Random idea for air lines::

[justinking060310]

I have my attached garage tore down to the bare studs and was sitting in the garage staring at the rafters pondering what you all might think about running copper tubing to the peak(garage is 10ft ceiling, attic peak is 22ft) and then back down and into the garage run. It would be a huge uphill from the compressor in order to drop all the water back into the compressor tank(which has an auto drain on it).

Thoughts? Overkill? Good idea?

 

[Stuey]

I'm relatively noobish in terms of air line design and configurations, but couldn't you just slap an inline filter past the compressor? Plus, what if the water didn't condense until near or past the peak?

 

[justinking060310]

the inline filters dont really cut it when it is humid - esp. for sandblasting and spraying lacquer.

I had the same thought about the condensation point -- i thought of coiling a 30ft tube(above the ceiling) and then running it up the rafter line.

 

[e-tek]

Re-read all the threads - it's all in there! But essentially, a short rubber hose from compressor to your metal line (i'd go black pipe!) will keep the compressor water from going into system. As Stuey said, it's the water that condensses in the piping AFTER the compressor you are trying to do something with. Black pipe condenses the water in the compressed air best - but copper will work - just make sure you run your lines downhill away from the compressor so any water will run to the traps, then plumb-in risers when you want to connect along the line or at the end (the condensed water won't want to travel up) and finally your seperator and/or dessicant/heated dryer before the (shortest possible) hose to your equipment.

Hope that helps - I'm tired of compressor talk now.

Anyone else care to give differing advice? I knew you would!!

 

[kbs2244]

This is how the guys that do it every day suggest an install be done.

http://www.tptools.com/StaticText/airline-piping-diagram.pdf


Note the locations of the drains.

 

[e-tek]

I put this link up for my Post on Black Pipe lines and some member spanked me because they (tptools) sell Black Pipe! Don't know why - I like to take advice from people in the business!!

 

[MustangRick]

I am getting ready to plumb my garage and I am going to make that first vertical run up to the peak to get as much water out as soon as possible. If I run to the ceiling I will have about a 7' rise, if I run to the peak I will have close to 12'. I will then just angle down the slope and go along the ceiling to all my branches. I am also going to do copper because I had way too many rust issues with my previous garage's setup.

 

[Industrial Concepts]

I have my attached garage tore down to the bare studs and was sitting in the garage staring at the rafters pondering what you all might think about running copper tubing to the peak(garage is 10ft ceiling, attic peak is 22ft) and then back down and into the garage run. It would be a huge uphill from the compressor in order to drop all the water back into the compressor tank(which has an auto drain on it).

Thoughts? Overkill? Good idea?

I run quite a bit of airline a year. For cleanliness Black pipe is a poor choice for airline. It rusts inside & most likely rust in it when you purchase it. Go with either copper or aluminum. Never , never, ever use PVC, OSHA does not approve of using PVC.

We use rubber whip hoses for vibration isolation.

 

[kbs2244]

The problem with rust in black pipe is not getting the moisture out before it goes into the plumbing.
And the key to getting the moisture out is cooling the air.
For 90 percent of the installs the big tank does this just fine. It has a fair amount of surface area for the cooling.
But if you are going to be a high volume user, sand blasting or such, then the air doesn’t stay in the tank long enough cool and you should add some kind of cooling provision after the tank.
A large dia vertical run will do this. No matter what metal it is made of. Just expanding into the large dia will cool it some and the extra time it sits lets it cool some more.
So, your original idea is a good one. Use at least 2 inch pipe and put a drain at the bottom, below where it comes from the tank. Just visualize water dripping down the inside of the pipe, against the flow of air, and you will be OK.

 

[SteveU]

I don't see rust in black pipe as a big problem. Bled my pipe down yesterday and emptied the filter, estimate I had 1/4 tsp of rust & crud in there after 8 months of home use. If I got this amount each time I used the compressor it would be different but it has had quite a bit of use to generate this small amount including running a cheap air drill with a wire wheel to take surface rust off the table saw, drill press, etc. If/when I ever replace it it will be galvanized.

 

[buening]

I ran galvanized for my garage, especially due to the copper prices lately. Have you priced copper yet? The only problem with running the pipe up into the rafters would be leaks/maintenance. You'd have to get up in the rafters to make any possible repairs and an air leak in that section would be harder to notice since the ceiling would block most of the noise. I don't see an extra 5' or so making a huge difference. My 0.02

 

[e-tek]

There is NO rust issue with Black Pipe! Can anyone REALLY say they've had a rust problem with it? EVERY shop I've ever seen runs it and there's NO issue. Anyays, whatever you use you'd have a dryer and filter at the end so the point is mute anyways.
As for Galvanized, I've heard it's more likely the galvanizing will peel than the rust in Black Pipe will cuase a problem - but again, you'd have a filter wouldn't you?
As for copper, I've seen a lot of posts extolling it's virtues as well, so maybe it is a good alternative - providing you can solder properly (!) and it has a vent nearby to help with cooling.
Good luck!

 

[buening]

Yup, filters at every end so rust/scaling wasn't an issue with me. Galvanized was basically the same price as black pipe, so I figured the galvanized would work just fine for me. Using copper was going to be almost triple the cost of using galvanized pipe, so it was a no brainer for me.

 

[Industrial Concepts]

There is NO rust issue with Black Pipe! Can anyone REALLY say they've had a rust problem with it? EVERY shop I've ever seen runs it and there's NO issue. Anyays, whatever you use you'd have a dryer and filter at the end so the point is mute anyways.
As for Galvanized, I've heard it's more likely the galvanizing will peel than the rust in Black Pipe will cuase a problem - but again, you'd have a filter wouldn't you?
As for copper, I've seen a lot of posts extolling it's virtues as well, so maybe it is a good alternative - providing you can solder properly (!) and it has a vent nearby to help with cooling.
Good luck!

I've been in shops where the black iron pipe is 25-40% clogged with rust. They were also using a refridgerated dryer. Granted, most hobbiest are not going to be havivg the high air demand that a body shop or manufacturing plant has. But a build up of rust does rob air flow.

I am not trying to sell aluminum air line on this forum, but with all of the negative issues that I see daily & the price of copper, it is the best choice for airline.

I am not a fan of refrigerated dryers but they are cheap. The are not effective below 35 deg. f. & they hate dusty enviroments.