Re-do/Paint epoxy over

[RedBeard109]

What's up guys. Got a quick question and looking for some advice.
I recently about year or so ago laid down so garage epoxy I think the brand was creteseal or something like that anyways. My shop gets used as a shop but also is my man cave. After a year or so of projects and hot tires some of the floor has peeled in small patches or is just dirty looking.

My question is I want to lay down some more paint like re pint/epoxy the floor make it look new again. What do I need to do to prep so I don't get peel up again

Thanks

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Red:
Grind it all back to concrete and start over.

 

[Garage Flooring]

What's up guys. Got a quick question and looking for some advice.
I recently about year or so ago laid down so garage epoxy I think the brand was creteseal or something like that anyways. My shop gets used as a shop but also is my man cave. After a year or so of projects and hot tires some of the floor has peeled in small patches or is just dirty looking.

My question is I want to lay down some more paint like re pint/epoxy the floor make it look new again. What do I need to do to prep so I don't get peel up again

Thanks

Rent a Diamabrush coatings removal tool / grinder from Home Depot. Start fresh. Lots of good folks here and we can help you get the right product for the job.

 

[Shea]

RedBeard, I believe Crete-seal is an acrylic sealer and not epoxy. Are you looking to put down the same or an actual epoxy product?

 

[RedBeard109]

I was looking for any insight or direction I was hoping for an easier way to go bout than stripping it down bare, I have way to much in my shop right now to empty out and redo the floor.

I guess I'm asking could I just buy another gallon or two and lay it over the existing floor? Obviously I'll clean and scrub but stripping it is a little over kill.

 

[Cave Creek Ray]

I had the same experience with my first epoxy product.

The problem with areas of poor adhesion indicate there may be areas of concrete creme that were not removed prior to the first application. Creme is the "creamy" mix that concrete workers work to the surface to give the concrete a smooth textured surface. Problem is, if the concrete starts to set up before they get it fully worked, they will add water to the surface. This so emulsifies the concrete that the creme has no structural integrity. It's like hard mud and will turn to dust if you scratch it.

WARNING: TO ANYONE CONSIDERING APPLICATION OF ANY PRODUCT TO BARE CONCRETE, ESPECIALLY NEW CONCRETE, CHECK FOR LOOSE CREME. USE A HEAVY WIRE BRUSH ON YOUR SURFACE IN SEVERAL SPOTS. IF YOU BREAK ANY POWDER-LIKE MATERIAL AWAY FROM THE SURFACE, THIS CREME WILL PREVENT ADHESION OF EVEN THE VERY BEST PRODUCTS.

This concrete creme is what produces concrete "dust" as it breaks loose under initial use.


My garage slab was poured on the 1st of July when it was 119F with a ten mile an hour wind -absolutely the very worst conditions possible. They had to wet the material down as they worked it.

My first application of another brand of epoxy simply covered up the creme. I pressure washed off the paint, and acid washed the remainder. Then, I carefully neutralized the surface with baking soda afterwards. The creme released and my second coat of Rustoleum bonded very well. The small patches of paint that held on stayed on after the re-coat.

Another caution. Acid washing of your floor may put tools at risk of rusting under acid fumes. Don't ask me how I know!

For folks trying to go cheap and easy putting down the Rustoleum or similar products: PREPARATION IS EVERYTHING! If you screw that up your life will be made immeasurably harder as I and many who post here about their experiences will attest.

Lots of guys get off to a start with only part of the picture. Like those in the old days who acid washed but never neutralized. Their paint started "bubbling" off in a week or so. There is a wealth of knowledge on this forum. Once you figure out WHAT you want to put down, make sure you figure out exactly HOW the process unfolds and follow those steps to the letter. Err on the side of caution. Cutting corners puts the whole job at risk.

Sorry for the "rant" but people contemplating do-it-yourself projects need to understand you can create a whole bunch of problems in a hurry that may take months to resolve.

 

[bdamico]

I was looking for any insight or direction I was hoping for an easier way to go bout than stripping it down bare, I have way to much in my shop right now to empty out and redo the floor.

I guess I'm asking could I just buy another gallon or two and lay it over the existing floor? Obviously I'll clean and scrub but stripping it is a little over kill.

That's actually not overkill. I know you don't want to hear it, but if you floor is coming up, then putting new epoxy down to bond to the epoxy that is coming up -- will just come up.

If the majority of your floor is well adhered -- which i bet it is not -- then you could (1) sand up all the poorly adhered epoxy to concrete and (2) sand the well adhered epoxy to roughen it up and (3) recoat. Sounds like that's what you want to hear.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

I had the same experience with my first epoxy product.

The problem with areas of poor adhesion indicate there may be areas of concrete creme that were not removed prior to the first application. Creme is the "creamy" mix that concrete workers work to the surface to give the concrete a smooth textured surface. Problem is, if the concrete starts to set up before they get it fully worked, they will add water to the surface. This so emulsifies the concrete that the creme has no structural integrity. It's like hard mud and will turn to dust if you scratch it.

WARNING: TO ANYONE CONSIDERING APPLICATION OF ANY PRODUCT TO BARE CONCRETE, ESPECIALLY NEW CONCRETE, CHECK FOR LOOSE CREME. USE A HEAVY WIRE BRUSH ON YOUR SURFACE IN SEVERAL SPOTS. IF YOU BREAK ANY POWDER-LIKE MATERIAL AWAY FROM THE SURFACE, THIS CREME WILL PREVENT ADHESION OF EVEN THE VERY BEST PRODUCTS.

This concrete creme is what produces concrete "dust" as it breaks loose under initial use.


My garage slab was poured on the 1st of July when it was 119F with a ten mile an hour wind -absolutely the very worst conditions possible. They had to wet the material down as they worked it.

My first application of another brand of epoxy simply covered up the creme. I pressure washed off the paint, and acid washed the remainder. Then, I carefully neutralized the surface with baking soda afterwards. The creme released and my second coat of Rustoleum bonded very well. The small patches of paint that held on stayed on after the re-coat.

Another caution. Acid washing of your floor may put tools at risk of rusting under acid fumes. Don't ask me how I know!

For folks trying to go cheap and easy putting down the Rustoleum or similar products: PREPARATION IS EVERYTHING! If you screw that up your life will be made immeasurably harder as I and many who post here about their experiences will attest.

Lots of guys get off to a start with only part of the picture. Like those in the old days who acid washed but never neutralized. Their paint started "bubbling" off in a week or so. There is a wealth of knowledge on this forum. Once you figure out WHAT you want to put down, make sure you figure out exactly HOW the process unfolds and follow those steps to the letter. Err on the side of caution. Cutting corners puts the whole job at risk.

Sorry for the "rant" but people contemplating do-it-yourself projects need to understand you can create a whole bunch of problems in a hurry that may take months to resolve.

All great points. This is why we lean heavily towards grinding vs. the acid etch procedure. Masons love to make that slab smooth and unfortunately they start dipping trowels in water. This is where the trouble starts.

 

[Shea]

I'm still not sure that the OP has epoxy. It sounds like an acrylic based on the brand.

 

[Pig In A Poke]

All great points. This is why we lean heavily towards grinding vs. the acid etch procedure. Masons love to make that slab smooth and unfortunately they start dipping trowels in water. This is where the trouble starts.

I don't know if it's what we love to do, but it is what we are supposed to do I cannot think of a time in 22 years as a mason I have dipped my trowel in water, but I have sprayed water on the surface. An unprotected floor that is not troweled enough will wear and allow penetration. Sorry for getting off topic.

 

[Garage Flooring]

I'm still not sure that the OP has epoxy. It sounds like an acrylic based on the brand.

I believe Shea is correct if the brand name is correct. OP can you post a picture and confirm the brand?

 

[hangfirew8]

Seal-krete Epoxy Seal, sold at Lowe's, is a single part Epoxy.

When I had to remove that useless stuff from my garage floor, I rented a floor buffer with sanding attachment.

-HF

 

[Shea]

Seal-krete Epoxy Seal, sold at Lowe's, is a single part Epoxy.

This is not epoxy either. It's acrylic paint with an epoxy additive. But if the OP got the name backwards then maybe that is what he has. He stated CreteSeal which is an acrylic sealer. It can be easy to get the names confused if you don't do this everyday.

 

[mnavillus]

I was looking for any insight or direction I was hoping for an easier way to go bout than stripping it down bare, I have way to much in my shop right now to empty out and redo the floor.

I guess I'm asking could I just buy another gallon or two and lay it over the existing floor? Obviously I'll clean and scrub but stripping it is a little over kill.

NO! stripping is not overkill!

If you have time constraints,conflicts or simple don't want to deal with prepping the floor....Hire a professional contractor who will perform the task for you.

I think most of the guys on the forum will agree, the number 1 reason for all coating failure is "surface prep"


good luck with the prep work!

 

[CNGsaves]

+1 for surface prep . . surface prep . . . . surface prep !!

Let's SEE what you've got . . post up PIC's.

 

[Garage Flooring]

NO! stripping is not overkill!

If you have time constraints,conflicts or simple don't want to deal with prepping the floor....Hire a professional contractor who will perform the task for you.

I think most of the guys on the forum will agree, the number 1 reason for all coating failure is "surface prep"


good luck with the prep work!

+1 for surface prep . . surface prep . . . . surface prep !!

Let's SEE what you've got . . post up PIC's.

When it comes to the world of coatings there is so much outside our control that can play havoc with a job. The key is to test for as much of that as possible and then do two simple things.

FOLLOW the directions. Read them, watch them and FOLLOW them.

DO THE PREP. In this case removing the old coating.

 

[azula]

I was looking for any insight or direction I was hoping for an easier way to go bout than stripping it down bare, I have way to much in my shop right now to empty out and redo the floor.

I guess I'm asking could I just buy another gallon or two and lay it over the existing floor? Obviously I'll clean and scrub but stripping it is a little over kill.

I tried that. It looked terrible so I went with racedeck...lol. I am not experienced though.

 

[thomasj1]

Just gonna subscribe for later.