Re-finishing wood table

[xcgates]

I was given an old beat-up wood table, which then got beat up even more by hanging out in and out of my garage. I'm looking to make this my kitchen table (currently don't have anything in my kitchen, I eat and do all my work on my computer table, or a folding plastic table.)

However my searching skills aren't very good when trying to find how to sand/finish it, seeing as the depth of my experience is using a circular saw and a drill, and I have no idea what kind of finishes do what, beyond what is on Wikipedia.

I want it to be a durable surface, something that won't immediately give up at the sight of reloading ammo, dismantling a carb, or just eating food. (Cleaned between each use, of course.) Does not need to be pretty, I'm the only one that has to live with it. (Y'all probably had that figured out by now, though. )

I was thinking this is a great excuse to get a hand-held belt sander, then brush on some thing? I've done stains, but I'm thinking something more of a paint, or polyurethane? As far as polyurethane is concerned, there is water-based and petroleum based, what are the advantages/disadvantages?

 

[Call me the Breeze]

Depending on how bad it is marred, and how nice you want it too be. You can take it as it is, and rub it down with old english polish that kinda fills the scratches and cleans it up. Or you could strip the finish with some acetone, sand it down, and refinish it with minwax.

 

[ghnl]

Is there any sort of finish on there now? I have used Formby's restorer to renew old clear wood finishes on items that I don't want to totally strip. Use it in a well ventilated place - it seems to mostly be solvents that soften the old finish then evaporate after you've cleaned it with rags/steel wool/etc.

Once cleaned & allowed to dry I would apply a polyurethane finish - 3-4 coats with fine sanding in between. The water-based types work fine, dry quickly and do not stink. The first coat will raise the grain of the wood noticeably but once that first coat is sanded smooth the next coats will give a nice finish. Water based polys are a milky solution in the can but they dry very clear. I don't know if they will stand up to carburettor cleaner but they are good for a kitchen table...

 

[IndyGarage]

Belt sanders are not for refinishing work. They take off material aggressively.

Get a variable speed random orbit sander or a finishing sander.

For refinishing furniture the following works pretty well for me.

Step 1 - lots of newspapers on garage floor, rubber gloves a scraper, some medium steel wool and a gallon of "aircraft stripper". Depending on how big the table is you might get by with a quart of stripper. And don't buy the "environmentally safe" stripper - that just means it's watered down to the point it doesn't work.

Glob the stripper on, watch the finish peel off, wait 15 minutes or so, and scrape it or steel wool it off. Repeat a few times until the old finish is gone.

Step 2. Use 120 then 220 grit sandpaper and sand the surface of the now clean wood smooth. Get some wood filler - same kind of wood the table is made of. Famowood is a brand I've used. Resand the areas with the fill, so that they don't show.

Step 3. Put on the stain and finish coats. I have pretty good luck with Minwax stuff, but there are all kinds of brands that work. There are all-in-one stains and finish coats, but I have better luck with the separate stain, and then a finish coat. You must get the sanding dust off the piece before finishing. Use a tack rag - which is a sticky cheesecloth that grabs the dust.

To stain, you can either use a gel stain or the liquid from a can. The gels are a little more forgiving, but I like the old stuff in the can. You put the stain on with a rag or foam brush then wipe it off before it dries and you can get a good even finish. (be sure to wear rubber gloves when staining, it doesn't wash off). Some woods may need an additional very light very fine sanding after the stain, because the grain raises up slightly. Ust the tack rag again before topcoat.

Next is the finish coat I like a good brush on polyurethane - it comes in gloss or satin finish - usually I use satin. Use a good wood handled brush, follow the instructions on the can, and put on several thin coats then let each dry, with very light sanding and tack ragging the dust off between them. If you put polyurethane on too thick it will run and dry really slow. 3 coats of poly and you will be good to go, and the surface will be very durable.

 

[ghnl]

And inspect the top closely. Some tables are made with a veneer top. The veneer is relatively thin (~1/32") and could easily be sanded through. If it is solid wood then you have the possibility to sand it down. But you need to sand it all over - don't just gouge out the dents or you'll have a wavy top (could make your beer tip over...).

 

[dittle fart around]

People go out of their way to create an antique look by beating their furniture with chains and hammers. Sounds like you've got that accomplished already. Use acetone and steel wool to remove the finish, then cover with 2 or 3 coats of polyurethane.
By the way Formby's is acetone and paint thinner, make your own don't buy it.

 

[xcgates]

... (could make your beer tip over...).

Now THAT would be a tragedy, however I've got a small square of thick steel I use as a stabilizer for any drinks.

 

[xcgates]

People go out of their way to create an antique look by beating their furniture with chains and hammers. Sounds like you've got that accomplished already. Use acetone and steel wool to remove the finish, then cover with 2 or 3 coats of polyurethane.
By the way Formby's is acetone and paint thinner, make your own don't buy it.

Thanks for all the info folks, I'll grab some photos in a couple minutes when I head out to the garage to work on one of my project bikes.

As for the "antique" look, sounds like people buying pre-torn jeans, I get my pants worn out quite well all by myself, thank you very much. No need to get there artificially!