rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[Bodj Built]

Bumper looks great! I love the tray around the license plate

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks everyone for the comments on the bumper project!

Hurt my back at the gym doing core/back exercises so I don't keep hurting my back. Oh the irony...
Almost healed now. Been puttering away as I can in the shop.
Adding the details to the bumper. Added a receiver tube on the bottom of the step, recessed a bit. I wanted it as low as possible as it's already too high and needs a 12" drop hitch like the bro-dozers. This compromise limits departure angle but usually need more clearance at the ends of the bumper than the middle.

I thought about using a chicom 2-1/2 to 2" adapter sleeve, but found some real made in USA steel with seam carved out at local steel supply (IMS). Fits nice, thicker wall. Instead of a spreader bar to support the receiver, like a typical stand alone hitch, I designed the bumper to support with a brace on the back. Could add one additional piece to complete the box, to make a torque box out of middle section, but I don't think it is needed. I contemplated safety chain attachments and ended up making a simple gusset out of 1/4" to help support. Used a stub of DD steering shaft as guide to cut oval-ish hole with plasma.


Main support is single piece of plate that spans the mount brackets and weld directly to 3 sides of the receiver.


Unfortunately ruff clevis mounts are not sold in a pair, and I mistakenly ordered only one. Dooh! week or 2 delay...
Ready to weld and grind for a few more days. Then paint.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Good luck with the backeotomy!

Bumper is looking good, the hitch looks like it should be pretty solid!

 

[Boosted1]

Bumper work looks really nice.

 

[zmotorsports]

The bumper is looking great Justin. What material thickness are you using? 3/16"?

I like the way you tied the recovery points directly in line with the frame and attachment points as well as being welded from the back side in addition to the outside. That is one of my pet peeves when I see bumpers with recovery points well off of frame line or worse, just welded onto square tubing from the outside. My buddy bought a new bumper a few years ago that the first time he connected to the recover point it tried turning the square tubing back into round tubing as it deformed it.

 

[WoodsTruck]

Your bumper looks awesome.

Your ride height is likely too high for the use of a Hi-Lift jack. When I built the bumpers for my Bronco, I make some lateral retainer blocks under the bottom so as the bumper changed angles as I lifted it, the jack was less likely to slip out.

 

[PugetDude]

Liking that bumper J, nice job bud. That ride is so unique one these days you’ll have a red CC ram pull up next to you making an *** outta himself...just know that’ll be me.

Wouldn’t want you playing out of character, Cam.

 

[LXCam]

Wouldn’t want you playing out of character, Cam.

Yaaaaa- but the difference is he n I haven’t met face to face yet. You already know what you’re getting.

 

[bigguns69]

Nice Card Board Aided Design work.

 

[rattle_snake]

Good luck with the backeotomy!

Bumper is looking good, the hitch looks like it should be pretty solid!

Bumper work looks really nice.

Thanks guys!

The bumper is looking great Justin. What material thickness are you using? 3/16"?

I like the way you tied the recovery points directly in line with the frame and attachment points as well as being welded from the back side in addition to the outside. That is one of my pet peeves when I see bumpers with recovery points well off of frame line or worse, just welded onto square tubing from the outside. My buddy bought a new bumper a few years ago that the first time he connected to the recover point it tried turning the square tubing back into round tubing as it deformed it.

Thanks mike. Yes the recovery points are welded to the frame mounts and the bumper face both. Should be sufficient to give a chevy or a jeep a little tug when needed.

Couldn't really do the same with the front bumper and plan to add reinforcement at some point. Choose aesthetics over function, vanity is a ***** sometimes.

Nice Card Board Aided Design work.

Push keys for a day job so cardboard it is!

 

[Bears Fan]

Amazing job on that bumper!!!

I do have to say that is the best looking cardboard bumper I have ever seen

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I do have to say that is the best looking cardboard bumper I have ever seen

I was also really impressed with your cardboard work.....but didn't want to be the one who said it!

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks guys.
I'll share some tips disguised as general rambling;
- Horde some decent cardboard when you can
- Be patient. Walk away and come back to re-asses the proportions or lines. Be OK with scrap and start over in cardboard.
- heavy metal music at high volume, beverage of choice at appropriate temperate.
- Use 45 or 30/60* angles when possible so math is easy, sqrt, 1.41x
- When using compound angles, leave one at 90*, then come back and do the compound. Then no complex math needed.
- For pieces with no 90*s or parallel edges, measure diagonals and transfer to steel with arcs
- Do not cut steel until you have fit a piece in cardboard, and check fit on both sides
- trig is your friend, online triangle calcs make it easy.
- build on flat table and use straight edge on at least one other plane to keep things square. bench edge can be used. Continuously check and cut tacks as needed to keep square. This is only hope of symmetrical result unless you can clamp whole piece the entire time, which is not really feasible.

 

[rattle_snake]

My teenage daughters aren't into QST w/ dad, well because internet, but last night my younger came out to help. I was quite surprised, usually a visit means they want/need something, toilet clogged, IT support, ect. But she just wanted to spend time, which really made me happy. I try to refrain from excessive technical explanations and let her handle things and do stuff.

Task was to final weld the bumper brackets, but not to repeat overly tight fit like last time due to weld contraction. After short discussion of relevant physics we made a crude press to spread the ends out of a piece of tubing and a bolt/nut. Cut tacks, preload, tack, unload, measure. Burned it in, came out just perfect. I know attention span window is short, so called it a win and went in the house to spend some more time doing her thing.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

My teenage daughters aren't into QST w/ dad, well because internet, but last night my younger came out to help. I was quite surprised, usually a visit means they want/need something, toilet clogged, IT support, ect. But she just wanted to spend time, which really made me happy. I try to refrain from excessive technical explanations and let her handle things and do stuff.

Task was to final weld the bumper brackets, but not to repeat overly tight fit like last time due to weld contraction. After short discussion of relevant physics we made a crude press to spread the ends out of a piece of tubing and a bolt/nut. Cut tacks, preload, tack, unload, measure. Burned it in, came out just perfect. I know attention span window is short, so called it a win and went in the house to spend some more time doing her thing.

That truly is awesome Justin! Both of my girls are out of high school now, the oldest will come drink beer with me occasionally, but has no interest in the actual workings in the shop...always thinks she needs to drive the Z28 or the '49 for some reason, too.

The youngest just graduated high school this Spring and moved out on her own, so she is still doing the "I'm super independent and don't need you" thing. However, she does come around when she needs stuff fixed or wants a good meal, haha.

 

[rattle_snake]

Who wouldn't want to drive either of those? Most 'kids' these days can't drive a manual...

Still welding and grinding on the bumper. I guess having to wait for the other clevis is forcing/allowing me to turd polish far further than normal rush to paint and install. To get a straight, smooth radius, I run the grinder/flap wheel with both side touching along the surface like block sanding to hit the high spots.
Inside radius welds are not ground. Wish I could get better looking results. Key to good welds for me is to be in a comfortable enough position to see and move torch consistently and smoothly. I'm just not good enough in all directions, angles and positions. push right, pull left, directly away blind, and so on. Rotating workpiece helps but some areas are just a pain. In this case there is a ton of weld area so strength is not an issue. If anything, it is over welded by at least 100%.
Emptied another 10# roll of wire and 80 cu ft bottle of C25, so upgraded to a 125. Cable nut on GND clamp came loose and melted insulation off wire, had to cut out heat damaged wire and re-terminate, again. P=I^2R and stuff.

 

[ntsqd]

I'm way too late with this (currently on page 22), but I'll post it for future use. The bung that you welded into the trans pan looks to have had a boss on it that was flush to the inside of the pan. I do this on purpose with bungs in anything that I have inside access to, and add a step. Run a bead around the inside with silicon-bronze filler rod. (yeah, I know, you need a GTAW for that. You needed one anyway, right?)
Then the outside beads can be structural rather than both sealing and structural. I don't usually connect the structural beads, intentionally leave large gaps. First started doing this with 9" drag car axle housing drain bungs and now do it with every bung.

From the way-back, happen to recall a p/n or source for this fuse/relay assembly? There are some similar on amazon, but they're cheap chinesium and only use 5 "sugar cubes". Their 6th relay is a different pin arrangement.

 

[rattle_snake]

Interesting technique on the bung, thanks for sharing. I have a TIG but no S/B rod...

The fuse relay block is this. The plastic box itself and crimps are actually decent quality. Having the right crimper is necessary for good results.

Amazon.com: 12V Auto Waterproof Fuse Relay Box Block [6 Bosch Style Relay Holder] [6 ATC/ATO Fuse Holder] Universal Relay Block Box for 12V Automotive Vehicles Cars Marine Boat Light Equipment: Automotive

Buy 12V Auto Waterproof Fuse Relay Box Block [6 Bosch Style Relay Holder] [6 ATC/ATO Fuse Holder] Universal Relay Block Box for 12V Automotive Vehicles Cars Marine Boat Light Equipment: Fuse Holders - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[ntsqd]

I like using the S-B filler because it flows like brazing and is easier to get a good seal with. It does take a little practice to use because the ideal technique is not the same as GTAW welding, but once you stop trying to melt the base metal it gets easier. Be prepared, the S-B rod isn't cheap.

Thank you for the link!

I still haven't caught up yet, reading about the -3 brake hose/line leak. FWIW I build my own brake hoses. With only one exception all ready-made brake hoses that I have seen have a tiny tube connecting the fitting to the hose under the crimped barrel. Contrast that with the screw-together hose ends being a lot more massive in this critical area. I normally buy one extra of each unique fitting and enough extra hose to make a second of the longest hose on the vehicle. These extras go into a sealed bag ("Seal-A-Meal" when I can) and stay with the vehicle at all times. Been doing this for about 25 years and I've yet to need to ever make a new hose or repair one. In the field or otherwise. In the old days I put adhesive line heat-shrink over the braid to keep grime out of between the braid strands, but now you can buy -3 braided hose with a cover on it for this purpose.

 

[Bodj Built]

As a physics teacher, I love all the random physics/math jargon haha. Keep up the great work! Also, Ram Board from Home Depot works great for templates. Easier to cut than cardboard. About the same thickness as 18G sheet, holds a straight fold and cuts well in the shear

 

[rattle_snake]

As a physics teacher, I love all the random physics/math jargon haha. Keep up the great work! Also, Ram Board from Home Depot works great for templates. Easier to cut than cardboard. About the same thickness as 18G sheet, holds a straight fold and cuts well in the shear

I was wondering what you taught, makes sense given your hobbies. What level do you teach?

Most people including my family are NOT to interested in underlying physics of everyday occurrences.... but I ramble on anyhow.
I try to apply my limited knowledge of statics and dynamics to my bumper project, failure modes, critical points, adding material only in the plane it will help. The 'why' not just more steel/weight everywhere.

 

[Bodj Built]

I was wondering what you taught, makes sense given your hobbies. What level do you teach?

Most people including my family are NOT to interested in underlying physics of everyday occurrences.... but I ramble on anyhow.
I try to apply my limited knowledge of statics and dynamics to my bumper project, failure modes, critical points, adding material only in the plane it will help. The 'why' not just more steel/weight everywhere.

High school! So mostly 11 and 12 grade, with a couple sophomores mixed in.

Yeah I totally get it. For their final project this past year, I had the kids watch a movie of their choice and pick out 3 scenes of good or bad physics, and explain why (qualitatively and quantitatively). It was cool to see the ways they applied what they had learned.

 

[Monza Harry]

Thanks guys!

Should be sufficient to give a chevy or a jeep a little tug when needed.

Couldn't really do the same with the front bumper and plan to add reinforcement at some point. Choose aesthetics over function, vanity is a ***** sometimes.

Push keys for a day job so cardboard it is!

Justin, You should have been able to hear my eyes roll from here, and I am sure I seen Mike "Flip you Off"! So I know you could too!
We understand the customer has to be made happy, even if he is unreasonable! "Vanity Shmanity"

Thanks guys.
I'll share some tips disguised as general rambling;
- Horde some decent cardboard when you can
- Be patient. Walk away and come back to re-asses the proportions or lines. Be OK with scrap and start over in cardboard.
- heavy metal music at high volume, beverage of choice at appropriate temperate.
- Use 45 or 30/60* angles when possible so math is easy, sqrt, 1.41x
- When using compound angles, leave one at 90*, then come back and do the compound. Then no complex math needed.
- For pieces with no 90*s or parallel edges, measure diagonals and transfer to steel with arcs
- Do not cut steel until you have fit a piece in cardboard, and check fit on both sides
- trig is your friend, online triangle calcs make it easy.
- build on flat table and use straight edge on at least one other plane to keep things square. bench edge can be used. Continuously check and cut tacks as needed to keep square. This is only hope of symmetrical result unless you can clamp whole piece the entire time, which is not really feasible.

Someone in my past made a remark about there offsprings age and I knew their age as well, so in 1 sec. or less I commented on their age of conception, to which I felt the "Stink Eye" so my next comment was I can't help it "Math is my Friend!" SOHCAHTOA for those of you trying to learn this thing called Trigonometry! And learn your standard triangle sides, ie; 1,1 root of 2. (Root of 2 = Sin and/or Cos of 45* times 2) [45* Isosceles Triangle 1/2, 0.866, 1 30/60/90 (1/2 of an equilateral triangle) Justin's advice actually becomes easier when you know these, by heart. And just for some added Nightmares, we should throw in Pythagorean's Theorem. These few things will let you calculate 80%+ of your fab numbers

Cable nut on GND clamp came loose and melted insulation off wire, had to cut out heat damaged wire and re-terminate, again. P=I^2R and stuff.

Ohm's Law to the rescue! I wanted to be an engineer when I grew up but the finances , weren't shining in my favour, so If I ever grow up maybe I still can be. Almost 60 so I'm not holding my breath, Oh, like I could LOL! Gasp pass the O2
Now i want to teach again, Please just shoot me now don't wait 'til we get home! Harry

 

[cspcrx]

Love the CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) work! Amazing how well that works for projects.

 

[rattle_snake]

Hey Harry, yes you described my point with standard triangles well.
But, growing up isn't as fun as it should be, some never do. Engineering is not as glorious as it sounds, there is plenty of boring documentation, failures and meetings.

CRX, old school CAD works well because it is a 'verification step'. Does it fit? Does it look right?

 

[rattle_snake]

Finished up the rear bumper project, almost. Needs some shims to level, hog out some holes. Overall a decent fit on a crooked old truck.

Ended up adding some bracing inside the bumper to prevent the structure from deforming. I believe that failure from hitch overload would want to fold bumper in half, to unfold the step portion, so added 2 vertical supports right at the seam of the bottom pieces. This further supports license plate section also. Given vertical rear support, there are 3 chambers that would hold water, so I drilled drain holes. Seems silly here in AZ, but did it anyhow, because OCD.


Can now see tank, shackles, diff, tires and exhaust that old bumper covered up as it sat so low. Now need to modify tailpipe, likely just slash cut the end until complete re-do.


The tank is still protected somewhat by the departure angle limit of the new bumper. Bumper ends are at about 33" from ground, top of bumper is at 38" or so. Easy step up for anyone over 6'10" and under 30 yrs old.


I contemplated cutting off the lower bedsides an making the bumper sides extend all the way forward to the wheel well. As tuff and off-roady as that looks, it doesn't go with my goal of stock-ish sheet metal. So other than modifying (cut/hammering) the ends up a bit, I build bumper around the bed. The trim exits the endcap decently, so happy with result. plan to keep the trim at this time.
In the future I plan to build a mostly hidden slider in the area. More to come on that.


Added a reinforcement ring around receiver out of 1/4" x 1" flat bar. Gives a more typical and robust look, and supports the business end a bit more.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Justin, the bumper looks great! Definitely flows with the lines, and the color blends in well.

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks Marc.
Repurposed the old into a shelf

 

[OutlawDrifter]

I dig it! Make a receiver hitch beer holder

 

[zmotorsports]

I dig it! Make a receiver hitch beer holder

Or use the receiver to mount an over the bench work light.

 

[cspcrx]

Hey Harry, yes you described my point with standard triangles well.
But, growing up isn't as fun as it should be, some never do. Engineering is not as glorious as it sounds, there is plenty of boring documentation, failures and meetings.

CRX, old school CAD works well because it is a 'verification step'. Does it fit? Does it look right?

totally agree. Been working with a friend helping him develop a new motor mount kit all through CAD. Works awesome

 

[stinkity stoink]

Bumper looks great , excellent job !!!

 

[rattle_snake]

I dig it! Make a receiver hitch beer holder

Great minds think alike.. an old school dual swivel beer holder like you would find on a boat would look at home

Or use the receiver to mount an over the bench work light.

Considered under lighting the whole length with LEDs. Just tap into power supply form sign above. My old man eyes could use one of those arm mounted magnifying glass though..

I mistakenly bought a set of bi-focal safety glasses at LWS, they are handy but have never worn glasses or bi-focals so they are annoying to wear at this point. Can use them under welding hood too. Cheating.

totally agree. Been working with a friend helping him develop a new motor mount kit all through CAD. Works awesome

Bumper looks great , excellent job !!!

Thanks guys. Got it shimmed and adjusted properly. It's done until I start on the side sliders.

 

[rattle_snake]

Farted around this weekend on some small projects. Looked through stack of vehicle maintenance logs to find worst offender, which was Cobra oil change. Only logged 3333 miles since last service in May of '19. So knocked that out. Rear tires have same mileage, been in wear bars all year but will run them into the cords, as they hook the same.

Turd polished the 72 Ford's tailpipe. The whole thing was a quick band-aid fix for fuel boil issue. With new bumper the pipe could be seen, so too crude and out of place. So I simply did a slash cut and ground the visible seams, now it is not in view.


Touched up paint with some help from paint crew. Was raining, don't paint in rain much but dried in 15 min anyhow.


Looking better.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Definitely a cleaner, stealthier look!

I'd give anything for some of that arid weather right now...yesterday was so balmy I couldn't bring myself to mow the yard...

 

[rattle_snake]

I bought a 4 pack of surface mount LED lights for rear bumper license plate illumination, so had some extras for step courtesy lights. I drew up an elaborate schematic to allow them and dome to work semi-isolate like a new car, but ended keeping it simple and just wiring together. Also replaced the old 1003 bulb with a 1156 LED. Total dome light current went from 850mA to 170mA for all three.

 

[ntsqd]

I found some .750" rubber 'torsion' mount LED lights like those sold as ICC Clearance lights, but in white light. I've been thinking to put one or two in the bottom of the Blanc-Oh's doors and tie them into the existing courtesy light wiring in the door. Also tempted to put 2-4 of them under the rear bumper facing down for "Malibu Lighting" when camping or working out of the truck after dark.
Like these: https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...-connector-1-led/5707/13161/#/attributes/1222


Sig file found on the GFB forum:

"My car is a hybrid; it burns gas and rubber."

Somehow seemed appropriate here.

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks for sharing the link. I would also like to put some down facing lights at rear bumper for ambient lighting while camping. Run them off isolated battery with audio system.

 

[rattle_snake]

Step in hydraulic hose gurus...

I need to make some power steering hoses for hydro boost conversion. Don't know much about hoses, fitting in general. I found some online places that make to order. Considering that, however length and fitting clocking is unknown until installation time, which will make truck not drivable for some time. Can't find metric o-ring hose ends so looks like adapters are needed. Most go to AN6.
Not sure which hose type to use. looks like SAE100R2 is common. 100R17 is similar but more flexible, not sure if R2 fitting work on it.

So also considering field attachable/reusable ends, so I can buy a length of hose and build in place when time comes. The fitting selection is more limited, JIC, NTPF. Would use JIC female 90's and adapters everywhere.

R2-06-666 | 90° 3/8" Hose x 3/8" JIC Female (Steel)

Check out the deal on R2-06-666 | 90° 3/8" Hose x 3/8" JIC Female (Steel) at DiscountHydraulicHose.com

www.discounthydraulichose.com

Yet another option is to buy crimp on ends and have local hose shop do the crimping.

Here is the system, need a 90* at all ends.
Hose #1
pump outlet = 3/8 inverted flare (5/8-18)
HB in = 18mm x 1.5 o-ring
Hose #2
HB out 16mm x 1.5 o-ring
Steering gear in 5/16 inverted flare (1/2-20)

opinions, experiences?

 

[bradpac]

Step in hydraulic hose gurus...

Not a guru, but I have had a few hoses made. I've always had the best luck getting crimped on ones made locally. I have bought fittings, both local and online and gotten my hose, cut everything clocked the ends and marked them and taken the assemblies back to the hydraulic shop for crimping.