Rafter Type
- Thread starter Supa Dexta
- Start date
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
We usually call that extra work.
But, it's probably because the rafters needed to be cut at an angle smaller than 45 degrees, and the saw didn't go that far.
But, it's probably because the rafters needed to be cut at an angle smaller than 45 degrees, and the saw didn't go that far.
The Tool Tyrant
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I would call that a "rafter is too short, now what?"...seriously.
PWC Repair
Well-known member
Interesting answers, I'm more a glass half full type of guy. I'll call that "problem solved".......continue on!
RivennHewn
Well-known member
I’m going to go along with Kay
billconner
Well-known member
I think I would call it a header. I suppose jack rafter header would be a little more accurate.
OP
Supa Dexta
Active member
K'ledgeBldr
Well-known member
Not sure there is a “name”. But as it was explained to me a long time ago, when you have unequal length jack rafters (due to the different pitches) you end up with unequal lengths of the hip rafter between jacks. In order to “equalize” the pressure on the hip (so it basically stays straight) those short blocks are used. Think of it as an “outrigger” like used for barge rafters.
billconner
Well-known member
I believe kaymccampbell had the reason correct for the op photo - not 90 degrees and bevel greater than 45.
The Tool Tyrant
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Back in my previous life, I cut many conventional roofs. You can create cheek cuts greater than a 45° by either making the plumb cut first, then say you need a 60° cheek cut, you then subtract the needed angle from 90° (90 minus 60 = 30) set your saw table to 30° and make your cheek cut by placing the table against the 90° plumb cut. The line of cut is the 90° corner between the plumb cut and side of the rafter...or, buy this http://www.bigfootsaws.com/bigfootproduct/swing-tables/
billconner
Well-known member
I'm sure it can be done but tough to guide a 12' 2x8 through a table saw at that angle. I thought the header solution was rather elegant.
The Tool Tyrant
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Worm drive Skilsaw NOT a table saw
billconner
Well-known member
My apologies.
Two square cuts and one easy bevel for the Jack and header sure sounds simpler and faster.
Two square cuts and one easy bevel for the Jack and header sure sounds simpler and faster.
The Tool Tyrant
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I probably made it sound more difficult than it really is Bill. I would use that method if I only had a few cuts >45°, other wise it was my Bigfoot 10". After 32 years of framing, I still miss the smell of fresh Douglas Fir in the morning!
The Bean
Well-known member
Simple diagram...
The Bean
Well-known member
Detailed diagram.
The Bean
Well-known member
I don't see the lazy header used anywhere. Where was the framer from? Sweden, Amish, Russian?
billconner
Well-known member
None of your diagrams show other than square corners, opposite jacks 90 degrees to each other in projected plan. Someone figured out a new way of framing.
OP
Supa Dexta
Active member
Well it made for some conversation anyways.
Zeke
Well-known member
Bringing this back for a moment I did a roof (actually 2) that did not have the hip at 45 º. True that rafter layout gets "jacked up" doing this. but the other thing is that if you don't extend the length of one side, the facia won't line up (if used). It makes for a nice looking roof line in some circumstances, but good luck in finding a carpenter that can understand this.
The Tool Tyrant
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If you REALLY want to learn how to cut conventional roofs, THIS is the guy, and this... https://books.google.com/books/about/Roof_Framing.html?id=NsqOwnqr7UIC is his book. Trust me, I know from personal experience... I totally wore out my first copy! Marshall Gross IS a MASTER roof cutter.
OP
Supa Dexta
Active member
Renegade1LI
Well-known member
That's a gettr done with what we have rafter. I love looking at old farm buildings, lots of interesting construction techniques.