Ratchet question Duro/ Indestro

[alton1911]

I found this at a pawn shop I don’t usually go to, and thought I might be able to return it to working order. I got the mechanism working well but the friction ball is too shallow and will not fully extend. It’s 3/8 drive. Model 6272.
Question: Does anyone here have a source for parts?
I am pretty patient about things, so maybe I will happen upon another one for parts, but of my 70 or so ratchets it’s unique.




Thanks in advance,
alton1911

 

[four.cycle]

^ that's an odd duck you've got there.

I would have told you the kit number is 6272-8, but yours is completely different than the earlier design:



What are the patent numbers on that thing? I have to wonder if that's one of their later Roberts models.

I have no clue on how to get those detent balls working again. I've got an old 1/4" spinner that's got a stuck detent ball and there doesn't seem to be much hope for it. I've soaked it with MMO and fiddled around with it, but cannot get that ball to loosen up and pop back out.

Duro and Indestro ratchet repair kits are virtually non-existent, btw. The last ones I saw listed on Ebay were priced higher than the cost of another ratchet.
The older 6272 models (like mine above) are pretty common - you should be able to find one easily - right now the only two listed on Ebay are about $10 bucks too high - you should be able to find one for under $20 bucks including shipping.

 

[alton1911]

Two patents listed as pending. 3208318 and 4277990 I think. Little wear and bad eyes.
Thanks,
alton1911

 

[four.cycle]

patent 3208318 - Peter Roberts - granted 09/28/65

patent 4277990 - Roy Hall - applied 11/14/79 granted 07/14/81

which presumably puts yours somewhere between '79 and '81.

kind of odd that it has the Roberts patent number on it, because that patent is for a quick-release mechanism, which yours does not appear to have.

this catalog snip in which it appears shows the repair kit as a 6272-8 as well.
looks like Indestro changed the design of the ratchet, but continued to use the same part number for both the ratchet and the kit even though the early and later versions are completely different.

this snip is from a catalog that I previously believed was a 1982, but have since learned that it is not the 1982 catalog. I'm not sure if it's earlier or later, but it's definitely not 1982, as the 1982 catalog has the date printed on it.

 

[alton1911]

Thanks again amigo. I think the drive mechanism will be a good fit. I will give it a try.
alton1911

 

[woody 73]

Information on Mr. Roberts:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=352603

 

[bonneyman]

^ that's an odd duck you've got there.

I would have told you the kit number is 6272-8, but yours is completely different than the earlier design:



What are the patent numbers on that thing? I have to wonder if that's one of their later Roberts models.

I have no clue on how to get those detent balls working again. I've got an old 1/4" spinner that's got a stuck detent ball and there doesn't seem to be much hope for it. I've soaked it with MMO and fiddled around with it, but cannot get that ball to loosen up and pop back out.

Duro and Indestro ratchet repair kits are virtually non-existent, btw. The last ones I saw listed on Ebay were priced higher than the cost of another ratchet.
The older 6272 models (like mine above) are pretty common - you should be able to find one easily - right now the only two listed on Ebay are about $10 bucks too high - you should be able to find one for under $20 bucks including shipping.

I have one of these 6272 Indestro's. My favorite style of pear head ratchet. I did see a rebuild kit for it on ebay some time ago, new in box.

The OP's ratchet I've never seen before.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

On the detent balls, after a good soak, I grab them with a big (like 10 or 12") slip joint pliers cocked so one edge just grabs the ball, and the other is on a corner of the drive. This tends to add some spin to the ball, and is usually more effective in one direction than another.
Once it will move a bit, hold it 'ball up' and flood the dimple with penetrant or ???
squeeze down the ball, and some air will be expelled. As it comes up, more fluid is drawn into the bore. repeat til full. work it some more, leave for awhile, repeat. etc.
The idea is the rotation and hydraulic flow help eject debris and contaminates.
this works most of the time for me, but sometimes the spring is decayed and just doesn't push like it should.

 

[alton1911]

On the detent balls, after a good soak, I grab them with a big (like 10 or 12") slip joint pliers cocked so one edge just grabs the ball, and the other is on a corner of the drive. This tends to add some spin to the ball, and is usually more effective in one direction than another.
Once it will move a bit, hold it 'ball up' and flood the dimple with penetrant or ???
squeeze down the ball, and some air will be expelled. As it comes up, more fluid is drawn into the bore. repeat til full. work it some more, leave for awhile, repeat. etc.
The idea is the rotation and hydraulic flow help eject debris and contaminates.
this works most of the time for me, but sometimes the spring is decayed and just doesn't push like it should.

Thank you. I will give it a try. It can’t hurt any. I hate to give up on it.
alton1911

 

[DadsTools]

If these other suggestions do not work, try drilling the stud out opposite the ball and replace the spring from behind, sealing the hole with a slightly oversize brass press-in plug. Just repaired a broken spring on an old Wizard 1/2" rat. It was kind of a pain to do it, but the results were stellar, and a great old ratchet has been brought back to life. You can still search for a replacement core in the meantime.

The procedure I followed is posted here: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=383442