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Re-mudding Drywall Tape

dallusglockin

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Joined
Aug 19, 2015
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13
Location
Carrollton, TX
So my PE test is this Friday and I've been studying a lot for it lately. Tonight I took a night off and looked around the garage. I knew the walls needed a lot of work in order to get it smooth and ready to finish. I tried to do a little work to see how involved it is.

I spread a layer of joint compound over the tape and used a knife to smooth out the best I could. After it dried I sanded it smooth and it looks like I sanded thru some of the joint compound and got into the ridge of the tape. Is this the right way to do it? Then I assume I do a second layer over it and cover up the tape? Or is there a better way to do it??

Does anyone have an idea about how much a contractor in DFW would charge to (re)finish the walls? It's a 17x18x9 garage. Or should I grab and mask and sander and go to town?

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After my first round...

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A representative shot of what is in there

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Shot of the ceiling...

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Here's a VERY early rendering of what I'm looking to do! It's basically an excuse to use SketchUp.
 
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four.cycle

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Oct 19, 2015
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29,170
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Tacoma, Washington
looks like you need a broader knife.
start with the small knife, finish with the broad knife.
work it up in the middle. feather your edge way out. sand.
remember you're doing a garage, not the Sistine Chapel.

mud_knives by four.cycle, on Flickr
 

mg283680

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Jul 23, 2015
Messages
103
I'd start pushing on the walls and ceiling to make sure the nails/screws are secure and the board can't move. also make sure any areas with tape have no air bubbles (looks like one in the pic with the cable), and there are no areas with cracks and no tape. Any bubbles need to be cut out and retaped. Also take that wide blade and lightly scrape everywhere there's mud.

Put some mud in your tray and thin it with water til its a bit thicker than a good milkshake. Then take the wide blade shown in the pic above and start laying down some mud. Put it on the wall a bit less than the width of the blade for a few feet and then smooth it moving along the seam. After a bit of practice you can lay down more mud. It takes paractice but you shouldn't need but a few swipes with the blade to smooth and remove excess mud. As the mud accumulates on the blade lay it down ahead and keep going.

You want to put the mud on thin.

If garbage gets in some of the mud, throw it off the trowel into the trash. If any mud gets on the floor scrape it off when its still wet.

I figure about 9/10 youtube vids are totally wrong on any topic, but watch a few vids for tips. https://www.google.com/search?q=youtube+drywall+tape
 
Last edited:

AndyCBR

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Jun 22, 2014
Messages
396
Location
Baton Rouge, LA
Yeah you need to fan it out wider. Make sure there is enough joint compound in the joint before applying the tape so it beds in well. Wetting the tape can help it bed in also.

In my experience the mesh tape is much more friendly to beginners and I especially recommend it for patchwork to prevent air under the tape at **** joints.

I don't know what your time is worth but I would make a few more attempts before I subbed it out. For such a small job it may be difficult to get someone to show up at a reasonable price if at all.
 

Jess

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Oct 22, 2006
Messages
430
Location
Vancouver Island, BC Canada
I would suggest that more coats. less mud in increasingly wider applications will require a lot less sanding and the associated dust. The already suggested drywall knives of different sizes will make it pretty easy. I did over 6000 sq ft of drywall in my project and it turned out very well. Take your time. let it dry between coats and before doing the next coat, knick off the bumps with a pass of a drywall knife. Some garage jobs done to just do the minimum are pretty ugly, but you can fix it to look great with some patience.
 
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CKS1955

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Oct 12, 2014
Messages
489
Location
Michigan
Right knifes as said above. Start with smaller knife and progessively go wider with each additional coat. Less mud in each pass is better than to much. Easier and cleaner to add more, than removing via sanding. Keep a bucket of water around to keep your knifes clean. My final coat for **** ends are probably 28" to 32" wide. After it has dried use drywall knife to scrape off ridges.

Jay
 

Leeboy20

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Sep 18, 2009
Messages
459
Location
Kamloops B.C. canada
You already have the tape coat on, jump to the large knife right away . When your holding the handle , don't hold it with a fist . Use the two fingers you would make a peace sign with and place those two fingers on the back of the blade and use each finger as pressure guides to not get ridges in the mud. Try and stay away from big box store all purpose , and pick up a red box of synco or blue box, sands way easier . If you have to lay some more tape down, grab taping mud since it has glue in it .
 

NUTTSGT

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Sep 14, 2009
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Northern Central Ohio
Have patience when you first start learning, finishing drywall can get aggravating inthe beginning.

Check YouTube and watch some videos and learn the technique the guys are using.
 

tac

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Sep 2, 2015
Messages
69
Location
Colleyville Texas
If you have done bodywork drywall can be frustrating because you try to get it too flat and smooth. With taped joint don't try to sand it flat, just knock off the ridges with a wide knife and a damp sponge before putting on the next coat or texture.
 

workhurts

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Mar 5, 2006
Messages
277
Location
VA
Also make sure you've done all the wiring you need before you paint. Add a couple of circuits. Add some lights. Do all of this first.

Anyway, lots of drywall videos. Also if you see it or feel it after mudding you will see it in the paint as that's usually more reflective. Running your hand over it will tell you if you're done.

I helped a friend do his garage and he has never spackled in his life. Turned out great. Granted, 80% of what he put on probably ended up on the ground but so what :)
 
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