Re-stain concrete patio

[88carrera]

I have a 15-year old concrete patio which was stained and sealed prior to my ownership. The sealer has failed and the stain is gradually wearing off. Power washing accelerates the color loss. The concrete itself is definitely gray, as I can see edges where it was not stained. Can anyone recommend a DIY solution to even up the appearance? Bonus points for extending the life of the concrete. This is southwest facing and gets baked with high-altitude sun year-round.

Here are photos of the surface: https://photos.app.goo.gl/rTKrrFY2ShEtZtk59

My priority is low future maintenance and I'm fine with varied surface color. I'd love a stain I can roll or spray on and would prefer a penetrating sealer that does not leave a glossy or built-up finish. I am sure the best way to do this would be to sand-blast the patio down to fresh concrete and start over, but the quotes for sandblasting alone have been $3/sf and I'd rather put the money into my garage than patio.

Suggestions?

Thank you!

 

[benwah]

Without *completely* removing the old sealer, it will be impossible to properly apply a penetrating sealer.

I deal with this often with exterior patios and this is what I do.

First, I degrease the area using a 300 RPM swing buffer and a nylox wheel using your favorite degreaser. I like Powerhouse Degreaser and Purple Power Degreaser. Dilute to recommended ratios and apply with a pump sprayer. Work in manageable sections not allowing the liquid to dry. Pressure wash area after cleaning it.

Next, using a proper concrete dye/stain, mix it into denatured alcohol or acetone and, using a handheld pump sprayer, lightly mist the dye mixture over the patio until you get the color you desire, or close to.

Many light coats are better than few heavy coats. Feel free to use multiple complimenting colors, or accent colors.

Once you're pretty happy with the color you are ready to apply your sealer. Personally I use Endurable matte Concrete Sealer. It is a waterborne polyurethane. You would mix the product 2 to 1 ratio and then dilute it with clean tap water. You can also add a bit of the stain/dye to this mixture to fix any light areas. I like 3-4 light coats applied with a Graco handheld sprayer. You can use a hand-held pump sprayer, but I find I don't get good enough atomization. Using the airless Graco I get perfect coverage.

Now, this is a topical coating, not penetrating. But I have had great luck with it in the mountains of Colorado where we get 100-200 inches of snow per year and plenty of sunshine the rest if the year. To touch up any areas, simply clean the area with clean water, let it dry, and re-apply.

 

[earl84]

Nothing to add, but I really appreciate benwah’s contributions on the forum.

 

[Shea]

Yes, he makes great contributions

 

[88carrera]

Thank you benwah, this is a great help. Do you find the degreaser and nylox wheel are generally enough to remove failing sealer? Is the wheel you describe a wire brush or plastic? I'm trying to find something I can rent and not getting a good match.

When the sun eventually takes it's toll on your sealer, can you simply recoat the sealer or is a scuff or strip necessary? How long do you get between recoats in the mountains?

Thanks!

 

[Ralf11]

I kind of like the "patina" shown in your photos...

 

[benwah]

Guys, thank you for the kind words! I I'm just trying to spread knowledge and what works for me. I hope it helps somebody out there.

OP, Yes I generally find that Degreaser and nylox brushes remove the failing sealer enough to stain and recoat. Keep in mind not 100% of the sealer has to be removed, just the failing areas. Anything that is adhered well has been okay in my experience.

They are stiff plastic bristles. When the sun eventually takes its toll on the sealer years down the road you can simply clean it and reapply. If areas are failing and peeling off they will need to be scuffed. I usually wait about 45 minutes to one hour between coats, or until the coating is no longer tacky. Shaded areas will take longer to cure than areas in direct sunlight.

This is essentially what I use. Not this exact product, but was the first Google result. https://www.cleanfreak.com/17-inch-...term=4576992031968045&utm_content=Ad group #1

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

If your not up to using Acetone Dye, check out our DeltaDye Concrete Stain. Formidable and long lasting for exteriors as well.

Good luck!

https://www.legacyindustrial.net/products/concrete-stain-and-dye/deltadye-concrete-stain.html


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

 

[benwah]

If your not up to using Acetone Dye, check out our DeltaDye Concrete Stain. Formidable and long lasting for exteriors as well.

Good luck!

https://www.legacyindustrial.net/products/concrete-stain-and-dye/deltadye-concrete-stain.html


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

Agreed!

 

[88carrera]

Thank you both! If we just decide to touch things up and go with the “weathered” look, are there any no-build sealers (like Ghostshield?) that would reduce freeze/thaw damage and prolong the life of the concrete without adding a glossy layer?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Thank you both! If we just decide to touch things up and go with the “weathered” look, are there any no-build sealers (like Ghostshield?) that would reduce freeze/thaw damage and prolong the life of the concrete without adding a glossy layer?

Stains, all types, need a topical sealer to help protect. Our HD6500-EXT is a matte/satin look, protects very well.




Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

 

[88carrera]

Thank you Scotty. What kind of lifetime would you project for an application (two coats?) of HD6500-EXT on a patio with unshaded southwest exposure in Denver? Our sun seems to be a special kind of hell for coatings.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi Ghostshield is a penetrating, not topical sealer and won’t absorb into any areas that still have sealer. It also does not change the appearance in any way unlike a topical sealer. It would though help greatly to halt freeze/thaw damage.

 

[joes169]

Without *completely* removing the old sealer, it will be impossible to properly apply a penetrating sealer.

I deal with this often with exterior patios and this is what I do.

First, I degrease the area using a 300 RPM swing buffer and a nylox wheel using your favorite degreaser. I like Powerhouse Degreaser and Purple Power Degreaser. Dilute to recommended ratios and apply with a pump sprayer. Work in manageable sections not allowing the liquid to dry. Pressure wash area after cleaning it.

Next, using a proper concrete dye/stain, mix it into denatured alcohol or acetone and, using a handheld pump sprayer, lightly mist the dye mixture over the patio until you get the color you desire, or close to.

Many light coats are better than few heavy coats. Feel free to use multiple complimenting colors, or accent colors.

Once you're pretty happy with the color you are ready to apply your sealer. Personally I use Endurable matte Concrete Sealer. It is a waterborne polyurethane. You would mix the product 2 to 1 ratio and then dilute it with clean tap water. You can also add a bit of the stain/dye to this mixture to fix any light areas. I like 3-4 light coats applied with a Graco handheld sprayer. You can use a hand-held pump sprayer, but I find I don't get good enough atomization. Using the airless Graco I get perfect coverage.

Now, this is a topical coating, not penetrating. But I have had great luck with it in the mountains of Colorado where we get 100-200 inches of snow per year and plenty of sunshine the rest if the year. To touch up any areas, simply clean the area with clean water, let it dry, and re-apply.

Excellent post, thank you!

The only thing I will add is a sealer recommendation. Personally, I've been using a solvent-based sealer that has excellent penetration AND color enhancement for about 5-6 years now. I've used all kinds of topical acrylic sealers in the past, but I haven't been really satisfied with any of them like I have with this sealer. The downsides are that it costs a bit more than most decorative sealers and it pretty much has to be sprayed, because it uses acetone acetone as one of the main carriers, which flashes off really quickly. I've yet to have any issues with this stuff, and I'm probably approaching a thousand gallons of material sprayed down...............


https://www.trinic.us/products/product/5d964c4cae4140317c4fd788

 

[88carrera]

Thank you all for the continued input. Joe, I really like that low-build, low gloss look. I'll need to decide between that and something like Ghostshield to simply protect but not change the look. We do not want a high-shine/build look here.

 

[88carrera]

Let me throw out one more question: we have a small area of new concrete that I'd like to try to dye to match the existing. Are there any products I can use for this that are available in small quantities?

 

[joes169]

Thank you all for the continued input. Joe, I really like that low-build, low gloss look. I'll need to decide between that and something like Ghostshield to simply protect but not change the look. We do not want a high-shine/build look here.

I may need to clarify, the sealer I linked to certainly does enhance the color, similar to when the area is wet. It is relatively low gloss though, and you can purchase the matte version of it, which has a flattening paste already in the pail, it just needs agitation.

Unfortunately, I'm not sure you're going to find a sealer that doesn't color enhance, yet locks in surface applied color long term.

 

[jimy]

This is a timely subject for me. We moved into a new (1940's) home a year ago and have a large todo list. The existing patio appears to have never been painted or stained, but is an eyesore. It should be replaced, but we are thinking of staining it now and replace in a few years. The advice here is great!

Any advice dealing with cracks? Several are just 1/8" open, but one has some breakage around the cracks. Some sort of concrete patch with bonding agent? Color matched caulk afterwards? Or just leave it alone and stain. The patio is decades old and probably hasn't moved much in recent years. This will be a budget job for 5 years max and certainly will have a rustic look.

thanks,

Jim

 

[benwah]

Any advice dealing with cracks? Several are just 1/8" open, but one has some breakage around the cracks. Some sort of concrete patch with bonding agent? Color matched caulk afterwards? Or just leave it alone and stain. The patio is decades old and probably hasn't moved much in recent years. This will be a budget job for 5 years max and certainly will have a rustic look.

thanks,

Jim

Personally, I would be inclined to stain/dye, seal, THEN fill cracks with a self-leveling polyurethane sealant/caulk. Using the poly caulking -after- sealing the concrete allows you to easily wipe clean any areas that you overfill. Polyurethane is important for UV stability and flexibility. This will help to keep moisture out of the cracks. Especially important if you live in a cold area where water/rain/snow may penetrate into the cracks, freeze, then crack the concrete even more.

If you do not care about the cracks, you do not have to fill them. It is totally subjective, but I would recommend it. It is not going to add that much more to the bottom line.

 

[jimy]

Thanks for the advice. I will plan to do that.

Jim Youngs