I have a read a few posts on here about guys wanting to raise top of garage walls and i am in the same boat so have a few questions.I will be changing the trusses and metal on my 24 x 24 foot garage.It has 8 foot 2 x 4 walls .I would like to raise it 1 or 2 feet .Do i have to do both side walls or just one?Do i take off the 2 top plates of the side walls and join each new 10 foot 2 x 4 stud to the side of the existing wall studs or can i do every second one?Do i really have to go all the way to the bottom of the wall or could i just go half way or more?Do i have to do the same with both gable ends or can i just box frame on top of the 2 plates on the gable ends? thanks in advance
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Raising garage walls
- Thread starter waybel
- Start date
JamesW84
Well-known member
If you went half way down, that would make it hard to put batt insulation in there if you ever wanted to. I'm not an expert, but I know what i'm assuming you mean by box framing isn't allowed here because it makes a hinge point on the wall that could more easily blow over.
Would it really cost that much more to just get full length 2x4's and go from top to bottom? You need like 48-50 10 ft 2x4's. That's like $250-300. I'd just do it right.
Would it really cost that much more to just get full length 2x4's and go from top to bottom? You need like 48-50 10 ft 2x4's. That's like $250-300. I'd just do it right.
transamfan
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2011
- Messages
- 79
I was faced with same. I wanted a taller building. After doing all the math, I sold my old building to someone and they took it down. So now I can build all new, taller and not have patched together walls. I believe in the end, trying to build the existing wall up will be more labor and weaker than just building a new wall. also you wont have a seam in the metal if you just replace it all with taller.
If you went half way down, that would make it hard to put batt insulation in there if you ever wanted to. I'm not an expert, but I know what i'm assuming you mean by box framing isn't allowed here because it makes a hinge point on the wall that could more easily blow over.
Would it really cost that much more to just get full length 2x4's and go from top to bottom? You need like 48-50 10 ft 2x4's. That's like $250-300. I'd just do it right.
More worried about having to take out all wires running in the walls and the box framing i mean the gable ends.Can't seen a hinge problem if 1 or 2 side walls are done with new studs but thats why i'm asking
Ret Nailbender
Active member
When my son remodeled his house, he had to have several things engineered. One item was how to raise the height of some walls. Engineers solution was to frame new walls on top of the existing and connect new and exiting top wall plates walls together with threaded rods. Do not remember the exact rod spacing, it was either 16" or 24" OC. Building the new walls and setting them in place was easy, but the all thread took a while to do.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
There are a few videos on YouTube that show people raising the garage walls as mush as 4' ! They typically raise from the bottom, but that means all the door opening and window are messed up.
The trick with anything like is 1) make sure you have adequate bracing so that the part being moved can not shift and 2) make sure you have a proper means of re-attaching that structure to the rest of the building.
The trick with anything like is 1) make sure you have adequate bracing so that the part being moved can not shift and 2) make sure you have a proper means of re-attaching that structure to the rest of the building.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Would it really cost that much more to just get full length 2x4's and go from top to bottom? You need like 48-50 10 ft 2x4's. That's like $250-300. I'd just do it right.
Good point ! Do it right !!
What would be the best way to re-attach the top plate(s) to the new studs ?
Maybe Simpson SP2 or Simpson H2A or Simpson H10S straps.
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Thanks for all the replies. Really would like to know do i have to do one side wall with new studs sistered to existing ones or both side walls.If i do one or both why could i not just box frame both gable ends?on the front of my garage i have a 9 foot garage door and a 3 foot entry door so half or more would be impossible to put new studs to the bottom plate.The rear of my garage has cabinets a large toolbox and a closet attached to the back wall so another pain to sister studs on the back wall
TractorJeff
Well-known member
I see now what you are asking.
In my opinion, you could do it the way you are thinking as I believe like you the sistered sidewalls would brace the boxed end gable additions.
In my opinion, you could do it the way you are thinking as I believe like you the sistered sidewalls would brace the boxed end gable additions.