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Railroad Jack AO Norton

troutrod

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I have this Jack dated 1918. I’m trying to take it apart but can’t get the bottom off. The research I’ve done shows it being threaded but this one will not budge. I’ve soaked it and heated it with poor results.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
 

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Private Lugnutz

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Soaked it in what? I would stand it up in a few inches of Evaporust for 48 hours. Then I would work that seam open carefully in opposing spots with wedges or anything wedge shaped that will fit in there. Old feeler gauge blades. Whatever. A little careful separation there might translate to some separation where the rust has likely locked the threads up. Maybe some tapping with a soft blow hammer. Good luck.
 
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troutrod

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Soaked in PB blaster. So it it threaded not pressed based on your comments. I would assume conventional threads as well?
Thank you so much for the help.
I will continue the process after I get some evaporust.
 

Private Lugnutz

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So it it threaded not pressed based on your comments. I would assume conventional threads as well?
Just so we're not misunderstanding each other..., you'd like to get to the innards of that jack and you can't get that plate off the bottom, which you think is screwed on. If it won't budge because the threads are rusted tight together, Evaporust will help much more than any conventional penetrating oil. It completely removes rust without fail. Warning: it will completely strip ANY oxide, including paint.
 
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troutrod

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Yes that is my objective. Remove the bottom plate to get to all the moving parts. I think it’s a screw base based on my research but I’m not certain which is part of my question.
I’m hoping to pick up some Evaporust today or tomorrow.
Thanks again to all for the help.
I will keep you posted as I progress.
 

Shiftless

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Like Private Lugnutz said, soak in Evaporust for a while. Coupla days, whatever it takes. Evaporust will convert rust to carbon but it won’t eat away good metal like acid does so there is no danger of overdoing it.
I use it a lot. Another option is electrolysis. That has worked for me in situations with stuck parts where the Evaporust didn’t.
 
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troutrod

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Perfect
Thanks guys appreciate the guidance here. My neighbor was bringing this to the dumps. Couldn’t bear to watch such a great piece go to the land fill.
 

Shiftless

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Nice save Troutrod.
After you get it freed up and clean, post a pic and keep it handy. You never know when you’ll need to lift up a boxcar or something. :)
 

4xdog

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...Evaporust will convert rust to carbon ...

Umm... No. That's alchemy.

I believe Evapo-rust's mechanism is to reduce the iron oxide (Fe2O3) to iron sulfide (FeS) by donating electrons from a sulfide/sulfite reducing agent. My best guess it that the black stuff in spent Evapo-rust is iron sulfide.
 

Private Lugnutz

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I think it’s a screw base based on my research but I’m not certain which is part of my question.
Have you found the patent number? I did a quick search on the date, including the 1918 USPTO gazette, and oddly couldn't find any jack patented on that date. While minor features often change between patent award and production, if you have the patent, the drawing may show it. Is there a notch like the one you're showing on the opposite side? If so, I'd be inclined to think your research on it being threaded is good. I have to say, I'd also be tempted to tap that notch in the loosen direction with a drift and hammer. And if there's an opposite notch, lay a flat file in both notches and tap on that in the loosen direction. Maybe save yourself some bucks.
 
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Shiftless

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Umm... No. That's alchemy.

I believe Evapo-rust's mechanism is to reduce the iron oxide (Fe2O3) to iron sulfide (FeS) by donating electrons from a sulfide/sulfite reducing agent. My best guess it that the black stuff in spent Evapo-rust is iron sulfide.
Thanks for pointing that out. You’re right, I should have said it converts rust to a black residue that is easily rinsed off with running water and a brush or even better, a low power pressure washer. I’ve been using Evaporust for years.
 

4xdog

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Thanks for pointing that out. You’re right, I should have said it converts rust to a black residue that is easily rinsed off with running water and a brush or even better, a low power pressure washer. I’ve been using Evaporust for years.
That's 100%!
 
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troutrod

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Private
I haven’t found a patent number yet. Here is a photo of the date
There is a slot on the bottom that I put a flat file in and tried to tap. NG so far.
Tks again
 

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4xdog

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I haven't found any US patents issued on August 27, 1918. That was a Tuesday, the traditional day new patents are published (although I don't know if that convention was in place back then).

It's probably a US letters patent, but that's not guaranteed.
 
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troutrod

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Here are a few other numbers I found on the crank mech.
Thanks for the help
 

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troutrod

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4xdog
That’s impressive intel on the patents. Do you mind if I ask how you became so intimate with the process?!!!!
Tks
 

Farmer J.

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There is a museum in Quebec in the house of A O Norton, maybe they would know something about how it comes apart?


Other info:

and a 1920 article:
Norton Bridge and Track Jacks 1921_0000.jpg
 

Private Lugnutz

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I haven't found any US patents issued on August 27, 1918. That was a Tuesday, the traditional day new patents are published (although I don't know if that convention was in place back then).
It was in place back then, and there were hundreds of patents issued on that date, but none for a jack that I could see, as I mentioned in post #12. Link to the 1918 report is here if you want to scout around. These reports are indexed in alphabetical order by patentee name but also invention. It's possible that the patent relates to a mechanism that the jack uses, which may be why it's not indexed under "jack", but I'm not going to search through all the August 27 patents to try to find it.
 

crguy

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Plus 1 for Kroil in this situation. Evaporust isn't designed to get into that joint to free it up. You're likely to need some way to clamp the body of the jack to keep it from turning and make up something to engage that notch in the base so you can put some real turning force on it with a long bar. Heating the outer housing close to the joint will also help it to expand slightly to let the Kroil in.
 
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troutrod

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Thank you,I haven’t gotten to picking up anything yet hopefully this week.
Thanks for the insight.
 
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