phartman
Well-known member
I am trying to paint some custom Glo-Brite lenses for my '61 Ford. Best primer? Best paint? Can't get it to stick to the plastic. Suggestions? Thanks.
Rattle can paint on plastics
- Thread starter phartman
- Start date
thdewey
Well-known member
Why not Krylon Fusion spray paint. Any walmart has it. It's made for plastic. I painted my faded jeep fenders with it. Seems to work well for me.
http://www.krylon.com/products/fusion_for_plastic/
Don't forget to post some pics.
http://www.krylon.com/products/fusion_for_plastic/
Don't forget to post some pics.
Piper
Well-known member
not to drive you away from this forum but here is another place that I hang out at.http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php
Excellent info and knowledge. Post your question or do a search and you'll get fantastic info.
Piper
Excellent info and knowledge. Post your question or do a search and you'll get fantastic info.
Piper
jayoldschool
Well-known member
+1 Krylon Fusion. I used it for my coolant tank and washer tank on my 95 SS, and they have held up well for a few years.
TheShrine
Well-known member
Go to East Wood. http://www.eastwood.com/
They have everything you need. They specialize in that kind of stuff. I used their products when I restored my cars.
They have everything you need. They specialize in that kind of stuff. I used their products when I restored my cars.
Aware of the Fusion, but didn't try that because I haven't seen the color I need (silver). The Glo Brite plastic is really slick. I roughed it up with sandpaper, but conventional paint just won't stick. Even tried self etching paint primer, but that doesn't seem to want to stick either. So maybe Fusion first, then conventional aluminum spray over it? Dunno.
mag99
Well-known member
Try "Bulldog" Adhesion promotor, it's in spray cans, and made to use on plastic. I've had good luck with it. There are some plastics that feel "oilly", they are very hard to get paint to stick to them.
Alsa paint corp. makes an adhesion promotor called "Plastick", I have not used it , though.
House of Kolor makes "Adhereto", but I have not used it either.
Alsa paint corp. makes an adhesion promotor called "Plastick", I have not used it , though.
House of Kolor makes "Adhereto", but I have not used it either.
mag99
Well-known member
We get the Bulldog at OReilly's Auto Parts. Never used any brush on chrome
http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=1&prodid=56
http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=1&prodid=56
e-tek
Well-known member
www.autobodystore.com is indeed a great site.
SEM is the plastic paint brand that is used in most autobody and upholstery shops for vinyl and plastic. You can get it at AB and Upholstery Supply stores. Mag99 is right - you need an adhesion promoter on anything you can't sand, but I also use even if I can sand it. Again, SEM has that too. The real key though is to properly clean any contaminants first. Again, SEM (I'd like to say there must be other brands...but I haven't seen any) has that too, called SEM soap.
First, clean the piece completely with the SEM soap and hot water. Then, use a 3M scuff pad (red=800grit) to sand it and get into nooks and crannies. Next, clean it with a pre-paint solvent, which removes any further contaminants introduced from your hands. Then use the adhesion promoter spray, followed by your color choice.
As for chrome paint, the spray chromes are OK, they have like a 50-60% of real chrome reflectivilty, but the chrome powdercoat is closest to the real deal. It gets applied over black and has about an 80% refectivity.
I also use a lot of Eastwoods stuff - they source and formulate a lot of cool stuff for resto's. Their Detail and Spray Greys are great for pot and cast metal. POR15's Manifold Grey is perfect for heavy cast pieces.
SEM is the plastic paint brand that is used in most autobody and upholstery shops for vinyl and plastic. You can get it at AB and Upholstery Supply stores. Mag99 is right - you need an adhesion promoter on anything you can't sand, but I also use even if I can sand it. Again, SEM has that too. The real key though is to properly clean any contaminants first. Again, SEM (I'd like to say there must be other brands...but I haven't seen any) has that too, called SEM soap.
First, clean the piece completely with the SEM soap and hot water. Then, use a 3M scuff pad (red=800grit) to sand it and get into nooks and crannies. Next, clean it with a pre-paint solvent, which removes any further contaminants introduced from your hands. Then use the adhesion promoter spray, followed by your color choice.
As for chrome paint, the spray chromes are OK, they have like a 50-60% of real chrome reflectivilty, but the chrome powdercoat is closest to the real deal. It gets applied over black and has about an 80% refectivity.
I also use a lot of Eastwoods stuff - they source and formulate a lot of cool stuff for resto's. Their Detail and Spray Greys are great for pot and cast metal. POR15's Manifold Grey is perfect for heavy cast pieces.
Rte66Charlie
Well-known member
+2 on Krylon Fusion - if you have an Ace Hardware store check with them, they have probably 5 - 6 times the color options on Fusion that Wal-Mart carries.
Two big challenges in making these custom tail light lenses:
1) Getting the paint to stick. Without the chrome or aluminum ring around the outer edge of the lens, it just doesn't look right.
2) Geez, Glo Brite lenses are incredibly brittle and are unbelievably difficult to cut or drill
Got it all figured out if I can just get the outer edge coated. I'll try the Fusion and if that doesn't work, try the Eastwood.
1) Getting the paint to stick. Without the chrome or aluminum ring around the outer edge of the lens, it just doesn't look right.
2) Geez, Glo Brite lenses are incredibly brittle and are unbelievably difficult to cut or drill
Got it all figured out if I can just get the outer edge coated. I'll try the Fusion and if that doesn't work, try the Eastwood.
JOHNMAN
Well-known member
The best way I have ever seen to get paint to stick to some plastics is to expose the plastic briefly to a FLAME. Not enough to ignite the plastic, just enough to heat the plastic and "open" the surface. Immediately prime the plastic before it cools.
Just be very careful of open flames around paint.
Just be very careful of open flames around paint.
mag99
Well-known member
mulepackin
Well-known member
I would try the heat trick, but with an electric heat gun instead of a torch.
I did the exact same thing with my Jeep, worked great.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Ditto on the "Adhesion Promoter". I use the Bulldog also. It's about like opening the pores up on the plastic to let the paint stick. I rattle canned the grille of my GMC Jimmy with black over a year ago and do not have a chip in it yet. I would venture to say that without sanding and without adhesion promoter that the paint would have come off months ago. It looks like factor black plastic but was Krylon BBQ Satin black paint.