What size are your posts? In a similar situation I added a block to lengthen the posts,. My posts were 4 x 6, I used 3' 2 x 6s glued and screwed over the seams. One on each side between the rim boards. Use good construction adhesive, not elmers glue. I also added a little bit of extra bracing between posts to tie every thing together a little better.
I was looking at something similar this afternoon. I was thinking of sistering another post to the short ones to lengthen them. I would then add another band board above the existing one to get my height.
I'm trying to picture this with one side lower than the other and then I try figure out how somebody did not notice this ?
If you raise the short side to match the taller side, won't you have to replace the exterior metal panels also ?
Lord knows that I can't draw a straight line to save my life without CAD. When I first walked into the building when we looked at the property, I saw that some of the girts (horizontal boards) on the rear wall weren't level, but I really didn't think much of it at the time. It wasn't until I started measuring for the garage doors that I saw how far off it was. This was a mennonite church barn raising ... maybe they should have hired amish?! I think it will be more noticeable once the concrete is in and there is a truly level floor.
I'll definitely have to reside one side. There is enough damaged metal and wavy screw lines that bother me that I'm not too concerned about doing that. There are enough pole building suppliers near me that sourcing the metal isn't a problem.
The simplest way to check for all of the "band boards" being leve is a water level. Cheap and accurate.
Questions.
Are the "posts" true posts (round like telephone posts), or rectangular (4x6) solid or laminated ?
Are the "band boards" bolted through the posts, notched in or ?
The posts are 6x6 square posts and the band boards are nailed to the posts. The band boards are level from the front to the back; but the left side is higher than the right. It's as if they put a level line on the posts and set the top of the band board on the line on the right side and the bottom of the band board on the line on the left side.
The "best" method to attach the beams to the post is to notch them in or place them on top with a bracket.
If I was going to add 10-12" to the top of the post I would use a 2' piece of 1/2" all-thread screwed into a slightly undersized hole through the addition ionto the orih=ginal post.
This was my first thought to lengthen the post. Then I was going to add a brace across the joint just for a little extra stability. Construction isn't necessarily my area of expertise but I'm glad to see that my idea wasn't too far fetched.
How do you lose so much in door height with a 10" cut ?
You can order a door 11' high or even in-between sizes if you want.
That is another option that I'm considering. If I went with an 11' door I should still be able to get my trailer inside. I've got to take some measurements to make sure that I still have enough height for the lift. At some point, I'll have a 4 post so that I can stack cars for parking.
Thanks for all of the suggestions. I'll keep documenting the progress in my build thread. Concrete first then to address the roof issue.
