rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[rattle_snake]

So how does the exhaust sound?
Similar to before, but you can hear more of the individual pulses so it has a meaner more aggressive sound. No drone.

The rear end slides to the left pretty bad during a burn out. Maybe a thrust angle issue with rear end. Going to measure again and see if I can tweak the u bolts.

 

[ntsqd]

No, no X here. It won't make much of an improvement on a lo-po engine.

It can kill a low freq drone should the truck have one at part-throttle cruise. An old vehicle of mine had one so severe that it felt like it might drive you insane in the next mile or so, but then I seem to be particualrly sensitive to those.

 

[plain2car]

man!! justin nice job on the exhaust.... I too would not have thought about the weld tension as well... question: is the truck emmission legal? if so, how did it go? if not, are you going to or just "hagerty" it... since you have "another" vehicle to drive "daily"..... just wondering. my '86 C10 was a bit of a hassle to get "legal", luckily I was able to get a 5yr tag.. for now...

 

[rattle_snake]

I have classic insurance policy (NOT the Hag) so no emission testing. I was able to insure it before registering.

 

[SilverJimmy]

So glad we live where we do, never had to get a “Emissions” test!

 

[rattle_snake]

Last few days I have been helping my friend with his 2007 Ram 1500. We did a touch screen head unit, but the truck has separate amps and needs electronics to talk back on the communication bus with the rest of the system. Got that put in, wired in a sub amp and dropped in a sub box I already had. Then on to a full brake job, and fluid flush. The gas tank has a leak, likely the filler tube or sender gasket, so that is next.

 

[lilscorpion]

To go along with the old school hotrod theme, I installed a 5" monster tach with an external shift light front and center on the dash. Gaudy? Oh ya. Useful? not yet, but it is a statement.


Brings me back to the 90s with the tack face staring back at me.

In my ‘69 Chevelle too! Has the shift light and the same sized oil pressure warning light. Both were too bright but man I felt cool with that setup.

 

[rattle_snake]

In my ‘69 Chevelle too! Has the shirt light and the same sized oil pressure warning light. Both were too bright but man I felt cool with that setup.

Those were the days man....

 

[rattle_snake]

last one before pulling motor/trans for a cleanup, paint and intake.

Google Photos

photos.google.com

 

[Ohmthis]

Hell Yeah!!!

 

[plain2car]

NNIICCEE!! I was like.. "WTH" it is just a picture of the wheel.... then I saw the "movement" and THEN I turned the sound on & it all came together!! LOL!!! ...Justin hope Santa left some skidmarks on the roof this year & I wish you and the family a happy and safe new year!!

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Appropriate proof has been provided to said peanut gallery committee. It has been approved and no further documentation required, but is recommended for viewing pleasure.

 

[rattle_snake]

The cheap skinny tires do make a LOT of smoke in a short time.

Removed the grill/bumper/core support to pull the engine/trans out easier. Plan is clean, paint, install 4V intake. Fix known leaks at intake, valve cover, trans output and kickdown. Change oil. Flush cooling system. I had bagged and wrapped the trans output so it wouldn't leak fluid all over the floor. The bag tore and made a huge mess.


Entire transmission was caked in grime.


Went many rounds of oven cleaner and a brush on the chassis and drivetrain.


Did a 90% job on the chassis. The suspension needs to be removed to go any further.


Same 90% on the engine and trans while they are still sealed up reasonably well.


I separated the engine/trans and put the engine on the stand. Finished spot cleaning at a more comfortable work height.


The crankcase was relatively clean. Block is an 1984. Heads are D8OE, 351 small valve, big chamber smoggers. The trans has a tag with a number indicating a rebuild. Torque converter was dated April 2004. So it was rebuilt around that timeframe.

 

[LXCam]

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year Justin.

I was wondering if you planned on dropping on some new heads since you're this far into it?.

 

[larry4406]

Looks like oven cleaner is quite effective as a degreaser!

I would not have thought of that. Thanks for the tip.

 

[rattle_snake]

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year Justin.

I was wondering if you planned on dropping on some new heads since you're this far into it?.

Thanks Cam, same to you.

No, no money for heads and cam and valvetrain at this time. E7TE would be junkyard upgrade with bigger valves and smaller chamber.

Looks like oven cleaner is quite effective as a degreaser!

I would not have thought of that. Thanks for the tip.

Yes it is, it is Lye. Which will clean/burn your eyes, lungs and skin. Must use PPE.

 

[rattle_snake]

Step one with the engine was to port the cylinder heads, because free. Other than the used intake, I have no money to put into the motor. The gas port bumps in the exhaust runners consumed a significant amount of the cross sectional area. I ground them down most of the way and did some blending. Can't really get to the pockets without pulling heads and valves out, which would be the next step. Even if I did they have small valves and big chambers, so a poor starting point . I blended the exhaust port opening somewhat to that of the header (not the gasket). SBF is exhaust limited so this should help.


Taped up the open areas and painted the engine. Used dark Ford blue, which is probably the original color, so kind of non-creative.


Sanded all of the gasket surfaces to bare metal


Going to try laminated steel valve cover gaskets.


Felpo 1250s. tossed the china wall gaskets. Put a thin layer of RTV on the head side only and put intake in place to hold the gaskets down. Let dry overnight. At this time you can see how much gap is at China walls and know how much RTV to use.


Next day made steel blockoff plates for the EGR ports. This prevents heating of intake's EGR passage that goes nowhere but each head port. Then a thin layer of RTV on intake side and China walls and complete intake installation.


I couldn't find a suitable vac tree so I tapped 3/8 NPT on the back of the intake to use the factory one.

 

[rattle_snake]

Next step was to simplify the accessory brackets just to look better. The alternator was mounted up high on the head with a bracket for the 7/16 bolt. The lower threaded hole in the right head is only 3/8ths , so to solve that I made a custom spacer. I used the lathe to drill/tap 7/16 on one end and 3/8 on the other. Then popped it in the mill to make some wrench flats.


Locktite'd in a 3/8 stud, and now can use the right sized bolt for the alternator's mounting sleeve. I made a simple link to triangulate the pivot bolt and modified the existing tensioner slide bracket to work at the lower location.


Next was to get rid of the ugly power steering pump slide bracketry. I will probably go to a Saginaw style pump at a later time so I used one of the existing canned ham mounting brackets. I pressed the studs out, welded up the holes, and prettied up the stamped piece. Smashed it flat in press and contoured the edges. This bracket also supports the back of the pump which I have found to be important.


The intent was to go to a pivot style system, so I welded on a piece of 1/2 ID DOM. The lower bolt on the left head is 7/16, which DOM I don't have, so I made a sleeve out of 0.026 sheetmetal.


After basic fitment I cut the bracket to sink the sleeve in a bit.


But before I could determine the pivot spacer length, I needed to fix the pulley mis-alignment of crank/water pump. It was out 0.100, and the pullies almost touch, so that is bad. I fumbled with spacers but decided to just move the water pump hub into correct position with a puller.


From there I added provisions for a threaded tensioner and a support brace in the plane it needs.


Spent way to much time on this one piece.


Used a bolt welded to flat as the tensioner and made a link to support the pivot bolt.


I cut up the old belts and used them to measure for the new. Found the best sizes first try, amazing.


Finished out the rest of the engine dress. Painted the headers with header paint. Then went back and beat on them so that a socket would fit on all the bolt heads.


Motor is done and ready to go back in.

 

[rattle_snake]

On to the transmission. I was hoping to not have to buy $100 worth of fluid, as it didn't need it, and I don't know what it is. Guessing Dex/Merc over F given 2004 rebuild data. But I spilled a lot on the floor, so I finished draining it so I could clean and paint it vertical. I made a tray with a lip to fit my tool cart out of **** OSB.


Painted the case cast iron and the pan/solenoid cover for blue.


The front/pump seal was not leaking but 2004 is still 20 years ago, so I popped in a new one.


The output seal was leaking so put in a new one. Also did o-rings on fill tube and kickdown lever.


I reworked the vac modulator line, and the cut up half of the cooler lines. Also shortened the kickdown cable significantly. Ready to go back in.

 

[rattle_snake]

And onto the chassis. I attached a brush to a pipe and cleaned the inside of the frame as far as the trans. I went back and clearance the right frame rail further for the headers. Welded the top side of the scab and smoothed it out. Then some black paint. Did some basic touch up and cleaning of the inner fenders, but they will eventually be body color not black. I turd polished the motor mounts and put in new hardware.


Almost every connector has a slice right at the end. Why I don't know. The alternator wiring was modified so I unwrapped the whole thing so see what else was hiding. I made some repairs and slapped some split loom on it. I also made a new cab/engine ground cable.


Bolted up the trans and stuck the pair back in.


Going to use the fixed fan until I can piece together a clutch system. An E-fan would be OK, but not with future A/C, unless it is a really good one. A good brushless fan cost a lot of money, and then the old external regulated alternator would not support it. Easier/cheaper not to convert mechanical->electrical then back to mechanical. Plus the clutch can move way more air than any 12V e-fan, which is what I need when ambient is 125+ stuck in traffic with A/C full blast.


I ended up doing a good cleaning and a half-*** paint job on the core support, shroud and radiator. Assembled the stack and put it back on as one piece.


The trans cooler lines where butchered up and had some hose shoved over single flares in the tube soto cut up the hose. The front half tubing was garbage, so I bent up new line out of 5/16. Put the factory cooler back in, which is too small for AZ with the radiator bypassed, but no cost for now.


Used an inverted flare coupler to join the two halves of the cooler lines. Now it is all hardline.


Finished out the assembly and filled up the fluids. Set the timing. It only leaks fuel, coolant, oil, and trans fluid, which is everything I was trying to fix in the first place. I attempted to drive it after trans was filled properly, but it backfired and won't take any throttle under load.

 

[XJSuperman]

I can feel that disappointment. Awful lot of good work for that result. You'll get it on the rebound!

 

[larry4406]

Ugh.

I like the wire brush on a pipe trick.

 

[ntsqd]

FWIW I've been messing about with converting a 3G alternator to use a real, 3 stage external regulator (Balmar ARS-5). In the process I've discovered that there are swing mount versions (I had thought that they were all radial mounted). 130A is junk-yard easy with one of those. Were you running a serpentine drive system I'd tell you to look at the late 90's Econolines for the 130A radial mount alternator. Not sure if just going earlier puts you into a swing mount or not. Of course can go aftermarket and get up above 270A, but at a price!

Nice part of the 3G's is that the brush holder is screwed to the regulator, and that whole assembly can be removed from the alt. while the alternator is on the vehicle (assuming clearance behind it).

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Justin, if any of your issues are with flares, you can try my Eastwood flaring tool if you think it might help.

Otherwise, glad to see a steady stream of truck content from you again!

 

[PhantomEB]

I need to do a vac line on mine too for the Modulator. Think it will be the only thing on my 351 that will still be dependent on Engine Vacuum.

 

[v8nutz]

I have never had luck with the gasket leaks on the old engines I've built, no matter how careful and using the best gaskets.

 

[Boosted1]

I like your work. I like your narration even more. It is entertaining.

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks for the replies guys. Being that I only do this for fun, I try to keep my expectations reasonable.

I was able to solve most of the issues and get it to go down the road. Carb still needs attention some parts on the way.

 

[rattle_snake]

Water was leaking out of t-stat housing at the bypass. I sanded the intake and housing surfaces thoroughly so that was odd. What I found is that the PO had used some type of filler to fill the pitting on the flat surfaces. The area of the leak was pitted deep, and the filler let go. I resurfaced with 120 and picked all the remaining filler out so the RTV could grab the base metal. I tossed the 192* t-stat for a 180* high flow type. Leak solved, did a few drive cycles and there is very little rust so no need to flush repeatedly. Can go to coolant/distilled.

Both valve covers were leaking engine oil badly. I pulled the covers off to inspect and saw that the lower radius of the gasket was off the shoulder of the cover sealing flange. The gaskets fit the heads properly.


I put a small amount of RTV only in that area and now they are leak free.


Filling the trans resulted in some fluid leaking out funnel/fill tube. It burned off then I was able to find a drip from one fitting that needed to be tightened.

The design of the Holley 4150 has lots of gaskets including on fasteners. I was able to snug things up one at a time to resolve the fuel leaks.

The carb had serious stumble issues so I spent some time learning about the 4150. Tightened up the accel linkage and that made it drivable. Still needs more work, going to go up in nozzle size next.

 

[rattle_snake]

With truck back on the road onward with tiding up the engine compartment. I cleaned one side of the bottom of the hood.

Then did other side with grey scotch and got it much cleaner so need to go back and do the 1st half again.

I shaved the **** off the left inner fender, moved the wiring and wrapped it. Touched up the pain around the front clip brackets.


Made a mount bracket for the DSII box out of some 16 ga.


Tucked it behind the brake booster so no need to modify wiring.

 

[Boosted1]

Moving along.

 

[rattle_snake]

Micro drill set came in and I was able to drill out the nozzle from 0.025 to 0.028. Didn't help. Drilled to 0.031, slightly better on initial tip in but still bogs badly after that.
The accel cam is the typical white marked 218, in position #1.

 

[ntsqd]

Oh the joys <sarcasm> of tuning a Holley. Like others have mentioned, I never got the part-throttle drivability from any of the Holleys that I tried on the Ranchero that I got from the AFB. I also never got the top-end HP from the AFB that I got from one of the Holleys when I had its tune the best that I could get it. As the car was my DD, the part-throttle behavior was far more important to me.
By the time the Valiant came to me what little I'd learned about tuning Holley had long since vaporized. I had the local carb shop tune it, and I should have done that at the very beginning.

 

[rattle_snake]

Yes, the joys. Your experience seems same as most all the others. Never quite right...
Sadly the tuning part are expensive now. Especially compared to 'free' of EFI.
cams $50
jet kit $80 (or $10/pair)
nozzles $25 each size
rebuild kit $50

I made some progress on tuning the carb. I turned the idle mixture screws out 1/2 turn and that made a significant improvement. Did another 1/4. Not perfect but now roadworthy. Didn't like lean idle to lean transition. Some work to go still on accel circuit.

I installed 76 jets in secondary (prim are 68). This cleaned up the transition to WOT, and WOT itself.

Off idle and low end torque is greatly improved over the 2 bbl, which I didn't expect. It pulls nicely all the way to 5500.

Way more power everywhere. I can now stomp down and it will set me back in the seat and tires on on the limit of traction.

I installed a 20 tooth speedo gear to correct the 10% error. Now it is right on. Drove it to work today, 75 mph is 3500 rpm. Hit a side street to reevaluate burnout performance. It will now lay down long twisty patches, success.

 

[ntsqd]

blah, blah, blah..... to reevaluate burnout performance. It will now lay down long twisty patches, success.

The meat of the post!

 

[rattle_snake]

Added a reusable air filter. The blue color adds 25 hp.

 

[rattle_snake]

Swapping out the 50 year old lap belts for 3 pt retractable setup in black. This truck had no provisions for a ring on the b-pillar. Picked a spot similar to my 72 that did. A rivet is used to keep the plate captive.


I made an anchor plate for the B-pillar and a bracket for the retractor and end tab.


The retractor should point at the ring so the webbing doesn't chafe. The end of the webbing also attaches with the retractor. Should have made the bracket a bit longer.


The ring and webbing cover up the rivet. Not too exciting but safety is important.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Same basic thing I did with the '49, but I plug welded mine to the skin.

 

[LXCam]

Stuck in a hotel all week and last night I was watching Texas metal. They had a cobra replica with a decent running BB Chevy in it come in for a roll bar. The seatbelt bracket was just bolted thru the fiberglass body

 

[rattle_snake]