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[woodersen]

ok ive been juggling different quotes for my shop. from steel frame building to wood frame building. lean-to or not, concrete seperate, price to erect the building, how to unload the building how much saved to pick up the building etc. been planning for about a year. i have a contractor who quoted me and i think hes going to get the job. i wanted to get opinions before i pull the trigger. i am in texas, about 1 hour outside of houston. (coastal county, , remember for steel building must get windstorm certified if u want it delivered - that weighed heavily on my decision)

30x50x12 wood frame
26 ga siding and roof.
(4) sky lights
(1) 10x12 roll up door
(1) 8x8 roll up door
(2) solid walk in doors
(1) toilet
(1) sink
1 ft perimeter beam on concrete, 22-24 inches deep., 4 inch slab, #3 rebar every 18 inches.
20 loads of dirt, 12 yards per load.
water and septic provided to the building
electricity provide to the building with 6 outlets, and lights hung (i buy the fixtures)
30x75 slab.
the first 15ft of the slab is a drive up/extension from my current driveway.....then 50ft long building then a 10ft lean-to (concrete) that is 30ft wide (the width of the building)

this is i guess what you would call a "turn key"

28,500 cash.

your thoughts.

 

[STANIMAL]

That seems like a deal. I got quoted $15K for two car garage . About 400 sqft.

 

[Shrimp92]

Sounds to good to be true. I am in the process of building a wood frame, brick 40x50 with a 20ft roof extension on one side. I am contracting everything out except interior stuff, sheathing, insulation, and sheetrock. I hope I can keep mine under 60k. Cost of living is relatively cheap where I live as well...

 

[BD1]

What's your location ???? That sounds too good to be true !!!!!

 

[hillbill9889]

It does sound to good to be true. I did a 38 x 40 and came out at a little over $45k once all was said and done.

 

[woodersen]

South of houston. I havent signed the actual contract, should do that this weekend. So i havent seen a total break down on price, but i do know that 12yards of sand (1 load) is 100 per load. The concrete lean-to is 7.50/sq ft or 5.50/sqft without concrete, anysize you chose. I have to upgrade to concrete for $2/sqft because i dont think i can put lime stone down that cheap. I will post progress pics as they come. But im ready to seal the deal.

 

[STANIMAL]

Make sure you have a solid contract and the municipal inspections are properly carried out. Good luck and keep us posted .

 

[kingston123]

I think how much saved to pick up the building is looking good quote.

 

[Shocker]

Um, what?

 

[tomroblee]

It sounds like a good to great price---depending on details.

I had a 36' x 48' ten foot ceiling pole barn build several years ago. As I recall the builder priced it at about $18,000 with a 4" concrete floor, an 18' wide overhead door, a 10' wide overhead door, and a man door. That was for a no frills building. By the time I upgraded to a overhang on all side, gutters, two color metal, a roof extention over the man door, commercial insulated doors, etc the price increased about 50%. I don't know about your part of the country, but the builders in my area always want to quote the lowest possible price. It's like pulling teeth to get the price for what you really want.

 

[woodersen]

ok folks i just signed the contract. it was a tad bit more than originally quoted. but i added some things. here is a break down

building size 30x50x12.
30x12 roof extension (concrete slab)
30x15 concrete approach
engineered truses with 3:12 pitch at 5' on center
all purlines 2x4 at 36 inch on center
all wall girts 2x4 at 27 inch on center
(2) walk in doors
(1)10 tall x 12 wide roll up and (1) 8x8 roll up
6x6 treated columns buring 3 feet in ground
26 gauge roof and walls
total clearance from bottom of trusses to top of concrete 11ft 3 inch
4 inch thick slab with beams as per sketch
#3 rebar and .06 mil poly moisture barrier
smooth finish inside building, broom finish on lean-to and drive up

plumbing - water supply to front of building and back of building , installaton of sink and toilet to be purchased by owner

septic pluming to septic tank

electrical - installation of 6 wall outlets (110) and 1 (220v) and installation of 4 light fixtures provided by owner

4 sky lights 4x8

included all dirt and dirt work.

framed/formed ramp on the 8x8 door

framed/formed steps out of the back walk in door to the lean to

4ftx4ft pads for lift posts , 8 inch thick slab for lift post areas.

done , complete turn key..walk in, turn on lights....flush toilet, wash hands when done........

30k cash.

your thoughts?

 

[woodersen]

Forgot....it translate to $20/sq ft for building only.....or if u calculate the drive up and roof extension, its roughly $13.33/sq ft

 

[BD1]

Awesome !! That price is great. I hope all goes well, good luck.

 

[48fordnut]

Let us know about progress.I would have put a shower stall. Wish i had in my shop.Where do you live?

 

[jwhcars]

People if you would READ the thread you would know that he is about one hour outside of Houston Texas.

 

[rburke65]

Dah......where are you located?

 

[woodersen]

lolol

 

[jwhcars]

Look above my post count.

 

[daviomaron]

I will post progress pics as they come. But im ready to seal the deal.

 

[woodersen]

Anyone else....

 

[Modifieddriver]

Our climates and codes are probably similar.

At $20 per sq. ft. with all you mention I'd sign the contract too. My quote for a building is $4.50 per sq. ft. less than yours, but I'm less electric and plumbing.

The design of your building is very similar to what my wife and I are going to have a 40'x90'x12' built in a month or two. We will have 3,600 sq. ft. under roof and 3,200 enclosed. I'll have more doors an interior wall and larger concrete aprons. 29 gauge, not 26 gauge, but I will have full 3" vinyl backed insulation in malls and ceiling. I also get gutters that help trim out the eave side of the building

I like the computer pics of you building. Is there an online site that you used to generate that? If so, could you please give me the address?

Is the septic tank included in your price? If so, what size tank will they install? I need to do the calculations for one that'll be low use.

Only thing I think you should add, is more electric outlets and lights and delete the leak prone skylights. I thought about the same, but my builder highly recommended against it, which makes perfectly good common sense when you have a break in the roofing.

The price normally goes down per sq. ft. as you get larger. So, I'd say what you're going to pay is a good deal. As with anything, as you get going, you'll probably add a few more extras that'll add. From previous experience, do it now, not later. Because later never seems to happen, if ya' know what I mean.

 

[readhead]

Sounds to cheap to me. Did you get any referances? Has he already asked to money? On the other hand it could be a great deal. Proceed with caution and don't pay for more than you have built.

 

[woodersen]

Our climates and codes are probably similar.

At $20 per sq. ft. with all you mention I'd sign the contract too. My quote for a building is $4.50 per sq. ft. less than yours, but I'm less electric and plumbing.

The design of your building is very similar to what my wife and I are going to have a 40'x90'x12' built in a month or two. We will have 3,600 sq. ft. under roof and 3,200 enclosed. I'll have more doors an interior wall and larger concrete aprons. 29 gauge, not 26 gauge, but I will have full 3" vinyl backed insulation in malls and ceiling. I also get gutters that help trim out the eave side of the building

I like the computer pics of you building. Is there an online site that you used to generate that? If so, could you please give me the address?

Is the septic tank included in your price? If so, what size tank will they install? I need to do the calculations for one that'll be low use.

Only thing I think you should add, is more electric outlets and lights and delete the leak prone skylights. I thought about the same, but my builder highly recommended against it, which makes perfectly good common sense when you have a break in the roofing.

The price normally goes down per sq. ft. as you get larger. So, I'd say what you're going to pay is a good deal. As with anything, as you get going, you'll probably add a few more extras that'll add. From previous experience, do it now, not later. Because later never seems to happen, if ya' know what I mean.

Thanks for the info.....so sky lights are prone to leaks? Why? The building will tie into my house septic system.....he provided the pictures. I took a picture of the pictures, with my phone. He said he has a program to design....i didnt get into details about that. But i will ask when they start work. I plan to take about 3 days off during the build to atleast learn and watch as they build.

 

[woodersen]

Sounds to cheap to me. Did you get any referances? Has he already asked to money? On the other hand it could be a great deal. Proceed with caution and don't pay for more than you have built.

He gave me 4 referrences. And said theres plenty more. I contacted those people and simply asked them to rate their experience from 1 to 10. 10 being the best. All of them rated a 10, said they have no regrets, workers were on time. And cleaned up after and everything was executed as described in the contract. I felt pretty good after contacting them. I paid 700 down to secure the contract and time slot for the work. 3 payments remain. The first 9300 when they show up. The next 10000 after the slab and structure is done and the final 10k when we walk thru on the last day. They are working about 100 miles out of their normal area so they will be staying in hotels down here,,,,and that might result in longer days or possibly overnight work to get it done to avoid hotel costs. (Im speculating on that). Ive worked out of hotels before......theres nothing to do but work, eat and sleep. So maybe thats a good thing. He quoted no more than 10 working days (weather permitting)

 

[Modifieddriver]

He gave me 4 referrences. And said theres plenty more. I contacted those people and simply asked them to rate their experience from 1 to 10. 10 being the best. All of them rated a 10, said they have no regrets, workers were on time. And cleaned up after and everything was executed as described in the contract. I felt pretty good after contacting them. I paid 700 down to secure the contract and time slot for the work. 3 payments remain. The first 9300 when they show up. The next 10000 after the slab and structure is done and the final 10k when we walk thru on the last day. They are working about 100 miles out of their normal area so they will be staying in hotels down here,,,,and that might result in longer days or possibly overnight work to get it done to avoid hotel costs. (Im speculating on that). Ive worked out of hotels before......theres nothing to do but work, eat and sleep. So maybe thats a good thing. He quoted no more than 10 working days (weather permitting)

Yeah, I know about that hotel deal working outa' town. Some years I'd spend 90-100 nights in a hotel room.

That working away from their home base can work out good for ya'.

They won't screw around and will get things done by being organized. But, just make sure it's DONE before they leave, 'cause it'll be hard to get them back.

Didn't ask the builder why skylights are leak prone. I just know if he has extensive experience with them. Said he'll do it and it'll cost me more and he'll make more $$$$$$, but in my best interest said don't. I'll trust faith in his judgment, he's smarter than I am.

Wish I could tie into my house septic, but distance and elevation won't allow it.

 

[woodersen]

Yeah, I know about that hotel deal working outa' town. Some years I'd spend 90-100 nights in a hotel room.

That working away from their home base can work out good for ya'.

They won't screw around and will get things done by being organized. But, just make sure it's DONE before they leave, 'cause it'll be hard to get them back.

Didn't ask the builder why skylights are leak prone. I just know if he has extensive experience with them. Said he'll do it and it'll cost me more and he'll make more $$$$$$, but in my best interest said don't. I'll trust faith in his judgment, he's smarter than I am.

Wish I could tie into my house septic, but distance and elevation won't allow it.

Interesting. I originally wanted the shop as far away from the house as the property allowed.....but that meant longer lines for water, elec, and septic, plus some sort of way to drive back there....thousands started adding up. I opted to have the building close to the house. Tie into water and septic...and get my elec off the septic. I have a 200amp service seperate from the house that only has the septic running off it......will tie into that.so instead of having the backyard between the house and shop......the backyard will be behind the shop.

 

[woodersen]

i whipped up a revised floor plan. the 4x8 table and lawn mower can be moved to essentially fit 4 cars in the shop. 30squares x 50 squares so each square = 1 ft.

your thoughts.....

 

[Modifieddriver]

Having that lift column next to the bench is gonna' be a pain, I can see that from here.

I'd either swap the lift location to the other side or swap the stuff against the right and left side walls. I think you'll be using that lift a lot less than you think.

You can always put a car or that chassis on it, put it up and store another car under it to gain space for a quick short-term project. I think you'd be best to invest in a second O/H door and put the personnel door between them or move it to a side entrance. You can always still push stuff, that'll roll, up against the 2nd O/H door. Make door #2 10'x10' so you'll still have several feet between the door jamb and the wall to put "stuff".

 

[woodersen]

Having that lift column next to the bench is gonna' be a pain, I can see that from here.

I'd either swap the lift location to the other side or swap the stuff against the right and left side walls. I think you'll be using that lift a lot less than you think.

You can always put a car or that chassis on it, put it up and store another car under it to gain space for a quick short-term project. I think you'd be best to invest in a second O/H door and put the personnel door between them or move it to a side entrance. You can always still push stuff, that'll roll, up against the 2nd O/H door. Make door #2 10'x10' so you'll still have several feet between the door jamb and the wall to put "stuff".

I follow. The 4x4 lift posts is for the concrete reinforcement. Not the actual lift posts...lift posts might be 2ft wide. I plan to use the maxjax portable lift. Im going with a 12 ceiling. Which would be 11'3 inch from concrete to truss. So most the time the lift wont be there. I cant add another door (well i can)...but wont make much sence because only 16ft of the 30ftwall will be open. The other 14ft will be behind my house. (15ft driveup refer to the contract description). In the area in front of the r/r (outside) i plan to put my bbq smoker. I need the lift in the back end of the shop so when i pull a body off the frame, i can roll the car forward right out of the shop, and leave body on lift.......kind of confusing....

 

[brownbagg]

nothing do with the quote but number three rebar is a joke, even the building codes stop using three, three are only used for stirups. thats a fancy term for rebar chair

 

[Nostraquedeo]

3/8" bar sounds a lot thicker than chairs. I'd do #4, but no need to discourage a person. Look at the price......obviously not gonna be built like Rome.

 

[woodersen]

#3 is 3/8 isnt it?