Rattle can paint

[lardy1]

I'm refurbishing a pretty decent 4' X 8' two wheeled utility trailer I've acquired. New decking, new lighting and wiring, bearings inspected & maintained, etc. It's constructed of angle iron with an 8" diamond plate around the front and both sides.

I'd like to just wire wheel this thing and spray bomb it. I'm almost 67. I think it will outlast me. Can I get some suggestions for painting the rusty old thing? Maybe brush/roll rather than rattle can? A decent paint that's pretty readily available?

Thanks.

 

[driz]

I normally spray my stuff That said if you can get at all the surfaces I’d roll it with a brush and in the other hand keep a brush to chase the spot s you can’t get with the roller.
Use the little 1” 6”long roller. Then chase the rough if needed with the bush as needed. There may be some places you need to spray like hinges but for the rest that mini roller will blaze through it.
Use decent paint like tractor paint ( acrylic enamel). 2 coats always no longer than a day apart. If the surface is shiny you’re going to paint dull it with 220 sandpaper. Sand off the rust and prime where you sanded before topcoat. Good nuff


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[zendriver]

To alleviate “finger fatigue” you might want to look at those add-on can handle that you’re hold like a traditional spraygun uses the trigger

I want to get one for my next larger spray can job.

https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/5d...peg?odnWidth=2000&odnHeight=2000&odnBg=ffffff


The inexpensive black paint from the farm stores works fine




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[Los_Control]

Not sure if a quart would be enough, but at tractor supply you can buy a gallon of oil base enamel paint for $35
A decent rattle can paint gets spendy, I like the rustoleum 2x rattle can from Ace hardware, a can does not go very far painting large areas, and is pretty thin. Then your finger will get tired and sore from pushing the button.

I suggest the oil base enamel from tractor supply. I am painting the underside of my dodge truck with a brush, frame, straight axle etc and it looks just fine. It lays down pretty flat a few brush marks.
On your trailer the larger flat surfaces, I would use a foam roller. and brush the corners.
The brush does put it on pretty thick, I like that for the frame, axle and core support etc.
I will spray the exterior panels and not roll it. I also use a reducer to thin it while paint thinner is fine, and I buy a universal hardener from napa to mix in with it ... thats for the stuff we see though.
The frame is straight up paint and a brush. Frame is very dusty and needs washed in photo.

 

[Davefr]

I'm refurbishing a pretty decent 4' X 8' two wheeled utility trailer I've acquired. New decking, new lighting and wiring, bearings inspected & maintained, etc. It's constructed of angle iron with an 8" diamond plate around the front and both sides.

I'd like to just wire wheel this thing and spray bomb it. I'm almost 67. I think it will outlast me. Can I get some suggestions for painting the rusty old thing? Maybe brush/roll rather than rattle can? A decent paint that's pretty readily available?

Thanks.

Go to a farm store and buy this. It's excellent quality. It dries very slowly and that gives it plenty of time to level out so it looks like it was sprayed on. It's way cheaper then automotive paints.

I don't know if a hardener can be added. Maybe someone else will know.

Make sure you use a good quality brush made for enamels
or roll it on.

It's my experience that rattle can paints are too thin for doing large areas and they tend to look blotchy. (also expensive)

 

[zendriver]

Lol it’s a 4‘ x 8‘ flatbed trailer.

By six spray cans and you might end up taking two of them back unused.


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[lardy1]

LOL. The deck will be raw treated lumber. No surface coating.

 

[XJSuperman]

I mean........if you wanted to do it well, then I suggest POR15 and topcoat. Its much more durable than any paint youll buy at the hardware store and it will prevent rust completely. You can hammer on it or drop chains, etc on it and not have it chip or flake.

But it'll cost you more. It goes on with a roller or a brush easy, though they do sell very very expensive rattle cans, but they spray pretty thin compared to brushing it on. POR literally stands for Paint Over Rust. Scuff and paint. I use it on everything I can.

 

[WinMod21]

Did pretty much the same thing you're wanting to do. Used my Dewalt 4 1/2" angle grinder with wire wheels & scotchbright type discs at all the rusty areas which—aside from all the dust and having to wear goggles, commercial type face mask w/the two filters for fine dust/paint &c, and coveralls—worked nicely.
I then hand sanded with varying grits; blew it off; wiped it down with acetone and tack clothes; then primered it with Rust-OLeum self-etching primer spray cans (using the Rust-OLeum spray can pistol-grip trigger thingamajig, suggested above in post #3 & below by @zendriver), before painting it with the Rust-OLeum 'Hammered' spray paint cans, both purchased on sale @ Meijer.
It actually turned-out so nice....that I've kept it in the garage for the last 4 years without ever using it. Cuz it's soooo BEAUTIFUL !

It's a square-tube frame w/diamond-plate deck.

Here's a pic at the seller's res the day I bought it, and a couple after the sanding & painting:

 

[WinMod21]

To alleviate “finger fatigue” you might want to look at those add-on can handle that you’re hold like a traditional spraygun uses the trigger

I want to get one for my next larger spray can job.
https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/5d...peg?odnWidth=2000&odnHeight=2000&odnBg=ffffff
The inexpensive black paint from the farm stores works fine

That's ^^^ what I used and it worked great !

 

[Los_Control]

Lol it’s a 4‘ x 8‘ flatbed trailer.

By six spray cans and you might end up taking two of them back unused.


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With 8" tall diamond plate sides, inside and outside surfaces, a tongue, I assume will be a tailgate of some sort added. .... Does the gentleman want to paint frame and axle?
I dunno, but going through extra time to make it look nice. If a decent rattle can cost $5 each, would be over $30 for paint, it would be a very poor and thin paint job. Poor old guy's finger would be tore up from spraying 6 cans of paint. Rub you wife slippers across it and the paint would rub off.

Same time could have bought a gallon for same money, use 1/2 or less and extra for another project or for future touch up., will have thicker paint that will last longer against scrapes and scratches. I use $1 paint brushes from the dollar store and throw them away when done. Foam rollers are more, but I keep a few around ... also a hvlp spray gun is only $15 from harbor freight.

All the old model T's were brush painted from the factory, Good enough for Henry is good enough for me.

 

[lardy1]

I should have posted the picture in the original.

Anyway....I think it's going to be done by brush. I'm a retired Able Seaman. Not like I've never brushed paint on steel. I'm not sure why I even thought about rattle cans. I painted a pickup crossover tool box one time. It came out very nice. But it took a lot of paint cans and a lot of time. Brain fart.

 

[Rickster]

RustOleum Turbo!! Large spray cans. Check it out on you tube.

 

[Los_Control]

To bad you were not closer, I would pour ya a 1/2 gallon of gloss black for free. You might be able to get away with a quart on that. My truck is originally black, back in the day, the factory painted right over bare metal. Is called DTM paint Direct to metal. I bought a gallon of gloss black from Ace hardware, then later read the instructions and it is not recommended to use on bare metal. So I went to tractor supply and bought another gallon their paint is recommended for DTM. And that is why I recommend them.
In your case, it really does not matter, you already have paint and just freshening it up. A quart of rustoleum from local hardware may work.

 

[zendriver]

I should have posted the picture in the original.



Anyway....I think it's going to be done by brush. I'm a retired Able Seaman. Not like I've never brushed paint on steel. I'm not sure why I even thought about rattle cans. I painted a pickup crossover tool box one time. It came out very nice. But it took a lot of paint cans and a lot of time. Brain fart.

I forgot about the diamond plate. Good call


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[Los_Control]

Paint it red I once had to sit through a lead abatement class and get certified to remove lead from a house.
What I found interesting, lead paint is bad in a house because the lead has a sweet flavor and children will pick at it and eat it.
For commercial projects lead paint is still used today. San Francisco bridge, you have a couple painters that start from one end and paint to the other, takes about a year, at that point they just go back to the beginning and start over. But the lead in the paint helps it last as long as it does ... elevator shafts and high rise buildings still use lead paint ... It is used all the time today.

Back in the day, they learned that more lead mixed in a paint and the stronger ... longer it would last.
And red paint was the one they could mix in the most lead and not distort the color. It would last the longest.

Thats why all these old barns we love to look at were painted red ... Not because they thought red looked best, was because the paint lasted longest.

So my instructor told me. Take it for what is worth.

 

[joshmodelskidoo]

$10 hf spray gun and a gallon of tractor paint or rustolium

 

[Shiftless]

I used this on new structural steel. Wiped off with acetone and brushed on 3 coats of this. Excellent stuff. And EZ water clean up.

 

[LXCam]

I used a 6” course scotchbright wheel on my 7” angle grinder for the rust prep and 6 cans of satin black krylon. Start to finish 6hrs.

 

[d.mcfarland]

Strongly do not recommend Rustoleum STOPS RUST. Some of their other lines are ok, but that particular line your will absolutely hate the finished product.The Krylon and Dupli-color brands seem to be better in my opinion.

Overall, it may be cheaper and easier to buy a $10 Harbor Freight paint gun and a container of paint. Finished product might be better and you potentially could save some cash.

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

Strongly do not recommend Rustoleum STOPS RUST. Some of their other lines are ok, but that particular line your will absolutely hate the finished product.The Krylon and Dupli-color brands seem to be better in my opinion.

Overall, it may be cheaper and easier to buy a $10 Harbor Freight paint gun and a container of paint. Finished product might be better and you potentially could save some cash.

I have always had good luck with that paint but that’s just my opinion I painted an old metal outside toy that I had when I was a kid painted it the same color and it still has held up and that was 5 years ago I painted it with the rust oleum stop rust paint.


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[seber]

Paint it red I once had to sit through a lead abatement class and get certified to remove lead from a house.
What I found interesting, lead paint is bad in a house because the lead has a sweet flavor and children will pick at it and eat it.
For commercial projects lead paint is still used today. San Francisco bridge, you have a couple painters that start from one end and paint to the other, takes about a year, at that point they just go back to the beginning and start over. But the lead in the paint helps it last as long as it does ... elevator shafts and high rise buildings still use lead paint ... It is used all the time today.

Back in the day, they learned that more lead mixed in a paint and the stronger ... longer it would last.
And red paint was the one they could mix in the most lead and not distort the color. It would last the longest.

Thats why all these old barns we love to look at were painted red ... Not because they thought red looked best, was because the paint lasted longest.

So my instructor told me. Take it for what is worth.

Your instructor should go back to history class. Barns were red because rust inhibits mold and fungus on wood. It was used long before paint. When paint was developed red was already the traditional color for barns.

 

[mrjaw14]

what primer are you guys using on metal? I'm about to do a trailer and have been wondering the same thing as the op

 

[blazemaster83]

I have also had really good results with rustoleum topside marine coating. I would not spray a trailer with rattle can.

 

[lardy1]

what primer are you guys using on metal? I'm about to do a trailer and have been wondering the same thing as the op

I cleaned it up the best I could with a wire wheel in my angle grinder and some hand brushing then saturated it today with Flood Penetrol. I had been looking for a reason to try it at one time and this seemed like the time. I'm just using Rustoleum gloss black cut with the Penetrol and a brush for a finish.

 

[Ralf11]

the primer is important...

 

[HarrisFD]

I mean........if you wanted to do it well, then I suggest POR15 and topcoat. Its much more durable than any paint youll buy at the hardware store and it will prevent rust completely. You can hammer on it or drop chains, etc on it and not have it chip or flake.

But it'll cost you more. It goes on with a roller or a brush easy, though they do sell very very expensive rattle cans, but they spray pretty thin compared to brushing it on. POR literally stands for Paint Over Rust. Scuff and paint. I use it on everything I can.

That’s exactly What I did with my 16’ flatbed. Hit it with a cup wire brush on my makita grinder, Brushed on por-15 black, Then used about 5 cans of rustoleum satin black rattle cans as a topcoat, replaced wood, used oil based deck stain. It’s been over 2 years and it still looks great.

 

[Gummi Bear]

I built a 4x6 earlier this year, to use around the Farm.

I used tractor paint, rolled the large areas, and used spray can to get the areas my roller wouldn’t go. I used a 6” sponge roller. It was pretty easy.

I left it in the shop for a week for the paint to harden.








I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately...

Henry David Thoreau

 

[Gummi Bear]

what primer are you guys using on metal? I'm about to do a trailer and have been wondering the same thing as the op

I’m not a paint and body guy, just putting a protective coat on my stuff, so take that into consideration


I wipe down my surface with acetone on a rag, then use self etching primer over the bare metal. I get spray cans from HD. I used 3 cans on my trailer project




12 oz. Self Etching Gray Primer Spray

https://www.homedepot.com/p/202097278



I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately...

Henry David Thoreau

 

[theoldwizard1]

what primer are you guys using on metal? I'm about to do a trailer and have been wondering the same thing as the op

Good question ! Some people swear by "self etching primer" on aluminum. How about on steel ?

 

[d.mcfarland]

Good question ! Some people swear by "self etching primer" on aluminum. How about on steel ?

Self etching primer can be used on any bare metal I believe. You can then go straight to base coat or use high build primer if looking to fill imperfections.

 

[Jlarson]

I use a lot of that greyish self etching primer too, makes for a good finish.

 

[driz]

Good question ! Some people swear by "self etching primer" on aluminum. How about on steel ?

Sure, it’s used in body shops everywhere every day.
The key to ALL of this is getting rid of ALL THE RUST. It’s about impossible with pitting but you need the best you can do especially if you live in the Rust Belt.


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[lardy1]

Here it is after paint. As I said above, I used Flood Penetrol to seal the rust and I'm reading that that is also a solid primer. I cut plain old Rustoleum gloss black with the Penetrol and brush painted two coats.

I have to mount the safety chains yet and wire the new lights. I went with all new hubs, races and bearings. There are two new tires & rims somewhere in shipping and a hitch rebuild kit. New treated two by something or other deck attached with Teks screws. I pulled this rusty old hulk out of the weeds at my girlfriends place we are emptying to sell. I've put about $250.00 into it and it should be a solid little light duty trailer for the rest of my life.



Something to keep an old man busy.