zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nice work on the clamp mount Justin. I use mine quite a bit and the convenience is well worth the few minutes it takes to knock out the adapter for the table.
rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1
- Thread starter rattle_snake
- Start date
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Had to cancel weekend camping trip due to defective brain and nervous system, but that provided some time to work on my car. Step one was to install new evap in hacked up box. I added foam all around to get a good seal like factory.
The part of the HVAC box that needed to be cut off to get evap core out has one of the four attachment points to chassis. Just gooping the box back together isn't going to be robust enough. That and the foam is pushing on the scab, so I made a metal patch and riveted it on for a robust mechanical solution.
Similarly I reinforced the other side with strips of aluminum and rivets. Don't drill into new core.
Little black paint and can't really tell it was hacked up.
I popped the caps off the evap. It was still under pressure so it shouldn't leak. In theory. There is oil trapped in evap and dryer so you need to add it back when replacing the components. How much is a secret. The system holds about 7.5 oz of PAG 46. I put 2 oz in evap and 1.5 in dryer.
I installed the box assembly and new dryer/accumulator. But not the dash. Not yet. New lubed o-rings. Hooked up the A/C lines and pulled a vacuum. Before the repair the system would not pump all the way down, and you could hear the difference in the pump flow when the manifold valve was open/closed. With new parts it pumped down to gauge limit, and no difference in valve position, indicating the leak has been resolved. I removed the high side to check for service port leak. I let it pump down for an hour.
Then I installed the dash. I took the time to rewire most of the aftermarket stuff. I have progressed my skills and techniques, so brought things up to standards. Now a single loom from each kick panel and one to engine bay. Each component is disconnectable from the rest. Dash and anything else can come out without cutting anything. Going to go a different route with Nitrous and line lock controls so skipped that for now. Finished out console and seats. Holding vacuum for a few hours now, so put in 30 oz of 134a. Everything works. Miracle.
Next day go for a drive and clutch is cycling. Not cooling. Low on refrigerant. ****.
I found oil residue in HVAC box and on evap. Evap was leaking. System went from not holding vac to doing so. Seems like that should indicate success, but no.
I tested the service port valves with soapy water, because they can't leak when connected to manifold. The high side would make a tiny bubble if you watch long enough. Not enough to loose 2 pounds in hours. I put part of a can of refrigerant in the system and let it run awhile. Then pulled car into dark shop and inspected with UV light. I found a trace of dye on the dryer. Probably from lubing the o rings. Didn't see anything else. Not sure where to go from here. I have fixed two leaks, the hose and evap. The pump got a new clutch, so inspected carefully.
The part of the HVAC box that needed to be cut off to get evap core out has one of the four attachment points to chassis. Just gooping the box back together isn't going to be robust enough. That and the foam is pushing on the scab, so I made a metal patch and riveted it on for a robust mechanical solution.
Similarly I reinforced the other side with strips of aluminum and rivets. Don't drill into new core.
Little black paint and can't really tell it was hacked up.
I popped the caps off the evap. It was still under pressure so it shouldn't leak. In theory. There is oil trapped in evap and dryer so you need to add it back when replacing the components. How much is a secret. The system holds about 7.5 oz of PAG 46. I put 2 oz in evap and 1.5 in dryer.
I installed the box assembly and new dryer/accumulator. But not the dash. Not yet. New lubed o-rings. Hooked up the A/C lines and pulled a vacuum. Before the repair the system would not pump all the way down, and you could hear the difference in the pump flow when the manifold valve was open/closed. With new parts it pumped down to gauge limit, and no difference in valve position, indicating the leak has been resolved. I removed the high side to check for service port leak. I let it pump down for an hour.
Then I installed the dash. I took the time to rewire most of the aftermarket stuff. I have progressed my skills and techniques, so brought things up to standards. Now a single loom from each kick panel and one to engine bay. Each component is disconnectable from the rest. Dash and anything else can come out without cutting anything. Going to go a different route with Nitrous and line lock controls so skipped that for now. Finished out console and seats. Holding vacuum for a few hours now, so put in 30 oz of 134a. Everything works. Miracle.
Next day go for a drive and clutch is cycling. Not cooling. Low on refrigerant. ****.
I found oil residue in HVAC box and on evap. Evap was leaking. System went from not holding vac to doing so. Seems like that should indicate success, but no.
I tested the service port valves with soapy water, because they can't leak when connected to manifold. The high side would make a tiny bubble if you watch long enough. Not enough to loose 2 pounds in hours. I put part of a can of refrigerant in the system and let it run awhile. Then pulled car into dark shop and inspected with UV light. I found a trace of dye on the dryer. Probably from lubing the o rings. Didn't see anything else. Not sure where to go from here. I have fixed two leaks, the hose and evap. The pump got a new clutch, so inspected carefully.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Life's been busy with graduation, family and typical broken stuff. Still searching for the mysterious A/C leak on the cobra. It holds vapor pressure OK. I injected a whiff of shop air into the system, 125 psi and it holds that too. It cools OK but not superheat as expected. Now that it is summer temps, I checked system pressures. 375 on high side, appropriate for >110. Not sure why charts end at only 110. Went for a spin around the block and saw someone changing a tire so I stop to offer some help. Kid said I'm OK but sounds like you're not. I'm assuming the condenser popped as it was purging loudly in that area when pumped cycled. Still don't see any trace of oil. Guess I have to pull the fan/radiator and so on to get a look at the back side of the condenser.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
My older daughter has been asking about a subwoofer system for her 2020 mustang for some time now. Sounded like a good HS graduation gift. I asked how loud. She said 'yes'. We discussed design details and colors, and I got started on a box. Two 10's in 1 cu ft each.
She wanted blue speakers, so Pyle 10's with a blue poly cone, chrome basket. They have a double stacked magnet for a longer stroke. Decent piece for the money.
Line converter and a relay for the LEDs. Power from amp so minimal wiring.
I had just enough carpet to cover the box, if I did it in pieces. Probably bought it 10 years ago or more. Long drive to get any automotive stuff anymore.
Black vinyl for the baffle to match interior, seats.
The business end of the subs. Dual 4 ohm coils all in parallel for 1 ohm. I think the amp will do 900 RMS (for a short time) so that is 30 V at 30 A. So 12 gauge wire minimum. Ran out needed one foot bought another 100'.
I guess the apple doesn't fall that far from the tree.
Fab'd a grill to protect the cones from objects that may have shifted during flight. 1/2 SS tube. Orion cobalt '3000w' amp. This amp is rebranded and there are many others that are same guts different heat sink. The Orion product is physical larger and since they are already thermal limited, seemed like the winner. Happy with same line of products in the '76 F100.
Added blue LED strip to the back side of the grill bars. Cut out a mustang silhouette on the plasma table for some extra style. Tried blending paint, fail. Blacked out the logos on the dust caps.
She wanted blue speakers, so Pyle 10's with a blue poly cone, chrome basket. They have a double stacked magnet for a longer stroke. Decent piece for the money.
Line converter and a relay for the LEDs. Power from amp so minimal wiring.
I had just enough carpet to cover the box, if I did it in pieces. Probably bought it 10 years ago or more. Long drive to get any automotive stuff anymore.
Black vinyl for the baffle to match interior, seats.
The business end of the subs. Dual 4 ohm coils all in parallel for 1 ohm. I think the amp will do 900 RMS (for a short time) so that is 30 V at 30 A. So 12 gauge wire minimum. Ran out needed one foot bought another 100'.
I guess the apple doesn't fall that far from the tree.
Fab'd a grill to protect the cones from objects that may have shifted during flight. 1/2 SS tube. Orion cobalt '3000w' amp. This amp is rebranded and there are many others that are same guts different heat sink. The Orion product is physical larger and since they are already thermal limited, seemed like the winner. Happy with same line of products in the '76 F100.
Added blue LED strip to the back side of the grill bars. Cut out a mustang silhouette on the plasma table for some extra style. Tried blending paint, fail. Blacked out the logos on the dust caps.
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OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Install starts at battery with 4 gauge cable. There is a ****** for aftermarket stuff on the right firewall, just have to pull the wheel liner to get to it.
made a mounting plate for a 100 A circuit breaker.
Mounted and cables run. Don't really like using a ring terminal on the battery terminal tension bolt, but not really any other non-intrusive way.
The adhesive on the LED strip is ****, so I had to belt and suspender by heatshrinking it to a piece of metal, and attached that with decent tape.
Many hours later, wires dangling to hook up. I tapped into the rear speaker wires at the bundle exiting the rear deck. For amp ground I decided to use the chassis hole that is very close. The cross member that connects the shock tower has some girth and is welded in enough places. Grind off paint, lug to steel, toothed nut. Would be better to go into floor pan, but not worth drilling hole into floor of her car for that.
Found a truck wiring schematic to add some lighting controls. I wanted to be able to turn the factory trunk light on/off to not bleed into the blue LEDs, and have a on/off switch for the LEDs themselves. Turns out factory light is overpowered and not needed. Anyhow I needed to get at the latch light switch so I put the switches on the truck lid. The trunk light system is a low side switch, that is the switch provides GND when trunk open, and positive side is always hot. I didn't think the lights in the switches would work backward, but they do (maybe incandescent?) so I went back and found the power wire in the bundle with the speaker wires and ran it up to the lid to power the switch lights.
Box wouldn't fit through trunk but just fit going in from cabin. added a mustang sticker when I was cutting circles to cover the speaker dust cap logos.
The box is secured with nylon straps to the kiddo car seat latch system.
Found a close-enough can of touch-up paint to paint the mustang logo.
Both the line converter and the amplifier have a remote knob. The amp is supposedly the bass boost but it is not, just gain. So two gain knobs. Can turn the subs all the way down/off.
Magic
But how does it perform? Pretty damn effective for entry level products. I was concerned that the rear speakers would have some low end filtering but the subs are deep and blend in with the rest well. I left the rear speakers intact, as the truck is not well sealed to the cabin. There are other holes in rear deck. If the trunk is well sealed (like other kid's Honda) the subs will beat the little speakers to death.
made a mounting plate for a 100 A circuit breaker.
Mounted and cables run. Don't really like using a ring terminal on the battery terminal tension bolt, but not really any other non-intrusive way.
The adhesive on the LED strip is ****, so I had to belt and suspender by heatshrinking it to a piece of metal, and attached that with decent tape.
Many hours later, wires dangling to hook up. I tapped into the rear speaker wires at the bundle exiting the rear deck. For amp ground I decided to use the chassis hole that is very close. The cross member that connects the shock tower has some girth and is welded in enough places. Grind off paint, lug to steel, toothed nut. Would be better to go into floor pan, but not worth drilling hole into floor of her car for that.
Found a truck wiring schematic to add some lighting controls. I wanted to be able to turn the factory trunk light on/off to not bleed into the blue LEDs, and have a on/off switch for the LEDs themselves. Turns out factory light is overpowered and not needed. Anyhow I needed to get at the latch light switch so I put the switches on the truck lid. The trunk light system is a low side switch, that is the switch provides GND when trunk open, and positive side is always hot. I didn't think the lights in the switches would work backward, but they do (maybe incandescent?) so I went back and found the power wire in the bundle with the speaker wires and ran it up to the lid to power the switch lights.
Box wouldn't fit through trunk but just fit going in from cabin. added a mustang sticker when I was cutting circles to cover the speaker dust cap logos.
The box is secured with nylon straps to the kiddo car seat latch system.
Found a close-enough can of touch-up paint to paint the mustang logo.
Both the line converter and the amplifier have a remote knob. The amp is supposedly the bass boost but it is not, just gain. So two gain knobs. Can turn the subs all the way down/off.
Magic
But how does it perform? Pretty damn effective for entry level products. I was concerned that the rear speakers would have some low end filtering but the subs are deep and blend in with the rest well. I left the rear speakers intact, as the truck is not well sealed to the cabin. There are other holes in rear deck. If the trunk is well sealed (like other kid's Honda) the subs will beat the little speakers to death.
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OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
Nice work on that setup Justin, it turned out great!
I can't imagine (2) 10's with some power behind them in a pony car...did you see the single 10" and box I recently put in the Z28? It's easy to make it too much when you crank it up.
I can't imagine (2) 10's with some power behind them in a pony car...did you see the single 10" and box I recently put in the Z28? It's easy to make it too much when you crank it up.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Speaker setup looks great Justin.
As for the A/C system, must be something in the water here lately. My son and I have been fighting a small leak on his WJ A/C system. We injected it with 150 PSI of nitrogen a couple of nights ago and let it sit overnight. Last night it had only dropped a few pounds. Went around it again with soapy water at every crimp, connection and area we could get to with no results. Found a suspicious looking connection, but no sign of a leak. Last night we pulled a vacuum on it let it sit for nearly an hour with no creep and this time added a little UV dye to see if we can detect the source of the leak because I feel like we still have one. I haven't fought A/C leaks or issues like I have this past year and I don't particularly care for them..
As for the A/C system, must be something in the water here lately. My son and I have been fighting a small leak on his WJ A/C system. We injected it with 150 PSI of nitrogen a couple of nights ago and let it sit overnight. Last night it had only dropped a few pounds. Went around it again with soapy water at every crimp, connection and area we could get to with no results. Found a suspicious looking connection, but no sign of a leak. Last night we pulled a vacuum on it let it sit for nearly an hour with no creep and this time added a little UV dye to see if we can detect the source of the leak because I feel like we still have one. I haven't fought A/C leaks or issues like I have this past year and I don't particularly care for them..
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Marc,
Thanks. I made sure to enjoy the process and do it to my standards, even if it's not my car and nobody knows or cares.
Yes I did see your Z28 setup. It depends a lot on the background noise level as to how 'loud' the system is going down the road. Subs in a trunk have some efficiency loss getting into cabin vs. a hatch back that is basically the shape of a low frequency horn. The hatch horn effect probably adds 6 db over typical car cabin gain which is the equivalent of another speaker and amplifier channel.
Thanks Mike. I think it came out better than she expected. I so proud of her attitude and hard work though high school. She got a 3.9 with the only Bs in honors. She also excelled at music (not from me) and competitive cheer. She is off to Northern Arizona University in Flagstaff to study nutrition.Speaker setup looks great Justin.
As for the A/C system, must be something in the water here lately. My son and I have been fighting a small leak on his WJ A/C system. We injected it with 150 PSI of nitrogen a couple of nights ago and let it sit overnight. Last night it had only dropped a few pounds. Went around it again with soapy water at every crimp, connection and area we could get to with no results. Found a suspicious looking connection, but no sign of a leak. Last night we pulled a vacuum on it let it sit for nearly an hour with no creep and this time added a little UV dye to see if we can detect the source of the leak because I feel like we still have one. I haven't fought A/C leaks or issues like I have this past year and I don't particularly care for them..
As for the A/C. It's been a fight yes. I try to remind myself the system is not that complicated. 3 components and 3 hoses. But it's the difficulty accessing or observing that can make finding the culprit hard.
I decided to pull the radiator out and put eyes on the back of the condenser. The space is very tight with blower drive and the aftercooler piping/reservoir, plus someone put a line lock on the ABS module. I inspected the condenser with UV, no sign of oil residue. Hmm. But the whole front of the motor is spattered in it, from the fan wash. I put a squirt of 134 in and found the noise, the discharge hose.
This is the hose that I had repaired recently, however it was rubbing the outer crank pulley/belt and the hose was cut through. Took the hose into the local shop and they got right on it and didn't charge me. So thanks again to Dennis at air components in Mesa.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Finding and fixing a leak does not guarantee that the system is leak free. Nor does a deep vacuum. But only one way to find out.
For those who suffer from working with constant pressure hose clamps, the right tool makes all the difference. If you also find yourself needing to purchase more tools you deserve a set.
Seems that each vehicle needs a different coolant. 04 Ford was gold. I flushed and stayed gold. Didn't have any more so tested the concentration and it was high. I poured most of the coolant back in, and topped of with distilled. This car will get an air pocket, so I filled the coolant crossover all the way up and caped it, then the tank. Oddly the thermostat is lowest point, in a remote housing, so it cannot capture air.
After an hour of vac I pulled the car outside to fill with refrigerant. I junked the low switch to speed up the process. About 3/4 way through the pump stopped and I noticed my un-insulated jumper touching a strut bolt. Poo.
Just a fuse right? Found a schematic and which fuse feeds the low side switch. popped. Put in a new one and finished out the job. Still finding new ways to **** things up. The HVAC system in this car has no control over the coolant entering the heater core, unfortunately. No room for one. Right head coolant exits thru heater core, left head is dead-head. The A/C would work better if there was no flow thru heater core. I measured 27 split, 140* ambient into condenser, idle, parked. Will find out how long the refrigerant will stay in.
For those who suffer from working with constant pressure hose clamps, the right tool makes all the difference. If you also find yourself needing to purchase more tools you deserve a set.
Seems that each vehicle needs a different coolant. 04 Ford was gold. I flushed and stayed gold. Didn't have any more so tested the concentration and it was high. I poured most of the coolant back in, and topped of with distilled. This car will get an air pocket, so I filled the coolant crossover all the way up and caped it, then the tank. Oddly the thermostat is lowest point, in a remote housing, so it cannot capture air.
After an hour of vac I pulled the car outside to fill with refrigerant. I junked the low switch to speed up the process. About 3/4 way through the pump stopped and I noticed my un-insulated jumper touching a strut bolt. Poo.
Just a fuse right? Found a schematic and which fuse feeds the low side switch. popped. Put in a new one and finished out the job. Still finding new ways to **** things up. The HVAC system in this car has no control over the coolant entering the heater core, unfortunately. No room for one. Right head coolant exits thru heater core, left head is dead-head. The A/C would work better if there was no flow thru heater core. I measured 27 split, 140* ambient into condenser, idle, parked. Will find out how long the refrigerant will stay in.
SilverJimmy
Well-known member
A/C and Automatic transmissions, the Black Magic of the Automotive World for me! I love what they do for me but I just kill a chicken and light some candles and pray that they keep working for me! I was so happy when the industry got away from actually rebuilding those systems and moved to just R&R of the major components, so many less tools and kits I had to stock on my truck. It went from a whole shelf of different tools to “ya, I’ve got an A/C gauge set back there somewhere….”
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
To finish out the Cobra A/C the nitrous and line lock circuits needed to be rewired. Instead of the removable cupholder switch contraption with video cable, I wanted to have the controls easy to see with helmet on and minimal complexity.
I decided to mount the 3 switches in the shifter bezel next to the cigar lighter. Round latching switches for nitrous arm and heater, and a momentary for the purge.
All wires can unplug from bezel so it can be removed easily.
I had a green, white and amber switches. Should be blue and red...
For the line lock I used a curly XLR/mic cable. Gutted the female XLR and put a momentary switch in place. I had some bulkhead XLRs from another project so used one to avoid hacking up the other end of the cable. Wraps around steering column so nice and hand at any time.
I rewired the trunk side LEDs to the trunk lid instead of the amp turn-on trigger. The original trunk light was a incandescent so I skipped a relay and soldered wires right on to the bulb contacts. It is a low-side switch so have to bring it's associated always hot power wire with the other down from trunk lid.
I decided to mount the 3 switches in the shifter bezel next to the cigar lighter. Round latching switches for nitrous arm and heater, and a momentary for the purge.
All wires can unplug from bezel so it can be removed easily.
I had a green, white and amber switches. Should be blue and red...
For the line lock I used a curly XLR/mic cable. Gutted the female XLR and put a momentary switch in place. I had some bulkhead XLRs from another project so used one to avoid hacking up the other end of the cable. Wraps around steering column so nice and hand at any time.
I rewired the trunk side LEDs to the trunk lid instead of the amp turn-on trigger. The original trunk light was a incandescent so I skipped a relay and soldered wires right on to the bulb contacts. It is a low-side switch so have to bring it's associated always hot power wire with the other down from trunk lid.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Last piece is the nitrous purge plumbing. I had used some 3/16 copper to a union under cowl to a short piece of stainless. Ripped that out and decided to avoid the cowl and do something different. Instead a 3/16 oil/brake line and -3AN fittings. 48" hose with a 90 on one end are common, cheap, $15. It seems the car was designed to have a nitrous purge front and center.
-3AN bulkhead fitting fits perfect. Snaked the line through core and to the purge solenoid.
The 2004 Cobra originally came with a mustang horse logo in the grill. Like many others I swapped it to a snake. But this leaves an ugly square in the plastic that stands out. So instead of a simple washer I made a square one with some bends to fit the plastic.
Painted black and fits nice.
I want to be able to see the purge gas so I pointed the nozzle upwards, near the fangs.
-3AN bulkhead fitting fits perfect. Snaked the line through core and to the purge solenoid.
The 2004 Cobra originally came with a mustang horse logo in the grill. Like many others I swapped it to a snake. But this leaves an ugly square in the plastic that stands out. So instead of a simple washer I made a square one with some bends to fit the plastic.
Painted black and fits nice.
I want to be able to see the purge gas so I pointed the nozzle upwards, near the fangs.
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
Nice work!
Here I thought you were going to have a running pony that shot nitrous out its nostrils on the front end
Here I thought you were going to have a running pony that shot nitrous out its nostrils on the front end
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Very nice and clean work Justin.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Always looking for a bit more performance from my shop audio system. A 21" project sounded cool so pondered existing objects that I could make a box out of. Another amp.
Happened to have this wobbly dried out barrel. 225 Liters, 8 cu ft. I set the rings tighter and screwed them in place to make barrel rigid again. The barrel only is sealed when wet.
$200 21" driver
Barrels have no glue, and speaker cutout is beyond the ID so cut out one end.
No shop floor space to spare so going to be hung from ceiling like the others. Since no glue, added a chuck on 3/4 ply to reinforce the single fastener.
Screwed all of the slats to the speaker end ring to get a decent edge.
Needs to be air tight so sealed all the pieces together with lots of caulk.
Happened to have a terminal that fit the *********. hu hu. *********....
Getting large heavy speakers up on 12' ceiling is difficult and dangerous by myself. So this time a cable hoist system. Had some random bearing so made some homebrew pulleys.
Uni-stut on ceiling like the others and an idler.
Modified a clevis to make less pieces and get things at tight as possible to ceiling.
3/16 wire rope. 1/2" bolt double nut'd and gooped in. Things are going to vibrate.
$30 boat winch. Somehow ended up placing it on lift post. The v1 idler didn't work with 45* side load due moment from bolt offset. So cut up into v2, 2x3 angle with three fasteners.
Uni-pulley v1 was a failure as the cable could walk of bearing and get wedged. So widened one side.
My shop chair is directly under, so added a permanent chain to secure and cable is just for lifting.
Waiting on another used QSC USA1310 that will power this contraption, so haven't tried it out yet.
Happened to have this wobbly dried out barrel. 225 Liters, 8 cu ft. I set the rings tighter and screwed them in place to make barrel rigid again. The barrel only is sealed when wet.
$200 21" driver
Barrels have no glue, and speaker cutout is beyond the ID so cut out one end.
No shop floor space to spare so going to be hung from ceiling like the others. Since no glue, added a chuck on 3/4 ply to reinforce the single fastener.
Screwed all of the slats to the speaker end ring to get a decent edge.
Needs to be air tight so sealed all the pieces together with lots of caulk.
Happened to have a terminal that fit the *********. hu hu. *********....
Getting large heavy speakers up on 12' ceiling is difficult and dangerous by myself. So this time a cable hoist system. Had some random bearing so made some homebrew pulleys.
Uni-stut on ceiling like the others and an idler.
Modified a clevis to make less pieces and get things at tight as possible to ceiling.
3/16 wire rope. 1/2" bolt double nut'd and gooped in. Things are going to vibrate.
$30 boat winch. Somehow ended up placing it on lift post. The v1 idler didn't work with 45* side load due moment from bolt offset. So cut up into v2, 2x3 angle with three fasteners.
Uni-pulley v1 was a failure as the cable could walk of bearing and get wedged. So widened one side.
My shop chair is directly under, so added a permanent chain to secure and cable is just for lifting.
Waiting on another used QSC USA1310 that will power this contraption, so haven't tried it out yet.
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Looks like a barrel of fun, Justin.
ntsqd
Well-known member
Very, very cool! But single point failure mode: suggest safety wiring the modified clevis' cross bolt so that the vibration can't cause it to back out.
cspcrx
Well-known member
That’s a very creative use of the wine barrel! How’s it perform?
Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Can you hear me yet?
PhantomEB
Well-known member
Simply nuts you are!
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
good point on the clevis pin, I overlooked that.
Nuts, yes.
I received the used amp I bought on ebay, another QSC USA 1310. They are old, big, and heavy. 52 pounds.
Step one is open it up and take a peak inside. Clean out 27 years of dust. The turn-on delays of both channels are the same and not too slow, which are dependent on electrolytic capacitors. I hope that all of electrolytic capacitors (hundreds of $ worth) are similar due to it coming from a colder climate. electrolytic capacitors age faster with heat.
I shuffled all the gear in the rack down 4 U's to make room for amp #5. Lost two 2U drawers, unfortunately. Addition of latest amp brings total to 6,250 W. The GX amps have inputs in both TRS and XLR, so can daisy chain out to the USA's. I had some 1/4 mono cables and did a basic tune and polarity test. Bought some TRS/balanced cables in appropriate length and put those in. Need to go back and do some more tuning, the gain for the 18 is maxed out but won't clip or keep up with the rest.
Nuts, yes.
I received the used amp I bought on ebay, another QSC USA 1310. They are old, big, and heavy. 52 pounds.
Step one is open it up and take a peak inside. Clean out 27 years of dust. The turn-on delays of both channels are the same and not too slow, which are dependent on electrolytic capacitors. I hope that all of electrolytic capacitors (hundreds of $ worth) are similar due to it coming from a colder climate. electrolytic capacitors age faster with heat.
I shuffled all the gear in the rack down 4 U's to make room for amp #5. Lost two 2U drawers, unfortunately. Addition of latest amp brings total to 6,250 W. The GX amps have inputs in both TRS and XLR, so can daisy chain out to the USA's. I had some 1/4 mono cables and did a basic tune and polarity test. Bought some TRS/balanced cables in appropriate length and put those in. Need to go back and do some more tuning, the gain for the 18 is maxed out but won't clip or keep up with the rest.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
What to do with two extra rack mount drawers? Guitar rig had 2U open with a block off, so one there to put all the related **** into. Strings, cables, music, etc.
The other? Fab table turned shop desk. Opening is 24, rack is 19 so needed some type of adapter. The block-off seemed to be already exactly what I needed, so I cut the ends off and bent the cut end to not have to weld on the face. My calculations missed the overlap so fail and try again. This left the middle of the block off which was also perfect starting point. Tapped to 10-32 and bent the ends in the break.
Used some clampage to backset the brackets 1", and burned them on.
The other? Fab table turned shop desk. Opening is 24, rack is 19 so needed some type of adapter. The block-off seemed to be already exactly what I needed, so I cut the ends off and bent the cut end to not have to weld on the face. My calculations missed the overlap so fail and try again. This left the middle of the block off which was also perfect starting point. Tapped to 10-32 and bent the ends in the break.
Used some clampage to backset the brackets 1", and burned them on.
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M.Brane
ALLIANCE MEMBER
No damping in that barrel?
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
No, no damping. The enclosure is already huge so using damping to lower the Q isn't really needed. The curvature of the barrel, or lack of parallel walls inherently reduces standing waves. I may add some next time it comes down and speaker out.
There would be a performance benefit from venting the enclosure, however the gain is turned down on it already so it won't really help. I bought a chunk of 6" ABS for ports, as the 21 moves lots of air.
There would be a performance benefit from venting the enclosure, however the gain is turned down on it already so it won't really help. I bought a chunk of 6" ABS for ports, as the 21 moves lots of air.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Getting started on custom door panels for 72 F250 to match the seat, speaker box and so on. Going to use the factory armrest, latch cups and overall design style.
Step one was to use the OEM panel to located every feature with ordinate coordinates, x and y. Origin bottom left of face, and bottom right for the back side. For the 15 clips, I had to find the clip offset, center of pin, location of the hole in the door.
With this data I drew a model in fusion 360 that could be cut on the CNC plasma. I decided to use 'Christmas tree' type plastic clips instead of the metal ones. To make them work I designed a keyhole slot. I had not cut aluminum so did some test cuts and dailed in kurf. 0.050 aluminum to use as the base of the panel.
Compared the 1st article to the OEM panel and made a few slight adjustments.
Test fit the clips on the door.
Next step was to measure and model the insert panel. I was able to copy over the armrest holes from the base panel. In theory the designs should work for the other door as well.
I started this project 1.5 years ago, and already had the diamond stitch panels made up. They appeared to be to short so I sewed on an extension, as the stitching process makes it shrink. but stretched out they were fine, so I cut them off. Glued outside down with contact cement.
Rolled the seams to make the diamonds stick up.
Finished out the corners. Non-trivial with a three layer stack-up. I want minimal thickness.
Step one was to use the OEM panel to located every feature with ordinate coordinates, x and y. Origin bottom left of face, and bottom right for the back side. For the 15 clips, I had to find the clip offset, center of pin, location of the hole in the door.
With this data I drew a model in fusion 360 that could be cut on the CNC plasma. I decided to use 'Christmas tree' type plastic clips instead of the metal ones. To make them work I designed a keyhole slot. I had not cut aluminum so did some test cuts and dailed in kurf. 0.050 aluminum to use as the base of the panel.
Compared the 1st article to the OEM panel and made a few slight adjustments.
Test fit the clips on the door.
Next step was to measure and model the insert panel. I was able to copy over the armrest holes from the base panel. In theory the designs should work for the other door as well.
I started this project 1.5 years ago, and already had the diamond stitch panels made up. They appeared to be to short so I sewed on an extension, as the stitching process makes it shrink. but stretched out they were fine, so I cut them off. Glued outside down with contact cement.
Rolled the seams to make the diamonds stick up.
Finished out the corners. Non-trivial with a three layer stack-up. I want minimal thickness.
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
Hot damn… I attempt just about everything, but upholstery is like voodoo. It looks great !!
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Awesome job Justin.
plain2car
Well-known member
Justin, as usual... you "covered" the work with great skill !! soo... How do you like that glue in relation to being able to hold up to our AZ heat?? I am looking into doing the same to my forever sharp half wrapped steering wheel. the factory vinyl is already unglueing and it is only around 6mo old. I will cover in the same leather as I have the seats covered in...
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Thanks guys for the complements. Upholstery and interior work takes additional and specialized skills, a challenge for me. Lots to learn and mistakes to be made. I need a real
As for 'glue', @slodat was generous to take some time for me and share some best practices. Specifically ONLY using the DAP weldwood product in pics above. It comes in various applications, spray can, regular, and thinned ready to spray. I've used 3M super 77 but it lets go with heat.
I use the regular type and a chip brush to spread. It dries fast so can stick things together and move on.
As for 'glue', @slodat was generous to take some time for me and share some best practices. Specifically ONLY using the DAP weldwood product in pics above. It comes in various applications, spray can, regular, and thinned ready to spray. I've used 3M super 77 but it lets go with heat.
I use the regular type and a chip brush to spread. It dries fast so can stick things together and move on.
plain2car
Well-known member
...yea.. i have used the 3M 77 as well & with the same results, hence my question. I will try the DAP can then. I am thinking of doing something similar on my door as well with some more of my red/blk houndstooth material as well as the leather on the steering wheel
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Next step in the process is to build up the area around the insert with foam. Locally I can only get 1/2 and 3/16, but I need 3/8, so double stack 3/16. It's difficult to make perfect cuts around insert shape, so instead I cut strips on table saw for clean edges, and consistent width. Left a gap for the vinyl. I'm choosing to make the cutout square and not just a trace of the insert. Will see how it goes.
I cut a relief pocket for the retainer clips in the bottom layer of foam using a knife and a chisel. The clips can be replaced easily replaced.
I cut a relief pocket for the retainer clips in the bottom layer of foam using a knife and a chisel. The clips can be replaced easily replaced.
Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
That aluminum looks great! I'm surprised how clean it cut.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Thanks. I tried a few speeds and it leaves a dross. Lowered current to 20A. 50 in/min
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Back to the foam buildup. First layer of 3/16 out of pieces. Hand cut radii.
2nd layer overlap corners. Need to go CNC with foam, in the works.
Added a bump of 1/8 foam for some style on the lower section.
Insert panel actually fits.
2nd layer overlap corners. Need to go CNC with foam, in the works.
Added a bump of 1/8 foam for some style on the lower section.
Insert panel actually fits.
Ohmthis
Well-known member
Justin, that upholstery looks amazing!
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Thanks, getting closer to finished. How to attach the two is still open. Thinking 3M double sided urethane foam tape, or machine screws.
I bought a cheap corded die grinder with 1/4 collet. Plan is to adapt that to the Z axis holder in place of plasma torch. The neck is tapered, which ***** and have to come up with something. Then figure out how to make a rotary cutter nc file and test it out.
I bought a cheap corded die grinder with 1/4 collet. Plan is to adapt that to the Z axis holder in place of plasma torch. The neck is tapered, which ***** and have to come up with something. Then figure out how to make a rotary cutter nc file and test it out.
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Promptly disassembled the new die grinder to chuck the spindle in the lathe. Need to remove the taper on the spindle to make decent contact in the tool holder. I realized I had never needed to use the ID chuck jaw set. They didn't want to line up. Manual has no info on them. Noticed that the backside teeth were different, and jaws numbered. Found a '0' on the chuck and put them in order, ahhhh.
Turned down the business end to fit within the existing torch holder. The 2nd step wasn't really needed.
With some longer SHCSs the spindle fits.
And with that I have a light duty 3-axis CNC router. Added a wedge to space the grinder body out off the tool holder so it's not crooked.
Now to cut a circle on some scrap. I fought with fusion for awhile trying to make a tool path with a end mill type tool. It wouldn't process and provided no info on why. A reminder I know very little about the tool or process. So a hack instead. Made another plasma tool with a 1/4 curf and generated cut file without THC. I manually plunged the bit and ran a 'dry run' which worked ok. Next step is to figure out how to utilize the Z axis for cutting more than one path.
Turned down the business end to fit within the existing torch holder. The 2nd step wasn't really needed.
With some longer SHCSs the spindle fits.
And with that I have a light duty 3-axis CNC router. Added a wedge to space the grinder body out off the tool holder so it's not crooked.
Now to cut a circle on some scrap. I fought with fusion for awhile trying to make a tool path with a end mill type tool. It wouldn't process and provided no info on why. A reminder I know very little about the tool or process. So a hack instead. Made another plasma tool with a 1/4 curf and generated cut file without THC. I manually plunged the bit and ran a 'dry run' which worked ok. Next step is to figure out how to utilize the Z axis for cutting more than one path.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Made a trip to local metal supply to get some more aluminum sheet remnants for door panels. As usual I found other treasures and ended up spending five times what I should have. Two half sheets of 0.050, some 0.080, quarter sheet of 0.125. Then a quart sheet of 0.125 steel, flat bar, tube, and some solid round pucks. The pucks are for the press. Also some 1/2" & 1" aluminum bar to used as welding spacers. Prices aren't going down.
