Rapidair vs hydraulic lines

[Bellaireroad]

I'm getting ready to plumb out my compressor. Copper lines are already installed in the garage. The plumb out will be: Compressor ----filter ----air dryer ---- into existing system. I would like to have custom lengths to keep things neat. Would a rapidair kit work for this, or would hydraulic lines be preferable?

 

[CNGsaves]

Below is standard setup for homeowner shop airline system.
https://cached.tptools.com/Images/airline-piping-diagram.pdf

See Item F in the drawing that TP Tools calls "flexible metal hose" which could done at low cost with Hydraulic Hose from Tractor Supply. For $25 here is 3 ft long 3/4" hydraulic hose that would be great for flexible connection between the compressor and rigid airline system:
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-3-4-in-x-36-in-2-250-psi-hydraulic-hose

 

[cooljoe57]

Hydraulic hose isn't really made for air. Yes its over kill in the pressure department, however the air will eventually seep through the inner tube and become trapped between in inner and outer tube. This will cause bubbles to appear on the cover, which will lead to premature failure of the hose. All this said, it will work fine, but there are far better options.

 

[CNGsaves]

^ ^ ^ Think you've been smokin' some of the cool there Joe !!

That hydraulic hose is rated for 2,250 psi and will last multiple lifetimes of airline system use even at 175 psi. Many GJer's have used similar flexible connection for their airline system.

 

[matt_i]

I agree that the hydraulic hose should not be an issue. I have seen and installed several in heavy manufacturing plants where failure of a standard airhose caused a major problem. I have never seen the bubbling and I would question how the 100psi air could attack the inner jacket.

That said, a "better quality" air hose, I'm thinking specifically of Goodyear's AutoGrip...Parker has something similar but I forgot its name or number, would last a very long time in such service conditions, in my opinion.

 

[larry4406]

+1 on the hydraulic hose from TSC.

The hose I bought had male NPT threads each end so I bought a black iron plumbing union for one end.

 

[dave89iroc]

^ ^ ^ Think you've been smokin' some of the cool there Joe !!

That hydraulic hose is rated for 2,250 psi and will last multiple lifetimes of airline system use even at 175 psi. Many GJer's have used similar flexible connection for their airline system.

agreed, possibly if running air pressure at near the same pressure as hydraulic pressures the hose would see, but not at under 200 psi it will experience in a residential(or even most commercial) systems

 

[albaran]

I installed the Rapid Air system a few years ago and it has worked out very well. Easy and economical. I don't know why more people on this forum don't go for it.

 

[Falcon67]

+1 on the hydraulic hose from TSC.

The hose I bought had male NPT threads each end so I bought a black iron plumbing union for one end.

Same here. My 3/4" hydro hose running from the gate valve at the compressor to the air lines has been in use for about 10 years and still looks new.

 

[Brian_WK]

Hydraulic hose isn't really made for air. Yes its over kill in the pressure department, however the air will eventually seep through the inner tube and become trapped between in inner and outer tube. This will cause bubbles to appear on the cover, which will lead to premature failure of the hose. All this said, it will work fine, but there are far better options.

This happens on 3k and 4.5k HPA lines when using hydraulic lines but not at the lower pressures of a shop. Any bubbles that are going to form are going to happen the first time you air it up and is a manufactured defect. A 3/4 pre-made length hydraulic or custom length from a shop will work perfectly fine.

Brian

 

[jloehlein]

Just a tip - when connecting your compressor output to your air system, it would be ideal if you had some way to disconnect it in the future (e.g. a swivel fitting). I plumbed in a 3/4" hydraulic hose from Tractor Supply, but both sides have fixed fittings. It didn't matter during the install, but after I got it together I found a leak and the only ways to remove that hose were either cutting it out, or disassembling the downstream components in the system.

McMaster sells rubber air hose rated up to 300psi with a female swivel for a comparable price to the hydraulic hoses at Tractor Supply (link).

 

[Heel2toe]

I plumbed my air lines a couple months ago and had great luck using a combination of the 3/4" rapidair kit and 3/4" copper.

If you are planning on tying into your existing copper system if might be wise to simply use copper in the first place. In my setup I have 2 drops as well as a hose reel hanging from the ceiling so I liked the manifolds that came with the rapidair kit so thats why I wanted to incorporate it into my system. However my setup goes compressor to whip hose to 30' of copper then filter regulator then rapidair system. I choose to add in the 30' of copper pipe prior to everything else as that helps the air cool down and condensate the moisture. If you plan to go directly from the compressor to the rapidair kit you will not have the same benefit.

Also, if you are incorporating into an exiting system why even bother with the rapidair system? Its a nice kit dont get me wrong, I just don't understand the benefit in your case.

 

[frazbmw]

I worked in a garage once and we used pvc, easy to do. I don't know about cost comparison.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

 

[gungatim]

I worked in a garage once and we used pvc, easy to do. I don't know about cost comparison.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

why is there no popcorn emoticon on this forum...

 

[Bellaireroad]

I plumbed my air lines a couple months ago and had great luck using a combination of the 3/4" rapidair kit and 3/4" copper.

If you are planning on tying into your existing copper system if might be wise to simply use copper in the first place. In my setup I have 2 drops as well as a hose reel hanging from the ceiling so I liked the manifolds that came with the rapidair kit so thats why I wanted to incorporate it into my system. However my setup goes compressor to whip hose to 30' of copper then filter regulator then rapidair system. I choose to add in the 30' of copper pipe prior to everything else as that helps the air cool down and condensate the moisture. If you plan to go directly from the compressor to the rapidair kit you will not have the same benefit.

Also, if you are incorporating into an exiting system why even bother with the rapidair system? Its a nice kit dont get me wrong, I just don't understand the benefit in your case.

Thx...I have a couple of filters to plumb in before the dryer , and don't want a jumble of hoses


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[btdobie]

I worked in a garage once and we used pvc, easy to do. I don't know about cost comparison.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

The problems with PVC as an air line are well documented in this forum, but the main and most important reason it that when it burst it sends out shrapnel. Whereas, metal and rubber tubing split but remain in one piece so you end up with far fewer holes in you.

Additionally (and someone correct me if i am wrong or outdated), OSHA only allows 3 types of air service line Copper, Iron(galvanized or black), and purpose engineered (Rapidair for example). Ofcourse this doesn't include hoses, only solid lines for distribution.

 

[frazbmw]

The problems with PVC as an air line are well documented in this forum, but the main and most important reason it that when it burst it sends out shrapnel. Whereas, metal and rubber tubing split but remain in one piece so you end up with far fewer holes in you.

Additionally (and someone correct me if i am wrong or outdated), OSHA only allows 3 types of air service line Copper, Iron(galvanized or black), and purpose engineered (Rapidair for example). Ofcourse this doesn't include hoses, only solid lines for distribution.

Makes sense, maybe that's why he did it cheap,easy, and it would kill his employees. That's why forums like this rock, I learned something today.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

 

[WhiffySpark]

The problems with PVC as an air line are well documented in this forum, but the main and most important reason it that when it burst it sends out shrapnel. Whereas, metal and rubber tubing split but remain in one piece so you end up with far fewer holes in you.

Additionally (and someone correct me if i am wrong or outdated), OSHA only allows 3 types of air service line Copper, Iron(galvanized or black), and purpose engineered (Rapidair for example). Ofcourse this doesn't include hoses, only solid lines for distribution.

Hate to tell you but most shop owners could care less about OSHA.

 

[Moose364]

I ran Rapid air last year and love it, the best part of the rapid air system is anytime you want to add a drop or a hose reel, it as easy as pie, and takes 10 mins, to cut and install a Tee the only place I have the Hydraulic hose is from the compressor through the wall to the inside of the shop.
The only downside to rapid air system is sunlight from what I have read is it does not last in direct sunlight,

 

[Rocker4x4]

I ran hydro line from compressor to filter, then Rapid air out, had conduit for a sleeve ran under the concrete to multiple spots in garage. Then ran the Rapid air through all the conduit to hose reels, outlets, etc...

 

[cooljoe57]

^ ^ ^ Think you've been smokin' some of the cool there Joe !!

That hydraulic hose is rated for 2,250 psi and will last multiple lifetimes of airline system use even at 175 psi. Many GJer's have used similar flexible connection for their airline system.

I'm not doubting the pressure of the hose, obviously it'll hold any air pressure a standard compressor will put out.

I'm also not saying that its a bad idea to use hydraulic hose, we in fact use it quite often at work, many quick lube type places prefer it. (i happen to work for a hydraulic hose shop) Just stating a fact that air does permeate the inner tube. See the link below for a much better explanation.

http://www.new-line.com/information/what-does-pin-pricked-hose-cover-mean

Oh and i might still be smoking the cool

 

[Ironhorse74]

Hydraulic hose isn't really made for air. Yes its over kill in the pressure department, however the air will eventually seep through the inner tube and become trapped between in inner and outer tube. This will cause bubbles to appear on the cover, which will lead to premature failure of the hose. All this said, it will work fine, but there are far better options.

So low pressure air seeps more than high pressure hydraulic fluid? Pass whatever you are smoking.

 

[cooljoe57]

Pressure isn't the issue, its the fact that gas, or air, is thiner than oil.

 

[kspwski]

It really depends on the tube material of the hydraulic hose. I just checked a couple standard hoses we use, both list as good resistance to gas permeation. You are definitely good to go with hyd hose.