Raising Garage Door Runners/Tracks

[Rich_R]

Hi all

I'd like to install a 2-post lift in my new garage, but before I do that, I need to shift the garage door runners/tracks to hug the ceiling for that extra height.

From what I've read, i need to add additional vertical tracks (or cut and use a portion from the horizontal end), new track brackets, new drums, new cables and wall mounted opener (e.g Liftmaster 8500).

I've taken some photo's of the current setup, is there anything else I need to consider?

and lastly, any recommendations on where I can order the parts (in Canada)?

Thanks!

 

[The Cobbler]

There's a lot to consider in your project.
as far as I know, virtually everything is different from springs, track, etc.
You might end up cheaper just replacing the door.
I have good luck with Garaga Doors. good product & they stand behind it .

 

[nadogail]

As a minimum, the cables that raise the door will need to reach the door from any modified pivot point.

 

[matt_i]

What s the total distance of additional Zheight in the horizontal track?

Less than 1 more turn on the sheave (pi * od) then you might be able to get away with it and not change sheaves or springs. Just need a short piece of track and some button head screws to adapt it to new bracketry.

Agree the cables need to be longer as a minimum.

 

[Rich_R]

Thanks for the replies, I'll go do some measuring!

 

[Crazyhorse]

I recently did this on the back roll up door on my toy shop. the previous owner had it so you couldn't open it with a vehicle on the lift, kinda sucked, especially when I pulled a toy back in and forgot to close it, luckily caught myself before damage. I ordered parts from these guys, they were reasonably priced, and were able to supply everything needed. drums, springs and cables are all different, as more of the door weight is hanging vertical when opened in this application.

www.ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instructions/garage-door-high-lift-conversion.php

I'll post some photos of mine when I get home this evening.

 

[HotrodHR]

You have a lot more to consider. Having install the highlift in my shop do yourself a favor and spend some time at DDM Garage Doors: https://ddmgaragedoors.com

There are DIY videos, instructions, etc. on all the steps involved and probably most important help calculating what parts you need and a good place to order them from.

 

[CraigStu]

A friend did this 4-5 years ago. He contacted a local company who helped him design and spec it. One thing to keep in mind is the door will never go horizontal like your current door. As each section hits the flat the door gets lighter and lighter. W/ your new tracks the motor will be lifting the entire weight of the door the whole time. So you might need an upgraded motor.

 

[iamrfixit]

DDM High lift conversion

Much more to it than just changing the tracks.

When properly engineered, the door will be balanced and the springs still do most of the work. A standard jackshaft opener will have no problem opening the door.

 

[Crazyhorse]

Looks like we all used the same company for parts. They were super helpful through the whole process.

 

[R6 Racer]

When I vaulted the ceiling in my garage I had to address my garage door opener issue.
I didn't think it was that complicated. New cables, sheaves,(whatever they are) tracks... (maybe, in my case, ignorance is bliss?)

All I did was to cut the bottom of the curved piece of track on an angle. I took out a small wedge shape that was maybe 3/4" on the front & tapered it down to nothing at the back. Remounting the curved pieces had the back of the top track real close to the original ceiling. Shortened up the mounting hardware & bolted up the top track on an angle. (the pic was right when I did it & I have since finished the ceiling & made proper mounting brackets for everything) I used the original "central" type opener & mounted it on the same angle as the top rails. attaching it to the new vaulted ceiling. Oh ya, also had to reverse the top door rollers so the door was closed tight at the top. Before that the door had a problem closing at the last 2 or 3 inches along the top. I think it was to tight till I did the flip.

Cost Zero!
And it works. I don't know if its going to fu*k anything up but for now it works just fine. I have tested the 2 doors side by side & they open at the same speed & the motor on the raised one sounds exactly like the one working the level door. Its not straining at all opening the door. Its probably ran well over 100 cycles by now & still works great.

I don't know if this helps, but free was a good motivator for me.


Good luck with it.
Steve

 

[HotrodHR]

R6 Racer... had you added to the height of your verticle rails moving the curve close to the ceiling and then angled your horizontal rail aligned with the ceiling your opener and springs would probably not lift the door. I would have tried your method on mine but if I didn't need to raise the height of my verticles.

Just wanted to let the OP know that if he raises the curve up to the ceiling and attempts to use the original hardware that it probably will not work...

 

[R6 Racer]

Ya my situation is fairly unique. The vaulted portion of the ceiling is 8' wide with a 3/12 pitch & my doors are 10' wide x 8' tall. It just happened to work out perfect. With my original ceiling height being 10' 4&1/2" my upper rails are set at a perfect 3/12 pitch & they end & attach within an inch of the ceiling.

By angling my door tracks instead of lifting the roller mechanism it's not generating much more work than is has normally. I didn't see where the Op needed to actually lift the roller system. I was only offering a different option for the OP to consider.

Steve