Rebar ground stake with tie down D ring

[anothertor]

I need to drive a stake into the ground to tie off the bottom of a rope ladder. It is right next to a tree so twist in anchors wont work.

I'm imagining a long rebar rod hammered into the ground, and a tie down plate with a hole a the middle. I put the rebar through plate before driving in, mushroom (unsettle? rivet?)the rebar top to lock the plate on.

This will give me a flat, no sharp edges, anchor plate in the ground that i can tie ladder to.

Has anyone tried something similar? After driving the bar mostly into the ground what kind of hammer would one use to form the end if the rebar? ( i have ball peens but unsure about face shape)

Thanks everyone!

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[mike13u]

They make threaded eye nuts (an eye bolt but with female threads instead of male). If you want to sink a threaded rod down into the ground versus a piece of rebar, then all you need to do is thread the eye bolt on and you are done. No plate needed.

 

[anothertor]

My prior experience with using rod as stakes is they always deform when being driven in. I assume that would be a problem?

They make threaded eye nuts (an eye bolt but with female threads instead of male). If you want to sink a threaded rod down into the ground versus a piece of rebar, then all you need to do is thread the eye bolt on and you are done. No plate needed.

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[mike13u]

My prior experience with using rod as stakes is they always deform when being driven in. I assume that would be a problem?

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Like rebar, threaded rod comes in various sizes. You can get it as thick as your proposed rebar.

 

[anothertor]

The more i think about it, themore I like this idea. Thanks

Like rebar, threaded rod comes in various sizes. You can get it as thick as your proposed rebar.

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[lis2323]

Like rebar, threaded rod comes in various sizes. You can get it as thick as your proposed rebar.

Use this^^. Double nut the end to cover exposed threads and pound on. Remove nuts, drop on cover plate (if needed or desired) and screw on "eye" nut.

More work, but personally I would weld a square plate with an eye on the end of appropriate sized. round stock or rebar.
Slip a section of pipe OVER the eyelet (and contacting the plate) and pound'er in.

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[matt_i]

The problem I see with being reliant on peening the end of a rebar over, is that this relies on a close slip fit between the drilled (?) hole at the rebar OD. However the rebar OD is not round, its sort of an oval-ish with a seam that protrudes. So the hole will have to be drilled larger.

I would think that welding the plate from both sides (plug weld + fillet weld) would yield a strong connection.

 

[anothertor]

True. A welder would have provided lots if solutions. Local shop has 1/2 hot dipped galvanized threaded rod for 6.00. Im going to go that route.

The problem I see with being reliant on peening the end of a rebar over, is that this relies on a close slip fit between the drilled (?) hole at the rebar OD. However the rebar OD is not round, its sort of an oval-ish with a seam that protrudes. So the hole will have to be drilled larger.

I would think that welding the plate from both sides (plug weld + fillet weld) would yield a strong connection.

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[elvee]

a straight rod makes a terrible ground anchor. When we are doing earth anchors for temporary event structures we use duck bill anchors or manta ray anchors - both being a rated ground anchor available in a number of sizes and intended for driving into the ground. They give you a wire rope tail with eyelet for attaching. For your purposes there are some great little duck bills. Just google duck bill anchor.

The only time we use threaded anchors or rod anchors is when we can put a washer / plate fitting at the end and then set it into concrete. For the hassle you just described of trying to peen a rod or effectively sink a threaded rod, the duck bill will be in place and done.

 

[Lelandwelds]

So, you want to put a rod that can impale at the foot of a ladder? I missed the part where you explained a goal.

Isn't the point of a rope ladder in a tree house is to be able to pull it up after yourself? At the top, you tie it off five feet above your platform.

 

[BD1]

Maybe consider adding flat stock triangle wings for the in ground part. Two, three, or four, like a rocket ship

 

[racingtadpole]

Use angle and drill a hole in one face to put a small D or Bow shackle through. The angle will resist the movement of the ladder better than a rod or flat and the mushrooming can be cleaned up with a grinder after being driven in.

 

[joe49]

So, you want to put a rod that can impale at the foot of a ladder? I missed the part where you explained a goal.

Isn't the point of a rope ladder in a tree house is to be able to pull it up after yourself? At the top, you tie it off five feet above your platform.

A read of the posts made by the op would answer your 1st question, as that would seem to be his concern.
Seems you have never tried climbing a free hanging rope ladder either.

 

[Joe Huld]

My wife asks me make ground stakes anytime a tree or bush is not leaning in the direction she wants; which happens a lot. I simply bend a 1 inch ID eye on the end of a piece of round stock and point the other end. Usually pretty easy to drive 1/2 inch stakes up to 2 feet long in without bending using a 40 oz hammer.
Attached is a picture of an eye on a 15 inch piece of stock, I made this to serve as the striker for a triangular dinner bell so it is shorter and not pointed as a ground stake would be. The round eye is safe enough that we've not had any injuries in the 25+ years I have done this.
I made this cold in my Hossfeld bender but it can be done hot around a mandrel held upright in a vise if you first bend enough stock to form the eye at a right angle and then start the eye at that bend. The approximate allowance for the bend is the ID of the eye plus the stock diameter times 3.141

 

[anothertor]

My wife asks me make ground stakes anytime a tree or bush is not leaning in the direction she wants; which happens a lot. I simply bend a 1 inch ID eye on the end of a piece of round stock and point the other end. Usually pretty easy to drive 1/2 inch stakes up to 2 feet long in without bending using a 40 oz hammer.
Attached is a picture of an eye on a 15 inch piece of stock, I made this to serve as the striker for a triangular dinner bell so it is shorter and not pointed as a ground stake would be. The round eye is safe enough that we've not had any injuries in the 25+ years I have done this.
I made this cold in my Hossfeld bender but it can be done hot around a mandrel held upright in a vise if you first bend enough stock to form the eye at a right angle and then start the eye at that bend. The approximate allowance for the bend is the ID of the eye plus the stock diameter times 3.141

Looks great. I have never tried to work metal before. And i am ashamed to admit on gj that my vice is very very small. :-(

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[anothertor]

My wife and i were very excited to climb the ladder. Thirty seconds in we were like "oh **** this isn't what we thought it would be"

A read of the posts made by the op would answer your 1st question, as that would seem to be his concern.
Seems you have never tried climbing a free hanging rope ladder either.

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[ttpete]

A read of the posts made by the op would answer your 1st question, as that would seem to be his concern.
Seems you have never tried climbing a free hanging rope ladder either.

Back in my younger days, I climbed a lot of free hanging rope ladders. Navy ships at anchor tied their small boats off to boat booms. You walk out on the boom and climb down a rope ladder to the boat. When securing the boat, you climb up the ladder and walk back on the boom to the ship. The trick when climbing is to climb up the side of the ladder instead of the face.

http://navyadministration.tpub.com/14067/css/Parts-Of-A-Boat-Boom-97.htm

 

[lis2323]

Looks great. I have never tried to work metal before. And i am ashamed to admit on gj that my vice is very very small. :-(

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I doubt ANY GJ'ers would like to admit to possessing ANYTHING small...


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[tarbellb]

Those Duckbill anchors look very slick, one on each side would likely be a 10min job and $20.

 

[anothertor]

Those Duckbill anchors look very slick, one on each side would likely be a 10min job and $20.

Yeah i forgot to Google those. I really like that solution. Props to whoever pointed those out!

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[joe49]

Navy also, EN so I had some experience with rope ladders on to whale boats and launches.

 

[anothertor]

I am not in military shape. More of a "bod by budda" kinda guy. Plus my kids are young and I would like to try and minimize homeowners claims by neighbors.

So anything that makes it a little easier would be nice.

Navy also, EN so I had some experience with rope ladders on to whale boats and launches.

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[joe49]

Use a solid ladder.

 

[ttpete]

Navy also, EN so I had some experience with rope ladders on to whale boats and launches.

I was an EN also. Stood a lot of lifeboat watches along the way.

 

[anothertor]

Just wanted to update. The duckbill anchor worked fantastically. Thank you all for the ideas!

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[Muckin_Slusher]

a straight rod makes a terrible ground anchor. When we are doing earth anchors for temporary event structures we use duck bill anchors or manta ray anchors - both being a rated ground anchor available in a number of sizes and intended for driving into the ground. They give you a wire rope tail with eyelet for attaching. For your purposes there are some great little duck bills. Just google duck bill anchor.

The only time we use threaded anchors or rod anchors is when we can put a washer / plate fitting at the end and then set it into concrete. For the hassle you just described of trying to peen a rod or effectively sink a threaded rod, the duck bill will be in place and done.

How do you remove those after you're done using them?

 

[Gotcha640]

How do you remove those after you're done using them?

Shovel?