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Raintight Connection For EMT To Disconnect

paulsomlo

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In the attached picture, I'd like to come out of the fascia just to the right of my lineset with a conduit body, then drop down with EMT to a disconnect mounted to the post to the right of the mini split. I'm thinking another conduit body attached vertically to the side of the disconnect. But how do I keep the rain out of where the EMT enters the vertically oriented conduit body? I know there are raintight compression connectors for EMT, but there's some question as to mating with a conduit body for rigid with regards to straight vs. NPT threads. And I don't see how a conduit body with EMT fittings will keep out the rain. Is this a job for PVC or some other conduit system?
attachment (12).jpg
 
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mm08822

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Also use a raintite emt fitting.

After assembly, run a thin bead of clear silicone over the exposed threads and top of wp con. Thin enough that you won't see it but provides a barrier.
 

Firebrick43

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PVC gets brittle in the sun and will usually give up the ghost and crack in above ground application before EMT rust out. A small hole in the bottom of any dip will take care of condensation.

Silicone caulk will usually become unadhered in a few years, I have found sealing with butyl rubber tape, aka "coax seal" or several other brand names, will last a lot longer around connections that really need to remain water tight.
 

nadogail

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For a Rain Tight entrance to a panel, I would go to an Electrical Supply house and ask for a Myer’s Hub.
I may be mistaken on the spelling but that is what it sounds like.
 
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paulsomlo

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Also use a raintite emt fitting.

After assembly, run a thin bead of clear silicone over the exposed threads and top of wp con. Thin enough that you won't see it but provides a barrier.
The raintite emt fitting would presumably screw into a conduit body made for rigid? The issue there, is that rigid male is tapered, whereas emt threads are not; not sure how an inspector would feel about that. There's lots of back and forth on the internet on that subject.

An ironclad solution would be a 90 deg bend where I come into the disconnect with a straight raintite for emt. A 90 deg raintite for emt would be better, because I could just drop down without a bend, but I don't see that they're available.
 

sparky 1971

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Looked these up - they're apparently for rigid and IMC.
An EMT connector will screw into a Myers hub and it's the correct way to enter an outdoor enclosure through the top but it looks like ****. Just use an LB into the side of the box, using a chase ****** to connect it and be done with it. You may want to silicone around the mating surface of the disconnect, but there should be drain holes already in the disconnect that will allow anything wet to run out and if there aren't, drill a 1/8" hole in the bottom of it.
 
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paulsomlo

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An EMT connector will screw into a Myers hub and it's the correct way to enter an outdoor enclosure through the top but it looks like ****. Just use an LB into the side of the box, using a chase ****** to connect it and be done with it. You may want to silicone around the mating surface of the disconnect, but there should be drain holes already in the disconnect that will allow anything wet to run out and if there aren't, drill a 1/8" hole in the bottom of it.
And how to handle where the EMT enters the top of the LB? A raintite EMT connector? A plain old EMT compression connector, or a rigid close ****** into the LB into a raintite EMT to rigid female transition fitting?
 
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paulsomlo

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If you're worried about it, feel free to do it another way but every single LB I've ever with EMT had a connector screwed into it and there are a lot of them out there. Some of them have even been inspected.
Leave the gasket or remove it?
 

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sparky 1971

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Take it off. #1, there isn't enough surface area on the LB for it to do any good and #2 it's going to tear to hell and back before you get the connector tight. The gasket is for coming out the side or bottom of a cabinet and using the locknut on the inside. You can also get rid of the locknut.
 

wyliesdiesels

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For a Rain Tight entrance to a panel, I would go to an Electrical Supply house and ask for a Myer’s Hub.
I may be mistaken on the spelling but that is what it sounds like.
i would not enter the top of a box unless you absolutely had to (main service panel riser is one example). coming in the side would prevent any moisture or water from dripping on the energized parts and causing corrosion.
 
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