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rattle_snake's welding table build

rattle_snake

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Jun 25, 2015
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Chandler, AZ
A decent welding table has been on my todo list for some time now. I looked for a hunk of plate for a top and used tables for some time, but didn't find anything worth pursuing. After settling on a design, I got hung up on material prices... so I waited another month and they went up another 20%. Dooh! I wanted a 1/2 or 3/8 plate top but couldn't justify the significant extra cost given MY use and needs for the surface.

I looked though many table builds for ideas and how they would work with my limited space and usage. I wanted to fully utilize the space underneath, so I decided to fully enclose for clean storage. This allows me to get rid of an existing cabinet to make room for the table. I also wanted to keep my welding machines portable and mounting a tank presented some problems. So the design is a boring, simple cubic rectangle. I chose to use casters for portability. We'll see how that works out, I can always replace with fixed feet if desired in the future. I settled on a height of 32.5" and can add spacer/lift blocks above casters if needed. So far it seems too low...

First step was to build the frame. Material is 2" rectangular 0.120 wall. I built the short ends first and got them as square and flat as possible, then squared up the rest of the frame. I've learned a few things over the years on weld cool/contraction and it effects, and each project comes out a little better than the last. I went slow and re-measured things 5 times before committing to the next step. Cut a lot of tack welds to adjust until perfect. I decided not to use 2" on the lower front to allow the doors and shelf to extend to the bottom. 1" tube frame supports the shelf and gives a place to attach the skin. The resulting errors are very minimal and I am happy with the results.
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Cut some plate for caster mounts with the plasma and tapped to 3/8
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Test fit of the 1/4 top, whole thing was cupped
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rattle_snake

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Next step was to cut and install the skins. I used 18ga sheetmetal and calculated a method to get everything out of one sheet with almost no waste. I used the plasma and tried a new method to space the tip off the surface (with 1/2 angle) instead of dragging.
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The door frames are made of 1x2 16ga tube. The miters came out very nice so I used the tig to reduce the grinding. Going to paint so didn't have to get them as nice as all the bare metal finish cabinet doors I made.
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Crude construction but robust. tried drilling some pilot holes for spot welds but didn't penetrate into the ticker 0.120 wall tube well so just took lazy route and edge welded
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rattle_snake

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I anticipated getting the top on flat would be a challenge. It was. I tacked in a head torque pattern but made a few too many and caused some bowls to form between supports. Max error is 0.020" which is plenty good for my use. As I welded I went over the surface with a strait edge and a feeler gauge so it would take forever.

For this project I used a common woodworking trick to make the top appear thicker. I added 1/4 x 3 flat on the bottom around the edge. After struggling to get the top as flat as possible this seemed like a poor idea that could really f' up the top. Although outside my comfort zone, I decided to go for it and build some skills.
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I ground a bevel on the edge to fill with weld and slowly placed boogers in an even fashion. Most of the inner side welds are welded to the welds on the top (as opposed to the frame), as to not torque the edge down further. After several hours of grinding it came out nice. Only one corner was affected buy the process but not enough to worry about.
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So why exactly did I do this? Because it looks beefier and provides marginal, if any structural rigidity.
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rattle_snake

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Thanks!

Instead of rushing to finish and paint, I'm adding some storage items.
Added a C clamp rack on the right side.
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Also want to store a few of the main welding items in the cabinet like helmet & gloves so they don't get covered in grinder grit when not in use. Added a hook to the door and have some more plans for it and the other side.
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rattle_snake

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rattle_snake

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Built a glove pouch out of a chunk of sheet. Started with cardboard until I found a decent shape then cut n' bent it up. Works well.
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Added a shallow shelf out of steel that clears the helmet on the door.
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Space underneath is enough for my largest jack stands, mechanic seat and other items.
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rattle_snake

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On past projects with metal panels I had to run an edge bead of silicone to stop buzzes and rattles from audio system. On this project I used a tube of autobody seam sealer under the paint instead. It worked out nice and dampens all the panels resulting in a more solid feel without having to add welds that distort the sheets.

I waffled on colors for awhile and decided to match workbench with black frame and red doors. I used my HVLP gun to apply satin black inside and out. Did the paint job outside while a decent storm was approaching, got lucky and it flashed before a haboob or rain.
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After using helmet hook for a day I realized it wasn't quite right. Some times I take the helmet off when up, other times down. The hook was too short for the down case, so I build a longer one at a steeper angle. Now it's right.
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Didn't need to add a grinder rack, torch tube or other accessories as I already built them into my welding machines
 

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FallibleFlyer

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Nov 18, 2011
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Arizona
That's a slick table! I mulled over how to make doors and eventually gave up, you made it look simple. Well done

Looks like from the photos there is a slight bow to the table. Just the photos? or how bad is it actually.
 
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rattle_snake

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Hot damn that's nice.
I like the innovative glove holder too.


That's a slick table! I mulled over how to make doors and eventually gave up, you made it look simple. Well done

Looks like from the photos there is a slight bow to the table. Just the photos? or how bad is it actually.

Thanks guys.
For the doors, just cut and weld :)
After making 10 large doors these little ones were a breeze. I went to great effort to make the table as flat as possible, so just the pics.
 

LSVLance

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Jul 17, 2010
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Peoria, AZ
Look great!! Thanks for the inspiration...I am now rethinking a few design elements on my project.

How far does your top overhang the frame on all 4 sides and would you do that differently next time or like it as is? I really like the doubled up edge...
 
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rattle_snake

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Look great!! Thanks for the inspiration...I am now rethinking a few design elements on my project.

How far does your top overhang the frame on all 4 sides and would you do that differently next time or like it as is? I really like the doubled up edge...

Thanks, but to be honest I stole most of the design and ideas from other members here.

Overhang is 3". Seems like a good distance so far. Double edge was a lot of extra work, I suggest just getting a thicker top (haha with your money of course. What's another $300-500?)
 
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bad_idea

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Jun 11, 2011
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Pasquotank, NC
I like the table. The closed in lower section is really nice. Mine just has a cross bar. I think I will steal that idea and close mine in later when I get a couple more projects sorted. I had a couple chunks of 2x12 across the lower section as a shelf in the last shop. Moving into/building the new shop so please forgive the mess. The table is so rusty because it spent the last year in my driveway while I moved into the new house and built the shop.

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Posting a picture of mine to show how I addressed the thicker edge for the top. Rather than using square tube for the bottom of the top and then adding angle around that, I used angle between the legs then stitched the top to that. My top is 5/8" and the angle is 4x4x1/2" angle. Your method allows you to clamp things at the corner of the table. I've used my table for several years now and built many projects on it, haven't ran into a time when clamping something on the edge of the table was critical. I like how you welded the entire perimeter and ground it smooth, looks very finished.
 

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tarmy

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Here is my 1/2” top layout table I recently built...and the real welding table working...all stolen ideas!

That 1/2 is dead flat and tacked...not welded too much as that would warp it.

OP...very nice build. I like your build...doors look sweet.

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rattle_snake

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....Posting a picture of mine to show how I addressed the thicker edge for the top. Rather than using square tube for the bottom of the top and then adding angle around that, I used angle between the legs then stitched the top to that. My top is 5/8" and the angle is 4x4x1/2" angle. Your method allows you to clamp things at the corner of the table. I've used my table for several years now and built many projects on it, haven't ran into a time when clamping something on the edge of the table was critical. I like how you welded the entire perimeter and ground it smooth, looks very finished.

That's a slick idea, thanks for sharing.

Excellent job on the table.
Thanks Cam

Here is my 1/2’ top layout table I recently built...and the real welding table working...all stolen ideas!
That 1/2 is dead flat and tacked...not welded too much as that would warp it.
OP...very nice build. I like your build...doors look sweet.
Thanks doors came out nice and allow some additional convenient storage. Added a die grinder rack. Still have to make a shelf below.
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rixtrix1

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Table turned out very nice, Justin, as expected. Mine has a 1/4" top, too, and I turned the 2"x1/4" angle supporting the top flange out to achieve much the same effect as yours, but didn't weld it. Secured the tip with countersunk machine screws as it was already warped from being over-welded by the PO. Like your doors and helmet/glove holders!
 
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rattle_snake

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Thanks Ric,
Sounds similar to what bad_idea did above. Would have stolen that idea too!

Now that I have been using the table for a little while now I like not having to GND each piece of materail. Just clamp to table surface. Using a magnetic GND at this time.

I did find the need to level the table and it has stayed put even on the casters.
 
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rattle_snake

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Table turned out awesome Justin. Great job.:thumbup:

Great work on the table. It came out beautiful.

Thanks guys, appreciate the complements.

Whipped up another sheet metal tray for the door. Found a scrap of 24ga and cut out the shape. Used tighter edge radius of welding table to bend long sides but resulting radius was not so good.
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Should have done seams with fold over overlap and spot welds instead of just welding. No way to keep inside of seam looking clean so I goop'd some auto seam sealer over the boogers. :)
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Little paint makes any hack at sheet metal work look great!
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StormcrowAz

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Little paint makes any hack at sheet metal work look great!

That reminds me of what the guys over on the Welding Web forum often say: "A grinder and paint makes you the welder you ain't". Pretty much how I feel about a lot of what I do. We're all our own worst critics.

At the end of the day it's functional and looks good. Nice Work!
 

Monza Harry

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Justin can I suggest that you add a cover over your up facing air inlet ports on your door mounted air tools. All of the dust that can settle in them doesn't make them last longer. I use the covers from the tubes small cutters used to come in [may still I just haven't seen them at my work in quite some time, they can be bought though, I have seen them in the shelving section for the cut to length wire shelves, mine are 5/16" Dia.]. Looks pretty nice! Harry
 
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rattle_snake

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Justin can I suggest that you add a cover over your up facing air inlet ports on your door mounted air tools. All of the dust that can settle in them doesn't make them last longer. I use the covers from the tubes small cutters used to come in [may still I just haven't seen them at my work in quite some time, they can be bought though, I have seen them in the shelving section for the cut to length wire shelves, mine are 5/16" Dia.]. Looks pretty nice! Harry
Sure, thanks for the tip

Awesome build :thumbup:
Thanks, it is working well for how I use it. Was able to level it with shims under wheels and it stay put well enough. Glad I did not mount a vice to it now that I have a decent selection of clamps and a 3" edge/overhang.
 

jkherd

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:thumbup: I hope you don't mind if I borrow a few of these ideas for the welding table that I just got off of Craigslist. It was cheaper than building one from scratch. It just needs some modifications.
 

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ThiessenTillage

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Ontario, Canada
Here is my 1/2” top layout table I recently built...and the real welding table working...all stolen ideas!

That 1/2 is dead flat and tacked...not welded too much as that would warp it.

OP...very nice build. I like your build...doors look sweet.

52FBE996-3142-456E-854C-59DD34D073AA.jpg

3BB8629D-9B92-4F1A-914E-4F8A1C5B8167.jpg

Do you have a photo of that "real welding table" without all the clamps on it? I have a beast of welding table, skeleton style, 3ftx5ft, but want to send that one over to be a worktable and build a new welding table and love all the ideas in this thread.
 

Matias

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Finland
Thanks, it is working well for how I use it. Was able to level it with shims under wheels and it stay put well enough. Glad I did not mount a vice to it now that I have a decent selection of clamps and a 3" edge/overhang.

Thread resurrection! :) Great build! Looking into something similar and will probably copy some ideas...

How's it been now with some years use? Any updates/developments?
 
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rattle_snake

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Thread resurrection! :) Great build! Looking into something similar and will probably copy some ideas...

How's it been now with some years use? Any updates/developments?

Yes, thanks. Many great builds here to get ideas from.

Table has worked well. Emptied another C25 tanks an two 10# rolls of wire so it's go some miles on it now. The overall height is a little low, but not enough to put effort into caster spacers. I do a fair amount of grinding and having the interior enclosed is nice to keep contents clean. The door gaps are tight enough. Storage on the doors is slick.
The addition of the belt grinder is a game changer and replaces much of the angle grinder work and clamping to the table surface.

The only drawback of the setup is that the grinder cords can catch on the clamps and knock them off. I leave all my grinders plugged in for convenience.

Another great addition is the welding curtain, so I can hog away and not set my boat on fire.
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