for extreme cold climates... and I don't really understand what they are
• Radiant tube. I only have 9 foot ceilings, so I don't think it's an option.
• Unit heater. Inefficient, but I can turn it completely off or up to a higher temp very easily/quickly
• Heat pump. I've always heard of them... but have no clue what they do
• Basic forced air furnace as used in a home. Why wouldn't this work? I could run minimal ducting and heat both levels...

Any help would be great. I have basically talked myself out of in floor radiant because of boiler cost (unless I have bad info) but I will also need an option for heating the second floor at some point (hence the forced air furnace).

Thanks

 

[Crazy68Dart]

Check out my "Radiant vs Everything else" thread... haha.

Minisplit is a type of heat pump configuration. Heat pump is all electric.

How is your insulation?

I like electric (heat pump might be nice, but I am talking coil/forced air). However electric is expensive to operate. But it is an easy install, and 100% efficient. I had a smaller garage and a small 220v electric heater and it worked great.

If you have natural gas, that is probably the obvious choice for fuel. Radiant is nice, and I am on the fence too.

 

[Fueler]

I am a radiant tube fan but you do have low ceilings.
Look a little deeper into the tubes. Seems to me when I was researching this years ago there were tubes suitable for low ceilings.

Whatever you choose I would go with something that does NOT have an exposed flame. Your short space and wood fine dust makes that more than critical.

 

[bzinsky]

I'd go with the traditional forced air furnace.

Radiant has one thing it's best at, maintaining a temperature. Not ideal for a space you want to come in, kick on the heat and start working.

 

[Fueler]

Another possibility would be a MagicPak through the wall unit. Heat and cool and is ductwork compatible.
Something like this with gas or electric heat choices.
https://www.younits.com/hwc-80-95-a...-electric-cooling-packaged-thru-the-wall.html

 

[Randy in Maine]

Well I have propane fired radiant floor heat in my 40' x 28' x 12' garage/woodworking shop and I love it. YOu are little colder than me though. I keep mine about 50-55º all winter which is perfect (and dust free) even when finishing wood projects. My boiler is in the house 20' away so I just pump warm water out to the garage. I did that to remove the chance of explosion in the shop. I think the Baxi condensing boiler was about $3k installed.

If I had an upstairs and wanted to be colder/warmer, I would likely consider either 2 zones with radiant heat/radiators up there or go with one zone at the 50-55º mark. 1/2" O2 barrier pex in the concrete 1' linear foot of pex per square foot.

If I were you I would make it as well insulated and with as little infiltration as you can. I used SIPs but conventional framing with spray foam is about the same cost I would guess. 2" of rigid foam under the concrete floor is about $1 per square foot.

 

[tfinniii]

In your area a serious slab insulating would be required and deep enough on sides to make ground heat work for your shop. You could use gas heat boiler with temp controls for slab and forced air exchange heaters.

 

[GYPSY400]

I have the pex installed into my slab .. Then I got sticker shock when getting quotes on a gas boiler.. Anywhere from 7k to 12k.. And all they have to do is hang the unit on the wall and plumb the manifold!! Then I found this: http://www.solartubs.com/solar-heating-packages.html

I will be going this route.. It's going to cost about 6k.. But no bill afterwards

Currently I have a ceiling hung Reznor type heater which works well.. I keep it about 10*c all the time and boost it up when I'm in there to about 16-17c.. Also a programable thermostat is nice. It will be my secondary heat source once the radiant is finished ( when the door opens)

Radiant heat or not INSULATE THE SLAB! This is key to holding a constant temperature.. The cement acts as a big heat sink , so boosting the temperature from 40*f to 60*f is not a big deal. If it's not insulated, it will be like standing on an ice cube all the time. My garage, even with the heat off a few days gets cool, but doesn't feel chilly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk