Ready to Prep for Rustoleum Epoxyshield

[Winmon]

Well, I think I have finally made the decision to do an epoxy floor. Think I have decided on going with the industrial Rustoleum Epoxyshield. I read as many posts on here about the Rustoleum as I could find. I have learned that it really requires at least 2 coats to get a real nice finish. I have a few questions.
The first is, I have 1600sqft to cover. Should I split it in half and do 1 side one day and the other the next? I ask because I have read about the "lap marks" (where you overlap coats starting the next section) and am trying to avoid them. Or, will the lap marks disappear with the 2nd coat?

I am also trying to figure out how many kits to buy. Say's it covers 300-500sqft per kit, so I will need something like 4-5. How many more kits will I need for the 2nd coat?

And the last question (for now anyway!) is, what did you guys use for a cleaning solution prior to the etching. TSP ?

I did come across a good tip when using several kits to ensure the color is uniform. Mix all the bases into 1 and then back into the original can prior to adding the activator.

I am going to rent a Edco grinder Friday so it should be a "fun" weekend. Based on the times I have read here, it will be taking me 8-10hrs Trying to figure out how many beers that will be requiring!
Thanks!

 

[bmwpower]

If you have control joints in the floor - sure, split it in 2 sections. 1600sq is a large area to do in one shot. You may find that you will not be able to leave a wet edge as you go since by the time you get to the end of a section, the beginning of that section will start to harden some. Give it a shot and see what works best on the first coat. Use the second coat to cover up any roller marks, etc.

If your floor is older with some stains, etc. some people use the Behr concrete cleaner found at Home Depot. I used it on a couple of spots in my garage before coating, but I didn't need to do the whole floor since it was new concrete.

DO YOURSELF A FAVOR...if you're going to clean the floor, rent a floor buffer with an abrasive pad to clean the floor (using the cleaner of your choice). 1600 sqft is a large area to manually scrub with a broom handled brush. Floor buffers are relatively cheap to rent and it makes things soooo much quicker.

 

[rickas]

I bought 2 of these Rustoleum Professional Kits from Lowes: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=173926-90-224148

They include Anhydrous Citric Etching Crystals. If you go this route, the directions say to wet the floor then sweep off excess water before sprinkling on the solution. I didn't get it dry enough in the first few sections so am doing it again. The floor area needs to be barely damp for the etch to work properly.

To clean the floor, I used the Purple Stuff and Orange cleaners and a 3000PSI power sprayer.

 

[bjo]

buy a little more than you expect. any excess can be used to do multiple applications to areas you think will have more traffic. a friend just had an experience where he wasn't able to fully apply second coats on his floor. it turned out ok, but some spots were lighter than others.

for your 1600 sq ft, i second renting a floor sander.

go ahead and split up the floor. lap marks will go away as you apply a second coat.

you will love the rustoeluem pro floor when it is done. i've been enjoying mine for over a month.

btw, make sure you get a good respirator with a p100 filter. the fumes from the rustoleum are nasty...

 

[Winmon]

Thanks for the advice guys.

DO YOURSELF A FAVOR...if you're going to clean the floor, rent a floor buffer with an abrasive pad to clean the floor (using the cleaner of your choice).

Very good idea! I was not looking forward to scrubbing it by hand.

btw, make sure you get a good respirator with a p100 filter

Good idea. I am also planning on getting a nice big fan.

One other question. After everything is prepped, should I make sure that I keep everyone off the floor until I put down the epoxy?

 

[bmwpower]

Thanks for the advice guys.

Very good idea! I was not looking forward to scrubbing it by hand.

If you're careful, you can even use it to acid etch the floor.

 

[Winmon]

Just got done spending 6 hrs using the Edco surfacer. I only got about 1/3 (about 520 sq ft) of the floor done . Looks like that sealer I made the mistake of putting on right after the pour was a BIG mistake! I had a couple people tell me I had to get it on right after the concrete was poured. And the real bad part is the Edco grinder can not get all the up against the wall. I don't know what I am going to do there. I can not believe how tough that sealer is to break through (Clearseal 300). The first several passes just barely scratch it, and when it does start coming off, it looks like melted pieces of plastic. I am even using the diamond stones and putting additional weight on it. Once I get through it though the grinder works really well.

Does anyone know of a faster way to get through the sealer? I even tried Xylene. All it did was make it sticky. I am thinking of trying a floor sander but I am thinking it will just clog up the sand paper real fast.

 

[bmwpower]

Oh snap - I didn't know you had sealer down. That *****.

Diamond cutters are going to be the easiest option. Keep making passes and see how it works. Check you cutters occasionally for wear. Keep in mind, sealer has the tendency to seep into the pores of the concrete...not good.

There are machines that might be better suited for this tough sealer. First, you can try to use a shotblaster. Basically, you fill the machine with shot, which it subsequently throws at the surface. You might have some luck with this one. Second, you can try to use a scarifier. This is a machine with a cylindrical cutting wheel. It's very abrasive. It's the same type of machine they use to grind off highway lines. If you go this route, you will more than likely need to follow up with the Edco as the remaining surface will be kinda rough.

Yea, my mason told me to put sealer on it, too. Maybe to hide his lousy finish work - I don't know. In any event, I did not put sealer down. Thankfully.

 

[Winmon]

The grinder does seem to be working, it just takes ALOT of work/time. I do have to stop every once in awhile when I start a new section to clean the cutters. They get "glazed" over with the sealer which makes it not cut as well. You can really tell though once you get through the sealer. The machine gets some resistence back, starts sounding different and you start getting dust piles again. I am going to call Rustoleum tomorrow and see what they say about the sealer. The sealer is solvent based so maybe I will get real lucky and it will not pose a problem with the epoxy.
Well, I am back to it again. Only 12 hrs to go at yesterday's rate!

 

[bmwpower]

It took me about 6-8 hours on my 30x30 slab without sealer, just new uneven concrete. About 8 passes.

 

[snorvet]

I agree with Bmw - a shotblaster should take off the sealer. It took me about 4 to 5 hours for 500 sf - but I went over it twice. I couldnt get into corners or edges either. I bought a diamond cutter wheel for my hand grinder and it worked wonders

 

[Winmon]

I bought a diamond cutter wheel for my hand grinder and it worked wonders

Good idea! Thanks

 

[GearHead_1]

I would look at spending a little extra and get their clear top coat to put over the color coat. I didn't use Rustoleum but I know they offer it, though it isn't included in the kit. I put down two coats of clear on mine. It really makes a difference. I used UCoatIt and their clear has some UV inhibitors in it also. It's not supposed to yellow.

 

[Winmon]

Well, just got done grinding my 40'x40' concrete with the Edco grinder. Get this, 23 HOURS it took to get that F'ing sealer off! And I still have to do the edges with the angle grinder. I sure the hell hope after all this that the epoxy does not give me any issues!