rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[cspcrx]

Well I got the newer master cylinder installed, but was unsuccessful in getting air out of system until I ran out of fluid. I tried to use vacuum method, then the 2-man pump the pedal method.


Astute readers may notice that this tooling is simply a moonshine jar and beer keg tubing. The fittings on the lid are backwards in this photo.

I have tried a few pump methods and none seem to ever work as well as the old school two person process. Bleeding brakes just never fun and seems nothing as made it a true one man job as much as they claim.

 

[ntsqd]

I used a calibration gas bottle, a low pressure regulator, some fittings and some 3/8" SS tube to build a pressure bleeder when I had to purge the DOT 5 from the Bronc-up's brakes. The Cal gas bottle is a bit big. Were I building another I'd use a small fire extinguisher that had a metal valve/nozzle assembly.
I removed a bleed ****** and coated it's threads with brake assembly lube and screwed it back in almost bottomed. I then hose clamped the discharge tube from the bottle to the bleed screw, connected the regulator to compressed air, and slowly ran the pressure up to about 5 psi.
A turkey baster to remove excess brake fluid from the reservoir let me push first ISO-Propyl Alcohol thru the system and then when the IPA was coming thru clean I switched to DOT 5.1 brake fluid. Easy to do this all by myself.

Prior to building that I built the "Peanut Butter Bleeder" (a certain jimmy buffet song pops into my head... ) Epoxy two pieces of 1/8" copper tube into the lid of a large peanut butter jar. A long piece that nearly reaches the bottom of the jar, and a short piece. I gently make the first part of a double flare on the ends of such tubes. Connect ~30" of vacuum tubing to the long piece of copper and ~20 feet of vacuum tubing to the short piece of copper tube. Connect the other end of the long hose to manifold vacuum and the shorter hose to a bleed ******. Fill jar with brake fluid to a little above the bottom of the longer piece of copper tubing. Same deal, brake assembly lube in the threads keeps you from seeing "false" bubbles.
Start engine.
Crack open connected bleed ******.

 

[rattle_snake]

..I removed a bleed ****** and coated it's threads with brake assembly lube..

I think this is the key here. Else the system cavitates on air drawn in past threads. Fluid comes out, but not all the air.
Noted for next time, which will be soon enough. Thanks nt^2.

 

[Trapps]

Congrats on the bull!

 

[ntsqd]

Forgot to mention that you can use the peanut butter bleeder sort of like a 'speed-bleeder' in that with the long tube under the fluid surface you can gently pump the pedal w/o worrying about the pedal release drawing air back into the system. Pause at the bottom of the stroke to let all of the bubbles escape the tubing.

But yeah, sealing the bleeder screw threads is key to no air getting back into the system or not seeing air that was drawn in past the threads turn up looking bubbles from out of the actual system.

A footnote, I have used silicone dielectric grease on these threads as sometimes brake assembly lube is impossible to find. I'm not 100% convinced that it's safe for brake system rubber so I'll only suggest it and not recommend it. When I do use it I am extremely careful to only get it in the outer half of the threads. Regular petroleum based grease is a very definite no-no on/in brake parts.

 

[Ohmthis]

Forgot to mention that you can use the peanut butter bleeder sort of like a 'speed-bleeder' in that with the long tube under the fluid surface you can gently pump the pedal w/o worrying about the pedal release drawing air back into the system. Pause at the bottom of the stroke to let all of the bubbles escape the tubing.

But yeah, sealing the bleeder screw threads is key to no air getting back into the system or not seeing air that was drawn in past the threads turn up looking bubbles from out of the actual system.

A footnote, I have used silicone dielectric grease on these threads as sometimes brake assembly lube is impossible to find. I'm not 100% convinced that it's safe for brake system rubber so I'll only suggest it and not recommend it. When I do use it I am extremely careful to only get it in the outer half of the threads. Regular petroleum based grease is a very definite no-no on/in brake parts.

I don’t use grease on brake parts (that’s why they make brake lubricants right). But could you please explain why it’s a no no? Knowledge is king and I love learning. Thanks!

 

[ntsqd]

What I've been told is that the rubber polymers used in brake parts don't play well with petrochemicals and tend to be dissolved or partly dissolved by them.

 

[csp]

A footnote, I have used silicone dielectric grease on these threads as sometimes brake assembly lube is impossible to find. I'm not 100% convinced that it's safe for brake system rubber so I'll only suggest it and not recommend it. When I do use it I am extremely careful to only get it in the outer half of the threads. Regular petroleum based grease is a very definite no-no on/in brake parts.

So is brake assembly lube synonymous with brake and caliper grease like this:? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000M8Q234/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I did the brakes on a neighbor's '78 F150 and couldn't get the air to stop getting past the bleeder threads a couple of years ago. I got frustrated with it and very carefully put a couple wraps of teflon tape on the threads. I know it's not wise, but I was very careful that none of it entered the pressure lines.

 

[cspcrx]

Funny they say not to use teflon tape yet Wilwood tells you to when installing the line adapter into the caliper.. just upgraded the brakes on my track car to a Wilwood 4 piston aluminum caliper and that’s how they advised sealing it.

air getting around the bleed screw is the issue I run into as well. Try and play a game of opening it less but then it’s not enough to pull fluid and as soon as it is I get small bubbles from around the bleed screw. May try the Teflon.

 

[Monza Harry]

I had a vehicle that was giving me "$#!+ fits" trying to get a pedal, in the end I bought a new bleeder screw [way harder than I thought that should be BTW] and drilled through it to get as seal, resumed hand vac. pump and just one quick round with a helper to remove any air from changing the screw back. Just a thought for your [collective] assessment/possible use. Result was somewhat acceptable as brakes were never that cars strong point. Come to think about it I don't recall it having a strong point! Harry
P.S. I don't want to admit to having even sat in one! [embarrassed face here!]

 

[ntsqd]

So is brake assembly lube synonymous with brake and caliper grease like this:? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000M8Q234/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I did the brakes on a neighbor's '78 F150 and couldn't get the air to stop getting past the bleeder threads a couple of years ago. I got frustrated with it and very carefully put a couple wraps of teflon tape on the threads. I know it's not wise, but I was very careful that none of it entered the pressure lines.

That grease might work, but I won't suggest it because I have no experience with it. It is not the same as assembly lube.

More like these are what I am suggesting:

Welcome to RV and Auto Parts - Great Selection at Friendly Prices

Amazon.com: Centric (500.1000 Brake Assembly Lube : Automotive

Amazon.com: Centric (500.1000 Brake Assembly Lube : Automotive

www.amazon.com

I was taught to apply teflon tape at a job where we were building emergency breathing air systems for off-shore oil rigs. The rules were one full starting thread of the fitting exposed and no more than three wraps applied in the direction of tightening the fitting. Something that those of us Left-Handed have a rare advantage in doing.

 

[rattle_snake]

Swapped out the rear wheel cylinders again, to the smallest I could find, 7/8" bore. This is another -24% from current (1") and -40% from the original (1-1/8).
Results were noticeable, I get just a slight amount of rear lock up at end of max braking from high speed. I estimate being able to use 90-95+% of available front brake capacity. This is with Prop valve at max still. So I'm happy with performance at this time.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Chalk it up as a win!

Are temps starting to get bearable again in your area?

 

[rattle_snake]

Chalk it up as a win!

Are temps starting to get bearable again in your area?

Yes going to call it a victory. Overall the improvement is very significant. It has braking capacity of a modern vehicle minus ABS, even on 4-D's. Should be nice offroad with minimal pedal effort.

Summer appears to be complete for this year. Trying to get garden in now. Went boat camping for the first time in awhile. Beach is back open after fires and flooding. Was able to launch boat from campsite. Was in the low 80s, no need for generator or A/C. Could even have a fire. Been 2 years of fire restrictions.

 

[rattle_snake]

Been helping my neighbor with his overland upgrades. He put in a few weeks of long days in my shop. His OCD is far worse than mine. The camper shell and rack were literally falling apart. We re-secured, resealed and painted the camper, and build a new roof rack out of aluminum. Now that I can weld much better, using the spool gun was easy. Got it dialed in and buzzed it all up nicely. The new rack is more of an exo-cage, as it bolts to inner structure with many large bolts on all pieces. The old was was held on by a few sheet metal screws.


He replaced a large folding clamshell type roof top tent with a motorized one. This cause significant scope creep and many other custom bracket and features were built from scratch. Table mount, awning, new fridge and slide assembly, new solar setup and so on. Everything barely clears by fractions of an inch in many places.

Push was to get new gear on for trip to Mexico. Weigh in was 8150 lbs. 4 ton Tacoma.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

8150...good lord, that's more than my 3/4t Suburban!

Was this the same one waiting to put the supercharger on his 4.0l? At that weight, I would think he would need all he can squeeze!

 

[zmotorsports]

Holy ****, 4+ tons???? And I thought mine was heavy.

 

[rattle_snake]

That is after weight reduction from lighter tent, lighter drawer system and less 'stuff'. Truck sees some fairly difficult trails and a lot of dirt road miles with that load. It has taken it toll on the body, frame and axles. Repairs, reinforcements.

Undercarriage is covered in thick skid plates that weight it down and make it ride low, hence need for them. It's on 35s now after extensive suspension and frame work. IFS has everything possible done to it. 4.56 ARBs. Like me, he likes the 'build' part of the adventure. Overkill engineering, haha.

I can't really talk as my 2014 F250 is 8400# empty and 11000+ with the Lance. Plus a 7k boat.

 

[ntsqd]

Change out the skids for those made from 7075 T6 if the budget is there or 6061 T6 if the budget is more ordinary. Uncommon to see steel skid-plates under professionally built desert race vehicles, more common to see them under rock crawlers, which an "Overlander" is not.
If steel is still desired then change the alloy to stuff like Core-10 or Ten-X. These are HSLA's that are designed for abrasion and impact, and can be made from thinner stock without giving up strength.

 

[rattle_snake]

I think he will have to stick with what he has for now, todo list of other items is long. Including building a shop.

 

[ntsqd]

oh yeah, I get that to-do list thing.....

 

[rattle_snake]

Made time to detail the Cobra and do some maintenance. Been just driving it, having trouble giving it the care it deserves.
Cleaned up paint with some clay and did a wax. Put car on lift to do the lower parts, so much easier on my back. Serviced the air filter while on lift, else it is not really accessible. Filter is in fender. Found loose hose clamp on intake post-MAF, so unmetered air getting in. Funny how aftermarket stuff is just not as robust as OEM.
It's ready for rear tires, one has tread separation and shake badly above 55. But can't buy any drag radial in that size, so have to wait and not drive much for next 3 months. Such is life.
Looking good for 17 years and 58k miles.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Car definitely looks good!

Mines about 3-4 weeks from a winter snooze...

 

[LXCam]

What size are you running - 17”?

 

[rattle_snake]

What size are you running - 17”?

Yes, factory Ford 17x9 on the front, and aftermarket 17x10.5 out back. I need a 315/35-17 drag radial.

 

[LXCam]

Welllll, about those DR’s - I might know a guy

 

[PugetDude]

He didn't say drag queen, Cam.

 

[LXCam]

He didn't say drag queen, Cam.

I figured Justin might need some help dressing up his ride sooooo

Don’t judge.

 

[rattle_snake]

Car definitely looks good!

Mines about 3-4 weeks from a winter snooze...

I would struggle with having to miss out on hot rod shenanigans all winter.
I grew up in cold wet rainy Washington. Roads were wet 300 days of the year. No traction. Low speed limits. Lots of cops with speeding as #1 objective. Seemed like a terrible place to own anything with power. So I moved 1600 miles south, problem solved.
But any climate has it's drawbacks. Riding a motorcycle here in the summer isn't much fun.

But I could see how some slight modifications would allow 12 months of fun

 

[rattle_snake]

Welllll, about those DR’s - I might know a guy

Dang you've got all the good connections, sent you a txt.. Thanks!

 

[rattle_snake]

Not a lot going on in the shop last few months. Lots going on with family and kid activities. Been working on the backyard landscaping as time allows, pics of that over in my shop build thread. Trying to leave the '72 Ford in one piece so I can enjoy it.

Made a simple mount for elk antlers out of a 14" saw blade. I may change my mind and do something else in the future.

 

[zmotorsports]

Good for you Justin. Taking time to enjoy the fruits of your labor and especially family, is paramount in why we do what we do. I go through phases of work throughout the year of when I tackle larger jobs and when I just "maintain" our assets so my wife and I can enjoy them. Jeeping and RV'ing season is just maintaining to enjoy and winter is upgrade and/or modification time, if needed.

 

[Ohmthis]

I learned by watching what “not” to do from my late step dad with family. He work every opportunity even though we had more than enough. When he passed away my youngest brother didn’t have many memories of fun family time with him. I was 26 and swore to myself I’d never be like that. Kudos to you for being a father to your kids. There will be time for projects and playing soon enough.

 

[rattle_snake]

Allocating time between wife, kids, friends, maintenance, property upkeep, and projects I actually want to wok on is always difficult, as my time is limited. Just can't do it all, something has to slip, someone disappointed. Never ending migraine headaches complicate further, don't want to make plans, or suffer through whatever activity. Such is life.

 

[rattle_snake]

Mrs rattle_snake and I took the old Ford on a horse ride for our 17th anniversary. Truck did good other than a wiring issue with trailer. Drove well with load. The big tires and 4.10 gearing didn't like the extra 5k of weight but moved things OK. Have to take it slow and gentle with animals in the trailer anyhow. We stopped for lunch and beverages, and had a nice cool ride home with A/C. Got lots of looks and thumbs up on the trip.
Goal was to still have useful truck capabilities even with 40s and flexy suspension. It does it all, although not as well as a modern truck, but I'm happy with result.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Happy anniversary! Mrs. Rattlesnake looks happy, happy wife, happy life!

Glad the ol Ford did the job, you've definitely got that Cali squat with the trailer and hay burners.

Feeling any better?

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks Marc. Never a more true statement.

The tires looked pretty mushy loaded so I checked pressure a few days later and found they were at only 12 psi. The big contact patch on the 40x13.50s don't need much air to hold up a lot of weight. Max is only 35 psi. This trailer has a lot of tongue weight empty or loaded.

Still fatigued from the 'Rona last month. But hard to tell with 24/7 migraines. Tried all sorts of tests and treatments over the last year, nothing has helped. Continuing to peruse any and every option. Saw yet another type of doc this week (ENT) and I think he finally diagnosed my type of migraine, related to inner ear. Vertigo, dizzy, nausea. Basically I've been sea sick for 2 years. Hopefully now with a more specific target a effective treatment may be found. Perhaps the reason I also have bad spasms.

Trying to have some type of shop project going for my sanity, so started on the outdoor sink project. Scribbled up a set of plans and picked out some old boards from my stash. I had one long 2x6 left so I hacked it up for the legs and found that it is walnut. Plan is to build a base cabinet with a concrete counter top. Weathered wood, rusty metal like the other stuff in the area.

 

[PugetDude]

Justin, Glad to hear you may be seeing the light at the end of the tunnel on the migraines.
Outdoor sink project lools interesting, will check back for updates.

 

[ntsqd]

A fellow migraine sufferer here, has your diet been looked at? I've learned to avoid vasal dilators like Anise, cilantro, and similar. I've never researched it, but I think that Hops might also be a vasal dilator. I do know that more than a simple sip of beer, of any type, sets off a migraine in me.

 

[Swanny1953]

Justin, just spent a bunch of time reading through your thread end to end. First off, congrats on the anniversary!! My bride and I will hit 38 this coming summer. Seems only yesterday . . . . . .
Thanks for sharing all your projects with us. I particularly impressed with all the changes you made to your Ford to get it to the shape it's in today. It just doesn't seem like you let anything get in the way of your vision!