You could put one on a 1/4 ratchet with a particularly small handle.
No pics, but I took a stubby screwdriver handle, drilled it out, and forced a 3" 3/8 extension into it. Works great in tight places.
I have found that Mac, Snap on, Ko-ken and FPC have the 3/8" available for sale.That reminds me, I did the same thing with a 1/4"dr 10" and
3/8" dr 8" extension to use with or without a ratchet
That reminds me, I did the same thing with a 1/4"dr 10" and
3/8" dr 8" extension to use with or without a ratchet
Just gave me the idea, drill out a handle all the way though for the shaft, then counter sink for the drive end and use it on the ratchet. My absolutely favorite non ratchet drive tools are the 1/4 drive handles I can stick a ratchet on the back.
I don't think I've seen a 3/8 one like that. I'm not made of money so no snap on handles, but I think I got a ton of old 100 series Stanley Philips #3 with huge handles.
I used a clear handled Snap on 12V test light that had the cord missing and a Snap on 1/4" extension . Where the cord threads in was the same size as the female drive end of the extension. Just had to drill a hole the correct diameter all the way through. Come to think of it, I have a old red 24V Snap on circuit tester that would look pretty cool on an extension.
I can hook you up with an old black Snap on handle if you want one. Just pay the postage.![]()

Ah, I thought you had the female end of the extension in a blind hole in the handle. My mistake for accidentally describing what you already did by drilling it all the way through.
I just learned a valuable lesson before I tried it out on any nice handles, I found a husky screwdriver made of the same WF butter blades as the Craftsman drivers that was about the right size for the extension and decided to try and do it tonight. Turned out a bit cockeyed![]()
Probably should've replaced that drill press that broke a while back since turns out I'm not so hot free handing it.
I appreciate the offer, I'm going to dig through the junk bin for another sacrificial driver and work up a jig and if it all goes well I'll take you up on it![]()
here's a franken ratchet I made. handle is from a snap-on 1/4" drive handle that was rusty and didn't work (had a square shank so it was pretty old).
the ratchet is a corvette hard top removal tool made by snap-on, replaced the fixed torx bit by driving out the roll pin and exchanging for a regular 1/4" with the ball detent. the ratchet itself is a short smooth rod, not the big handle of a normal 1/4" snap-on ratchet, so it pressed into the handle pretty easily.
only one in the world!
edit: just noticed the pic you can make out the model, it was a GM4a pin lock driver handle...no wonder it never worked.
Manage to botch a few more Wally world Stanley handles trying today. I used a block of wood as a guide, still not much luck. Do you start drilling from the side where the shank was, or do you start at the top of handle? I'm thinking the recesses that the wings that come out of the shank go into are catching on the edge of the bit and driving me a couple degrees off once I get about halfway down.I've had the best luck drilling the hole by skipping a couple drill sizes at a time till I get the hole the right size. Don't try to start with a 1/4" hole and drill a 1/2" hole.The drill bit tends to pull to one side causing a off center hole or worse yet a angled hole. I've destroyed a few nice handles in the process.
Use a piece of tape on the drill bit to mark the depth also so you don't drill to far.
Manage to botch a few more Wally world Stanley handles trying today. I used a block of wood as a guide, still not much luck. Do you start drilling from the side where the shank was, or do you start at the top of handle? I'm thinking the recesses that the wings that come out of the shank go into are catching on the edge of the bit and driving me a couple degrees off once I get about halfway down.
When drilling the holes in the block freehand, they were dead on according to the machinist square, so I'm fairly sure I'm holding it right.