RC car bench top JIG???

[donhd04]

Can anyone give me some ideas on how to make a rc car wheelbase jig? I need it to be able to slide length wise (ie. 12"-14") and slide track width wise as well (ie. wide axle or narrow axle). Kinda like the picture but with adjustability. Any pics or plans would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
Don

This doesn't slide and lock down like i want.

 

[MotoDave]

Change the mounting of the pieces of channel to the base wooden piece by slotting the channel along the length, and the wood qalong the width, using T-nuts (or something simpler) in the slots in the wood base. Now you could loosen the mounting bolts, slide the channel to the track width and wheelbase you want, and lock everything down. Could even get fancy and mark the channel and base if there are consistent dimensions you use frequently.

 

[Heavy Metal Doctor]

So as not to jump to conclusions and make hasty assumptions....why? More info please.

 

[donhd04]

So as not to jump to conclusions and make hasty assumptions....why? More info please.

There are several different measurements that can be used depending on what you are building. Rock crawlers are typically 12-12.5 inches in length and depending on what kit you buy depends on the axle width. Axial wraith and ridgecrest is almost 12" wide while the scx10 is only about 9-10 inches in width. MOA (motor on axle) widths are inbetween. If you build a formula offroad style its all together different measurements. Not sure if your familiar or not with RC cars but they are as complex in building them as it it to build a regular vehicle from scratch.

 

[Heavy Metal Doctor]

Not sure if your familiar or not with RC cars but they are as complex in building them as it it to build a regular vehicle from scratch.

never touched one......

Only been at it since the original Blackfoot was still "new"....

How about you? Newer, or old hand?

I've built a couple each of shafty comp rigs and scalers from scratch - no MOA's as of yet - don't care much for RTR's 'cause the build is part of the fun.....crawlers are just part of it, along with everything else you can name for wheeled RC's (not really into air or water).
My crawler experience has been limited to only one large comp involving people from all over, and friendly local club comps and trail runs...And that is what has me scratching my head about a jig. I've never used one, never felt it was needed, and have never seen any of my other RC buddies use one (not even the hard-core "crawling is my life" types).
That's why I asked for more info, but I guess I should have been more specific as to what issues your trying to solve.
If it's trying to hold it still for building, then I get that, but I've always found your constantly flipping it around / over to where being mounted to jig would just be cumbersome....just rest the chassis hard on something when you don't want the suspension to squash and move all over while you work on part of it.
If it is about measuring / adjusting links / suspension, then that make some sense, as well, but I just go for dial calipers on links / shocks ans such and then a good flat surface and measuring tape for the rest of final tweaking.

 

[donhd04]

I'm really new at it. Got my first one last November. I've since sold it and moved on to a ridgecrest that I'm building a rock bouncer out of. Measuring links that I'm making is really the whole purpose for the jig. I tried it with out and keep getting the links slightly off so I was looking for a more solid way of doing it. The frame and chassis that I'm using is a 60/40 frame foward design so I'm having issues getting it right. But yeah measuring links and adjusting is the main point. I have several friends that have different ones is the reasoning behind the adjustability.

 

[Heavy Metal Doctor]

Then I'd definitely advise just to get the calipers and measure / cut as needed.
For custom links, I use 6-32 or 8-32 all-thread from the hardware store to mock them up with Traxxas ball ends which are plenty tough enough. If perfect finish (like links made for a kit) is not needed, then I just put heat shrink over the threads so it's not obvious what the material is. If you want perfect links, you can measure out what they are when your done and order from one of crawler oriented hobby sites on-line (CKRC, RRP or such).
If you haven't already discovered it, RCCrawler.com has a metric-****-ton of info, but beware of the many web-experts there - take any advice you get there with a grain of salt (most of the group I RC with won't even go there anymore).

edit: there is usually a good set of set up sizes / link mounting points for any given chassis for whatever style of rig on the mfr's website, if not listed in the paperwork that come with the parts, or else on one of the forums like RCCrawler.

 

[donhd04]

Yeah been on there a while now. A lot good info though on there.

 

[fergus]

What about some 80/20?

http://www.8020.net/Default.asp

I hear they have an eBay store where you can buy drops and off cuts cheap.

Kris from 44 Bikes thread. He uses it for frame building jigs:

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1670905&postcount=12

You could also go with some t-slot like woodworkers use:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21276&site=ROCKLER

Alternatively, if you had a router, you could use a t-slot bit and cut the grooves in a piece of melamine yourself....