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Real Stihl Green vs Yellow Chain Experience

freudianfloyd

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The discussion the other day about the Stihl MS271 got me thinking about my saw. As I said in the previous discussion, I have an MS271 and a Husqvarna 450. I bought the Stihl because I was under the impression it was a better quality, more powerful saw. The one I bought came with a 20" bar, my Husky has an 18". I was expecting to love the Stihl, but I was disappointed.

My Husqvarna will cut rings :)lol_hitti) around the Stihl. I chocked it up to maybe the chain wasn't sharpened correctly from the factory. Well when these saws were brought up the other day, somebody mentioned getting rid of the green anti-kickback chain and replacing it with a yellow RS chain.

Now I am dying to get one and see if there is a difference. My question is, do any of you with real-world experience know if I will see much cutting difference besides when plunging or boring? Most of the time I am felling, or just lopping off branches, and cutting up firewood. I have heard some reviews say the yellow chain makes a huge improvement, and I have heard others say you wont notice a difference, plus I trust the guys on here more. Can anybody say confidently that it is worth it? I am no pro, but I have 31 acres of trees that are constantly needing cut up (a lot of dying ash), and the Stihl just doesn't impress like i'd hoped.

Thanks for any information.

I have been reading a little more, and from the way I understand it, the biggest difference is that the MS271 comes with a semi-chisel chain, and the yellow, full chisel is what makes the difference. Am I correct in that?
 
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dr_clyde

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I somehow got an anti-kickback chain by accident. Hucked that thing in the garbage as fast as I could. Thought my saw had lost half its horsepower.

Both of those are very popular 50cc saws, so they should cut very similar. It all comes down to the chain. If the raker isn't ground correctly, or there isn't very much height difference between the chisel tooth and the raker, it will affect how aggressive the chain cuts. An anti-kickback chain by definition is not as aggressive, and will cut way less quickly than a regular full chisel chain.

I run a full chisel chain (the yellow RS chain) on my old O41 with a 20" bar, and with a sharp chain will practically drop through a log.
 
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freudianfloyd

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I somehow got an anti-kickback chain by accident. Hucked that thing in the garbage as fast as I could. Thought my saw had lost half its horsepower.

Both of those are very popular 50cc saws, so they should cut very similar. It all comes down to the chain. If the raker isn't ground correctly, or there isn't very much height difference between the chisel tooth and the raker, it will affect how aggressive the chain cuts. An anti-kickback chain by definition is not as aggressive, and will cut way less quickly than a regular full chisel chain.

I run a full chisel chain (the yellow RS chain) on my old O41 with a 20" bar, and with a sharp chain will practically drop through a log.

Your description of the anti-kickback chain is exactly how my saw felt. I don't know what chain came on my Husky, but it cuts like butter. The Stihl felt much less powerful, and I had to apply twice as much pressure to the cut.
 

GrantCee

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The models you have are equivalent; whoever told you the MS271 was a "better quality, more powerful saw" should probably be throat-punched. If you want a "better saw" in that displacement range, you'll have to move up to a pro-level model (one with a vertically-split magnesium crankcase.) In the Stihl line, that's a 261. In the Husky line, it's a 550. You'll note they're significantly more expensive than their non-pro counterparts.

Yes, a non-safety chain will, all other things being equal, cut faster than a safety style. They are also more dangerous for a casual or occasional user. If you do a lot of brush cutting, the tradeoff between safety and cutting speed may be acceptable. If you do mostly large wood cutting, a non-safety chain will be faster and the reduction of kickback less important (kickback occurs at the nose).

Once you get out of the safety chain arena, there's a big difference in the shape of the cutters. In general, a full chisel chain will cut faster than a semi-chisel. However, the price to be paid is that the chisel chain dulls more rapidly, particularly if the chain hits even a small amount of dirt. The semi-chisel will last longer in such conditions. I don't know Stihl's chain line, so I can't comment on what they make, but I suspect they'll have a choice between the two.

(Or not. Stihl can be odd sometimes.)
 
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eschoendorff

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I have the Stihl oilomatic Rapid Duro carbide chain on my 271. I don’t remember if it’s an anti kick back chain, but it rips. Never had a problem with cutting ability or power. It’s similar to the rescue chain fire departments use from what I understand. I paid more for it but I understand it’s more durable in semi dirty conditions and the **** I need to cut is rarely nice and clean.

Haven’t been disappointed yet.
 
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freudianfloyd

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The models you have are equivalent; whoever told you the MS271 was a "better, more powerful saw" should probably be throat-punched. If you want a "better saw" in that displacement range, you'll have to move up to a pro-level model (one with a vertically-split magnesium crankcase.) In the Stihl line, that's a 261. In the Husky line, it's a 550. You'll note they're significantly more expensive than their non-pro counterparts.

Yes, a non-safety chain will, all other things being equal, cut faster than a safety style. They are also more dangerous for a casual or occasional user. If you do a lot of brush cutting, the tradeoff between safety and cutting speed may be acceptable. If you do mostly large wood cutting, a non-safety chain will be faster and the reduction of kickback less important (kickback occurs at the nose).

Once you get out of the safety chain arena, there's a big difference in the shape of the cutters. In general, a full chisel chain will cut faster than a semi-chisel. However, the price to be paid is that the chisel chain dulls more rapidly, particularly if the chain hits even a small amount of dirt. The semi-chisel will last longer in such conditions. I don't know Stihl's chain line, so I can't comment on what they make, but I suspect they'll have a choice between the two.

(Or not. Stihl can be odd sometimes.)

Well to be fair, I picked the Stihl on impulse without doing my homework. I was just told that Husqvarna was nowhere near the quality of Stihl these days. Nobody said the 271 was bigger than the 450, to be honest, I messed up. When looking at them at the dealer, the 271 looked massive. Once I got them home I realized the only thing bigger was the bar.

I stopped at a Stihl dealer on the way home and picked up a yellow chain. I will cut a log with each and see how they compare.
 

GrantCee

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I have the Stihl oilomatic Rapid Duro carbide chain on my 271. I don’t remember if it’s an anti kick back chain, but it rips. Never had a problem with cutting ability or power. It’s similar to the rescue chain fire departments use from what I understand. I paid more for it but I understand it’s more durable in semi dirty conditions and the **** I need to cut is rarely nice and clean.

I've used carbide chains side by side with regular chains on the same class of saw. In clean wood they're slow, noticeably slower than either a chisel or semi chisel chain (though I'll admit they may be faster than safety chain!) They're great for cutting stumps and roots, which are the kind of conditions that kill a steel chain.
 

eschoendorff

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I've used carbide chains side by side with regular chains on the same class of saw. In clean wood they're slow, noticeably slower than either a chisel or semi chisel chain (though I'll admit they may be faster than safety chain!) They're great for cutting stumps and roots, which are the kind of conditions that kill a steel chain.

I’m gonna have to defer to you here. The Duro does what I need as quick as I’d ever need it. I don’t use it everyday though. It’s nice because it’s ready when I am.
 

shawhite

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The full chisel (yellow) chain will cut noticebly quicker. Other recommendation I would make is dump the 20in bar on the 271 and go down to a 18 or even 16 and it will save weight and increase power. Alot of stihl dealers here put the largest acceptable bar on their new saws to charge you more. A good shop will fit the saw to what your intended use is
 

plinker

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The models you have are equivalent; whoever told you the MS271 was a "better quality, more powerful saw" should probably be throat-punched. If you want a "better saw" in that displacement range, you'll have to move up to a pro-level model (one with a vertically-split magnesium crankcase.) In the Stihl line, that's a 261. In the Husky line, it's a 550. You'll note they're significantly more expensive than their non-pro counterparts.

+1,


I had a "safety" chain on one saw and didnt care for it. I have also used an RM semi chisel chain, but greatly prefer a RS full chisel chain for any cutting.
 

greg13

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Another thing to watch is chain size. If you have .325 chain it will never cut like a 3/8 chain. The teeth are smaller and simply do not take as big a bite as 3/8 chain. You would need to change both the bar & sprocket to change over.
 
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freudianfloyd

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Another thing to watch is chain size. If you have .325 chain it will never cut like a 3/8 chain. The teeth are smaller and simply do not take as big a bite as 3/8 chain. You would need to change both the bar & sprocket to change over.

Makes sense. I was holding both debating on which to get, but figured I would stick with the standard size.

Maybe I will upgrade later.
 

ant.foste

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I bought a 271 just yesterday. Good timing for this topic! I bought two 20" green chains with it and I'm guessing I'll be disappointed for what I need to do first with this saw which is drop nine trees 18-25" diameter and turn them into firewood.

If I may ask, how much did you pay for yours? Stihl pricing seems elusive.
 

Treeman

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Men often buy saws based on their testosterone level, not common sense. We run 16" bars/.325 chain on our professional MS261's (same displacement as 271) and a 20" bars/3/8 chain on our 362's. A 20" bar is a lot of power robbing chain to be running on your 50cc 271.

Regarding chains, some are confusing the yellow/green with the semi-chisel/chisel nomenclature......I think.

Stihl Semi chisel (RM) is a kind of hybrid "chipper" chain with a rounded cutter.

Stihl Full chisel (RS) is their angular shaped cutter that still uses a round file. Different than a "real" square chisel tooth.

The green chain is their safety chain, and depending on size (.325,3/8) is available in both semi and/or full chisel.

The yellow chain is their non-safety chain and also is available in either semi and/or full chisel (depending on chain size).

As already stated, while the Stihl full chisel can cut a tiny bit faster, the semi-chisel holds up better to dulling from dirt, etc.. I moved back to the RM type chain because I got tired of the rapid dulling on the type of cutting I often do.

My opinion of safety vs. non-safety is that the Stihl safety chain is light years ahead of the originally introduced, atrocious safety chains of decades past. In my opinion, the Stihl brand safety chain is only very marginally less efficient than their standard chain. I use yellow chain. On my loaner saws I put green chain on only for liability concerns.
 
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freudianfloyd

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I bought a 271 just yesterday. Good timing for this topic! I bought two 20" green chains with it and I'm guessing I'll be disappointed for what I need to do first with this saw which is drop nine trees 18-25" diameter and turn them into firewood.

If I may ask, how much did you pay for yours? Stihl pricing seems elusive.

I bought it last summer, the saw was 399.99 before tax.
 

B_Bimmer

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Safety chain is still atrocious, and I would argue more dangerous due to the frustration it causes in use and maintenance. Total junk.
 

ATTappman

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One thing I've learned from owning 7 different saws over the years (3 Stihls, 2 Huskys, 1 Dolmar, 1 Echo) is that my perception of how well a saw is performing after a single session is entirely unreliable. Each time I've bought a new saw, my first reaction will be either 1) man this thing is a beast! Why didn't I get one a long time ago. 2) This thing doesn't cut worth a ****! I wasted my money.

After many uses, saws that initially produced reaction #1 will eventually produce reaction #2, and vice versa. There are a lot of variables: e.g. wood species, wood diameter, wood condition, chain tension, cutter sharpness, raker height, state of tune, and so on, that will affect your perception of how well a saw is cutting. Unless you time it cutting cookies off a uniform diameter log, and average over many cuts, it's hard to say that one saw really cuts significantly faster than another, as long as they have the same displacement. Yellow vs. green label chain might make a difference, but it won't be huge. Like 8.9 seconds to make a cut vs. 9.2 seconds. Not 5 seconds vs. 10 seconds.

I use yellow label simply because it's easier to file the rakers without the extra bumper.
 

ant.foste

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Men often buy saws based on their testosterone level, not common sense. We run 16" bars/.325 chain on our professional MS261's (same displacement as 271) and a 20" bars/3/8 chain on our 362's. A 20" bar is a lot of power robbing chain to be running on your 50cc 271.

Regarding chains, some are confusing the yellow/green with the semi-chisel/chisel nomenclature......I think.

Stihl Semi chisel (RM) is a kind of hybrid "chipper" chain with a rounded cutter.

Stihl Full chisel (RS) is their angular shaped cutter that still uses a round file. Different than a "real" square chisel tooth.

The green chain is their safety chain, and depending on size (.325,3/8) is available in both semi and/or full chisel.

The yellow chain is their non-safety chain and also is available in either semi and/or full chisel (depending on chain size).

As already stated, while the Stihl full chisel can cut a tiny bit faster, the semi-chisel holds up better to dulling from dirt, etc.. I moved back to the RM type chain because I got tired of the rapid dulling on the type of cutting I often do.

My opinion of safety vs. non-safety is that the Stihl safety chain is light years ahead of the originally introduced, atrocious safety chains of decades past. In my opinion, the Stihl brand safety chain is only very marginally less efficient than their standard chain. I use yellow chain. On my loaner saws I put green chain on only for liability concerns.

I bought it last summer, the saw was 399.99 before tax.

Correction regarding my purchase: I bought a 291, not a 271. I had been looking at a 271, as well as a 261, but ultimately settled on the 291 with a 20" bar.
 

Trapps

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I have run the RS3 green back to back with an RS yellow in my MS311 x20" through fresh oak and maple. I noticed an improvement in efficiency with the RS, but I don't think it holds its edge as long.
 

Bondo

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My question is, do any of you with real-world experience know if I will see much cutting difference besides when plunging or boring? Most of the time I am felling, or just lopping off branches, and cutting up firewood.

Ayuh,..... Safety chains are for pussies, 'n they ****,.....

Ya can't grind the rakers low enough, small enough,.....
I bought 1 by mistake once, 'n ended up throwin' it away,...

I agree with the others, Update yer chain, sprocket, 'n bar to 3/8", 'n go full chisel chain,....
That little saw oughta have a 16" bar, maybe 18",.... 20" is to big for it's power,....
My 290 has a 20", 'n it's still to big, but I like it because my chains, 'n bars will also fit my ole 044,....
 

jonshonda

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I doubt it will make a huge difference, but you need to run through several tanks of gas before you are getting full power output on the saw. Prob wouldn't hurt to sharpen the chain just to eliminate that variable.
 

Treeman

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Here's a decent comparison of green vs. yellow by a fellow learning to improve his skills:

 
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