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Ratchet lube

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BK13

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Mar 1, 2013
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Location
PDX, OR
Whatever I use has to be gluten free, hypoallergenic, organic, and kosher.

Seriously, there's like a million threads on this very subject.


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Know Wosad

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Joined
May 15, 2016
Messages
811
A quick Goofle landed me this one. It makes sense to get some before walking up those 3 steps to buy those damn ratchets too !
Multi-purpose. Both ends of the deal !
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Al Borland

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Jan 20, 2016
Messages
1,598
^^^ That's not right!!!^^^
Everybody knows you're supposed to use crunchy peanut butter.
 

sberry

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Jun 18, 2005
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Brethren, Michigan
I am just curious,,, what would someone expect to gain over the factory build process? Never lubed a ratchet except from a spray can of weasel pee.
 

Fedwrench

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Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Messages
14,952
Location
Valley of the sun
It's a personal preference. Try the search button for red lube of love (permatex engine assembly lube) super lube, or marvel mystery oil.

I think that high tooth count ratchets like thin lube while coarse tooth ratchet like it thicker.

You have to understand that there are people here that go to great lengths in the quest for the smoothest ratcheting action possible. There are some that even trim the spring on the pawl gear direction switch ball. :dunno:

I think it's funny that after making all of these modifications, and their lube of choice oozing out of the ratchet, their ratchet probably isn't any better than before they started. :lol:

Welcome to the Journal!!
 

Bierisch

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Joined
Sep 30, 2013
Messages
163
Location
San Antonio, Tx
I am just curious,,, what would someone expect to gain over the factory build process? Never lubed a ratchet except from a spray can of weasel pee.

I've never had a NEW ratchet, just used so when I get them I rip them apart and make sure everything is all good and while I'm there might as well lube up right?

All I have used.

super_lube_can.jpg
 

BK13

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Mar 1, 2013
Messages
2,692
Location
PDX, OR
I am just curious,,, what would someone expect to gain over the factory build process? Never lubed a ratchet except from a spray can of weasel pee.



I'm certainly no expert, but most of the new rats I have picked up have been pretty dry. They seem to smooth up a bit when I put a little Quantum fishing reel lube in them. If I did more work where I was around ATF I probably wouldn't bother. But most of what I use ratchets for it pretty dry/clean. Probably benefits my psyche more than the ratchets.


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TXNinAZ

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Joined
Oct 9, 2011
Messages
507
Location
Phoenix, AZ
I wouldn't recommend engine assembly lube on the high tooth Craftsman ratchet. Gums them up after a month and my 1/4 seized up after a few months. Was gifted some Moly Kote that works beautifully. Use it on vise screws and slides as well.
 

Empty Pockets

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Joined
Sep 21, 2015
Messages
4,942
Location
Rural New York
I've used engine assembly lube for as long as I have been cleaning and lubing ratchets. it's not uncommon for there to be a little bit weep out of the ratchet when done, but it works good for me.
 

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Hillbilly Joe

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Joined
Jun 30, 2016
Messages
4
Thanks for all the replies. I really like the forum. I just try to take care of my tools cause they take care of me. Say that should be on a Halmark card or something. No seriously I just ordered some Lubriplate so we will see.
 

finn

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Joined
Mar 27, 2005
Messages
16,208
Location
The UP, God's country
A tube of Superlube from Harbor Freight will last a long time.

It's probably the same stuff as synthetic plumber's grease which is available at the hardware store.
 

gdocktor3

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Apr 18, 2015
Messages
5,419
Location
Connecticut
I use vaseline and it works great. Especially on the unsealed heads because it helps keep water and other liquids out. When I need a break from the fam I tell my girl I'm going out to the garage to fix something, but really all I do is take a ratchet or two apart and lube it up. I'm being serious too...
 

sberry

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Joined
Jun 18, 2005
Messages
35,747
Location
Brethren, Michigan
I wouldn't recommend engine assembly lube on the high tooth Craftsman ratchet. Gums them up after a month and my 1/4 seized up after a few months. Was gifted some Moly Kote that works beautifully. Use it on vise screws and slides as well.
Its the pos ratchet, it would have seized anyway.
 

BK13

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Joined
Mar 1, 2013
Messages
2,692
Location
PDX, OR
I use vaseline and it works great. Especially on the unsealed heads because it helps keep water and other liquids out. When I need a break from the fam I tell my girl I'm going out to the garage to fix something, but really all I do is take a ratchet or two apart and lube it up. I'm being serious too...



And you don't get any funny looks when you head to the garage with a tub of Vaseline and a funny look on your face? LOL


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BFHtime

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Mar 31, 2012
Messages
983
Lucas engine oil.additive non-synthetic. I use this on all types of things. It is great in fine tooth ratchets. Try it once to see if you notice a difference. If you can't, then it is not for you.

I notice a difference even in lubed new rarchets.
 

gdocktor3

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Joined
Apr 18, 2015
Messages
5,419
Location
Connecticut
And you don't get any funny looks when you head to the garage with a tub of Vaseline and a funny look on your face? LOL

LOL. No, I keep a small a small prescription pill bottle in my tool box filled with it. I use it more often than not. Different seals, o rings, etc
 

Outlander

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Joined
Jul 30, 2010
Messages
5,154
Location
Quebec, Canada
LOL. No, I keep a small a small prescription pill bottle in my tool box filled with it. I use it more often than not. Different seals, o rings, etc

^^ this. I use it for the push-pins on my ATV (seats, plastics, windshield etc). It gets dirty though from dipping your finder in the pill bottle, so be careful about any private uses
 

F350

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Joined
May 13, 2009
Messages
110
x2 on Superlube. Used it on several used S-K ratchets and they turn beautifully.

You need lube that can stay in place, not liquid like oil.

One old ratchet I got had chassis grease in it. It moves, but it stinks bad. I took it apart and stripped all to bare metal, then lubed with Superlube. It moved so much better than that old smelly chassis grease.
 

Rickster55

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Joined
Jun 22, 2009
Messages
1,132
Location
Syracuse, NY
I've used engine assembly lube for as long as I have been cleaning and lubing ratchets. it's not uncommon for there to be a little bit weep out of the ratchet when done, but it works good for me.

:thumbup:
 

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Ctkelly

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Jun 11, 2016
Messages
59
Location
Iowa
My work uses 3 different grades of superlube, along with 3 other types of grade 2 grease. So I get to play around trying out different types when time allows. I have been partial to using Weapons Shield grease from George Fennell, creator of the original FP10 (not the shooters choice ****). At any rate, the oil and grease contain cinnamon...I greased all my drawer slides on my toolbox with it, what a nice scent every time I open a drawer. Works good in ratchets too.
 

Adam.C

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Jan 29, 2013
Messages
1,490
The key is not to grease gear teeth to "quiet" the ratchet. The reason ratchets ship almost dry is because that's what the manufacturers recommend. The great goes under the gear and a light smear under the face plate. Light oil like 3 in 1 should wet all components. The grease and the 3 in 1 must be compatible.
 

gdocktor3

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Apr 18, 2015
Messages
5,419
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Connecticut
The key is not to grease gear teeth to "quiet" the ratchet. The reason ratchets ship almost dry is because that's what the manufacturers recommend. The great goes under the gear and a light smear under the face plate. Light oil like 3 in 1 should wet all components. The grease and the 3 in 1 must be compatible.

I remember reading something about a Snap On dealer filled a ratchet with some lube or grease when he rebuilt it. So much so the excess poured out when he put the plate on. I will try to find it.

I use Vaseline when I rebuild mine. It is the same consistency of the grease that comes with the SK and Snap On rebuild kits. I've rebuilt nearly all my ratchets with Vaseline and had no problems. It is also a great water repellent.

Edit - post number 6 on this thread. Then later on another member says his driver uses air tool lubricant. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=194765
I remember when I was younger my father once told me "any oil is better than no oil" and I think that applies to ratchet rebuilds. No matter what you choose to use, anything is better than nothing. With that said, I feel an "oil" will dry out sooner than a "grease" and a "grease" will help unsealed ratchets keep unwanted liquids out.
 
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Adam.C

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1,490
No matter what you choose to use, anything is better than nothing. With that said, I feel an "oil" will dry out sooner than a "grease" and a "grease" will help unsealed ratchets keep unwanted liquids out.

No sir. When a ratchet becomes noticeably quieter after greasing, the ratchet is over greased. The click click click sound is the spring loaded pawl, snapping against the drive gear. That is a good sound. If that sound is deadened, then there is grease in the root of the drive gear preventing the pawl from fully engaging. This has 2 dire consequences:

1) It reduces the amount of contact between the pawl and the gear, increasing stress and wear on both parts and can lead to premature failure of the ratchet.

2) Because the pawl is not fully home, there may be an angular difference between the gear tooth and the face of the pawl that substantially reduces the contact patch between both parts even more.

Fine toothed ratchets are more sensitive to grease than coarser ratchets for 2 reasons:

a) The tooth to pawl contact patch is smaller so the % reduction will be greater (since the grease thickness probably remains the same)

b) The pawl spring is weaker, resulting in less squeeze out of the grease.

For unsealed ratchets, grease is a poor choice. Grease attracts contaminants. Particles are FAR more deleterious to ratchets than water intrusion.

SO: If you want a "smooth" feeling ratchet, buy a quality 100 tooth round head like the Snap On. Don't grease an otherwise decent ratchet to try to turn it into something it is not. Coarse ratchets should CLICK CLICK CLICK.

Grease is to be used UNDER the drive gear (between the body and the gear) to prevent wear of both and reduce friction while ratcheting. Oil alone will not stay in this location. Super Lube is what Snap On uses. They apply it VERY sparingly. Super Lube is petroleum jelly (Vaseline) with Teflon added.

The teeth should be lightly oiled with a light grade instrument oil (3 in 1 or lighter) to inhibit corrosion and reduce fretting.
 

zmotorsports

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Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,348
Location
Northern Utah
I use the Super Lube on the lower count teeth ratchets and the red Permatex Engine Assembly lube on the higher tooth count ratchets.

Mike.
 

PBCampbell

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Joined
Feb 2, 2009
Messages
871
Location
WV
I assumed you were being misleading about a grease product, which I'm pretty sure are considered true lubricating greases, not petroleum jelly(lol). It's also very unlikely that petroleum jelly would be listed on a MSDS simply because there would be no reason or requirement to do so. Lastly, the sheet you linked to is for a spray lubricant. Petroleum jelly would have to be chemically altered to be sprayed and would cease to be petroleum jelly. I'm guessing you aren't familiar with this company and it's products and are possibly making the assumption it's "snake oil". While they do sell to the general public, their products are more for certain niche industries involving food contact or environmental pollution concerns. Synco isn't the only lubricating company to use "Super Lube" as a product description either.
 
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