rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[rattle_snake]

Lowering the beam front end is pretty simple if not going too far. I pulled the radius arms out and replaced the bushings. I cut one coil off and set the truck back on the ground to check the drop, 1". I then cut another coil off, checked, 2". The spring is now too short to retain itself on the bottom, if using the stock length shock. I swapped one of the slightly larger washers from the radius arms to retail the lower coil. A shorter shock would be a better option, but I already bought new ones.


I measured the camber, it was -1.5* R and -2* L which isn't too bad. Four new shocks drastically improved ride.

 

[rattle_snake]

With truck louder and lower, back to adding the trans kickdown cable. The kickdown arm on the carb was mangled so I pulled the carb off to fix. Was able to bend it back into shape and fit the arm to the sleeve such that it didn't interfere with the throttle.


I made a bracket to attach the cable, and an adapter to not cut up the kickdown arm. The trans end was a **** show. Caked in grime, cross threaded metric nut, shriveled up o-ring. I was able to repair the threads and get the new arm on.


Couldn't put the carb back on with such a ghetto fuel plumbing and wiring. I repaired some hackery and bundled the wiring in split loom. I replace the fuel pump to carb with new hose instead of the six pieces it had been cut into. Also added some wire separators to clean up the look.

 

[rattle_snake]

Continuing on with the sketchy fuel system, I removed the tank behind the seat. Someone had messed with it, maybe the tank was out of something else. Mounts welded shut and new holes drilled. The upper attachment bar a different color. Doesn't matter took it all out. Removed the selector valve. Removed the gauge switch that was spliced in. The fuel supply line was in about 10 leaking pieces, cracked 5/16 hose on 3/8 lines. I had an AN6 union so I flared the existing line and extended a new one to the factory rear hardline.


No hose to leak.


The rear line was the only piece not cut up, so I left it and made a ****** on the new piece to match. Just start a double flare 45* and skip 2nd step.


Now only a short section of hose on supply other than the ends.


I adjusted the trans linkage to work properly with the column detents. Made sure it wouldn't start in reverse any more.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

That's a more better 1-wheel peel! Not bad for a Ford, we all know it's doing the best it can

 

[rattle_snake]

Had to test out the safety functions... haha

 

[rattle_snake]

Beat down brown door panels didn't go well with the blue dash. Instead of new clips, just drill holes all over the door and use mismatched screws.


I cleaned and repaired the panels. They were all broken around the armrests, so epoxied the cracks and use some foil tape to hold things in place. Filled all the screw holes and hit with rattle can. For the armrests themselves, I used some vinyl paint.


Starting to look like someone cares.

 

[rattle_snake]

I removed the rear bumper to save weight, as this truck isn't going to tow anything. Roll pan on order.


And I bought some cheap-*** mirrors. But first to un-**** all the holes from many types of mirrors.


Dover satin white rattle can, good enough for now.


$30 car mirror set. Now I even have a useless mirror on the right side. Getting fancy now.

 

[rattle_snake]

Next was addressing some drivability issues. Started with toe alignment, it was 1/2 out, and wandered badly. I set it to 1/16 in and now can drive with one hand. Amazing. The steering box sector bearing is shot, so I ordered a rebuild kit.

Next was C6 shift points. I pulled the hose off and screwed the modulator screw in 5-6 turns. And found reason for some nasty clunks changing gears. Trans not connected to mount, just 'floating'.


I went through all the vacuum lines and found the dizzy vac advance plugged with a ball bearing. I attempted connecting the VA to ported and manifold vac, both immediately kill engine. Will not start with hose attached. Checked VA with pump, it moves but leaks. The mechanical advance works with RPM. I set timing to 15, and it only gets to 30 total. At least now it can spin a tire. The pickup wiring is likely the issue, so new distributor in the works.

 

[rattle_snake]

White on white is too boring for me so I painted the wheels a bronze color. I was able to re-use the one mask tape and all on all four tires. 80 and sunny in November is nice for paint work.


Not the same as cool wheels, but only $10.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

All improvements are making it better! Nice work so far!

 

[ntsqd]

I like to use a 70's era GM license plate holder with the spring loaded hinge in it. Hide a socket receiver right behind the rear plate, access it by folding the plate up or down as appropriate.

FWTW......

 

[XJSuperman]

Certainly looks like progress! And pretty quick at that.

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks guys. I'm enjoying the process. It's satisfying to fix/improve little things one at a time. Once I get the steering box rebuilt and the distributor sorted out it should go down the road pretty good.

I think the next low dollar performance mod is rear end gears and a mini spool. Thinking 3.89 or 3.70. 28" tall tire yields 65 MPH in the mid 3k range with non lockup converter. It has a 3.25 now, so 3.89 is 20% change.

 

[zmotorsports]

Coming along nicely Justin. I like the color choice for the wheels. I would have removed the rear bumper in favor of a rolled pan as well. On both of my lowered shop trucks I did a flip kit license plate and built receiver hitches under the rear. I only used it for hauling my small utility trailer but I did enjoy having some very light towing capabilities. With your other vehicles it probably won't be necessary. I remember taking it to run to Wyoming to pick up a dirt bike for my son and the guy was impressed with hitch setup.

 

[ntsqd]

Too bad the mini-spool coming out of the Wagon's front (!!!) D44 won't do you any good. Some of the Ford trucks in the 70's had D44 rear axles.

If you don't have a PS box rebuilder in mind and are going to hire it out I'll suggest Lee Power Steering. I've been impressed with the work that I've had them do for me.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

I made it home with the truck last night. 100 miles surprisingly without any issues. Roadkill style. Insert key and go. Ignore all noises and vibrations.

Picked up the truck from owner. First hit a shady gas station. Hookers, bums with shopping carts, but that's Tucson. Drove to Barrio Brewery for some provisions and hit the road. Once on I-10 at speed the sloppy steering was sketchy. Truck went 65-70 no problem and would accelerate easy from there. Door and windows are missing most of the felts and seals so it was loud, slightly quieter with windows open.

I have a few NOS trinkets for dent sides. Nice short bed!

 

[TimeWarpF100]

I made it home with the truck last night. 100 miles surprisingly without any issues. Roadkill style. Insert key and go. Ignore all noises and vibrations.

Picked up the truck from owner. First hit a shady gas station. Hookers, bums with shopping carts, but that's Tucson. Drove to Barrio Brewery for some provisions and hit the road. Once on I-10 at speed the sloppy steering was sketchy. Truck went 65-70 no problem and would accelerate easy from there. Door and windows are missing most of the felts and seals so it was loud, slightly quieter with windows open.

The CV swaps leave the frame weaker than before. The K member isn't tied into frame much. It works, could be mitigated. There are bolt on adapters for those who want bolt-on solutions.

Saw this @ SEMA 2022, Ridetech’s Ford solution. Look like a nice setup. Had a couple done trucks in their booth.
Please do it so I can decide if it’s what I want for my 73 F100 I’ve had for 40 years!

I dunno, does Randy ever get off work? Man is a machine!

I like the nerdery of the proper use of symbols

Me?

I removed the rear bumper to save weight, as this truck isn't going to tow anything. Roll pan on order.


And I bought some cheap-*** mirrors. But first to un-**** all the holes from many types of mirrors.


Dover satin white rattle can, good enough for now.


$30 car mirror set. Now I even have a useless mirror on the right side. Getting fancy now.

I have a really nice re-chrome rear bumper for dent side.

Thanks guys. I'm enjoying the process. It's satisfying to fix/improve little things one at a time. Once I get the steering box rebuilt and the distributor sorted out it should go down the road pretty good.

I think the next low dollar performance mod is rear end gears and a mini spool. Thinking 3.89 or 3.70. 28" tall tire yields 65 MPH in the mid 3k range with non lockup converter. It has a 3.25 now, so 3.89 is 20% change.

Do you have a 3.89 rear gear set? I have a couple floating around if need be.

Liking this project! Huge fan of the 73-79 trucks and have owned a bunch. Ordered one new in '79

 

[stockerwithalocker]

Too bad the mini-spool coming out of the Wagon's front (!!!) D44 won't do you any good. Some of the Ford trucks in the 70's had D44 rear axles.

If you don't have a PS box rebuilder in mind and are going to hire it out I'll suggest Lee Power Steering. I've been impressed with the work that I've had them do for me.

I’ll second Lee Power Steering. Good customer service, quick turnaround and price was palatable on my cherokee. They rebuilt my pump and i bought a big bore steering box.

 

[rattle_snake]

Wow I didn't know you could spend $3000 on a steering box rebuild.

This box will be replaced with a rack so not going to invest much in it, $50 for the seal/bearing kit. Even if I can't replace the lower bearing easily I can reseal the input. Somewhat pointless to clean the chassis when it leaks so badly.

 

[rattle_snake]

Roll pan arrived, happy with the gauge, stamping, fit and overall quality.

My dad has a 9" 3rd with 3.50 gears from our Mach 1 that I can have. I think it is an open carrier. I need to pull an axle and count the splines. I should have thought of that last week, as they just traveled here to AZ. A 3.50 would be an OK ratio with much more power.

I found a used Edel Perf 351w intake I hope to pick up. Then possibly a, uh, carburetor. I have a Holley 750 DP as an ornament, I think it is a poor choice for a Lo-Po 351. There are several used Edel carbs for cheap enough. I think a 600 is a better fit. As much as I despise carburetors, it would meet my needs, and be cheap.

Considering putting some money into the 351 as a way to delay a big engine expenditure. Been shopping Godzilla's, $10k minimum, so same as SBF or BBF built to similar level. It would go in the 72, but would have to redo the exhaust, fuel system, mounts, intake, accessory drive, and so on. I would guess total cost to swap around 12 or 13k, which I don't have. It would look out of place.

Considering home porting the existing heads, a cam, used intake, used carb, cheap headers. I think I can do this for around $1000 and go from 150 HP to 300 or so without overwhelming the C6. It should be enough to light up the tires. Pulling engine is super simple, so might as well break it down and see what I have, reseal and send it.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Any used 4175 spread bore carbs out there in AZ? It'll give you great drivability and throttle response on the small primaries and plenty of air with the secondaries opened up.

 

[ntsqd]

You don't HAVE to spend $3k on the box. I ended up needing to replace the Wagon's Saginaw box and it ran about $600. Which is about what I recall the Yota IFS box & pump rebuild running some years ago.

Back when I could tune a carb part-ways decently (I never was decent, let alone expert at it) I never got a Holley to have the off-idle driveability that the AFB had, but then the AFB never had the top end of any of the Holleys that I tried (350 2bbl, 390 cfm to 750 cfm 4bbl). Biggest issue with tuning the AFB was knowing how to mix and match the needles and main jets. Eddy stuff has that better sorted than Carter ever published, but Eddy stuff didn't exist then. I built a spreadsheet that calc'd a simple Power and a Cruise area from the needle and main jet diameters, and then sorted that Rich to Lean Cruise, and then within any likes or similars rich to lean again.

I used unpolished mag wheel type wheel cleaner to clean my AFB of all of it's corrosion. Worked exceptionally well. Don't do that to a Holley or a Q-Jet!

Stuff a **** 408 stroker kit in the 351W block, add some roller lifters and drive it! While you're in there convert it over to mid-late 90's serpentine drive using the same vintage E-series PS pump & A/C comp bracket and the Saginaw pump.

EDIT, again, sorry; Just noticed that this is my 427th post!!!

 

[zanyad]

Just noticed that this is my 427th post!!!

 

[PhantomEB]

This box will be replaced with a rack so not going to invest much in it.

Rack and pinion, you say? I not too familiar with the earlier years of Ford 2WD trucks. Will Rack and Pinion work with them?

 

[ntsqd]

Won't work well with the TIB, but with the planned SLA it'll be fine. IF it's sorted right.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Roll pan arrived, happy with the gauge, stamping, fit and overall quality.

My dad has a 9" 3rd with 3.50 gears from our Mach 1 that I can have. I think it is an open carrier. I need to pull an axle and count the splines. I should have thought of that last week, as they just traveled here to AZ. A 3.50 would be an OK ratio with much more power.

I found a used Edel Perf 351w intake I hope to pick up. Then possibly a, uh, carburetor. I have a Holley 750 DP as an ornament, I think it is a poor choice for a Lo-Po 351. There are several used Edel carbs for cheap enough. I think a 600 is a better fit. As much as I despise carburetors, it would meet my needs, and be cheap.

Considering putting some money into the 351 as a way to delay a big engine expenditure. Been shopping Godzilla's, $10k minimum, so same as SBF or BBF built to similar level. It would go in the 72, but would have to redo the exhaust, fuel system, mounts, intake, accessory drive, and so on. I would guess total cost to swap around 12 or 13k, which I don't have. It would look out of place.

Considering home porting the existing heads, a cam, used intake, used carb, cheap headers. I think I can do this for around $1000 and go from 150 HP to 300 or so without overwhelming the C6. It should be enough to light up the tires. Pulling engine is super simple, so might as well break it down and see what I have, reseal and send it.

I have had multiple boxes done by Redhead. They can change to a 16:1 box then add a proper swaybar to front and it will be a different truck.

Sway bar & box under a grand.

What i did to mine.

 

[rattle_snake]

yes a sway bar would make a big improvement. Who's bar is that? In the end I would do another another from TK racing, but may slap some junkyard OEM one in sooner.

Love the look of that pickup from every angle. Outstanding.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

yes a sway bar would make a big improvement. Who's bar is that? In the end I would do another another from TK racing, but may slap some junkyard OEM one in sooner.

Love the look of that pickup from every angle. Outstanding.

Thanks.
My older brother a chassis engineer so he gave exact specs what i needed and steered me where to buy. Splined bar so easily replaced.
Handling was incredible for a twin i beam.
Don’t think a CV swap could out handle it without major changes/mods

The 14” brakes on all 4 corners was really good also. Have never owned a vehicle with better brake feel.

 

[ntsqd]

Speedway Engineering for the sway bar parts? Looks like their stuff, but they're not the only such vendors out there.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Speedway Engineering for the sway bar parts? Looks like their stuff, but they're not the only such vendors out there.

Mine came from Coleman machine. My brother used to build chassis for them. Raced with owner Gene who i think now may have passed away.

 

[rattle_snake]

Need some carb advice. Took a closer look at the relic, it is a Holley 4150 vac secondary carb (not a mech DP). List 6647. Trying to identify what is the right rebuild kit for it. Holley lists as 'N/A'. This appears to be a marine carb, it did come of a 454 in a boat. I have seen is listed as a 750, 780 and a 600.

I have found the following rebuilt kit P/N associated with it
3-655
K455

generic 4150 is 37-485.

Given I am going to try this on my 351, does it even matter which rebuild kit I use?

 

[rattle_snake]

Did some repairs to the grill and bumper. The right side had a piece missing due to a poorly installed trans cooler. I made the missing piece out of sheet metal in the brake.


I painted one side black, but didn't like the look. Other side silver, but needed the supports and screw bosses painted black to remove focus. So I went back and masked as needed. Came out OK. Next was to straighten the bumper.


This worked better. The bumper is a mess, but it works for now.

 

[rattle_snake]

Installed the roll pan. First step was to level the tailgate. The relief for the tailgate hinges was a bit small so I opened it up, as I will be the one to have to remove the tailgate. The piece seemed to fit best with a small gap to tailgate.


I went ahead and painted the piece before installing on the truck. otherwise would have to remove tailgate to paint the jam.

Then final fit up and welding. I used a shim to get a consistent gap. Left side fit pretty well, but the right needed some filler. The very bottom of the bedsides were untouched, but aren't really intended to be seen. I worked with a hammer and filled the void to give a semi finished look.


Then a little paint over the seams. I dusted the top of the tailgate to get a more uniform look.

 

[ntsqd]

The secondary metering plate gaskets (assuming it's not a block like the front) and the calibration of the power valve are the two parts of a Holley rebuild kit that I recall varying the most.

Recall the Cherry Chapstick trick for the bowl and block gaskets? There are premium gaskets for these locations, but since you're not regularly drag racing it I'm not sure that they are justified.

 

[rattle_snake]

I was able to get a used Edelbrock performer 351W intake manifold. After reading about fitment problems and port inconstancies of the import junk, I chose to go with the real deal.


I was gifted this Holley carb 25 years ago, it has worked well as a decoration. I bought a cheap velocity stack air cleaner just for looks.

 

[ntsqd]

OK, so metering block instead of plate. The gaskets needed for those carbs are pretty simple. The only thing that I can think of that could trip you up is early style of accel pump transfer port (gasket) or late (o-ringed tube).
Example of an early style bowl & block gaskets: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-108-200 Note the little hole centered above the 'D' shaped window.
Example of late style bowl & block gaskets: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-108-203 Note the notch in the 'D' shaped window.

Could likely piece together the needed gaskets if you can't get solid advice on what rebuild kit to buy. Just a little searching of Summit found most of the needed gaskets.
OR buy the best-fit kit and then buy whatever doesn't fit or isn't included one by one. It will be the small gaskets that come in a kit that aren't as easy to find by themselves that are the harder to find parts. In looking into this I noted that there are several different hole sizes listed for the needle and seats for those center-hung fuel bowls. Would be good to know what you have now before ordering. I doubt that you can buy a kit with different sized assemblies, but if what is in the carb now differs by lot from what comes in a kit then I'd be looking at buying the correct size separately.

edited for grammar

 

[zmotorsports]

The rolled rear pan turned out awesome Justin. I always welded mine in as well and blended to the bedsides vs. fasteners as I've seen many done. I understand why some people don't like welding them solid, but the looks are so worth it.

 

[rattle_snake]

Thank you for the info ntsqd, that is helpful

Thanks Mike. It was a fun job, short seams not a lot of grinding. It's hard for me not to go all in on every aspect of the project. I'll revisit some areas when it's time for paint.

 

[ntsqd]

FWIW without working too hard I was able to find all of the big gaskets needed on Summit with little trouble. Even the fuel level bowl sight screw gaskets and the needle & seat gaskets aren't hard to find. It is the little gaskets, like those between the vacuum secondary and the main body, that I didn't easily find.
Given the almost constant drip/leak of the old Holley bowl screw gaskets I'd be really inclined to try one of the aftermarket nylon options if any kit purchased doesn't have them.

BUT, just now sitting here I remembered a test that should be done first before you do anything with that carb. With it clamped or bolted down crack the throttle a bit open and then try to linearly push the throttle lever fore and aft. If you have detectable movement possible there you have two options. Have the throttle plate's shaft bore(s) bushed (the kit uses thin wall valve guide type bushings) or find a different carb. With play between the throttle shaft and the bore it will leak air and getting it to behave consistently isn't going to be possible.

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks that is a good idea to check the shafts. been there chased that before.