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Raising Ceiling + Renovating Block Garage

msd163

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Joined
Nov 12, 2023
Messages
2
Hi everyone, this is my first post here, but I've spent hours combing through these forums to help me with my garage project. I've done my research, but this would be the biggest construction project I've worked on, so I totally understand if the best suggestion would be to consult an engineer for proper plans before starting.

So here are the current specs of my garage:

CMU walls
13'6" x 27'

Rafters are made of 2x6's and are spaced 24" OC. Roof pitch is 9/12. Rafter span is 81" (6'9")
Rafter ties are 2x4's, but are unevenly spaced and some are sistered or even quadrupled up where the storage loft is located. About half are 48" OC and half are 24"OC. Hopefully this can be better appreciated in the pictures.
Current height to the bottom of the rafter ties is 98.5", and height from the bottom of the rafter ties to the roof peak is 68"
Ground snow loads in my area are about 25 psf (Central NJ)

I'd like to build a golf simulator in the back of the garage, so I would ideally be raising the rafter ties (would be used as ceiling joists) to 120". This would still keep the ceiling joists within the lower 1/3 of height from top of the wall to the roof peak. Once the ceiling joist height was increased, I planned to finish the garage similar to how one might finish a basement. For insulation I'd be using 1/2 inch foam board insulation attached to the CMU walls, followed by framing a 2x4 wall with fiberglass batts or Rockwool insulation. I've already placed vented soffits on the exterior, so I would install baffles for ventilation into the attic (uninhabitable) and out the roof via a ridge vent or other roof vents. I plan on removing the old subpanel and installing a new one with the new wiring running behind drywall or slatwalls. I'm not sure what would be best for flooring. For heating and cooling I was going to just use a space heater in winter and window AC unit in summer. Because this would be a semi-conditioned space, are there any moisture concerns that I'd be introducing, and what might be ways to resolve any issues?

My biggest questions are with changing the structural integrity of the roof. Because I would be adding weight supported by the current rafters, I was planning to sister the existing 24" OC 2x4's rafters with 2x8's of Douglas Fir #2 based on 20psf dead load, 30psf snow load and a 0.67 adjustment for rafter span because I'm raising the rafter ties and using them as ceiling joists. For the ceiling joists I would be using 2x6s of Douglas Fir #2 attaching them to the new rafters every 24".

I appreciate anybody who took the time to read this whole post. If I'm overlooking anything or if you have any suggestions, please let me know.
 

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billconner

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Jul 20, 2021
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Thousand Islands NYS
I think your plan is we'll thought through and sound. I didn't look up in tables but if I did I'd check to be sure 2x6 sistered to rafters weren't enough. The 2x8s do make 6" batts in ceiling with vent baffles seem like a good match though.

If you put in a good vapor barrier in ceiling, I think you could get away with gable vents for high venting, rather than ridge or other in roof. Just an option.
 
Last edited:

Bert_

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Dec 24, 2016
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9,856
Location
NW Iowa
I think you actually have a sound understanding. Better than most of the posts I read about doing this.

I think you have a good plan!

Personally I would have a hard time covering up block with drywall. Block is so durable and drywall, well, it's drywall... You already touched on the insulation benefit.
 
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msd163

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Nov 12, 2023
Messages
2
Appreciate the replies. Was hoping I could get away with gable vents and maybe other roof vents as I wasn't too keen on installing a ridge vent. I'll have to double check the charts to see if 2x6's would work to sister the rafters.

I do agree about the durability of the block walls. I don't hate the appearance of them either. Insulation was the main driving factor so that it's a more usable space all seasons.

As far as sistering the rafters goes, are there any specific guidelines for attachment? If they're running the full length I assume I wouldn't any adhesive, and was planning on staggering structural screws. Not sure how frequently to stagger or how to offset. Also wondering if I could get by with a bunch of 16d nails instead.
 
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billconner

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If the new rafters fit, I don't think it matters much structurally if they are sistered or installed midway between the existing. But a few nails would be fine if sistered.
 

Bert_

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If the new rafters fit, I don't think it matters much structurally if they are sistered or installed midway between the existing. But a few nails would be fine if sistered.
They have to get nailed to the existing. Unless you plan on nailing the sheeting down to the new rafters.
 
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