Raising partial garage roof for more height?

[mogger]

I've gone through all the postings about raising garages, roofs, etc. I've even worked as a building mover back in the seventies, so I understand the process.

My question is? can I just possibly raise one third of the garage about 4 feet to gain the height I need. I posted a picture in the intro section of my three car garage. All I really need is one bay out of the three to be higher. What would be the negatives involved in doing this. I realize I would need a support beam of some sort. Garage is 28' x 42'. Currently has 8' ceiling (7' doors) and sitting on a slab.

Any one have any input?

Here's my idea. I'm just learning to use Sketchup and can't quite figure out how to draw the roof overhang yet

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[BDT/NWMN]

I looked at the photos in your introduction, and have a few questions.


If you had a choice of the raising the entire 28x42 garage ceiling, or just a third of it a n d the labor and material costs between the choices was minimal, ,,,,,,,, would you rather have the whole ceiling raised?? That would be my choice, as I would raise the entire roof in one section, rather than "chop" it.. Two of the smaller doors could remain to reduce expenses...... the interior perimeter walls would be stripped inside... remove the ceiling rails on the door tracks.... block the ceiling.....cut the perimeter walls and sheathing with a sawsall just above the garage door headers.... raise the ceiling and roof about 4 feet... add 12 foot studs alongside the 8 footers that were just cut... add in your extra 4 foot of sheathing and match up your siding... Your header for the tall door will have to be repositioned to the proper height..... This way, there is little electrical that would have to be changed,,, the roof rebuild is eliminated,,,,,,,, you can raise all three doors if you wished,,,,,, Well, those are my thoughts........ I think you would end up with a nicer looking building also.....

 

[readhead]

You were a house mover. Jack the whole building up and add a 4' cmu stem wall and put it back down.

 

[mogger]

BDT, thanks for the input. good points. What problems does one run into with the hinge points of a crib wall? I read one article about a roof speading it apart if it's up high. Wouldn't the rafters tie it together?

readhead, I understand the concept of lifting a shop, I don't have a lot of equipment kicking around at the moment. I did just get a quote for 6k to lift it, so there's some motivation to do it myself?

thanks again!

 

[iagsxr]

Why not add on?

Other than the concrete I bet your material costs would be similar. If you have the ability to raise it you have the ability to frame an addition.

 

[bigbubba]

If i was doing it for myself i would raise the whole thing and pour a 4' stem wall.That way you get the extra height you need and when it gets dirty you can turn the hose on it!

 

[Oldbear]

My vote would be for a 4ft wall under all the shop walls. But your raising one section looks cool too... a chance to reside it and make a "barn" out of it to fit out in the country.

 

[Big-Foot]

I would like to raise my entire shop (32x32) A couple of feet. It has 11' ceilings now.

I think in your case, you will end up having to tear off the shingles on the part of the roof that you are raising, then build a new truss along side of an existing truss, then cut between the two trusses. You'll also need to support the walls at the corners because when you cut away the straps or whatever is holding the trusses to the top plate, the walls will want to move. Jacking it up from there to install shortie walls would not be an easy job, but would need to be done in steps. You could possibly use scaffolds inside and jack posts on them, but the scaffolding better be some pretty strong stuff...

I'll be keeping an eye on this thread...

 

[Kevin54]

That sounds like my garage and what I would like to do.

You won't have a problem raising it but it will take a little work. You'll have to cut through the roof where you want to raise it. Best bet is to just rip off all of your shingles. Mark out where you want to raise it at and try to make it on the side of a rafter or truss. Peel the plywood or OSB off of the side you want to raise. Now you'll have to remove your rafters or trusses. You'll have to add a stub wall on top of your outer wall plus your front and back wall. Ideally, you want to tie your OSB or whatever you have on the sides and the front and back.....you want to tie those in with the new short walls. If your walls are not finished off inside, then run your 2x's from the floor up to the top of your new wall, sistering them in to your existing studs.

The more your garage is finished off the more work you will have. If your walls are finished off inside, if you have anything other than vinyl siding outside, if your ceilings are finished off inside, all should be removed. It's going to cost you new roofing shingles, some new siding, some OSB or plywood, and a week of work to get it sealed back up. The more help you have the quicker it will go.

If you decide to do it, make sure you take a lot of progress pics and post them up. Your main thing to remember is tying the lower wall in with the new short wall built above. Doing it both inside and outside is the best way, and that is with studs and outside sheeting.

 

[BDT/NWMN]

BDT, thanks for the input. good points. What problems does one run into with the hinge points of a crib wall? I read one article about a roof speading it apart if it's up high. Wouldn't the rafters tie it together?

readhead, I understand the concept of lifting a shop, I don't have a lot of equipment kicking around at the moment. I did just get a quote for 6k to lift it, so there's some motivation to do it myself?

thanks again!

You are welcome..
I have more questions for you....... First, your garage appears to have been built as a two car garage, and later added on to... The lack of an apron on the third door is what leads me to believe this.... ?????? Is the third door needed????? This question will be a post in itself...

Being more of the typical John Q. Homeowner garage,,,, would that slab be strong enough to support a four foot tall concrete or block wall???? That would be the first thing that should be checked.. I favor concrete for the lower wall, but I have seen enough buildings fall apart when a block wall or undersized footing failed...

A wood wall on a concrete slab is more prone to decay with snow covered vehicles dripping all over,,, That is what you have...... Not well suited for washing down the floor with a water hose either,, but,,, nobody has bothered to ask you whether there is running water in that garage.!!!!!!... I do see a heater vent. What are the primary uses of your garage, and is the snow slop and wet floor an issuue????/


Your question about a crib wall......... all the eight foot studs in your garage would have a twelve foot stud nailed in along side of it..... above the garage doors; there are ways to beef that up.. Each garage door can have two new twelve foot king studs placed on each side,,,,, Want to beef it up more; put in a brutish 2x12 shelf or two the full length of any wall you question... anchor those buggers to every stud.... Ok,,, not so much to hold your extra boat anchors, but the canoe paddles and life jackets would be off the floor..... Side Note::: that wall 2x4 construction or 2x6 (HOPEFULLY) ...Another side note; about the Alberta Clippers..... The front of that garage lacks a SHEAR Wall!!!!!!!!!!!(((((((((((((((my OPINION)))))))) That is why I asked about that third door..... That door should be replaced by a solid wall.... Yep, the front wall should be 2x6 construction at the least to boot..... ((((again,, my opionion,, but that is a load bearing wall with door headers, and a sheathed and insulated ceiling))))


Another question;;; your three doors look to be in good condition, and appear to be the standard nine foot wide by seven foot high...... Would a pair of 9x9 doors be adequate for your needs????? Reason I ask is; you allready own a pair of 9x9 doors?? (almost,, short a little bit) the center sections of the third door could be used to lengthen the other two doors... tracks and openers can be reworked for reuse.... springs? you local garage door people could help on those...

Labor.. yep a bunch of it..
materials: about 25 sheets of plywood, about 70 twelve foot 2x4, enough twelve foot 2x6 to reframe the door sidewall, some lap siding to match your existing.and redo the front.... reuse garage door headers, all doors, and windows... No concrete expenses or roof work... insulation for the added four feet, interior wall covering (osb or plywood are strongest) builders hardware...... Price it out in your area.....

Did I mention a bunch of labor??
All this labor and material cost could be applied towards new construction with a heated concrete floor and stubwalls, and floor drain, tall ceiling, running water, and maid service((wishing))......... New construction raise the taxes out of sight............. New construction estimates?? Ok,

Hay Bob,, it is your turn to gab!!!!!!!

 

[mogger]

You are welcome..
I have more questions for you....... First, your garage appears to have been built as a two car garage, and later added on to... The lack of an apron on the third door is what leads me to believe this.... ?????? Is the third door needed????? This question will be a post in itself...

No, it was built that way, its a solid one piece slab inside. the aprons are poorly poured concrete done later. each apron is different. it's on the to do list.

Being more of the typical John Q. Homeowner garage,,,, would that slab be strong enough to support a four foot tall concrete or block wall???? That would be the first thing that should be checked.. I favor concrete for the lower wall, but I have seen enough buildings fall apart when a block wall or undersized footing failed...

I understand. I'll have to dig down a bit and see how thick the slab is, its just an inch or two about ground level

A wood wall on a concrete slab is more prone to decay with snow covered vehicles dripping all over,,, That is what you have...... Not well suited for washing down the floor with a water hose either,, but,,, nobody has bothered to ask you whether there is running water in that garage.!!!!!!... I do see a heater vent. What are the primary uses of your garage, and is the snow slop and wet floor an issuue????/

No running water. A standard old gas fired house furnace heats the place.
Primary use of the shop is for everything... automotive, welding, woodworking, painting, various hobbies,etc. Left side bay is for parking wife's 05 Mustang. not a real water problem I think, this floor is so darn level the water usually just pools and evaporates. I usually sweep and mop the floor when I'm in a clean up mood.

Your question about a crib wall......... all the eight foot studs in your garage would have a twelve foot stud nailed in along side of it..... above the garage doors; there are ways to beef that up.. Each garage door can have two new twelve foot king studs placed on each side,,,,, Want to beef it up more; put in a brutish 2x12 shelf or two the full length of any wall you question... anchor those buggers to every stud.... Ok,,, not so much to hold your extra boat anchors, but the canoe paddles and life jackets would be off the floor..... Side Note::: that wall 2x4 construction or 2x6 (HOPEFULLY) ...Another side note; about the Alberta Clippers..... The front of that garage lacks a SHEAR Wall!!!!!!!!!!!(((((((((((((((my OPINION)))))))) That is why I asked about that third door..... That door should be replaced by a solid wall.... Yep, the front wall should be 2x6 construction at the least to boot..... ((((again,, my opionion,, but that is a load bearing wall with door headers, and a sheathed and insulated ceiling))))

The garage is 2x4 construction, insulated and dry walled inside. old and yellowed, not taped or mudded.

not being construction edumacated, I'm not quite sure what you mean by a shear wall.

Another question;;; your three doors look to be in good condition, and appear to be the standard nine foot wide by seven foot high...... Would a pair of 9x9 doors be adequate for your needs????? Reason I ask is; you allready own a pair of 9x9 doors?? (almost,, short a little bit) the center sections of the third door could be used to lengthen the other two doors... tracks and openers can be reworked for reuse.... springs? you local garage door people could help on those...

three doors are nice to have, but two might do. But that's the reason for my question in the first place. One high bay 10' or even 12' and two shorter ones.

Labor.. yep a bunch of it..
materials: about 25 sheets of plywood, about 70 twelve foot 2x4, enough twelve foot 2x6 to reframe the door sidewall, some lap siding to match your existing.and redo the front.... reuse garage door headers, all doors, and windows... No concrete expenses or roof work... insulation for the added four feet, interior wall covering (osb or plywood are strongest) builders hardware...... Price it out in your area.....

Did I mention a bunch of labor??
All this labor and material cost could be applied towards new construction with a heated concrete floor and stubwalls, and floor drain, tall ceiling, running water, and maid service((wishing))......... New construction raise the taxes out of sight............. New construction estimates?? Ok,

Hay Bob,, it is your turn to gab!!!!!!!

yes, I like to dream too! After thinking about it, and what future needs I have, one high bay would suit me. Possible future uses: restoring vintage tractors or an old car. woodworking projects. maintenance on own vehicles.
being lazy and thrifty(cheap??) come into play too. garage is finished inside, shelving, benches, etc. and I don't want to tear everything down and
start over, although that's not a big obstacle. This is not a cost is no object project but I don't want to do it cheaply either. Just interested in pros and cons of the idea of raising one third.

I really appreciate your input and ideas! thank you!

 

[BDT/NWMN]

Hi Bob, Enjoy the discussion, and will get back to you..... Raising the end stall two or four feet can definately be done... I will toss you a few thoughts about doing that.. One quick question for now: are there any plans or needs for an overhead hoist (or "sky hook", as I call them) ??? Reason I ask is that it can be built into that end stall for a small cost..

 

[info2x]

For those that are advocating lifting the entire building, how would you deal with the current openings for the doors? I'm currently debating what to do in my 30x40. I'd like to lift the entire building with another course of block or two but the doors kind of worry me. I suppose you would just cut the doors/headers so they don't move throughout the lift.

Weather just lifting a roof or an entire building what kind of equipment are we talking about?

 

[mogger]

I came across a couple of roof lifting videos.

And this company is really cool! too bad they're so far away... should I call and ask for a quote?

http://hightechdormer.com/gallery/project1.html