lilscorpion
Well-known member
Slick idea on the bump stops. Adjustability is king!
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rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1
- Thread starter rattle_snake
- Start date
plain2car
Well-known member
Justin, that is a very cool sign & nice job on the bump stops as well. I am beginning the process of seeing about getting us "garage heads" on the east side together ("west siders" welcome too) for a meet and greet! LOL. Let me know your thoughts on this idea....
ntsqd
Well-known member
Friend of mine did the same with the bumps in his Scout 80 build. I thought it pretty clever.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Sounds like a great idea!Justin, that is a very cool sign & nice job on the bump stops as well. I am beginning the process of seeing about getting us "garage heads" on the east side together ("west siders" welcome too) for a meet and greet! LOL. Let me know your thoughts on this idea....
That is quite the scout build, I like it.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
72 Ford suspension work is on hold as I try to make sure I'm not overlooking some aspect that will cause re-work. Engineering analysis paralysis they say...
So puttering on some other things. Made a super simple frame for a sand blasted sign my friend made long ago. I made this frame jig at least 15 years ago and as crude as it is, it still works fine.
Black letters are hard to read but it is what it is.
ALL fishermen are liars except you and me, and I'm not sure about you!
Stone is secured on back side with 1/2 x 1/2 aluminum angle.
So puttering on some other things. Made a super simple frame for a sand blasted sign my friend made long ago. I made this frame jig at least 15 years ago and as crude as it is, it still works fine.
Black letters are hard to read but it is what it is.
ALL fishermen are liars except you and me, and I'm not sure about you!
Stone is secured on back side with 1/2 x 1/2 aluminum angle.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Been slowly reorganizing the shop including tool boxes and cabinets. Not sure why now, as I have not had any interest in doing so since I moved my junk in 6 years ago. Now as I see things that don't belong together I move then as needed so I won't be able to find them later.
Also purging stuff and realizing I have enough space, just need to organize a bit more.
Still contemplating a small HF side cabinet on dirty side of shop to store all the welding and cutting supplies.
Also purging stuff and realizing I have enough space, just need to organize a bit more.
Still contemplating a small HF side cabinet on dirty side of shop to store all the welding and cutting supplies.
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
It's a slow process Justin, and I blame you for my recent quest in organization and thinning of "stuff". 
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Glad I can provide inspiration. Too hot outside to do much other than have-to's.It's a slow process Justin, and I blame you for my recent quest in organization and thinning of "stuff".
Dogs have been helping out as much as they can, mostly inspection, which isn't much more than laying around.
Yes my girls painted nails pink even on Mr. big tuff guy.
Thanks! Feels good to finally do something with stuff I can't quite throw away....Very cool sign
I re-arranged the wall art in a few places including a place for the new one.
Excuse the excessive clutter.
Deprecated wake boards have come down, to make a bench out of them, a project that has been put off for many moons.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Procrastinating on committing to finial welding on bump stops. So hacked up and modified HF tool holder in wrench drawers.
For the 'Murican drawer, cut out some of tooling provisions to make room for the big 1-1/4" and hex keys. Added some angle to keep the nut drivers in place when shutting drawer.
Similar for the communist drawer. extended the racks for combo and line sets from the pieces I cut out.
Note none of my wrench sets match, and most are cheap junk, HF included. They have been getting the job done for decades so I'm happy enough. I tend to buy tooIs I don't have (or knew that existed, thanks @zmotorsports) instead of upgrading what already gets the job done.
Note the bent 13mm, Used a Looooong pipe extension to get some 12 pt. driveshaft bolts off 20 years ago.
I worked as a professional mechanic for a short time. Most guys had high end tools but poor skills and attitude. The expensive box and tools did not help keep them employed or out of debt.
For the 'Murican drawer, cut out some of tooling provisions to make room for the big 1-1/4" and hex keys. Added some angle to keep the nut drivers in place when shutting drawer.
Similar for the communist drawer. extended the racks for combo and line sets from the pieces I cut out.
Note none of my wrench sets match, and most are cheap junk, HF included. They have been getting the job done for decades so I'm happy enough. I tend to buy tooIs I don't have (or knew that existed, thanks @zmotorsports) instead of upgrading what already gets the job done.
Note the bent 13mm, Used a Looooong pipe extension to get some 12 pt. driveshaft bolts off 20 years ago.
I worked as a professional mechanic for a short time. Most guys had high end tools but poor skills and attitude. The expensive box and tools did not help keep them employed or out of debt.
lilscorpion
Well-known member
I’m random as hell as to when I decide to organize. Think it’s more a break for me than “the next thing”. Or so it seems…Been slowly reorganizing the shop including tool boxes and cabinets. Not sure why now, as I have not had any interest in doing so since I moved my junk in 6 years ago. Now as I see things that don't belong together I move then as needed so I won't be able to find them later.
Also purging stuff and realizing I have enough space, just need to organize a bit more.
Still contemplating a small HF side cabinet on dirty side of shop to store all the welding and cutting supplies.
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Procrastinating on committing to finial welding on bump stops. So hacked up and modified HF tool holder in wrench drawers.
For the 'Murican drawer, cut out some of tooling provisions to make room for the big 1-1/4" and hex keys. Added some angle to keep the nut drivers in place when shutting drawer.
Similar for the communist drawer. extended the racks for combo and line sets from the pieces I cut out.
Note none of my wrench sets match, and most are cheap junk, HF included. They have been getting the job done for decades so I'm happy enough. I tend to buy tooIs I don't have (or knew that existed, thanks @zmotorsports) instead of upgrading what already gets the job done.
Note the bent 13mm, Used a Looooong pipe extension to get some 12 pt. driveshaft bolts off 20 years ago.
I worked as a professional mechanic for a short time. Most guys had high end tools but poor skills and attitude. The expensive box and tools did not help keep them employed or out of debt.
I too used HF stuff for I can’t even remember how long. A wrench is a wrench. I was told the big difference was SO’s open end would hold up better…so I stopped using the open end on wrenches unless I had to and even then it was to just hold the other side of the bolt when I loosen it with an impact.
Short version is - meh.
PhantomEB
Well-known member
Hmmm just maybe when my under table box goes to my moms, I will put a dog bed in its spot. Nerf to put a secondary shelf between though!
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Had truck and boat out to the lake so got some pics of cabinet org, as it is such an exciting subject!
Ended up being on the giving end of a 5 mile tow back to main launch. Usually I'm on the other end, so figured I would take the karma points. 454 chugged away at 1800 RPM for an hour.
'Paint' cabinet had lower half of random wood and metal remnants. So moved that junk out and added shelving for more paint stuff that was scattered about. Even some open space to fill.
'Fluid' cabinet got cleaned out, tools and random stuff gone. Have almost a whole empty shelf.
Haven't done anything yet with center cabinet. Lot of room for consolidation and improvement. Maybe more shelving.
Ended up being on the giving end of a 5 mile tow back to main launch. Usually I'm on the other end, so figured I would take the karma points. 454 chugged away at 1800 RPM for an hour.
'Paint' cabinet had lower half of random wood and metal remnants. So moved that junk out and added shelving for more paint stuff that was scattered about. Even some open space to fill.
'Fluid' cabinet got cleaned out, tools and random stuff gone. Have almost a whole empty shelf.
Haven't done anything yet with center cabinet. Lot of room for consolidation and improvement. Maybe more shelving.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
After a 2nd look wasn't quite happy with placement of bump cans so popped them off. They were angled out to much, turn out the frame rails are angled in at top 2-3*, so the added 2.5* of brackets was too much. So disassembled them, cut the side pieces parallel to remove the angle, and rewelded. Also added a brace to the bottom only with an opening to allow rocks and water to exit.
Same for other side. Given the axle moves laterally with height change, the right side is out a bit farther. Put the bump tubes in the lathe and gave them a polish, then clear coat to make them look like fake air bumps, bro.
Going to try some new foam bumps after a look here:
accutuneoffroad.com
-If you don’t have room for air bumps, foam urethane bumps stops are a great choice.
-Foam urethane isn’t tuneable like air bumps, but their progressive nature makes them more comfortable when frequently contacted near ride height. Foam urethane is also less durable.
They are much softer than the poly bumps I had, will see how they work. Same 3/8-16 mount so easy to swap.
Welded up the mounts, but used restraint. Did not weld can tube to bottom brace, and only welded 1" on each corner so I can cut can off and move if needed. I think 4" of linear weld is close to 1 sq in, so 60,000 tensile, which should be plenty. Then some paint inside and out before welding them on to the frame.
Tacked back on for further analysis paralysis. Final welded contact pads on radius arm brackets. trimmed weld to make sure 7/8 socket still fits.
So just final weld and test-n-tune left to go.
Same for other side. Given the axle moves laterally with height change, the right side is out a bit farther. Put the bump tubes in the lathe and gave them a polish, then clear coat to make them look like fake air bumps, bro.
Going to try some new foam bumps after a look here:
Go Fast Suspension Design Article | AccuTune Off-Road
Tips and rules of thumb to follow for designing your suspension to go fast. Get the most out of your suspension & Drive Like A Pro with AccuTune.
accutuneoffroad.com
-Foam urethane isn’t tuneable like air bumps, but their progressive nature makes them more comfortable when frequently contacted near ride height. Foam urethane is also less durable.
They are much softer than the poly bumps I had, will see how they work. Same 3/8-16 mount so easy to swap.
Welded up the mounts, but used restraint. Did not weld can tube to bottom brace, and only welded 1" on each corner so I can cut can off and move if needed. I think 4" of linear weld is close to 1 sq in, so 60,000 tensile, which should be plenty. Then some paint inside and out before welding them on to the frame.
Tacked back on for further analysis paralysis. Final welded contact pads on radius arm brackets. trimmed weld to make sure 7/8 socket still fits.
So just final weld and test-n-tune left to go.
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
I thought you were a Krylon snob?! What's with all the Rust-Oleum??
Bump stops look good, I like the clear coated aluminum/black visual.
Bump stops look good, I like the clear coated aluminum/black visual.
Bodj Built
Well-known member
Looks great! Foam bumps work great. They work well over shock shafts. I'm actually running both foam and hydro bumps on my truck since the shock bumps before the hydro bump when articulating.
ntsqd
Well-known member
Most hydro-bump mfg's say (or at least used to say) to not make their bump the last word in limiting up travel, that there should be a 'normal' bump-stop that stops up travel before the hydro goes solid.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nice job on the adjustable bump stops Justin. Isn't fine tuning the suspension for uptravel/droop fun? But it's well worth it when everything works as it should with maximum travel and NO rubbing or contact.
But it's well worth it when everything works as it should with maximum travel and NO rubbing or contact.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Yes, yes I am.
Unfortunately Home Depot sells Rusto so I have collected random colors for wife/kid projects.
I just recently found shaft bumps, didn't know they existed. Interesting, thanks for sharing, I wonder if they could help my situation....
My bumps are set only for articulation, to keep tire out of fender. I out boarded them specifically to address this. So normal up travel suffers. The coil overs are still out farther than bumps so maybe there is something to gain.
I assume the shocks have to come apart to install them.
Thanks Mike. I do enjoy suspension work, the math, and finding improvements. Been going slow and making sure everything is exactly perfect and how I want it, even if it's not quite right, haha.Nice job on the adjustable bump stops Justin. Isn't fine tuning the suspension for uptravel/droop fun?
Next step is to re-tune.
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zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I hear ya Justin. I had been asked repeatedly why I was spending so much time making small adjustments to my Jeep's suspension where most people just bolt a kit on and go. I tried explaining that a bolt on kit is a compromise and seeing as how my suspension system is far from a bolt on off the shelf kit, I wanted to spend the time to ensure I had the absolute most travel out of my setup. It is definitely worth it as I grin like an idiot when I crawl over things without anything rubbing and especially not hearing that obnoxious noise of a tire catching a fender but knowing I am within less than a quarter of an inch of making contact.
Where your setup is completely custom I can see where you must feel the same way.
Where your setup is completely custom I can see where you must feel the same way.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Finished welding the bump mounts to the frame so fab job is done and drove the truck today.
I welded about 2/3 of the seam length, with vertical up welds. They are ugly but hot and deep.
I also added 1/2" of preload to coil overs (1/4" to 3/4") to raise ride height for more vertical up travel. So hope to get a total of 1" more bump gap with out-boarded mounts and ride change. 5"+ down and 3.5 up.
Need to test and tune bump height.
I did a full brake inspection, but now brakes are now pulling to left, so perhaps I overheated brake fluid welding so close to the mount and lines. Heated frame and whatnot. On left side I welded only half and waited for things to cool. Guess I'll bleed the right side and see what happens.
I welded about 2/3 of the seam length, with vertical up welds. They are ugly but hot and deep.
I also added 1/2" of preload to coil overs (1/4" to 3/4") to raise ride height for more vertical up travel. So hope to get a total of 1" more bump gap with out-boarded mounts and ride change. 5"+ down and 3.5 up.
Need to test and tune bump height.
I did a full brake inspection, but now brakes are now pulling to left, so perhaps I overheated brake fluid welding so close to the mount and lines. Heated frame and whatnot. On left side I welded only half and waited for things to cool. Guess I'll bleed the right side and see what happens.
Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
I'd run it as is and see how it works out; I think it's a cool idea you came up with. If you're not jumping it, you should be good to go.
The foam bumps come standard on a lot of UTV's. They're easiest to put on when you have them apart and the piston and seal head removed. I guess you could pull the lower spring retainers and eyelets off the shafts, but those are usually held on with some good retaining compound.
The foam bumps come standard on a lot of UTV's. They're easiest to put on when you have them apart and the piston and seal head removed. I guess you could pull the lower spring retainers and eyelets off the shafts, but those are usually held on with some good retaining compound.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
OK thanks for the info on the install. Will see how new mods work first.
But
Unfortunately had low fuel pressure problem on way home yesterday. Died at stoplight. Luckily I had recently labeled all the fuses and relays and had a jumper in the box. Jumped the pump but wouldn't get more than 20 psi, would fire but not run.
Grabbed a strap and got a tow out of intersection to nearest parking lot. Was fairly hot 110, so went to work diagnosing. Was happy to have an old towel to lay on and decent tools. Could hear and feel pump run. Nothing out of return line. Pinched off return hose, but wouldn't build pressure. Hmm. Cracked supply post filter and had some pressure, enough for a hot fuel shower. So regulator is doing what it should, but not enough pump pressure/flow to regulate above 20. Also won't hold prime. Thinking either leak in fuel line between pump and fuel hat/sender unit or faulty pump. Next step is to drop tank, so hopeless and called for tow truck.
So that is 0 tows in first 30 years of driving and 3 so far this year.
Last time I drove it was 100+ mile trip out in desert, without another vehicle along, and did not see anything but SxSs out on trail. So could have been worse.
But
Unfortunately had low fuel pressure problem on way home yesterday. Died at stoplight. Luckily I had recently labeled all the fuses and relays and had a jumper in the box. Jumped the pump but wouldn't get more than 20 psi, would fire but not run.
Grabbed a strap and got a tow out of intersection to nearest parking lot. Was fairly hot 110, so went to work diagnosing. Was happy to have an old towel to lay on and decent tools. Could hear and feel pump run. Nothing out of return line. Pinched off return hose, but wouldn't build pressure. Hmm. Cracked supply post filter and had some pressure, enough for a hot fuel shower. So regulator is doing what it should, but not enough pump pressure/flow to regulate above 20. Also won't hold prime. Thinking either leak in fuel line between pump and fuel hat/sender unit or faulty pump. Next step is to drop tank, so hopeless and called for tow truck.
So that is 0 tows in first 30 years of driving and 3 so far this year.
Last time I drove it was 100+ mile trip out in desert, without another vehicle along, and did not see anything but SxSs out on trail. So could have been worse.
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OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
That's no fun!
You've got your 3 out of the way hopefully.
What brand of pump, and how many GPH? What's the pressure needed for the system?
You've got your 3 out of the way hopefully.
What brand of pump, and how many GPH? What's the pressure needed for the system?
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Holley 340 lph, running at 58 psi. Got this size to support nitrous. If pump is bad and given the difficulty I have finding a refill, I could step back to a 255 for N/A only. Less heat, extra flow, current in wiring.
The Ultra flow welded or the Ultra flow SS polished?
Back in the 90s we put the shorter SS version on the 1969 Mustang mach 1. I do really like the sound. Not sure how different 30 years later.
The 20s are not cheap. 2x the 14 case. almost 3x the Jones Max flow.
I'm blaming you if I choose the financially irresponsible route.
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
Welded is my preferred model.
17513 is the 2.5" I/O model I have on the Tundra. 17233 is the 3" I/O that I use in most places.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
I pulled the trigger on a pair of 17513s. Since I was already splurging on the more expensive muffs I went ahead and got SS v-bands, pipe and bends to fab tail pipes. Only $30 more for SS.
So thanks for helping me not be such a cheap ***.
There is a 24" case length version (17236). I went for the 20s as I think a pair should provide enough volume. The Jones max flows are available 14/18/22".
Why now?
Well to offset sadness of fuel issue, I figured spending money on exhaust would be a good idea
Made decision to pull bed instead of tank easier, might as well do exhaust 'while I'm there'. Much easier from the top.
So thanks for helping me not be such a cheap ***.
There is a 24" case length version (17236). I went for the 20s as I think a pair should provide enough volume. The Jones max flows are available 14/18/22".
Why now?
Well to offset sadness of fuel issue, I figured spending money on exhaust would be a good idea
Made decision to pull bed instead of tank easier, might as well do exhaust 'while I'm there'. Much easier from the top.
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
I pulled the trigger on a pair of 17513s. Since I was already splurging on the more expensive muffs I went ahead and got SS v-bands, pipe and bends to fab tail pipes. Only $30 more for SS.
So thanks for helping me not be such a cheap ***.
There is a 24" case length version (17236). I went for the 20s as I think a pair should provide enough volume. The Jones max flows are available 14/18/22".
Why now?
Well to offset sadness of fuel issue, I figured spending money on exhaust would be a good idea
Made decision to pull bed instead of tank easier, might as well do exhaust 'while I'm there'. Much easier from the top.
Glad I could give you the push needed!
The 22" (5x11x22) case Jones/Magnaflow/ETC is the LARGEST straight through case I've found, that is what I had on the K2500 Suburban before the cats took a dump. The 24" Dynomax is just a tad smaller in the width and height dims (I had one of these on the red 2011 Suburban)
I had an 18" (5x8x18) Jones Maxflow on my '17 F150...that muffler was previously on the Red/Buckskin K5 and was too loud, but sounded great at part throttle. Sounded good the whole way through on the Ford.
Exhaust brings me great joy as well, looking forward to the sounds your BBF makes! The stainless pipe will change the tone also, probably for the better.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
Molecules and stuff, but I don't want to get too technical 
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Took the family camping up in the 'forest' last weekend (as my desert kids call it), Mogollon rim, 6500 ft or so. Had a good time, rained a bit but was prepared so was actually nice as it cooled off the heat. 5 families, so lots of kids, dogs and happy faces around the camp fire. (a real fire at that).
Brought the quads and dirt bike, all the kids really enjoyed riding them.
Spent some time playing with R/C trucks, a few others brought crawler so we had a group to challenge each other.
Also did some archery with kids and sighed in my pellet gun.
So lots of redneck actives including fire, chainsaws, BBQ, whiskey and whatnot.
Was 115 on Friday, so really hot packing up to leave. Life can be a ***** at times, so I remind myself how lucky I am to have a family, friends and toys to go play with. I did some PM on all the bikes beforehand so no fixing or farting around with them during the trip.
![1-FaFWxiUwhVgrczn_M=w1292-h970-no?authuser=0[\img].jpg](https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/data/attachments/1547/1547829-3aabaf5972c9743ce32b4595caa8420e.jpg "1-FaFWxiUwhVgrczn_M=w1292-h970-no?authuser=0[\img].jpg")
We had one extra kid and both 80 lb dogs in the cab so packed full!
Brought the quads and dirt bike, all the kids really enjoyed riding them.
Spent some time playing with R/C trucks, a few others brought crawler so we had a group to challenge each other.
Also did some archery with kids and sighed in my pellet gun.
So lots of redneck actives including fire, chainsaws, BBQ, whiskey and whatnot.
Was 115 on Friday, so really hot packing up to leave. Life can be a ***** at times, so I remind myself how lucky I am to have a family, friends and toys to go play with. I did some PM on all the bikes beforehand so no fixing or farting around with them during the trip.
We had one extra kid and both 80 lb dogs in the cab so packed full!
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
On to fixing the 72 Ford. Popped the bed off to access fuel tank pickup. I think it was faster and easier than dropping the tank. 6 nuts, one plug and filler. Oh, and a shop with a lift and A/C
Pulled pickup and found split hose. Trying to fully understand what happened. I used hose and clamps that came with the pump. I get that worm clamps can cut the hose and help cause a tear. It appears that the pressure pushed on the pump and made it sit crooked in the pickup, making the otherwise straight hose a zig-zag and hence the failure at bend. So need to figure out how to make sure this doesn't happen again. Maybe secure pump body to return line or a metal tube to keep hose straight. different hose, smooth clamps.
Pulled pickup and found split hose. Trying to fully understand what happened. I used hose and clamps that came with the pump. I get that worm clamps can cut the hose and help cause a tear. It appears that the pressure pushed on the pump and made it sit crooked in the pickup, making the otherwise straight hose a zig-zag and hence the failure at bend. So need to figure out how to make sure this doesn't happen again. Maybe secure pump body to return line or a metal tube to keep hose straight. different hose, smooth clamps.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Yes, thanks. I think.
SS parts showed up.
Will need to rework the hangers for tail pipes so a fair job to get it all swapped in.
ntsqd
Well-known member
Kind of looks like the FP assembly is just a tad longer than the depth of the tank. Maybe shorten the outlet tube a little bit to allow using a longer piece of hose to gain more depth tolerance?
There's an SAE spec specifically for submersible fuel hose. Looked at my Refs folder and I don't have it, but a quick search says that it is spec 30R10.
I prefer ABA type hose clamps when I have to actually use them (prefer to use Push-Lok hose ends & AN/JIC fittings instead). They look like these: https://www.westmarine.com/pyi-9.5-12mm-316l-sae-3-hose-clamps-10-pack-20455218.html Rounded-back edges and no perforations to cut or extrude the hose's jacket.
Given the location an Oetiker type clamp might be the best option: https://www.westmarine.com/sierra-oetiker-crimp-on-stepless-ear-type-clamps-P010501658.html To properly attach them you'll need the special tool if you don't already have one. https://www.westmarine.com/sierra-18-9141-oetiker-jaw-pincers-for-crimp-style-clamps-10520054.html Then it isn't possible for the hose clamp to loosen in use.
FWTW.......
Oooh-ooh, V-band clamps. I like them for their sealing and ease of R&R, but I don't like their price and their lack of rotational keying.
There's an SAE spec specifically for submersible fuel hose. Looked at my Refs folder and I don't have it, but a quick search says that it is spec 30R10.
I prefer ABA type hose clamps when I have to actually use them (prefer to use Push-Lok hose ends & AN/JIC fittings instead). They look like these: https://www.westmarine.com/pyi-9.5-12mm-316l-sae-3-hose-clamps-10-pack-20455218.html Rounded-back edges and no perforations to cut or extrude the hose's jacket.
Given the location an Oetiker type clamp might be the best option: https://www.westmarine.com/sierra-oetiker-crimp-on-stepless-ear-type-clamps-P010501658.html To properly attach them you'll need the special tool if you don't already have one. https://www.westmarine.com/sierra-18-9141-oetiker-jaw-pincers-for-crimp-style-clamps-10520054.html Then it isn't possible for the hose clamp to loosen in use.
FWTW.......
Oooh-ooh, V-band clamps. I like them for their sealing and ease of R&R, but I don't like their price and their lack of rotational keying.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Hmm I had not though of a depth issue but that may explain. Thanks for sharing.
I don't remember having to shove the unit in to get lock ring on, but will test and make sure on next attempt.
The pump and supply line pretty much touch. Perhaps that is the problem, taller aftermarket pump.
I think the supplied hose and clamps are cheap ****. Given access issues, I need to find root cause and improve solution.
Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
It looks like the hose is cheap **** and it split due to either being bent over on the bottom of tank or from it flexing with the sloshing of the fuel. If the two hard lines are close together, it might be beneficial to "connect" them for extra rigidity.
ntsqd
Well-known member
I debated suggesting flaring the tube and using an AN tube nut & sleeve with the appropriate fitting on the FP, but the advantage of the rubber coupler is that the NVH from the pump is better isolated. There are good noises and there are bad noises, and FP's are to be not seen and not heard AFAIC.
From experience fuel hose not rated for submersion will split like that just from the submersion. I suspect that what ever caused the buckling is the root cause.
From experience fuel hose not rated for submersion will split like that just from the submersion. I suspect that what ever caused the buckling is the root cause.
I use rated lines on my system along with Oetiker clamps. Back when I was building systems for the jeep crowd I had the same issue you experienced and upped my game.
Please excuse my first feeble attempt at home anodizing
Please excuse my first feeble attempt at home anodizing