Re-grouting tile

[Quickstep192]

It looks like I’m going to need to re-grout my shower floor. There are some black spots that just aren’t coming out.

I’ll need to grind out 144 lf of grout and re-grout. I’m not looking forward to it.

How deep do I need to go? I want to make sure the new grout gets good purchase, but I don’t want to dislodge any tiles. The grout lines are about 1/8” and the 2” x 2” tiles are about 5/16” thick.

Next question: what to use to re-grout?

Last question: Is there a way to get the grout clean that’s not corrosive to the grout?

OK, that wasn’t the last question - Is a MultiMaster still the best tool for this?

 

[Skyman]

That's gonna be a miserable task. Are you sure you don't want to tear it all out and start fresh?

 

[Quickstep192]

Since the shower floor is under the walls, I’d need to re-tile the walls too.

So, no…

 

[rlitman]

I'd recommend TEC Power Grout. I'm not aware of a better tool than the MultiMaster for this job.

 

[Quickstep192]

How deep to I need to grind out the grout?

 

[jkuro]

Something like this may work for you.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/MAPEI-1-Quart-Heavy-duty-Acidic-Cleaner/5014377805?user=shopping&feed=yes-_-0?store=2878&cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-flr-_-ggl-_-PMAX_FLR_000_Priority_Item_Omni-_-5014377805-_-local-_-22872915043-_-&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23526945078&gclid=Cj0KCQjw94bTBhDQARIsAN3vv0wUHwPFplC52te1j0Bqh4ShBiaaRQHSgsFOvvyLVaLQ8ovFlVKuuHEaArT2EALw_wcB#no_universal_links

 

[gahrajmahal]

It’s a lousy job. I have done two kitchens, my sons and ours. Here is my dust mitigation system and the thread that shows how I made it.

Cyclone Separator for Shop Vac, Compact Setup

This thread has been edited due to all of the original photos being lost from Photo Bucket. Some of the comments are out of sequence, but the photos are now on the GJ server. Hey all, I never was a fan of the typical round shop vac due to the unwieldy hose and wand that comes crashing down any...

www.garagejournal.com

 

[egdede]

I thought I was having a mold problem with grout that wouldn't respond to bleach or mold chemicals. Closer inspection suggested that pan mud had seeped up through the tile gaps when they set the floor tile (asphalt and mortar pan, like the old days). The grout was too thin to hide the mortar. I hand scraped the bed mortar out with a grout removing tool and used a p[re-mixed grout. It worked fine (I was told no-way by tile contractors).

 

[allinon72]

Since the shower floor is under the walls, I’d need to re-tile the walls too.

So, no…

I have a similar condition and need to redo my tile floor eventually....my thought is to remove the bottom row of wall tiles only. Anyone with tile experience chime in and tell me if that's a feasible plan?

 

[Quickstep192]

It depends what’s under the tile.

If it’s drywall or green board, you’ll play hell getting the tile off without damaging the board under it.

The tile in my shower floor has Schluter Kerdie under it and that’s one of the reasons I’m keen to avoid replacing it.

If it’s cement board under that won’t damage as easily.

Either way, you’ll need to grind the adhesive down to get the tile to sit flush when you put it back. And of course, make sure you have spare tile.

Also, depends on the adhesive there’s used and how well the job was done.

I made a tile countertop in my house assuming it would be forever. The tile was set in full coverage thinset over cement board over plywood. When we got tired of the tile countertop, the guys who came to install the granite worked their butts off removing the tile.