Rain gutter replacement TOY Land Cruiser

[BarryWells]

I''ve a late eighties that was "painted" a year ago and the rust is exploding where the morons "repaired" the rain gutter thingie. You guys ever make them with a bead roller or something ?

 

[thehighwayman]

Shave it. I've got a similar issue with my 73 ford crew cab. Luckily it hasn't gotten into the drip rail yet, but the sheetmetal on the roof skin that is spot welded to it is gone. Maybe break it, and then roll it if it is doubled up.
Don't forget the seam sealer!

 

[4xdog]

If it's not perforated, I'd quick like a bunny treat it with POR-15, fill as needed, and topcoat. POR-15 is a b*tch to work with, but man, does that coating perform.

Fixing in place would be a LOT easier than trying to make and weld a new gutter.



(... and we like old 'Cruisers, especially 60-series. Post up some pix!)

 

[MP&C]

Pictures would help so we can see the damage, but drip rail can be fabricated:

Spent last week in Rock Hill SC for a metalshaping workshop. My project was going to be making a section of drip rail to match a section cut from a vehicle.. I was going to use the bead roller but any attempt showed distortion was difficult to control. Just to clarify where this is situated, this is welded along the outside of the A-pillar with the tail comprising part of the windshield opening.

After looking at some of the home made Pullmax dies others had brought, I think eliminating the deformity can be best addressed by making dies for the Lennox (Pullmax). Here's what we started with, a section of 18 gauge (to match OEM) and folded the lip that will form the outside face of the drip rail..

Next, a die is used to add the joggle seen at the bottom, and a clamped-on guide prevents the flange from wanting to move skyward.

Next operation is to add the slight bit of radius to the front face of the drip rail. Here's our die configuration for this step..

Shown here with the original cross-section piece...

Our first task tonight was to modify die set #2 from last night so it would also tighten up the reverse joggle.

Next, Die set #3 for adding the remaining folds. A partial bend is done in the magnetic brake, and then the die set forms them more accurately.



Before:

After....

Comparison:

I like this method much better, looks to be more easily repeatable with better consistency.

 

[MP&C]

Simpler version:


Here's the bend process:

These were all done in the apron brake, with the last one accomplished using the clamping section of the brake to flatten out the bend. Next, a mark is made to cut the "tail" to size, and this cut will be done using a 3" x 1/32 cutoff wheel. To prevent from cutting through into the back side, slide a piece of scrap under the "tail".

Once the tail is cut this short, we'll need to resort to the press brake with some flattening dies to compress the fold flat, mimmicking the factory original. This could also be done using a good flat body hammer.

Then it's back to the apron brake, and with the newly made fold facing out, make a slight bend to form the curved surface you see on the outside of the gutter.

Then the rest of the bends, and a trail fit.

 

[Fcvapor05]

If it's a J70, making drip rails for it is going to be difficult. The drip rail segments are curved in both planes- even if you get the profile right (which is possible but time consuming) you're going to spend ages bending and then fixing the profile and then fixing the profile and then bending and you get it.. Your easiest options are going to be to find one in a junkyard and cut the drip rails off of it, or to shave them.