Raising 4 post Atlas 8000 corners
- Thread starter andrewls
- Start date
I would lower the ramps and put a floor jack under the front or rear cross braces. You could probably do the same on the corner of the ramps too. Each corner is not that heavy. Of course don’t have a car on it at the time.
Just realize that when you’ve raised the overall height, your ramp approach will be steeper because the lift ramps won’t be on the ground.
Just realize that when you’ve raised the overall height, your ramp approach will be steeper because the lift ramps won’t be on the ground.
finn
Well-known member
Look at how the dolly kit available for most four post lifts work. Basically a fulcrum pin that lets the lift self jack the osts off the ground so you can roll the whole thing around.
You should be able to rig something similar, sans wheels, to just lift the legs.
You should be able to rig something similar, sans wheels, to just lift the legs.
Thank you. I will use the center cross base as lifting point. WRT the ramps, I have considered that. I am considering replacing the existing heavy ramps with lighter aluminum ramps anyway, so I will order longer ramps. Thanks again.
Thank you.
racecougar
Well-known member
That will slack the cables, but won't raise the post off the ground. You'd need to use a wheel kit, or something of the like, to lift the posts.
AffableCurmudgeon
Well-known member
If you know anyone with a wheel kit, borrow it for an hour. It will make your life very easy.
Not sure about the Atlas, but on mine, with the cross beams lifted (and providing slack in the cables), and locks disengaged, I can lift each cornerpost with not too much grunting, except for the one with the motor--would remove that first. Don't know if the wheel dollies will get you "a few inches". Are any anchors involved? Any chance you can get a 2nd person to help place the blocks while you lift, or vice-versa?
I bet you could also cut a couple wood keys to fit snugly in the lock plate holes that would act as stops to lock the posts to the cross beams...so you could jack up the cross beams one at a time and lift the posts along with them. Or find a couple large metal U-clips to do the same thing.
I bet you could also cut a couple wood keys to fit snugly in the lock plate holes that would act as stops to lock the posts to the cross beams...so you could jack up the cross beams one at a time and lift the posts along with them. Or find a couple large metal U-clips to do the same thing.
I did try to jack the cross beams up and the locks did not engaged as Racecougar indicated. I found that if I raise lift to highest position and jack up the cross brackets with a combo hydraulic jack and 4x4 post, that will raise legs. I have the dolly but doubt I will get the leverage to lift it 3 1/2” I need for blocks to slide under. But will try that, as it is easier than jacking up.
All input is very much appreciate!
All input is very much appreciate!
finn
Well-known member
Tru vice grips on the posts to limit movement of the ramps.
Be careful, though.
Be careful, though.
That's why I said you need some way to affix the crossbeams to the posts. The locks don't work in that direction, but if you put something solid in the lock plates it'll act kind of like a shear pin. Bump up the lift till the trolleys are just below the blocks, and then jack up the cross beams. The corner posts will ride up on the blocks. Do 2 posts at a time. This is totally off trail, so if you're not totally confident in it, then don't do it.
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It occurs to me the lock plates will probably flex, as they'll be in compression and they're relatively thin. They wouldn't be lifting that much weight, but keep an eye on them so they don't flex too much. I assume you have a nut on both sides of the threaded rod at the top of each lock plate that's sandwiching the cornerpost top plate.
Stick-man
Well-known member
I have to do this same thing to my BendPak. My new floor is 1 1/4" low on one side of the front of the lift. (Part of it was beyond control, part was because I "saved money" on my concrete.) I am glad I read this post. I will try to block the crossbeam and raise that one corner. I forget the numbers on my other three posts, so I will either use a pry bar to put shim under or do the same and lift each corner.
If your lift is or will be anchored down, I suggest using steel shim instead of wood. I would think it would be difficult to get it plumb since wood will compress.
If your lift is or will be anchored down, I suggest using steel shim instead of wood. I would think it would be difficult to get it plumb since wood will compress.
racecougar
Well-known member
That would be atypical.
Really? For which lift? I know mine have them. The Atlas manual shows them. Without a nut on the underside of the plate the friction in the trolleys could cause the lock plates to move upward every time you raise the lift, which would kind of defeat their purpose.
mcj115
Well-known member
I would raise the ramp to a height that you could easily fit a jack under. Then I would cut a 2x4 that would fit under the top cap of the post and the cross member. Once the 2x4 is wedged in there then just jack it up at that corner, shim under it, then move to the next corner and repeat.
strength_and_power
Well-known member
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- Apr 26, 2015
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Prybar, thin shims and progressively thicker wood. Given the size of a lift, I’d raise one corner 1”, rinse and repeat at each corner until all are 1” then repeat until you get to your desired height.
Get a real pry bar. Like this.
I use one daily for setting 3-7,000# safes solo
Get a real pry bar. Like this.
I use one daily for setting 3-7,000# safes solo
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RWorth
Well-known member
They don't weigh much, farm jack and a clamp on the post, short chain. Oh and you don't need to secure the block, just bolt threw it.
racecougar
Well-known member
Hopefully the OP has it handled by now, as this thread is from last April, which is also the last time the OP was on this site.