Rebuild Craftsman Jack?

[Lyaec350]

My Craftsman Pro 3.5 ton floor jack has slowly been giving up the ghost.... At first it would just leak a bit of fluid when it was raised all the way up, but now it will lift the saddle up to height but not lift any weight. I am assuming I need to rebuild the cylinder--does anybody know if this is possible for an individual to do or where I can get the parts? The people at my local Sears were, of course, clueless.

Thanks!

 

[billymade]

First, I would get the model #; it is usually set up like this: ***.XXXXXX and goto this link:http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?sid=PSHx20080114x00001
Put in your model# and see what comes up. I had a customer with the same issue and I told him that you could "probably" rebuild it; when we looked up this model #, they only offered a new replacement hydraulic unit and not a rebuild kit. Thats not to say if you tried on your own to match up the parts at a hydraulic parts house you could fix it yourself but in this case, the newer units don't seem to offer the kits. Next, I pulled the manual out of the box of a new one just like he had and it stated in writing they were not "rebuildable" and the exploded view did not show a rebuild kit but only a replacement part for the hydraulic unit. Whether, this is a cost factor or safety issue; I don't know. I think when I called the parts dept. they didn't have one either (rebuild kit) but they did offer a replacement hydraulic unit. Unfortunately, the hydraulic unit was too expensive to be cost effective; this is a reflection of the Chinese based manufacturing problem, stuff is throw away at this point. From all the research I have done on the web, the chinese jacks do not seem to have repair parts to back them up. Here is a interesting quote from this website:http://www.hyjacks.com/wichjac.htm
"And While We're Speaking of '**** coming out of China...
In early May of 1998 I had the opportunity to talk with a Vice President of a major jack manufacturer. We talked about the future of American jacks, especially with his company making a big move into importing Chinese jacks in the next year, During the course of the conversation he mentioned that he was at a trade show and had gotten into an argument with a VP from another major jack maker about importing jacks. Somewhere along the line the question of 'How many cycles can you get from a typical, bargain priced, All-Chinese made floor jack before it starts leaking' came up. They BOTH agreed on the number 10! Let me say that again, two VP's from major jack makers agree that you will only get 10 (ten) uses out of a typical ($59 - $79) All-Chinese made floor jack before it starts to leak!!!

I guess if you only use a jack 3 or 4 times a year to change your oil or adjust your brakes you might get a few years of use out of a cheap All-Chinese made floor jack, but if you are at all SERIOUS about using a floor jack - Quite honestly, you're ******* away your money on one!

So, there you go - Your Mileage May Vary..."
His site has some very good advice and jacks, everything he sells is rebuildable!

 

[Lyaec350]

Model #214 50145 on the jack...

"Power unit assembly = $103" I think the whole kit was $150 w/ stands...

I haven't tried just chaning the oil--what type of oil do you use? Just general hydraulic oil?

 

[billymade]

We sell the oil at Sears but any auto parts store such as Autozone or the better places like NAPA should have it as well; heck I think I have even seen it at Walmart! Add oil and you might try to "bleed" the unit and see if that helps. Here is a link to a website that will help troubleshooting your jack and how to bleed the unit! http://www.hyjacks.com/H7.HTM If your jack is leaking, then most likely you need new internal seals and the cylinder probably needs to be re-honed. This is because many times the inside will be rusted and full of gunk. If you took it apart, you maybe able to find similar parts to repair it but there is no guarantee. If you have the time and are adventurous, you might try it out. From what I have been reading on the web, people have had various ranges of success but many are having a hard time matching up non standard sized parts such as o rings and other internal parts. Good luck!

 

[Jbullfrog]

You will have to go to a jack repair shop to get parts. Check http://www.shinnfuamerica.com

This is the company that builds all of the Craftsman hydraulic products. They have dealer/service centers nationally, or will sell direct if you don't have a service center in your area. I got the kits for my 20 ton jack and Porto-Power cylinder from them.

 

[Lyaec350]

It has leaked very slowly... I think I will try new oil and if that doesn't work I will take it apart and have a look. Last resort would be ordering the part from ShinnFu or Sears. Shinnfu wants $120 for the replacement shipped to me...

 

[Jbullfrog]

You could start by backing the release valve out to check for debri in the seat. Just don't loose the ball. I have had this with a creeping floor jack before.

 

[Uncle Buck]

Sears (for your jack) and most reputable hyd cylinder repair shops should have, or can get rebuild kits for most any jack as long as you have model & serial # for them. You can rebuild any floor jacks or any other hyd equipment you are brave enough to try rebuilding at home. Generally the first big challenge you will encounter from the cylinder once you actually have removed the bottle and have it on the bench, or in the vise is the removal of the usually large sized nut at the outer end of the bottle that surrounds the ram, on more than on occasion I have found this to be a rather daunting task. I have used chain wrenches and pipe wrenches to usually remove this nut. (I never use heat)

Once the ram nut (since I am untrained that is what I have always called it) is removed I clean everything at the parts wash tank and do my best to really clean everything well. I then let it all dry. Meanwhile I toss all the soft parts in a bowl or tub of new jack oil to soak: which I am sure is not nearly as important as it used to be since leather cup washers are all but non existant in new replacement kits these days. Although regardless the material o-rings and rebuild parts are made of you need to coat everything with new clean hyd fluid before installing the new parts. Another often needed service issue on rebuilding hyd bottles is replacing, or cutting/dressing the seats that the rebuild kit parts ride in ( I am not equipped to do this so I just always hope for the best!) When evrything is as clean as I can make it I spread new rags out on the bench and take my freshly lubed parts and reassemble them into the bottle.

( I almost forgot 3 very important aspects,1) before you begin, always drain the bottle first, 2) Watch out closely for how parts come out of the jack, in particular situations such as two ball bearings one stacked on another and they are not the same size, thus you need to know which one is on top and which is on the bottom? 3) Once you are sure you have any small springs and ball bearings removed from all the small passages I take compressed air and blow through all the passages to assure they are clear prior to reassembly.)

Cleanliness is of the utmost importance rebuilding jacks in the same way it is with any other hyd system such as brakes. Upon reassembly I cannot give exact intructions on how to bleed the cylinder of any air, all I know is I extend the ram and usually monkey around with it a bit and they start working!

BTW, When cylinders leak at the front of the bottle the fluid is leaking past the big cup shaped washer attached to the end of the ram, and obviously when they leak from the rear it is usually an o ring, or a gland packing washer leaking which sometimes can be fixed by tightening the gland nuts at the back of the cylinder just a wee bit more (do not horse it!)

So yes you can rebuild your own jacks if you want to; I have not fixed every single one I tried to but I have fixed about 90% of them as I described above. Good Luck!

 

[Lyaec350]

Thanks for the input guys... this is exactly the kind of stuff I was hoping for. I will try taking it apart this weekend. What kind of store would have these parts you were talking about? Our fleet farm has a big aisle of hydrualic cylinders, parts, and plumbing, we also have a tractor supply and a Northern tool, do you think any of these would have the appropriate parts?

 

[64merc]

I've never repaired any hydraulic equipment before, but my grandfather used to do it as a hobby after he retired. He was 80 and had only about 40% of his eyesight left and he could still do it before he passed away. Based on this, I would say that it is definitely possible to repair a jack in your garage, assuming that the proper care is taken.

I will say that I remember him telling me that most of the cheapy jacks sold nowadays are not intended to be rebuilt (disposable), so that is why they don't sell entire kits like they do for the expensive jacks. He wouldn't mess with them. With that said, it may be worth a try to find all of the repair parts individually if you can't find a complete set.

 

[Uncle Buck]

Thanks for the input guys... this is exactly the kind of stuff I was hoping for. I will try taking it apart this weekend. What kind of store would have these parts you were talking about? Our fleet farm has a big aisle of hydrualic cylinders, parts, and plumbing, we also have a tractor supply and a Northern tool, do you think any of these would have the appropriate parts?

Check the web links the other posters provided, an exact fit kit for your model of jack is what you need. Unless you are an expert I would not want to try piecing together what is needed to rebuild a jack. I always get a kit from a Hyd repair/rebuild shop or the manufacturer of the jack if possible. Remember you need model/serial numbers for kits, they are your friends.

 

[Uncle Buck]

I've never repaired any hydraulic equipment before, but my grandfather used to do it as a hobby after he retired. He was 80 and had only about 40% of his eyesight left and he could still do it before he passed away. Based on this, I would say that it is definitely possible to repair a jack in your garage, assuming that the proper care is taken.

I will say that I remember him telling me that most of the cheapy jacks sold nowadays are not intended to be rebuilt (disposable), so that is why they don't sell entire kits like they do for the expensive jacks. He wouldn't mess with them. With that said, it may be worth a try to find all of the repair parts individually if you can't find a complete set.

Lotta truth in that!

 

[Lyaec350]

Check the web links the other posters provided, an exact fit kit for your model of jack is what you need. Unless you are an expert I would not want to try piecing together what is needed to rebuild a jack. I always get a kit from a Hyd repair/rebuild shop or the manufacturer of the jack if possible. Remember you need model/serial numbers for kits, they are your friends.

Thats the thing, as I said in previous posts the entire "power unit" needs to be replaced as per the Craftsman parts website ($103 part). I also emailed the guys at ShinnFu and they want $100+$12 shipping for the "power unit". Nobody has just the rebuild parts.

 

[64merc]

Thats the thing, as I said in previous posts the entire "power unit" needs to be replaced as per the Craftsman parts website ($103 part). I also emailed the guys at ShinnFu and they want $100+$12 shipping for the "power unit". Nobody has just the rebuild parts.

Listen to my grandfather, those cheapy jacks were not intended to be rebuilt!! It is possible to rebuild them, but you'll have to buy the parts individually, if they're even available. Aside from this, it is time to start looking for a new jack. I would look at getting a used, good quality jack, if money is a concern.

 

[Uncle Buck]

Thats the thing, as I said in previous posts the entire "power unit" needs to be replaced as per the Craftsman parts website ($103 part). I also emailed the guys at ShinnFu and they want $100+$12 shipping for the "power unit". Nobody has just the rebuild parts.

Since that is the case you could try tearing it down and piecing it together a part at a time if you are dedicated enough to it or do as I do and find an old Walker, Blackhawk or Hein Warner that either works great and buy a used one, or find one of the aforementioned brands that needs a rebuild for say $20.00 and rebuild it yourself!

 

[64merc]

Since that is the case you could try tearing it down and piecing it together a part at a time if you are dedicated enough to it or do as I do and find an old Walker, Blackhawk or Hein Warner that either works great and buy a used one, or find one of the aforementioned brands that needs a rebuild for say $20.00 and rebuild it yourself!

I like your advice sir.

With that said, those boogers are hard to find, at least in my area. It seems that everyone uses cheapies nowadays.

 

[Uncle Buck]

I like your advice sir.

With that said, those boogers are hard to find, at least in my area. It seems that everyone uses cheapies nowadays.

I have been lucky finding oldies, I have 3 old Walker long frames, 1950's vintage at least, 1 Blackhawk short frame I use most, 1 Walker hyd only no air assist end lift many Walker and Blackhawk bottle jacks, and gave the bro in law an old Blackhawk end lift! I also have 2 more old Blackhawk short frames and an old long frame of unknown brand awaiting rebuilds. I never have paid more than 20.00 for any one of them, many were free!

 

[Abodyracer]

When I started working a sears I was told that rebuild kits are no longer available for floor jacks. Some of the old timers have told me that we used to stock them and we could rebuild them in house or sell a kit to the customer. Sears got away from that due to liability reasons. We have been told if it is still in warranty to just replace it.

 

[Uncle Buck]

When I started working a sears I was told that rebuild kits are no longer available for floor jacks. Some of the old timers have told me that we used to stock them and we could rebuild them in house or sell a kit to the customer. Sears got away from that due to liability reasons. We have been told if it is still in warranty to just replace it.

That is the perfect reason for buying the HF version instead of the Craftsman badged version since really at the end of the day they are still brothers under the skin.

I am not saying the HF is the hands down best, simply that I do not see where a Craftsman paint scheme makes their jack worth more money.

The only alternative to cheap jacks these days is to rebuild as I do or go the other direction and spend tons of money for new quality jacks.

 

[Coach James]

This is slightly off topic but how accurate are the tonnage figures on these jacks? My dad still uses the Craftsman 1.5 ton jack he bought 35 years ago. It cost him $100 back then which was the same as his house payment at the time. I think that jack could lift the Titanic.

I see all these jacks now labeled 2 tons to 4 tons for $80 to $150 and find it hard to believe there isn't some fantasy in those numbers. My dad's jack has a larger saddle than the ones I see now plus it is much, much heavier than the ones I see for sale now.

Coach

 

[Uncle Buck]

This is slightly off topic but how accurate are the tonnage figures on these jacks? My dad still uses the Craftsman 1.5 ton jack he bought 35 years ago. It cost him $100 back then which was the same as his house payment at the time. I think that jack could lift the Titanic.

I see all these jacks now labeled 2 tons to 4 tons for $80 to $150 and find it hard to believe there isn't some fantasy in those numbers. My dad's jack has a larger saddle than the ones I see now plus it is much, much heavier than the ones I see for sale now.

Coach

You landed squarely on one of my biggest pet peeves of new jacks regardless the quality, and that is the puny lift saddle plates that come on the new jacks, I for one despise the small saddle size!

If the jack is made to ASME or ANSI standards, which any sane manufacturer would do if for no other reason than product liability I am sure that the jack is not only tested to the rated capacity, but to some percentage beyond the stated rating as well. Commonly such standards call for the product to have an actual lift capacity of say 125% of the capacity stated by the manufacturer. At least this is how any lift equipment or other products that need the additional safety margin generally work.

I think what you are seeing are ads for products that will do as the manufacturer says, but since they are cheap **** compared to the jack you are referring to will perform a few years as opposed to a jack that will stand up to many years of hard use and are still rebuildable and not disposed of after all their hard work!

 

[kbs2244]

I would guess the primary reason for the lack of rebuild kits is legal.
The liability issues are just to great.
If you sell a guy parts and he puts them together wrong, and he hurts himself, you should have known better then to sell the parts in the first place.

 

[Uncle Buck]

I would guess the primary reason for the lack of rebuild kits is legal.
The liability issues are just to great.
If you sell a guy parts and he puts them together wrong, and he hurts himself, you should have known better then to sell the parts in the first place.

I disagree, using that logic you would have a very difficult time finding an auto parts store to sell you parts!

 

[Mike7411]

Repair Craftsman Jack? // revisited

My 3-ton Craftsman Model 875.50186 jack is leaking. I'm fairly certain the fluid is coming from around the "plunger" that's linked to the handle and forces fluid into the cylider. It looks like the O-ring there has failed and part of it is protruding from the bore. Except for the leak, the jack still functions well (so far).

I've read this thread and Googled a bit looking for repair help. So far no joy, except to replace the entire "power unit assembly" at the cost of about $120.

Has anyone here found a source of O-rings / seals for this particular jack? I couldn't find any at Shinn Fu.

If your jack has suffered a similar failure (a leak around the plunger) and you fixed it, how did you fix it?

If you've replaced the entire power unit assembly, does the assembly include a new plunger? From the exploded parts diagram in the owner's manual, it looks like it does, but I'm looking for clarification.

Thanks for any help!

 

[Hiball]

Re: Repair Craftsman Jack? // revisited

My 3-ton Craftsman Model 875.50186 jack is leaking. I'm fairly certain the fluid is coming from around the "plunger" that's linked to the handle and forces fluid into the cylider. It looks like the O-ring there has failed and part of it is protruding from the bore. Except for the leak, the jack still functions well (so far).

I've read this thread and Googled a bit looking for repair help. So far no joy, except to replace the entire "power unit assembly" at the cost of about $120.

Has anyone here found a source of O-rings / seals for this particular jack? I couldn't find any at Shinn Fu.

If your jack has suffered a similar failure (a leak around the plunger) and you fixed it, how did you fix it?

If you've replaced the entire power unit assembly, does the assembly include a new plunger? From the exploded parts diagram in the owner's manual, it looks like it does, but I'm looking for clarification.

Thanks for any help!

Measure the pump piston diameter, measure the thickness of the Oring and give me a shout or head to your local hydraulic shop. I have a tutorial floating around here somewhere.. It's best to send me a Pm as Im pretty busy and don't catch every thread.

 

[Mike7411]

Thanks!

To confirm: You're telling me to measure the diameter of the "plunger," which is about 1/2" diameter. It functions as a small piston to force fluid into the inner cavity of the jack and force the main piston out.

Right?

Unfortunately, the O-ring on the little plunger is only partially protruding from its hole and getting an accurate measurement will be impossible.

FWIW, looking at the parts list in the owner's manual convinces me everything is in metrick units -- the various bolts and screws are, for sure.

Anyway, I'll mic the plunger. It's a start. . .

-- Mike

 

[Hiball]

Thanks!

To confirm: You're telling me to measure the diameter of the "plunger," which is about 1/2" diameter. It functions as a small piston to force fluid into the inner cavity of the jack and force the main piston out.

Right?

Unfortunately, the O-ring on the little plunger is only partially protruding from its hole and getting an accurate measurement will be impossible.

FWIW, looking at the parts list in the owner's manual convinces me everything is in metrick units -- the various bolts and screws are, for sure.

Anyway, I'll mic the plunger. It's a start. . .

-- Mike

Yes.. It will be metric, pull the top two bolts that hold the handle assembly in place. This will give you full access to the pump piston. I would also elevat the rear of the jack with some 2/4's to run the oil to the opposite end of the jack to aid seeing down inside the pump piston cylinder. Some of these jacks used 2 orings versus 1 and they are in grooves that have been machined into the block. A mini oring pick will make removing them much easier, there also might be a backup or two above/below the oring and this might actually be what your seeing.


http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51105

 

[Mike7411]

Thanks. I'll take a looksee and report back. --Mike

 

[altec876]

I've had good luck with Lucas hydraulic sealer in my jack, it was leaking oil followed inst. and haven't seen a drop since

 

[Mike7411]

Thanks, but to confirm, it appears that my jack is leaking because of failed O-ring(s) in the plunger. I appreciate the Lucas tip, however. --Mike

 

[Brian 383]

i just replaced the plunger seals in my craftsman aluminum racing jack. I went to the local menards and picked up the closest sized o-rings they had on hand- #13 7/8 x 11/16 x 3/32. They are very close in size, though they are a little thicker than the ones i had pulled out of them.

toughest part was getting the plunger assembly off....used a 1-1/16" deepwell with an awful lot of leverage and the pump assembly firmly clamped in a sturdy vise.

i used a cheapo o-ring pick to get the old seals out and to finesse the new seals in their bores. New fluid and a few minutes bleeding the system and it works like a champ now.

total cost $.59 per o-ring plus a few bucks for hydraulic oil.

 

[Mike7411]

Thanks for this; it's encouraging info.

I've been reluctant to repair the leaky plunger of my 3-ton Craftsman jack because (1) I don't know how to get the plunger out and (2) I don't know what size O-rings to get.

My jack is leaking from around the plunger. It looks like an O-ring is out of position -- perhaps by overloading the jack -- and is protruding a bit from around the plunger's shaft.

I guess I need to dive in and see if I can fix it. At worst, I'll make a functional-but-leaking jack unusable.

-- Mike

 

[Mike7411]

I forgot:

How did you get the plunger off? The plunger of my jack looks like it would come right out of its bore if one removed the handle "hinge assembly" and then pulled on it.

What exactly did you need to loosen with that 1-1/16" deepwell?

-- Mike

P.S. The design of my particular jack may be quite different than yours; I know.

 

[Hiball]

I forgot:

How did you get the plunger off? The plunger of my jack looks like it would come right out of its bore if one removed the handle "hinge assembly" and then pulled on it.

What exactly did you need to loosen with that 1-1/16" deepwell?

-- Mike

P.S. The design of my particular jack may be quite different than yours; I know.

Post #27, Instructions then a link to a tutorial.

There are some craftsman jacks that use a piston/cylinder set up that screws into the hydraulic body, these also require removing the handle assembly to gain access.

 

[Mike7411]

Closure (I hope!):

I think I fixed my jack, at least for a while.

Rather than being sealed with an O-ring (or rings), I found that the plunger of this particular Craftsman jack is sealed with a rubber "collar." In the case of my jack, part of this collar had been forced out of the hole, and a leak resulted.

I removed the jack handle so I could pull the plunger out of its hole. This allowed me to remove the collar. It looked none the worse for wear, so I put it back in the hole (a pair of hemostats was helpful) and replaced the plunger.

The jack seems to work fine now.

(Why was part of the collar protruding from the hole? I think because I overloaded the jack trying to lift the corner of a 48-ft shipping container.)

-- Mike

 

[Hiball]

Closure (I hope!):

I think I fixed my jack, at least for a while.

Rather than being sealed with an O-ring (or rings), I found that the plunger of this particular Craftsman jack is sealed with a rubber "collar." In the case of my jack, part of this collar had been forced out of the hole, and a leak resulted.

I removed the jack handle so I could pull the plunger out of its hole. This allowed me to remove the collar. It looked none the worse for wear, so I put it back in the hole (a pair of hemostats was helpful) and replaced the plunger.

The jack seems to work fine now.

(Why was part of the collar protruding from the hole? I think because I overloaded the jack trying to lift the corner of a 48-ft shipping container.)

-- Mike

I'd be willing to bet that below that upper seal there are grooves with orings in them, these are what actually seal the pump shaft and move oil. Without seeing your jack, I'm just speculating but most of the time the press in seals around the pump piston are just wipers versus the double lip seal profile that you sometimes see on the tank nut on the older imports.

 

[Mike7411]

You certainly may be right.

I *did* stick my pinky finger into the hole to feel for O-rings and/or grooves, and I found none. There are none on the plunger itself.

Too bad Craftsman doesn't support this jack better. --Mike

 

[VZUKE]

The things you find on the internet! This site and thread are GREAT! I may just try and fix my leaky Craftsman Aluminum Racing jack. It's light and easy to move around. It's Low profile fits under my crouched vehicles.

Okay, that one isn't the leaky one. The leaky one is a little bit bigger. I dug out my "manual" for the jack and was looking through the parts break out. Of course they don't break out into that much detail.

Number 2 was the Power unit Assembly (pump) which is replaceable but no longer available. It's ironic that everything else is available except for the heart of the system. Yes, it probably cost the price of the jack when they had it.

I just couldn't throw the jack away when it soiled the garage floor. Now there is hope that it may lift again. I'll jump back in here as soon as I take it apart and see how it looks on the inside.

Thanks for being here.

 

[R1Rider]

I need help puting my jack pump back together, anyone got pics? its a 214.50145. have some PDF pics but mine is different. the bearings in the holes are not the same size and one of the holes I think had 2 bearings and in the diagram, it shows a pointed plunger? im lost.....

 

[Bacon!]

^ diagrams from that era were pretty terrible, but I do have one from a 214.50136 linked below.

The smaller ball probably goes in the bottom then the larger on top of it.

See also, Hiball's Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial topic:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51105

Edit: Imgur is acting up again, so the diagram I'm trying to post is not showing up consistently. Use this link and keep refreshing that page to see it:
https://i.imgur.com/wzdg53i.jpg