Ran #6 wire to compressor, so how do I splice them?

[Mike F]

Okay, so now that I ran 6-3 w/ground for my compressor, how do you splice these things? First of all, I know I am only using 2 hot and a ground. As luck would have it I had 45' of it left over from a job that was done in my prior house and I brought it with me when I moved because, hey, you never know when you'll use it ( note to wife: you see it's not all just accumulated junk that I'll never use! )Anyway, I ran the cable from the box to where the compressor will be. I need to run it into a 6 x 6 x 4 pull box - which is the only way I can see to allow me the cu in req'd to meet fill code. From the box I will run AC to the compressor.
So now I have 3 questions.
1) I think I am supposed to have a cutoff switch near the compressor by code. If so, where do I find such a switch to hande 40 amps, and can I wire #6 to the switch? I was thinking of an AC cutoff, but these are the type that you have to pull out the connector on the inside of the box and is not too convenient.
2) Can I run the non-metallic sheathed 6-3 w/ground through the AC to the compressor if I use the proper bushings on the ends of the metallic AC conduit?
3) If I need to splice the #6 wires, is it better to use a very large wire nut or do I need a split connector?

Thanks for the help. I have been trying to read up on as much as I can, but it seems hard to find answers to these specific questions.

 

[CraigFL]

You need one of these:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?ItemId=1611603607

and these:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?ItemId=1611713560

for splices.

 

[Mike F]

$215 for a switch . On the bright side, If I use the switch, I won't need the $31 ea **** connector (x2 = $62). Are there any other, shall I say, cheaper alternatives or sources? By the time I get done with it, given the 70' of 3/4" copper pipe, valves, regulator/separator, wire, etc, the cost of the compressor will be the least expensive part ot the setup!

 

[69lkmno]

I bought a 60 amp switch box with switch from Home Depot for $12.00

 

[Mike F]

Does the switch need to be fused? If not, is this an acceptable unit? http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1665326&PMT4NO=0

69lkmno- I looked online but couldn't find that in Home Depot. Did you get it online, or at the store?

 

[sharpshooter]

$215 for a switch . On the bright side, If I use the switch, I won't need the $31 ea **** connector (x2 = $62). Are there any other, shall I say, cheaper alternatives or sources? By the time I get done with it, given the 70' of 3/4" copper pipe, valves, regulator/separator, wire, etc, the cost of the compressor will be the least expensive part ot the setup!

I know the feeling man, I just bought my compressor for 1200 and had another 900 in getting a 100 amp service to my shop

 

[MXtras]

Check EBay or nearly any local industrial surplus store, possibly even a scrap yard. Used ones are easy to find and a lot cheaper.

Scott

 

[PAToyota]

You don't need a fuse on the disconnect. I've noticed a lot of things don't show up online for HD and Lowes that they carry in the stores.

 

[69lkmno]

Does the switch need to be fused? If not, is this an acceptable unit? http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1665326&PMT4NO=0

69lkmno- I looked online but couldn't find that in Home Depot. Did you get it online, or at the store?

Here's what I got:
Eaton Switch Style (Air Conditioner Disconnect) 60Amp 240V

And I got it at the store.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

As already noted, go to home Depot, Lowes, Menards, wherever, and get an A/C outside disconnect box, Eaton, Seimens, GE, whatever, anywhere from $8 to $15 and 60 amp rated. You need a circuit breaker in the panel at the beginning of the run, but only a disconnect at the compressor (and only NEC required if over 50 ft or out of the line of sight from the CB to the compressor).

If you install a disconnect, you don't need any splices, its wires in, wires out using the connections in the box. If you are not using a disconnect (less than 50 ft and line of sight) then you don't need splices, just run the wire continous to the compressor.

http://www.doityourself.com/invt/6118301

http://automation.usa.siemens.com/resident/product/SACNF.pdf

http://automation.usa.siemens.com/resident/product/SACF.pdf

Charles

 

[bmwpower]

Hey Charles,
Stupid question...Does that 50 foot line of sight include through windows? Ie, if I have my compressor installed outside with a window right next to it, with a clear view to the panel, does that comply?

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Hey Charles,
Stupid question...Does that 50 foot line of sight include through windows? Ie, if I have my compressor installed outside with a window right next to it, with a clear view to the panel, does that comply?

I doubt you could get that by the local building code inspector, but the NEC isn't clear, it just says the breaker/fuse must be line of sight with the motor's controller --or-- if the circuit breaker has a means of being "locked" in the open position the equipment may be out of sight of the breaker, however the provision for locking must remain in place at all times, no matter if the lock is installed or not. (removable tag out, lock out type breaker locks do not qualify, in other words).

Personally, I want a disconnect close by to anything hardwired, such as a compressor.

Charles

 

[Mike F]

Glad I can at least save on the switch. But if I do spend a few extra bucks on a non-pullout type switch can I use this: Siemens Heavy Duty Safety Switch rated 200 amps, 600 VAC, 600 VDC, 3 Pole, 3 Wire
NEMA Type 1, Non-Fused and just hook up 2 wires? It's going cheap on ebay. http://i9.ebayimg.com/06/i/08/88/ag/bb_1.JPG
http://i24.ebayimg.com/06/i/08/97/3a/cd_1.JPG

What about this->

2) Can I run the non-metallic sheathed 6-3 w/ground through the AC to the compressor if I use the proper bushings on the ends of the metallic AC conduit?

 

[Vermaraj]

Hey Charles,
Stupid question...Does that 50 foot line of sight include through windows? Ie, if I have my compressor installed outside with a window right next to it, with a clear view to the panel, does that comply?

line of site is defined as no temporary or permanent obstructions that could hinder an operators sight. Any part of the structure is an automatic disqualification.

So window which could be dirty or have blinds is not acceptable

Things that are acceptable:

wall that is more than 16" below the disconnect
moveable machinery that does not cover any part of the disconnect or hinder its operation

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Glad I can at least save on the switch. But if I do spend a few extra bucks on a non-pullout type switch can I use this: Siemens Heavy Duty Safety Switch rated 200 amps, 600 VAC, 600 VDC, 3 Pole, 3 Wire
NEMA Type 1, Non-Fused and just hook up 2 wires? It's going cheap on ebay. http://i9.ebayimg.com/06/i/08/88/ag/bb_1.JPG
http://i24.ebayimg.com/06/i/08/97/3a/cd_1.JPG

What about this->

Kinda huge but yes, you would just use two of the contacts. You would also need ground and neutral bars in the box to make those connections.

Are you saying you want to run the NM sheathed #6 wire (3 w/grd I assume) inside a metalic sheathed flex conduit? to the compressor? not sure what you are asking.

Charles

 

[Mike F]

I was asking about running the NM sheathed #6 3w/grd through a metallic sheathed flex conduit. I was under the impression that this would be the safer (and perhaps be required by code) method of wiring the compressor from the safety switch, rather than running the NM sheathed wire from the switch to the compressor.
I was able to score a 60 Amp safety switch from a friend at work, so that part is taken care of.
I was at Home Depot tonight to pick up some #6 THHN and a #8 groud wire to run through the metallic sheathed conduit rather than running the NM through it. HD no longer will cut the metallic conduit, selling it only in 25' rolls. Since I only need 6' or so, I figure I will look elsewhere for it, and save the extra $$ to put towards the filter/regulator/separator. The costs just keep mounting...

 

[Mike F]

Well, as seems to be my routine, I make things more complicated than they need to be (don't we all sometimes?). It is not that I am cheap, rather frugal, and prefer to save wherever I can and put the $ towards other purchases. After looking in a Home Depot nearer to work- which is in a different county- they will cut armored cable for me. So I will be going with armored cable conduit #6 for the hot leads, and #10 ground, which is the same as in Charles' pic, here

Thanks for all the help you guys have offered, and forgive my ignorance on some of these topics.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Well, as seems to be my routine, I make things more complicated than they need to be (don't we all sometimes?). It is not that I am cheap, rather frugal, and prefer to save wherever I can and put the $ towards other purchases. After looking in a Home Depot nearer to work- which is in a different county- they will cut armored cable for me. So I will be going with armored cable conduit #6 for the hot leads, and #10 ground, which is the same as in Charles' pic, here

Thanks for all the help you guys have offered, and forgive my ignorance on some of these topics.

In all honesty, you would not have any problems running that jacketed cable bundle in the conduit. In fact the code treats a jacketed cable, like Romex, as one conductor when determining conduit fill precentage. You can fill up to 53% of the conduit if using a single multiconductor (jacketed) cable. If less than 24 inches, the conduit is treated as a ****** and you can fill to 60% of area.

Charles