ratchet drive size crossover points

[littlebean]

think the title makes sense...……..

if you have sockets across differing drive sizes (1/4", 3/8", 1/2" etc) at what points do you change sizes and how much overlap do you have?

using metric as an example:

1/4" to 13mm, 3/8" 10mm to 19mm and so on

what brought you to the decision you made - physical sizes of sockets/torque ratings etc?

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Maximum sizing that they will sell me. 1/4 up to 15mm and 5/8 respectively. 3/8 up to 24mm and 1". IMO the metric 3/8 should go up to 27mm in standard shallow/deep sockets; since that would cover knock sensors very well, while also covering low torque and nut running larger suspension fasteners in restricted areas.


I use whatever will fit. Wall thickness increases with drive size, so at 10mm 3/8 may not fit due to nearby obstructions, but a 1/4 10mm will easily do so. A decent quality 1/4 ratchet isn't going to fail/slip if you're yanking on it. If I can't get it free with a 6 inch ratchet, I get the 10 inch, etc.

 

[Y00PER]

Maximum sizing that they will sell me. 1/4 up to 15mm and 5/8 respectively. 3/8 up to 24mm and 1". IMO the metric 3/8 should go up to 27mm in standard shallow/deep sockets; since that would cover knock sensors very well, while also covering low torque and nut running larger suspension fasteners in restricted areas.


I use whatever will fit. Wall thickness increases with drive size, so at 10mm 3/8 may not fit due to nearby obstructions, but a 1/4 10mm will easily do so. A decent quality 1/4 ratchet isn't going to fail/slip if you're yanking on it. If I can't get it free with a 6 inch ratchet, I get the 10 inch, etc.

3/8 does go up to 26. SK makes them, but I have yet to see a 27mm in 3/8

 

[littlebean]

thanks - that seems logical, i'm trying to decide if its worth getting 1/4" drive stuff and I hadn't thought about what you've said about fit

 

[DwightS]

You’ll tend to find tighter places in auto interiors and will gravitate towards 1/4”. In the engine bay, a little more “umph” may be needed but space may still be a little tight, so 3/8 is a good compromise. Under the car/truck larger bolts and more leverage would necessitate the 1/2.

That’s my observation at least and I just shade-tree my own junk, so I haven’t had any need for anything large than 1/2.


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[lardy1]

The older I get, the more I rely on my 1/4" drive stuff. Common sense has a place in all this.

 

[MattT]

IME when bolt diameter equals drive size is when you sometimes need to step up to the next size. This is with pro quality tools so YMMV on diy stuff.

Also agree with Scott on buying the maximum sizes you can get. At least for 1/4" and 3/8" drive. Someone starts making 1/4" drive to 19mm I'll buy 'em. And 1/4" drive spark plug sockets.

 

[lardy1]

I've never understood why SK makes a 5/8" standard socket in 1/4" drive but deep well stops at 9/16".

 

[Dave455]

It all depends on how you work.

I see a lot of ‘sets’ of things like Torx sockets, that have 2 or 3 drive sizes in the same ‘set’.

That’s fine if you always work out of a big box and have handles in every size to hand, but useless to me. If I go to do a job, and just take my 3/8 drive tools with me, I want as wide a range of sizes as possible!

In 1/4 drive, up to 14mm (I’d go to 15 but never use that size).

3/8 from 8mm up to about 19mm. I’ll add a 7mm if it’s offered (Always need that size, hate carrying 1/4 just for that) but bigger than 19 and 3/8 drive is struggling!

1/2 drive from about 10mm to 32mm. I have 3/4 drive sockets from 19mm, but need the big 1/2 drive sometimes as clearance is so limited on things like hub nuts.

If I can just get by taking 3/8 drive to a job, I will. If I think I might not, I usually take 1/4 drive AND 1/2 drive and drop the 3/8!

 

[JohnM45]

thanks - that seems logical, i'm trying to decide if its worth getting 1/4" drive stuff and I hadn't thought about what you've said about fit

I think it depends on what you're primarily working on. I am doing standard maintenance on my wife's car and my 3/4 ton pickup. But, my primary "major" wrenching is on motorcycles....using mostly 1/4 inch and some 3/8 covers the majority of my work.

Most maintenance on the truck, it's the 3/8 to 1/2 inch drive stuff that gets used.

Basically, its nice to have it all, but I'd venture to guess 1/4 and 3/8 is the place to start building broad sets.

Anytime I used to need a larger socket for a bike's rear axle, I would always buy an impact grade socket. Now, I have a fairly good selection from 22mm up to 36mm in 1/2 inch drive impact. And, as time goes on, you find how handy it is that that odd-ball 28mm is sitting in the socket drawer.

 

[4xdog]

Years ago -- like 40 or so -- I tended to use 3/8" as default, moving down or up where space or force required.

I've evolved to using 1/4" as default the last ten years or so, moving up to 3/8" where more torque is needed and rarely breaking out the 1/2" drive stuff.

That's working on my own cars, bikes, bicycles, and around the house.

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

Reading how the flat rate boys feed their families enlightened me to the usefulness of the 1/4" drive. I never thought much about the quality of US made 1/4" sockets, no dimples. They would slide off more often than not. Then I got a set of Sierra metric. They had dimples. It was possible to make a 1/4" socket with dimples. What a revelation. I got a set of Gearwrench shallows and Tekton deeps, I like deeps that are fully broached. I also picked up a Gearwrench flex and a Tekton pivot . Of course after a couple of uses of the sockets, I had to get metric and SAE allenhead bit sockets.

 

[u2slow]

Need good overlap. Most of my wrenching is automotive... tight spaces needing smaller drives, and tight/rusted fasteners needing bigger drives.

I get lots of use out of 5/16" (or 8mm) deep on 3/8" drive. (u-joint straps)

I only bother with impact-grade for 1/2" and some 3/4".

 

[Mr Ratchet]

Hansen dictates my size overlap for the most part

Space constraints and torque requirements are the determining factors for drive size.
I use 5/8" or 15mm sockets on 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive. I use 1" sockets on my 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4" drive tools.

 

[BrandoJames]

My personal preferences:

Under 10mm = 1/4" drive

10mm-14mm = 3/8" drive (most common range on my two Toyotas & Ford Ranger).

15mm-Over = 1/2" drive

 

[bob15]

I've never understood why SK makes a 5/8" standard socket in 1/4" drive but deep well stops at 9/16".

Not sure I see the need for the 5/8 deep. Have a use for the 5/8 shallow though.

 

[bonneyman]

My guidelines:

Twice the drive size is the largest socket I'll use with force, even though there's often much larger sockets in the set. (On a stubby ratchet - or 3/8" in 1/4" body - it's a bit more). Though with 1/2" I'm OK going to 1 1/4".

Gotta say I've never had a ratchet knuckle shear off in all my years of wrenching.

 

[Squankum]

I'm with Mr. Ratchet -- I just try to fill my Hansen-style racks.

Sawed a few inches of one, once. Figured i'd never use 6 or 7mm in 3/8" drive. Took that Hansen to the junkyard in my toolbox one day and... yes, I needed something that small.

As for what I use when, depends on how heavy duty it is. I'm liking 1/4" drive more lately. Depends on the clearances and forces. I tend not to get into 1/2" stuff with a ratchet anymore, not until say, 19mm and above. Most things that big are getting an air tool lately.

 

[littlebean]

thanks for all the answers - work on a '67 beetle at home but work (paid) consists of rigging/running/fixing wind tunnels (from 0.5 metres per second up to Mach 12), newest of which dates back to the 80s...………..

 

[jgromada]

i think those Hansen socket holders are the worst thing imaginable! It makes you want to go out and buy all these size sockets that you'll need to fill out the rail. You may NEVER use them but the OCD in all of us makes us want to make sure there are no open posts on the Hansen socket holder.

 

[lardy1]

I don't have (or want) Hansen socket rails. But some thing about "full range" that flows so smoothly off the tongue. Specifically SK full range.

 

[JohnM45]

i think those Hansen socket holders are the worst thing imaginable! It makes you want to go out and buy all these size sockets that you'll need to fill out the rail. You may NEVER use them but the OCD in all of us makes us want to make sure there are no open posts on the Hansen socket holder.

Dang....I resemble that remark. I bought a set of SK 1/4" deep sockets for the sole purpose of filling that fricken' socket holder. And, wow, do they look NICE all polished and sitting there!!!

I did get them on sale for $90 bucks and it was the full set....13 pieces? I forget...either way, it filled that Hansen tray from left to right... They'll be very handy....for something....eventually....

 

[Squankum]

How to reduce the range of your Hansen socket organizer:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3304029&postcount=127

 

[geartow]

2'' go to 1 inch drive

 

[plinker]

Maximum sizing that they will sell me. 1/4 up to 15mm and 5/8 respectively. 3/8 up to 24mm and 1". IMO the metric 3/8 should go up to 27mm in standard shallow/deep sockets; since that would cover knock sensors very well, while also covering low torque and nut running larger suspension fasteners in restricted areas.

Pretty much this. Low torque applications for sensors, soft metal plugs & fittings and other such things is quite common and I would prefer not to use an adapter as it may not always fit as well as you'd think, even the low profile ones.

Using a smaller drive size to "nut run" a bolt in a cramped space is very common thing and plain out handy. A 27mm deep socket in 3/8 drive would have been very handy on a diesel I had to mess with a few weeks ago.

 

[sberry]

If I can I use 1/2,, as big as it's practical. So much easier.

 

[BlitzcrankJapan]

A 27mm deep socket in 3/8 drive would have been very handy on a diesel I had to mess with a few weeks ago.

These are available if you are open to buying proper professional tools. Not just tools that professional marketers sell.
Search Koken 3300M-27

 

[nelstomlinson]

IME when bolt diameter equals drive size is when you sometimes need to step up to the next size.

This is my rule, too: drive size should be close to bolt size, barring special circumstances.

 

[littlebean]

lots of good thoughts (most of which hadn't crossed my mind...……) so thanks to everyone who replied
only issue now is that i'm going to get some 1/4" drive stuff but at least I can blame it on GJ!

 

[californiaHank]

I resolve never to buy another 20mm socket, no matter what the length or drive size, no matter how many empty posts in my organizer.