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Raising step height, first time doing concrete - tips?

GirchyGirchy

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 14, 2011
Messages
9,901
Location
Central Indiana
Guys,

Hoping you could help out. I have a new entry door for my garage waiting to be installed. It's pre-hung, so it has a threshold at the bottom. Problem is, the current door opening has none - it's hanging above the concrete block foundation with roughly filled in holes, so basically no good flat area to set the door.

So what I'm wanting to do is simply fill in the area above the foundation blocks to make it level with the rest of the poured concrete floor. This will give a better spot for the door and look better as well. Attached are a couple of pics - the blocks are about 1" down from the floor. I'm planning to put a 2x6 across the opening as a form and that should be all I need.

Currently the bottom of the jambs have been cut to give room for the concrete. The wood was in poor shape and will be replaced with treated 2x8s as framing. I'd like to fill in the gap behind where the new boards will go but don't think it's worth messing with.

I was going to clean and put some bonding adhesive on the existing block before putting in the concrete. Then trowel in the concrete, use a wood float to smooth it out, and let it sit.

Any tips? Particular concrete mix to use/avoid, weather concerns (rain & cold), etc?

Thanks for any help!


DSC_9890 by GirchyGirchy, on Flickr


DSC_9889 by GirchyGirchy, on Flickr
 
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Sureshot

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jan 3, 2011
Messages
3,134
Location
Bridge Creek, OK
I had to fix something similiar once. I used solid composite deck boards, and composite shims etc. I cut some of the deck doard on edge to get thin pieces etc. I then used spray foam to seal it once I had a good solid surface for the new door. It was time consuming but one piece at a time it came together.
 

LegacyIndustrial

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jun 7, 2010
Messages
7,994
Location
deerfield, IL
Bust it all out, dowel the floor, install some wire and pour it solid. It will look great and you won't have an accident waiting to happen.

I shouldn't say this, but this is when we need "INDY 500" to give you the blow by blow on the repair.
 
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theoldwizard1

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,216
Location
SE MI
I had to fix something similiar once. I used solid composite deck boards, and composite shims etc. I cut some of the deck doard on edge to get thin pieces etc. I then used spray foam to seal it once I had a good solid surface for the new door. It was time consuming but one piece at a time it came together.

If you have a table saw, so that you can cut some pressure treated on edge for shimming, this is the quickest and easiest way to go ! Composite is overkill, unless you have it on hand.

Take a couple of pressure treated 2x6s and placing them on edge, cut the thickness down to what is required. Then, cut about 1/8" off of one edge of each 2x6. These 2 surfaces will be mated (will construction adhesive work on PT ?). This is a good application for pocket screws, but if you don't have a jig, get some 4" long wood/deck screws (treated for PT use), drill a couple of counter sink holes big enough for the head of the screw, about 3" deep into the edge of one of the 2x6s. Lines the cut edges of the 2x6 up and drive the screws home.

You know have a 2x12 cut to the proper thickness to use as your space.

I would use Red Head Poly Set Anchors into the block and 3" #12 stainless screws to hold it down to the block.
 
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