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rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

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rattle_snake

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Continuing to break down the old ford. I think tailgate and toolbox were the last few bolts I had not touched. Almost done with primary sanding. Got all the cab seams sealed. Wish I would have had self leveling for drip rail but made what I had work. Have some clean up to do once dry enough to work.
jn96ZaFF0-IixV3dpZyY_kyW3h=w591-h787-no?authuser=0.jpg

Trying to align where in the process all the different panels are. As I learn and improve I bring then all up to the same quality/level. Finish prep of all the jams and put etch on as needed. Then put down some 1k high build over repairs.
Tailgate was pretty beat up from years of use and abuse, so I turd polished a few areas. My outdoor workbench happens to be same tailgate.
ErVtyG5w7zRAQVxkscrPg3gO0=w1050-h787-no?authuser=0.jpg

With cab, bed and panels almost ready for sealer, it was time to remove the bed to access back of cab. I welded e-brake mount to bed so had to remove cables, will cut that off and do properly on frame. But bed was off quick and easy with lift.
AZNJBqN6h2i00eAuC8oPEZGoOu=w591-h787-no?authuser=0.jpg

Just a quick down and dirt paint job he said...
With bed off I can re-do the fuel system. Move lines to left frame rail, away from exhaust to address fuel boiling in tank issue. What's one more little project?
pb0PoGL-0H0ltu7zZ9LOYkcPX=w1050-h787-no?authuser=0.jpg

Plan to clean and rattle can underside of bed, then set it on my fab table with wheels. Then I can move it around and paint on it. center bay is big enough to park truck and still work the parts and pieces.
6mOitNEQFLa75x6akkzYhmkcZ=w1050-h787-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
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PugetDude

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Justin, had a coworker who used to say the worst thing you can do in a tight spot is back up…you’re certainly providing empirical evidence to support his claim on this paint job.
Looking good, though!
Scott
 

demetri94

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Continuing to break down the old ford. I think tailgate and toolbox were the last few bolts I had not touched. Almost done with primary sanding. Got all the cab seams sealed. Wish I would have had self leveling for drip rail but made what I had work. Have some clean up to do once dry enough to work.
jn96ZaFF0-IixV3dpZyY_kyW3h=w591-h787-no?authuser=0.jpg

Trying to align where in the process all the different panels are. As I learn and improve I bring then all up to the same quality/level. Finish prep of all the jams and put etch on as needed. Then put down some 1k high build over repairs.
Tailgate was pretty beat up from years of use and abuse, so I turd polished a few areas. My outdoor workbench happens to be same tailgate.
ErVtyG5w7zRAQVxkscrPg3gO0=w1050-h787-no?authuser=0.jpg

With cab, bed and panels almost ready for sealer, it was time to remove the bed to access back of cab. I welded e-brake mount to bed so had to remove cables, will cut that off and do properly on frame. But bed was off quick and easy with lift.
AZNJBqN6h2i00eAuC8oPEZGoOu=w591-h787-no?authuser=0.jpg

Just a quick down and dirt paint job he said...
With bed off I can re-do the fuel system. Move lines to left frame rail, away from exhaust to address fuel boiling in tank issue. What's one more little project?
pb0PoGL-0H0ltu7zZ9LOYkcPX=w1050-h787-no?authuser=0.jpg

Plan to clean and rattle can underside of bed, then set it on my fab table with wheels. Then I can move it around and paint on it. center bay is big enough to park truck and still work the parts and pieces.
6mOitNEQFLa75x6akkzYhmkcZ=w1050-h787-no?authuser=0.jpg
Very cool build, you do really nice work.
 
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rattle_snake

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I love where this is going, you do excellent work. But there is a part of me that would want to just jump in it as it sits and go blasting out into the desert.
:3gears:
:beer:
Thanks Trapps. Yes same thoughts. I couldn't resist driving it around, and reason seat is still in it. The lighter it gets the less traction is has!
Would be a whole different experience in the dunes with this much weight reduction. Or any off road trail for that matter.
Just add lightness.
bad ***! Nice job. 🍻
Thanks. OCD is a ***** though. Have to fill 10 holes on back of cab that will never been seen, well because.
You're in deep...
yes past the uncomfortable depth. Building chassis was deeper still I guess. Somehow that all got done.
🤔
Justin, had a coworker who used to say the worst thing you can do in a tight spot is back up…you’re certainly providing empirical evidence to support his claim on this paint job.
Looking good, though!
Scott
Thanks Scott. Eventually there well be no more virgin bolts or screws to remove then forward it is.
It is nice to work on a rust free survivor instead of a vehicle that had been half-*** hot rodded 3 times. Even at 50 years the fasteners just come right off many never touched. This truck was never hit and has all original panels and trim. Just minor damage from decades of work.
Very cool build, you do really nice work.
Thanks! Glad I have a nice shop to do it in now. Looking forward to having shiny painted panels to reinstall.
 

lilscorpion

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Thanks. OCD is a ***** though. Have to fill 10 holes on back of cab that will never been seen, well because.
the project isn't about what others see. If you're like me, you're doing it because you know they'll be back there and THAT is 100 times worse if they're left unfinished and someone were to see them unfinished.

What you're doing is next level $hit.
 
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WoodsTruck

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When I rebuilt my Bronco I had all the items off it that would unbolt. Even in 4WD it was unsafe to drive. Trust me, I tried!
 
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rattle_snake

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the project isn't about what others see. If you're like me, you're doing it because you know they'll be back there and THAT is 100 times worse if they're left unfinished and someone were to see them unfinished.

What you're doing is next level $hit.
Thanks. Coming from Mr. next level powder coat, I'll just agree.
;)
Seeing some of your work makes me feel better about the situations I get myself into.

But then I started closely inspecting the bed now that it is off the frame.
Found one wheel well that I didn't weld the trim holes shut in. Cant really see them but they are filled now.
The front side against the cab has a few rusted seams. Can't paint over rust...
With access found the back side of some hole repair welds. guess I'll grind those down and paint...
Ford used a torch to cut off the bedside brace when a toolbox was installed. Can't have rough cuts, so I fixed it. 😁
 
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rattle_snake

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One of my neighbors has an employee who has done some paint work. He stopped by last night in his beautiful 56 Fairlane he had painted. We chatted awhile and he offered use of some paint guns and an inflatable booth. I don't really like borrowing other people's stuff, especially with paint type work, as I always make a mess trying to hurry. I know it will come out better with use of them.
At a minimum I can get some guidance when things go awry.
 

lilscorpion

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Thanks. Coming from Mr. next level powder coat, I'll just agree.
;)
Seeing some of your work makes me feel better about the situations I get myself into.

But then I started closely inspecting the bed now that it is off the frame.
Found one wheel well that I didn't weld the trim holes shut in. Cant really see them but they are filled now.
The front side against the cab has a few rusted seams. Can't paint over rust...
With access found the back side of some hole repair welds. guess I'll grind those down and paint...
Ford used a torch to cut off the bedside brace when a toolbox was installed. Can't have rough cuts, so I fixed it. 😁
LOL. We are very similar creatures Justin.

the whole bedside brace thing - I've always found it crazy that manufacturers are capable of such accuracy and then hack a way on a single component like that bedside brace. Very split-brained.
 

ntsqd

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It is those sorts of hacks that trip up the concours types. Unless well documented they'd fix it not realizing that they were making it more perfect, but less correct.

I'd fix it too, but I'm a concours-phobe so that's not why.
 
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rattle_snake

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Got the outdoor sink installed this weekend. Was temped to paint truck but I wasn't really ready and came down with a cold so only running on a few cylinders.

More details in shop thread here
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/rattle_snakes-34x40-shop-build-in-az.318925/post-9436816

Last item on cabinet was to reinforce securing top to the sink side edge. Given location there was only 1/8 of contact on this side so I used some construction adhesive to add some material where it counts. I can pick up whole thing from the corners and it is solid enough.
To do it again I would move sink over this amount. guess that is where solidworks design would help. But I sit in front of 'puter too much already so engineering paper and my half broken mind it is.
DV3hTQE5xA0ex0HfUrytYB_b_=w1063-h797-no?authuser=0.jpg

Pluming connections magically popped out of wall and installed unit.
With pavers now connecting back yard and both parking pads, I was able to just roll the unit out of roll-up door and around to back on furniture dollies. No more going out man door with step, 5 years later.
MOwzKxGZHZ1tc9QVoyW9zpgDP=w1063-h797-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
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rattle_snake

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Justin your right on track with your truck, folks talk about scope creep, but you arnt the type to glaze over something so subconsciously this is what you planned anyway. It will look great and be like a new truck.
Wow Jim you can read my mind somehow. Guess i need to wear my foil beanie!

Seriously though your assessment is quite accurate. I have had a few friend say the same about paint job which I denied at the time, but they know me all to well. Once I pealed off the drip trim and found rust I knew where things were going. Trying to slow down and enjoy the process, and make time for family.
 
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rattle_snake

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Moving on with sink accessories, building a backsplash out of 26 ga remnant. The pavers are level and cabinet didn't need any shims to level, but wall is not straight so a decent gap from wall to the counter top. To keep back of cabinet dry the backsplash will cover gap so put a break along the long edge. Used 1/4" radius on workbench as a die and clamped a brace.
BbF9y69PYxWmP_ZN3SMMTyfOf=w1040-h781-no?authuser=0.jpg

To complicate further I made fancy corners to aid draining the surface, as at some point it will get wet from condensed water vapor falling from the sky. Not a fan of welding in 26 ga, too thin once ground at all. Miller 211 set to min power works though.
-EHFc8xKEUfsm7mD2kTqcC8ft=w1040-h781-no?authuser=0.jpg

Test fit. Wish it was a taller piece in relation to j-box above, but I'll take what I can get. Can address with shelf above more for looks than function.
But I can't install all shiny so dumped some hydrogen peroxide on it, but too slow so will scuff and maybe use something more aggressive. Too impatient to let is rust naturally, haha.
szKBqVXDx4AeFl1bbUGAexsJZ=w1040-h781-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
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rattle_snake

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Built a crude paint rack out of wood so I can hang doors, hood and such that need both sides painted at same time. Is a bit too flimsy so may slide the ends in to shorten, and can still hang stuff on ends. Had planned to be able to roll it loaded but will see how it goes.
rsV_9yjyMFUpoHdiOUWd15UT0=w1040-h781-no?authuser=0.jpg

I cleaned and painted the bottom of the bed. There was at least a whole shovel full of dirt that came out of cracks and gaps. Half-*** paint-over-dirt (POD) job but still an improvement and matches the bottom of the cab. It had been undercoated long ago, some of which failed and other spots that were blocked during application so wasn't ever going to look decent.
Re-did seam sealer on forward wall and completed final sanding on bed, cab and all panels, so ready for sealer when time and weather allows.
QuGDBMX3AlI13ChrWDXVs5OPB=w1040-h781-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
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PugetDude

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Moving on with sink accessories, building a backsplash out of 26 ga remnant. The pavers are level and cabinet didn't need any shims to level, but wall is not straight so a decent gap from wall to the counter top. To keep back of cabinet dry the backsplash will cover gap so put a break along the long edge. Used 1/4" radius on workbench as a die and clamped a brace.
BbF9y69PYxWmP_ZN3SMMTyfOf=w1040-h781-no?authuser=0.jpg

To complicate further I made fancy corners to aid draining the surface, as at some point it will get wet from condensed water vapor falling from the sky. Not a fan of welding in 26 ga, too thin once ground at all. Miller 211 set to min power works though.
-EHFc8xKEUfsm7mD2kTqcC8ft=w1040-h781-no?authuser=0.jpg

Test fit. Wish it was a taller piece in relation to j-box above, but I'll take what I can get. Can address with shelf above more for looks than function.
But I can't install all shiny so dumped some hydrogen peroxide on it, but too slow so will scuff and maybe use something more aggressive. Too impatient to let is rust naturally, haha.
szKBqVXDx4AeFl1bbUGAexsJZ=w1040-h781-no?authuser=0.jpg
Zep Acidic Toilet Bowl Cleaner from Home Depot will help kick-start the aging process; quicker than H2O2
 
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rattle_snake

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justin, you're "shelf" above your bench looks heavy duty!
It has some pretty heavy 'stuff' (clutter I don't want to look at) up on it. Wish it was a mezzanine but take what I have room for. Some details of construction starting here;
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/rattle_snakes-34x40-shop-build-in-az.318925/post-6660625
Then things got a little out of control with the sliding doors
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/rattle_snakes-34x40-shop-build-in-az.318925/post-6888402

Zep Acidic Toilet Bowl Cleaner from Home Depot will help kick-start the aging process; quicker than H2O2
Thanks for the tip. I used some muriatic pool acid, not my favorite to work with. So moving on with vinegar.
Wow Jim you can read my mind somehow. Guess i need to wear my foil beanie!

I tried the foil beanie once, everyone saw right through it!
😁
 

lilscorpion

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It has some pretty heavy 'stuff' (clutter I don't want to look at) up on it. Wish it was a mezzanine but take what I have room for. Some details of construction starting here;
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/rattle_snakes-34x40-shop-build-in-az.318925/post-6660625
Then things got a little out of control with the sliding doors
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/rattle_snakes-34x40-shop-build-in-az.318925/post-6888402
Oh yeah, that shelf is beef. I was referring to this shelf - the shelf that has an integrated receiver and bumper stickers on it... :love:

bumpershelf.jpg
 
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rattle_snake

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Ah yes sorry, the bumper shelf. The OG Safe-tee bumper from my 1972 F250 camper special. The bumper did fit the theme of the truck well, I liked it, so I built a heavy duty mounting system and used it for some time. But it hung down real low and with long bed it was going to be an issue on the trail for sure. I guess bigger tires and more lift could have solved (they always do, haha), but decided to build a new plate bumper with significantly improved departure angle.
Once new bumper was on truck I couldn't quite depart with old, so in a moment of artistic inspiration the vision was set and it began new life as a shelf.
 
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rattle_snake

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Play time continues on sink installation. Did some sketches of shelfs and supports but the J-box complicated. So I switched mindset and went and looked at my stash of materials for ideas and inspiration. On top was the leftovers from the cabinet itself, 8/4 Walnut and oak, just the right lengths. I hit them with sander and test fit to see how it would look.
CeXq8mUwpw7JhDD8Myx4u7Pe2=w1063-h797-no?authuser=0.jpg

Colors were off compared to cabinet so used same oil based deck sealer on the shelf, screwed to wall. Left a gap around J-box to allow access. Given board has so much twist 'level' is subjective.
I_XezeD95-pE-jMksGODKaeWN=w1063-h797-no?authuser=0.jpg

Oxidation process not complete but set backsplash in place for a quick picture.
Considered a piece of resawn black oak between metal and shelf in original design, to fill gap as metal is shorter than J-box. But the overall theme is crude and simple. The shelf cleat is random length (hard for OCD types to just use it w/o measure or math) and fits this, so not sure a complicated cut out filler piece would help.
Next step is some type of towel rack and rails to hang stuff to dry on, paint brushes and so on. One over sink itself and another on the side of cabinet. Have to find some interesting junk to make them out of. Can't just buy though, to easy, have to be unique and 'free'.
KyawNZALZZXw1poqtldXbMFAh=w1063-h797-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
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rattle_snake

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Had to get Cobra towed back home this morning. Last time I drove it it died in gym parking lot. I ignored and did my workout then was able to drive it home. No codes, ran fine on next attempt.
Today it made it just onto freeway and engine died at speed. Coasted to end of off ramp, but won't stay running or move. Had ODB reader and got P1233, fuel pump driver module offline. So no fuel...
My volt meter had dead battery so could really diagnose further. The fuel system is modified with a Kenne bell Boost-a-Pump and shares power distribution with high power audio system. 150A Fuse OK. Giant cap has voltage readout, audio works, so assume BAP has power. Jumpered BAP relay but same result. So tow truck it was. Got it home and still no run so wasn't going to wait it out like before. Didn't have time to diagnose further (day job and stuff), so hopefully it still exhibits issue when I can get back to it.
Don't think it is CCRM due to rewire and relay jump. Maybe FPDM or FRPS. Fun with electrons.
 

ntsqd

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Lucas is actually an extremely capable electrical/electronics design and mfg. firm. However, they shot themselves in the foot by offering to build whatever product was wanted to a specific price-point.

So when BMC said 'we need a voltage regulator for £3' they built them a regulator to that price. And cut whatever corners they needed to in order to meet that price. The voltage regulator on a Rolls may say "Lucas" on it, but even if it looks the same, it isn't the same assembly as the one on a Cooper Mini (the real one, not the BMW). Consequently they earned the rep that they have because there are way more Spridgets & Minis running around with faulty voltage regulators than there are Rolls running around with perfectly functioning voltage regulators.
 
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rattle_snake

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Did some more tests on the cobra. Wouldn't start and pumps not priming. Found blown fuse to BAP/FPDM, replaced it and car started and ran. Not sure how I missed that on side of road, perhaps the officer watching, haha. Had a spare in the nitrous bottle heat circuit right next to it. But it didn't run for long and died. Will prime pumps and restart but randomly dies fairly quickly. I was able to connect to OBD and monitor fuel pressure while running. Erratic and when it drops enough engine dies. The BAP outputs 17 V as it should so everything up to FPDM seem OK. Seems like electrical issue and not mechanical (hoses, ect). Don't really want to just throw parts at it....
 
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rattle_snake

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Finally put some paint on the truck this weekend. Decided to just keep it simple and paint outside. I could spend months designing and building a booth inside my shop (been there done that) plus engineering an fan system. So instead I just used that time to paint and move forward. I was able to put sealer on the cab, hood, tailgate and a few other items. Rolling rack worked well enough. Was windy at times so had to just deal with it. Waited until sun went over building, was about 75 F and extremely low humidity. Sealer flashed very quickly. Did 2 coats.
pmc4P8BB79Efyk2e2hdW0xdCG=w1040-h781-no?authuser=0.jpg

Been awhile since my cheap HF paint gun had been filled up. Have had this turd over 20 years and it works well enough. Got it dialed in on cardboard and went at it. I think an important part of painting is consistent hand motion (beyond basic setup) much like welding. A little forethought and getting in the comfortable position is helpful, as apposed to being in too much of a hurry.
5wzKtVtv9HqWE1-afsYuC_d0H=w1040-h781-no?authuser=0.jpg

Not easy to access roof up at 7' and have a easy range of gun motion. Used a ladder on each side.
DdKzHa4PpTy-VE3ygVATdNKMx=w1040-h781-no?authuser=0.jpg

Next day I did a partial mask for white on the roof and laid down color. Did 3 coats, took more paint that I thought.
LsVzWQFtsV1VVR_aGwjFAx12E=w1040-h781-no?authuser=0.jpg

Flash is quick but tacky for several hours so rolled truck inside after a bit. Cars driving by on dirt roads so far from ideal environment.
jXTAoYYpK82axRdhziA5PJNvg=w1040-h781-no?authuser=0.jpg

Found this little guy but just laughed it off. Proof I did it myself in my driveway.
If this is worst so far I take it. It'll buff out...
hyweVvJyjG8X7EAhdN0y4mWHuc=w585-h780-no?authuser=0.jpg

I did drag the hose in the primer on the roof and for get to wipe down the tailgate so mistakes made but overall a win. So far. Long way to go.
 

OutlawDrifter

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At the end of the day, little things like the bug/hose/no tack cloth will not take away from a completed 5-10' paint job...after the first scratches you won't care anymore anyways.

One of the many reasons I like driving the '49 and my Tacoma...I don't care about the paint.
 

zmotorsports

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I can't tell you how many vehicles I've painted outside Justin. On my parent's farm before I had a shop everything was painted outside. My first two motorhomes I painted outside, one in the dirt at my parent's farm and the other at my last home in front of the shop. I just wet the ground down really well to trap dirt/dust and was over zealous with the tack cloth between coats and no one could tell they were painted outside.

Hell, one of the worst paint jobs I ever did was when I rented a paint booth for my wife's T-Bird back in 1990. Thought because I was painting it black and it would show everything that I should spend a few bucks and rent a booth down the street at a local shop. Looked like I drove it through a sand storm with wet paint. Ended up taking it back to my shop at my parent's farm and touching it up panel by panel and I should have just sanded it down and started over. After that I set up the small shop at my parent's as a make-shift paint booth and painted there for about 15 years before it was sold and leveled. Now the small amount of painting I do must be done outside but I try to avoid painting as much as possible.

I think you're being too hard on yourself about your little winged friend. Being a solid color it may sand/buff out and require little effort to eliminate. Overall, what you have done so far looks pretty good. Can't wait to see the rest of the color on it.
 
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rattle_snake

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Thanks Mike, also looking forward to getting the main color on. Hard for me to be patient and wait for weather and my free time to line up to move forward.
 
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rattle_snake

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Found some old photos of paint job I did in my garage on my 77 Bronco. Used free epoxy which without topcoat didn't do well in AZ sun for long.
1kdxfy9BvTiSl6EWP344vOsmu=w1063-h797-no?authuser=0.jpg

So awhile later I went back over it with a urethane of similar color. Free industrial paint.
fEwnd4KFDeXLPd9j6ZxeI3AOk=w1063-h797-no?authuser=0.jpg

Then I did blue and had learned some things and it came out better. Also painted my boat and trailer same color. I think this was 2002, I was rolling in a '77 bronco with a '77 Starcraft. One or the other always had some type of problem (oh the good old days of carburetors). Couldn't figure out how dudes my age had $50k trucks and $80k boats. Then 2008 happened and they were mostly gone, as they didn't really own any of that stuff.
JQXS5S2vNQ6LAbPL3E6lBr8WS=w1063-h797-no?authuser=0.jpg

After Adding some accent colors and fixed some areas it didn't look too bad. Didn't mind a bump or scratch on the trail. Never used any filler, just painted. Then kids happened so the Bronco got sold for a bigger, faster more reliable boat family could enjoy.
Al9wPn6lIZSvYd11uMys=w1063-h797-no?authuser=0[img].jpg
 
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