bigbrand0105
Active member
I would like to raise my 4 post lift maybe 4 inches has anybody ever put blocks under the pads of the lift to get a bit more height? Anybody see a problem in doing so?
Raising a 4 post hoist
- Thread starter bigbrand0105
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Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Yes, I've done it with some wood blocks built up from 2x6 construction lumber. I had no issues with stability, but as LXCam said you may have to deal with the ramps - just put some blocks under the tail end of them. If you're putting a lowered vehicle on the lift it may also require some more thought so you don't bottom out.
BruceMc
Well-known member
If this is a permanent fix, you're probably better off doing it the way much machinery and posts are bedded, by pouring a pad under it with precision/non-shrink grout.
An example --
An example --
I would think you could do a taller version of this:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4841733&postcount=292
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4841733&postcount=292
BruceMc
Well-known member
That's really similar to how I did mine, and finished it up with some glossy black on the grout. In my case the concrete crew put in so much slope to the floor drain that I ran out of adjustment in bringing the runways level. The floor drains well, but otherwise...
I have three 1 inch thick steel plates under one leg, and one under another. I could take some pictures if interested. I have about a 6 inch height difference between my highest and lowest leg due to a slope towards a drain. The lift has 3" of adjustment on the ladders, hence another 3" of plates needed. There are holes in the plates for the anchors, and longer anchors.
logical
Well-known member
I do development work with structural composite materials and had the lab guys save left over 12 x 18 flat test plaques. I had 3+ inches of slope and significant slope even within each pad. I used a wet saw to cut down to 12 x 12 squares and some smaller shims, pre- drilled for the anchors, did a dry stack to get the right level and then restocked with a little epoxy between layers. Overkill and time consuming yes, but 100% free.
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Mine looks exactly like that, just three steel plates instead.I do development work with structural composite materials and had the lab guys save left over 12 x 18 flat test plaques. I had 3+ inches of slope and significant slope even within each pad. I used a wet saw to cut down to 12 x 12 squares and some smaller shims, pre- drilled for the anchors, did a dry stack to get the right level and then restocked with a little epoxy between layers. Overkill and time consuming yes, but 100% free.
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OP
bigbrand0105
Active member
nice thanks for the ideas!!
gandyj
Well-known member
I used two 2 x 12 squares nailed together under each foot to get my lift up high so I could walk under it without bending over and I'm 5'10.
OP
bigbrand0105
Active member
Have finally gotten a chance to dig back into this. Think I am going to cut some 12" x 11 3/4" squares out of a 2 x 12 and glue / screw 4 together which should net me another 6" in height. I will secure by setting some 1/2" x 9" or so rods into the concrete so I can snug down accordingly. I found Discount ramps offer a 12" wide x 5' long Alum. ramp which should allow me to easily pull my car on and off. All in all I think it will be worth the $400 investment. Anybody see any pitfalls in this? I am a little nervous going 6" but that is what I need to stop ramming my forehead into the lift. I am 6' 4"...... Thoughts are appreciated.
akdiesel
Well-known member
I just finished raising mine 6" with no issues. I took 6" x 1/4" flat bar and made two 12" right angle bends and then welded them together to make the squares. I also put another section of the flat bar to support the post itself and welded it to the inside as well. I then welded rebar and tubing pockets into the corners to allow for bolting to the floor. The rebar is to secure the concrete to the risers. Filled them with concrete in addition. Solid blocks and maybe overkill, but me and my equipment are under this lift. It clears the skid steer and forklift now.
BruceMc
Well-known member
A single sheet of 1 1/8" would yield more than enough squares (8 for each corner) and would be far more dimensionally stable in the long run (no splitting). In fact, a sheet of 3/4" would be just right for 6" (8 x 0.75").
OP
bigbrand0105
Active member
Great idea with the Plywood, did not think of that. I am going to home depot tonight!! Thanks guys always great to get others insight on this stuff.
OP
bigbrand0105
Active member
Built the plywood risers over the weekend and have all of the holes drilled through the blocks into the concrete. Last piece of the puzzle before actually moving the lift is addressing the ramps. I have a Shelby GT 500 that sits about 1.25" lower than stock guessing right around 4.5" so I think I can get by with 6' longs rams to make the almost 10" climb to get onto the lift. I have found some really nice aluminum ramps that fit the bill by my concern is most of them just have a 90 deg. lip that would fit into the steel bar that is bolted to the cross brace of the lift. Basically the piece that allows the "stock" ramp to hang from the lift. Do you guys think that would support the weight of the car? A little concerning...... What have you guys done to address the issue of the ramps?