Raising my tool chest 10"

[quadna71]

I have two Stanley Vidmar "cubes" that are connected together by butcher-block top. The top is 60"w by 30" deep and the cubes are each 30"x30" (wide and deep). My goal is to lift the entire structure about 10". This will allow for storage of items underneath as well as raise the butcher block top to a better height for working on projects without my back screaming.

Any ideas? Ideally it would be supported in 3 places - a support at each outer edge and one in the center that would support the inner sides of each cube. No cinder blocks please and I'm trying to steer clear of wood as well. Never had an issue with moisture in the garage but why tempt fate.

I don't have a welder nor much in the way of fab skills so something I can purchase would be ideal.

Thanks (first post I think!)

 

[Squashfest81]

A 2 by 10 across the back, 60 inches long and figure out 3 or 4 legs. 4 by 6’s cut to the right height, or whatever?

 

[Lynden]

Build a 3-sided box from a 4x10 Parallam Plus beam, a continuous piece across the back and three pieces extending from the back to support the sides and center. Use steel angles and lag screws on the inside to connect the pieces. Add a plywood top and cleats to keep the cabinets centered. Round over the outside corners and paint to match the cabinets.

http://www.nbslumber.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/PSL-SPEC-SHEETS-1.pdf

https://www.strongtie.com/deckconnectors_decks/ml_angle/p/ml

 

[DGersic]

I’d build the support in steel. I’d weld it, because I have a welder and need the practice. But you could assemble it with bolts.


Sent from my iPad using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[PugetDude]

I...I'm trying to steer clear of wood as well. Never had an issue with moisture in the garage but why tempt fate.

A 2 by 10 across the back, 60 inches long and figure out 3 or 4 legs. 4 by 6’s cut to the right height, or whatever?

Build a 3-sided box from a 4x10 Parallam Plus beam,

First two suggestions are exactly what you're trying to avoid...
Welcome to the GJ!

If you want to use steel, you could make a simple angle frame with six adjustable legs (two one each end, two in the middle)that would allow you to level it up before you install the cubes. I'd probably use 1-1/4" bedrail, only because I have a bunch of it I'm trying to use up- and this would be a perfect place to use it.

 

[bczygan]

I have two Stanley Vidmar "cubes" that are connected together by butcher-block top. The top is 60"w by 30" deep and the cubes are each 30"x30" (wide and deep). My goal is to lift the entire structure about 10". This will allow for storage of items underneath as well as raise the butcher block top to a better height for working on projects without my back screaming.

Any ideas? Ideally it would be supported in 3 places - a support at each outer edge and one in the center that would support the inner sides of each cube. No cinder blocks please and I'm trying to steer clear of wood as well. Never had an issue with moisture in the garage but why tempt fate.

I don't have a welder nor much in the way of fab skills so something I can purchase would be ideal.

Thanks (first post I think!)

What kind of feet are on these cubes? If they are threaded on, then get bolts to replace them, that are the same diameter and pitch, but 12" long.


Bill

 

[gunguy]

Maybe build something up using PVC https://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda...rsible-Cellular-PVC-Fascia-H120WWS2/203733425

Use PVC solvent to build it up to the thickness you want then saw it down to the dimensions you need. If you can work with wood, you can work with PVC.

Welcome to GJ.

Jim

 

[AngryBeaver]

a 2x2 box tube frame with 6" casters will get you at your 10" mark.. I did the same to my pair of lista's. the weight of both helps keeps them from moving around once tied together. I had a frame built under each one and they moved too easily. (with each having 4 casters). one 60" bench with wheels or legs on one end will make it more ridged.

I built mine as an H style frame(with the ends boxed in). one cross member to go under the center of both for extra support instead of an open rectangle frame.

 

[NUTTSGT]

You mention no wood yet have a butcher block top.

If you don't have the means to weld up a frame for it to sit on, you have one fabbed up.

If that doesn't work, build it with wood but not boxes to put the Vidmar cabinets on. Build boxes to sit on top of the Vidmars and reattach the butcher block to that. Done correctly, you could make either a cubby hole or drawers for extra storage.

 

[bad_idea]

They make a 10x10 square tube. Hit up your local steel supplier and buy a long enough piece to cut 3 pieces to run front to back. One for each side and one up the middle. IIRC vidmars have threaded holes in the runners. Drill and bolt the runners down to the square tube. Then bolt the square tube to the garage floor with some studs and it will be rock solid. I think gravity will hold it all together without being bolted down, but good enough isn't the GJ way.

 

[matt_i]

I would take some pictures & measurements to your local fab shop. Then you can purchase something from them.

 

[FJ 432]

Unistrut?

 

[snyder]

Do a thread search for a rain barrel stand. I'm sure this can be adapted to your needs. The engineering work has already been done for you.

 

[bad_idea]

I know you said you don't want wood but I have a pair of vidmars I built a wooden base for to sit flat on a very not flat concrete floor. I scribed 2x material to fit the floor in a basic frame and nailed it down to the floor (with one of those .22 nailers). Then slid the vidmars onto the frame. My frame was only 3" tall at it's tallest but I am confident you could build it taller and keep it stable. Use pressure treated against the concrete floor and put a piece of plywood on top between the pressure treated and the vidmars. The pressure treated will rust the steel, that's why you want the plywood to separate the two.

Consider this: the walls in your garage are touching the same concrete and have lasted this long.

 

[quadna71]

Thanks for all of the ideas and perspectives. I guess wood isn’t the worse idea but in my mind I pictured a steel option. But at least a wood option could be designed and built myself and not relying upon a local welder to fab up. Time to walk a few aisles in Lowe’s and see what catches my attention. Thanks again, guys.

 

[quadna71]

What kind of feet are on these cubes? If they are threaded on, then get bolts to replace them, that are the same diameter and pitch, but 12" long.





Bill

No adjustable feet on them - just the flat base with forklift slots facing front/back. I picked these up from my base’s auto hobby shop in a blind auction when they were relocating. It’s been about 9 years though since I placed them so I can’t remember if they had provisions for threaded feet or casters when I unloaded from my trailer.

 

[Marctrees]

Do a thread search for a rain barrel stand. I'm sure this can be adapted to your needs. The engineering work has already been done for you.

You beat me to it !!!!!!

 

[mrvm]

Plenty of steel angle arm sections at Lowes/HD that can be simply designed, cut and bolted together to form the base. Adding casters from the local HF will keep the project mobile. I'd repurpose some steel bed rail pieces from an old bed frame as mentioned in post #5.

 

[Marctrees]

A $20 bill will do it using wood ... leaving change for Lunch.

Fabbed by a shop will be 10x the price.

Use Wood.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

If you want casters they will elevate the wood from any possible moisture.

Not that that would be a problem anyway.. unless very frequent and for years.

Proper load bearing design, plenty Torx drive "Deck" screws, and definately yellow Glue.

Can park a F300 dually on it if done right.

Marc

 

[rburke65]

I would think,without a welder, then wood should be your first choice. But you won’t get 10” out of a 2”x10”.

 

[PugetDude]

I would think,without a welder, then wood should be your first choice. But you won’t get 10” out of a 2”x10”.

2x10 Pressure-treated box frame with a 3/4" plywood top would get you close enough...

Steel or wood, your preference, but I'd seriously consider building roll-out drawers in a 10" high kickspace.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Thanks for all of the ideas and perspectives. I guess wood isn’t the worse idea but in my mind I pictured a steel option. But at least a wood option could be designed and built myself and not relying upon a local welder to fab up. Time to walk a few aisles in Lowe’s and see what catches my attention. Thanks again, guys.

Not just any wood- PT!

 

[CJseven]

If you did go the wood base route, you could always cover the wood with some thin aluminum diamond plate or similar metal.

 

[quadna71]

Okay, sounds like wood is the way to go. I'm stacking two 6x6's with a 3/4 plywood top. So a stack on the outside, a stack in the center, another stack on the other outside and probably another stack in the back to keep it sturdy. I'll post up a picture once it's all completed. Thanks everyone for your input!

 

[rustedgoat]

Instead of raising the whole box, you could also make a raised platform that sits on top of your existing bench top. If you do more hammering vs assembling then a nice solid top would be needed. You could also do it just to see if the work height is what you really want.

 

[quadna71]

Instead of raising the whole box, you could also make a raised platform that sits on top of your existing bench top. If you do more hammering vs assembling then a nice solid top would be needed. You could also do it just to see if the work height is what you really want.

I can easily agree that it's a good idea and a much quicker way to achieve the height I'm looking for. But these days my back isn't what it used to be and I think having all the drawers and tools higher will be a benefit in the long run.