ratcheting breaker bar

[Hank McMauser]

Maybe I'm missing something here, but if you add a ratcheting mechanism to a breaker bar ,why not just use a ratchet to begin with?

 

[trboxman]

It's not just you.

 

[diesel research]

I am pretty sure if you look at the beef of a breaker (w/ratcheting mechanism) you will notice a major difference.

I am sure you will equally not the difference in flex/pivot strength/location....

At one point in time ratchets were not commonly available this long. Now that they are a little more common, they are still quite pricey.

Keep turning wrenches, you will find a use...

 

[GRX]

Seems like a redundant tool to me. A ratcheting system will not be strong as a good breaker bar.
I stated a thread on breaker bars if you are interested.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=133951

 

[geologist]

Rule of thumb:

If you can't break it loose with one hand (with your ratchet), you need to be using a breaker bar. Your ratchets and knuckles will thank you for it.

 

[GRX]

Rule of thumb:

If you can't break it loose with one hand (with your ratchet), you need to be using a breaker bar. Your ratchets and knuckles will thank you for it.

Well said.

 

[jhelrey]

The Titan ratcheting breaker bar has done very well for me.

 

[kythri]

The Titan ratcheting breaker bar has done very well for me.

How has it been better than a real breaker bar?

Curious myself, because I posted the same question as the OP last week.

 

[diesel research]

How has it been better than a real breaker bar?

Curious myself, because I posted the same question as the OP last week.

Imagine baring over an engine, an application that has decently high resistance, does not get any looser with revolutions (hopefully) and still has some swing-arc limitations.

Of course you were using a 6pt on a crank bolt, so you dont have very many options as far as reindexing, forget about the fact it would be easier.

Now people can use 24" ratchets, but those are mostly tool truck only (think ez red and a few others are coming out with import versions) but I am sure that is too expensive for most.

I've done it for a long time with a regular breaker, and probably have cheated a few times with cheater-ratchet. Definitely not mandatory, but can make life a bit easier.

I recall another vehicle specific application, an S60 belt tensioner. Desirable to have a 24"tool, but my breaker's non rotating square forces the handle into some frame cross members. Using my shorter ratchet I could index the drive to the slight angle needed, but the length wasn't there, so it puts you out reaching in an awkward position.

Can think of plenty of other incidences where not having to re-index the tool every 45* might be a time saver, especially if having to use a 6pt.

 

[crewchief888]

"back in the day" a long 1/2 dr ratchet may be only 14"-15" long, many breaker bars were in the 18" range. a 24" breaker bar with a ratcheting attachment was the only way to ( sometimes) get enough leverage.

 

[GRX]

Very true, diesel research. Few know that one can get 12 clock positions from a 6-point socket, and 24 from 12-point. My point has always been, is the internal ratcheting mechanism as strong as a breaker bar? And does using said ratchet instead wear the mechanism?

 

[diesel research]

I am willing to bet the 1/2" drive square itself is the weak link when dealing with a bulky and usually course tooth (often around 20 something tooth)

In a standard breaker bar the roll pin or forks are the weak link, and likely failed people before the supposed 375ft-lb torque limit of the import ratcheting types. I know my non ratcheter is screaming and flexing well before it hits 300, because I still have to lean into the torque wrench a considerable distance before hitting target torque.

What about 3/4 and 1" ratchets (or ratcheting torque wrenches going up past 600ft-lbs)? Don't suppose those ag/truck guys are being delicate with them just because the tools have gears in them, do ya?

They can take more because they have bigger teeth than a regular ratchet. Like wise, so do these. Not as big as a 1" drive, but larger than a regular 1/2.

 

[Bikes&Bowties]

Why is it that in tools the courser (lower tooth count) ratchets are considered stronger than the finer (higher tooth count) ratchets? Where in automotive a higher tooth shaft (input/output, axle shaft etc) are considered much stronger.

 

[Bikes&Bowties]

I've never broke a ratchet and I've never used a breaker bar. And I have used cheaters, up to like 3 ft long cheaters.... Can't tell a difference in strength between dual 80, matco 88, craftsman slim profile, older Mac, cman raised panel, older thorson USA. They have all held up.

 

[rlb1953]

I keep a breaker bar ratchet in my "travel box". I do it to save space in the box.

I have 3/8" sockets in the smaller sizes, 1/2" in the bigger. Then I use a 3/8" ratchet, a 1/2" breaker bar, and a breaker ratchet.

 

[apexit1]

I've never broke a ratchet and I've never used a breaker bar. And I have used cheaters, up to like 3 ft long cheaters.... Can't tell a difference in strength between dual 80, matco 88, craftsman slim profile, older Mac, cman raised panel, older thorson USA. They have all held up.

Before I had a decent set of tools my little brother called me to help him change his tire. Not having a breaker I took a 3/8 SK ratchet jack and a socket set. The wheel was on there pretty good. Took a lot of strength on the ratchet but it snapped. The casing around the gears actually cracked in my hand. Not sure how you haven't broken a ratchet using a 3' breaker bar.

 

[ishiboo]

Before I had a decent set of tools my little brother called me to help him change his tire. Not having a breaker I took a 3/8 SK ratchet jack and a socket set. The wheel was on there pretty good. Took a lot of strength on the ratchet but it snapped. The casing around the gears actually cracked in my hand. Not sure how you haven't broken a ratchet using a 3' breaker bar.

Perhaps because a 1/2" ratchet would have been appropriate there, not a 3/8?

 

[ishiboo]

Ratcheting breaker bars are great, it has the length of a breaker bar with the function of a ratchet. Often times the ratchet is plenty strong, but you can't get enough torque without a cheater or killing yourself to break something loose.

The #1 advantage to me is indexing, plus sometimes bolts are so stuck they are a pain to get out the entire way, not just loosening. If it's super stuck and you need something to depend on, go with a regular breaker bar, but for most things a ratcheting one will work fine and be more convenient.

 

[kythri]

What's "tooth count" on these things? Would I be correct in assuming that these are far fewer teeth than actual ratchets?

 

[ohmfab]

I use a racheting adapter on my breaker bar occasionally. They come in handy when you are working under a car that is on jackstands and need the extra leverage of the breaker bar but only have limited room to swing it up and down. If there is room I use the ratchet adapter on the bar and it saves time from me having to reposition the socket and find a good angle.

Without a ratchet adapter 12 point sockets would also help, but with the torque being applied with a breaker bar I always try to use 6 point sockets to avoid rounding off fasteners.

Omer

 

[Bikes&Bowties]

Before I had a decent set of tools my little brother called me to help him change his tire. Not having a breaker I took a 3/8 SK ratchet jack and a socket set. The wheel was on there pretty good. Took a lot of strength on the ratchet but it snapped. The casing around the gears actually cracked in my hand. Not sure how you haven't broken a ratchet using a 3' breaker bar.

Well I don't count parts store china ****. But I've broke breaker bars (other people's, using 3/8 where I would have used 1/2 or an impact) but china **** doesn't count really. Ive actually used matco and snap on 3/8 flexheads to break lose lug nuts on pickups... With no problems... I assume you ratchet had casting flaws or had been hammered on... The body shouldn't shatter lol