Rand 4000 Air Compressor

[sam03]

I bought a used compressor on Craigslist and they guy i bought it from said it needed a tube and a pressure switch. The tube i guess was copper and attaches to the tank and the other end attaches to the pressure switch. I went to tractor supply cause he said i could buy both parts there. Well they didnt have either. I looked at the compressors that they sell there and the tube that are on those compressors are 1/4 plastic tubing abt the same size as a RO water filter line. Any ways any idea of what the tubing does and if i can replace it with plastic line? I have searched around and cant seem to find anything. I dont want to have my compressor blow up so safety first. The name plate on the compressor is impossible to read so im kinda lost.

 

[CNGsaves]

Post up PICTURES and you'll get best advice.

EDIT 1st post, Go Advanced, Manage Attachments, Browse your harddrive
to link up to 7 pictures, click Upload, click Save.

Once the GJ compressor guru's see your pictures, you'll get options for obtaining flexible copper tubing, compression fittings, etc.

 

[finn]

The tube is soft copper which should be available at a (real) hardware store. I doubt if Tractor Supply would have it.

The pressure switch should be available there, though. They seem generic. Get one that tops out at 145 or 150 psi, though. That compressor is pretty old.

Rebuild parts for the compressor are (or were, last I checked) available at Gerneral Compressor in Bensenville Il. I think they have a website with a phone number.

 

[jonjon1]

pictures would be better for getting you an answer, if its the small line that goes from the check valve to the pressure switch then you can use 1/8, 1/4" (depending what is there to start) compression copper, any plumbing supply or home depot should have that stuff...

For a pressure switch, I seem them at tractor supply, but they are easy to find, I think that compressor is a single stage 125psi switch, the pop valve is set at 140/150 so make sure you get a switch that will work correctly..

 

[sam03]

Another pic

 

[sam03]

Another one

 

[MacMcMacmac]

That looks like a push lock fitting on the check valve, which means whatever was in there was not copper to begin with. If you could turn that one out, replace it with a 90 degree Swagelock brass fitting, then insert a proper copper line and run that to the new pressure switch, you will be good to go. The pressure switch should have a nut a ferrule on it already, and the 90 degree Swagelock will have those on it as well. You will need 1/4" copper tubing. I can't see what pipe thread size is on that 90 degree fitting at the check valve, but it is usually 1/8" NPT.

Sometimes there is not enough space around the check valve for the fitting to rotate completely, in which case you would have to remove the entire check valve in order to remove the original fitting. I do not trust plastic lines with the amount of heat a check valve can be exposed to. Teflon would probably be ok, but copper is foolproof.

The pressure switch will go on that exposed pipe ****** in the first picture.

If you are not familiar with Swagelocks (compression fittings) look here:

Keep the copper line pressed into the fitting while you tighten the nut, sometimes it can back out and the ring (ferrule) will compress at the very end of the tube, or slide off it altogether. The rings are not salvageable once they are tightened.