Rebar in Apron

[Rodbolt]

I'm getting ready to have an apron and sidewalk poured in front of my new garage I'm building. The apron will be about 32'X20' in front of the garage doors and the sidewalk will be about 18'X4'. My question is whether or not I should spend the extra $468 to have rebar put in the apron. I would like to hear feedback from folks that have experience either way in regards to the apron and not the slab. I had the slab done with ample rebar and would not have it any other way. I'm just questioning the importance of it on the outside portion that's not supporting my building. Thanks!


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[Jeff Ivers]

I installed aprons on both sides of my shop and a separate pad for parking a trailer on. I installed re-bar in all of it and am very glad I did. Part of the aprons are sloped and receive uneven loads when pulling a trailer across them. I believe without the re-bar I would have had some serious cracking by now.

 

[coljar]

My apron has re-bar and wire mesh in it. As stated above, it also recieves uneven loads and one small corner still cracked as concrete guys will tell you it will.

 

[stingry]

Personally I do not think the rebar is necessary. The apron to my farm shop does not have rebar and has had tractors and combines driven over it without even a crack. More importantly, I believe, is to have the ground under the slab properly compacted and prepared. Also, I do not believe that rebar will prevent cracking of concrete, It will help keep the slab in place if it does crack. Certainly the rebar won't hurt and if the additional $468 will give you peace of mind, go for it!!

Cheers
Steve

 

[clarkebd]

For $468 I think it's a no brainer to get it. You will always have that in the back of your mind if you skip out on it at this point - and it's not like you can go back and add it in later.

 

[kbs2244]

At that size it is not an apron, it is an uncovered slab.
It needs rebar.

 

[mikeyr]

$468 for 32 INCHES by 20ft. ? that seems excessive to me, I won't pour concrete without steel in it, either rebar or mesh but that $468 is ridiculously expensive.

 

[LX-Markham]

Also, I do not believe that rebar will prevent cracking of concrete, It will help keep the slab in place if it does crack.

Correct. Concrete is gonna crack, whether by shrinkage or flexure.

For an exterior slab exposed to chlorides, that rebar should be epoxy coated. That may explain the high cost. I would ask.

And if you do install the rebar, make sure they chair it properly. Standard contractor practice is to simply 'lift' the rebar mat as they are placing the concrete. Rebar ends up settling back down to the bottom of the slab where it is useless.

 

[Rodbolt]

$468 for 32 INCHES by 20ft. ? that seems excessive to me, I won't pour concrete without steel in it, either rebar or mesh but that $468 is ridiculously expensive.

32 foot by 20 foot.


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[Rodbolt]

Correct. Concrete is gonna crack, whether by shrinkage or flexure.

For an exterior slab exposed to chlorides, that rebar should be epoxy coated. That may explain the high cost. I would ask.

And if you do install the rebar, make sure they chair it properly. Standard contractor practice is to simply 'lift' the rebar mat as they are placing the concrete. Rebar ends up settling back down to the bottom of the slab where it is useless.

This is the same guy who poured my slab. He did place the rebar on stands and did an outstanding job on it so I trust his work.


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[cleveman]

I'll go with the cornhusker from western NE.

You want 4" min. of crushed, compacted rock under the concrete. I go with fiber, not re-rod, except around the perimeter. This will minimize cracks and keep the up and down business from happening.

 

[ConCretin]

Some good advice above so most of this has been said but maybe I can summarize;

The most important thing is a stable, well compacted base material. Depending on your soils, 6-12" thick. This is what will support the loads you place on the slab. Rebar won't help very much in a 4 or 5 inch slab

Rebar doesn't help much with shrinkage cracks either but here is no reason to expect cracks in a 32 x 20 slab if you place and cure it correctly. Keep the water content in the mix low and moist cure for a week.

So basically the rebar is just insurance. If you have a problem with one of the above mentioned points and get a crack, rebar will hold everything together and maintain the structural integrity of you slab. For $468, I'd call it cheap insurance.

With all due respect to previous posters; Epoxy coated bars are not necessary in your application. With regard to fibermesh, it's designed to inhibit early age shrinkage cracks and is pretty useless if a crack occurs. Fiber and rebar have different purposes are not interchangeable.

 

[48windsor]

I will chime in here . Understand that rebar does just that reinforces the concrete . Now most approaches are 6 in. thick so it would take a lot to crack that. Most do not have rebar . Because of the thickness . but rebar would help keep concrete somewhat together if it does crack. I drive my cement mixer over approaches daily and they dont crack . Make sure its at least a 2500 psi mix if not better . Dont forget the base underneath will help too.
I hope I ve helped

 

[Rodbolt]

Thanks for all of your input. I ended up having my concrete guy do rebar in the apron. Seemed worth the money in peace of mind and I can't add it later.


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