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Rebuild Dad's Chainsaw?

Bolster

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My father left me this little Mcculloch "Eager Beaver" gas chainsaw; I had it running three years ago but now I can't get it to start. Since it was my dad's, it has some sentimental attachment, and I'd rather get it running if I can. The local tool repair shop won't touch it; they gave some excuse about Mcculloch being out of business (it's not; I guess they said that because they didn't want the job?) so I'm sort of on my own here.

chainsaw.jpg


Can anybody point me in the direction I should go to get this running? Do I disassemble, clean, and reassemble? Should I be looking to replace certain parts? Or should I look for another shop that is willing to get it running again?

Thanks, B

EDIT: The Mcculloch service department tells me that the likely problem is that I left gas in it, which has since turned to "varnish," and I'll need to replace gas lines and rebuild the carburetor, for which it's iffy whether I can get gaskets or not. Should I give up on this project before I start? Or would you give it a try?
 
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Uncle Buck

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My father left me this little Mcculloch "Eager Beaver" gas chainsaw; I had it running three years ago but now I can't get it to start. Since it was my dad's, it has some sentimental attachment, and I'd rather get it running if I can. The local tool repair shop won't touch it; they gave some excuse about Mcculloch being out of business (it's not; I guess they said that because they didn't want the job?) so I'm sort of on my own here.

chainsaw.jpg


Can anybody point me in the direction I should go to get this running? Do I disassemble, clean, and reassemble? Should I be looking to replace certain parts? Or should I look for another shop that is willing to get it running again?

Thanks, B

EDIT: The Mcculloch service department tells me that the likely problem is that I left gas in it, which has since turned to "varnish," and I'll need to replace gas lines and rebuild the carburetor, for which it's iffy whether I can get gaskets or not. Should I give up on this project before I start? Or would you give it a try?

Will the chainsaw be any worse off for your effort? :headscrat Nope, just take it apart and try not to damage gaskets, o rings or other parts that you might have a hard time finding. Work slowly and keep the area clean and well organized. I bet it is old fuel though. Good Luck, let us know how it goes. :thumbup:
 

Bo Heck

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gasket material can be bought and you can cut your own, o-rings should be able to be found easily...so I don't think you have anything to lose!
 

walrus

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They use some pretty thin material for gaskets in a chain saw carb. You better be pretty patient trying to make them. But like the others said, what you got to lose:)
 

mastertech2329

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Jonesborough, Tennessee
In reality, the original McCulloch corporation is out of business about 7 years ago. MTD bought the naming rights and the new McCulloch stuff is from Taiwan, but there is little compatability between parts.
MTD doesn't provide parts for any thing past their purchase of the name. If you can find parts it will be from someone with NOS parts still in stock.
The carb kit is readily available either from Walbro or Zama, depending on the manufacturer of the carb. Most of the gaskets for the carb base are available from the aftermarket.
The problem with the old mini mac style saw is, it is extremely time consuming to disassemble enough to get to everything. But since it is your dad's old saw, its more like a labor of love so good luck.
 

DHS

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I believe that the original (good) Mcculloch went out of bussiness/bankrupt and the new owners/company is a asian/china owned, at least that is what I was told by local small engine shop. I believe that the older walbro carbs are all about the same and you could probably just rebuild the carb and not have to tear engine down to much. There may be numbers on carb that can get you a rebuild kit off ebay or local shop. Ebay may be easier. Good luck.
 

krehmkej

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Local saw shop here says 90% of their chainsaw work is carb cleaning. Odds would be in your favor to rebuild/clean the carb before tearing it into a basket case.
 

-B-

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2 cycles are pretty easy to get running if all the seals are still good just clean out the lines and tanks and spray clean the carb with you solvent of choice. ( brakeen , carb etc.)

I did this just a few years ago to a blower and a trimmer that sat for almost a decade. I learned the trick in construction when we only used certain 2 cycle tools once a year for a very short time.
 

The Muffin Man

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Mercer County, NJ
It certainly wouldn't hurt to try getting it running again, especially if there is a sentimental value to it. I would start out like other have said and clean the carb and replace the fuel line. Check the spark plug as well.
 

ImportTuner

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I have that exact chainsaw; after not using it for 5 years, I had the same problem; I filled it with premix gas, let it sit for 2 days and it fired right up; the new gas must have dissolved the varnish or something ..
 

Elroy

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Elroy had one of those as well and it ran GREAT!

The only problem was getting it started! That thing was with out a doubt a real ***** to get started! And Elroy means using every trick in the book to get one to light off!

We can assure you with out doubt or fault it's not getting any fuel. First thing you need to do is pull the top off the carb and replace the diaphragm that is the fuel pump. Any age on it at all and the diaphragm gets stiff and won't pump. A new spark plug and fresh gas is also imperative !

When you put in the new fuel pump, cover it front and back with a real light coating of vaseline. That will help make sure it seals at the little "flap valves" and doesn't **** air along the edges of the metal cap.

Talking about the "cap" or cover. Inspect it carefully for distortion. The ears get bent if the cover screws are run down too tight. A trip across a flat file will solve that little problem.

You'll find that once the carb gets primed and the motor starts, these little things run really well. the problem is getting them to **** the fuel.

Once primed, Elroy could come back to his the next day and it would fire on one pull ! If left for a week it took a good half hour to get started again!

Damn thing.
 
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Bolster

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Well I'll be darned. OK, thanks for the great advice, all. I'll give this a try.

Man alive...what a great forum... ask and it shall be given unto you!
 
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Bolster

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Say, what is the mix on this item? The Mcculloch customer service dude wasn't sure, he said either 16:1 or 32:1.
 

Blacknwhitepit

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Eastern Tennessee
Another issue with these is when Old gas has been in it and someone tries like hell to start it and ends up saturating the Muffler with fuel/oil mixture to the point that the muffler is restricted and it will keep from starting. Other times it will have a bad plug on it, the operators try like crazy to start it, end up saturating the muffler, then putting a good plug on it and "It still won't Start"

I have repaired so many owner screwed up small engines. People sometimes make matters worse by trying to 'tune' the carb themselves. I always used to ask people, "Do you know what those screws do?" They usually always said no. At that point I reminded them that if they don't know what they are for, why are they messing with it?

ANYWAY, The cheap fix:

To see if the muffler is clogged, just take it off and try to start it. If it runs fine, then you may be able to clean out the muffler by lighting it on fire (yes, light the interior of it on fire. It may take a drop or two of gas to get it to light easy, but when it gets going they can burn for 10-15 minutes depending on badly they have been saturated with fuel-oil mixture.

Good luck.

-BWP
 
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ImportTuner

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Say, what is the mix on this item? The Mcculloch customer service dude wasn't sure, he said either 16:1 or 32:1.

I just looked in the manual and it does not say .. ?? The McCulloch oil bottle that I have says 40:1 .. You fill the top container of the oil bottle (oil is stored in the bottom section) and mix with 1 gallon of gas ..
 

Major Ramifications

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Two guys mentioned cleaning the carb with brake cleaner. Brake cleaner doesn't do squat to fuel varnish. Carburetor cleaner is the only way to go. Also, If you have an old time lawnmower shop in your area, they can probably provide gaskets and a diaghram (sp?) if you bring the old ones in.
 
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Bolster

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You guys are a gold mine of valuable info. Thanks so much.

:bowdown:

My treat: all the gopher you can eat, is on me!!
 
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A_Pmech

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IL
My guess is it's got a Weber carb on it. Bring the carb into a saw shop. They'll have the rebuild kit in-stock if they're in business to make money.



To overhaul a Weber, or similar carb:

Remove the tuning restrictor caps on the low and high speed screws of the carb.

Turn the screws in gently, until they bottom. Note the number of turns required to bottom each screw. This will be important after reassembly.

Disassemble the carb carefully.

Shoot out all the passages with carb cleaner, using the supplied straw. Wear safety glasses and gloves, obviously.

Clean the needle seat, install a new needle, install a new diaphragm, install a new top gasket, if it has one. Reinstall the mixture screws.

Remove and rinse out the fuel tank with straight gas.

Reinstall the carb on the saw with a new air filter. Oil the air filter with engine oil lightly, squeezing out ALL the excess.

Turn out the mixture screws per your notes.

Prime and start the saw. Allow it to warm up.

Once warm, adjust the low speed circuit to peak RPM, then slightly rich.

Hold the saw wide open. Adjust the high speed circuit to peak RPM, then rich of peak until the note deepens a little but the engine still revs freely.

Adjust the idle speed high enough that it is smooth, low enough the clutch isn't dragging. (Some ringing OK)

NOTE: As the needles are turned out (counter-clockwise), the mixture is enriched. Be sure to tune rich of peak RPM. 2-strokes rely on the fuel mixture to provide lubrication. Too lean a mixture means too little lubricating oil. Adjust the screws slowly.

Regarding lube ratios: Don't bother. Buy "Sten Mix" or Oregon "Only One". Both are universal lubes, meaning they work in any engine designed for any ratio. Simply dump the whole packet into a gallon jug and shake it up.

Once practiced, it's a 10-minute job out in the trees. :thumbup:
 

Wesley B

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I just took apart one yesterday just messing around. It says on the carb zama. I am guessing zama is a carb manufacturer.
 

Dq383500

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Dec 24, 2007
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Independence La.
Many moons ago I worked for Mcculloch in lake Havasu Az,on the assembly line ,I put together 1000s of the Eager Beaver saws,Maybe that one? Mcculloch shut down the Arizona factory for production in Mexico.Still doesn't make me an expert, as we were just parts assemblers,example piston goes in cylinder,cylinder goes on case,carb goes on cylinder etc.Good advise here,Got spark?and the biggie as a few have said,The carb/fuel pump diaphram. Good luck
 

fordracing200

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Apr 17, 2009
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mehh, one of the worst saws on the market....But I suppose if your after it for the sentimental value, by all means.
 

vssjim

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McLean Va.
Any part that is different from standard parts kit stuff probably can't be found as they did sell off all the old parts to liquidators and when the parts are gone they are gone. A friend had a Mcculloch blower and the gas tank and some other parts got damaged and we found the parts supplier that was selling off stuff but the parts he wanted were long gone and even stuff like air filters you have to make out of universal stuff. The new Mcculloch shares nothing other than name.
 

xring

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Jun 7, 2009
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I have one and mine leaks when I put gas in it. It will start when gas is poured down the spark plug hole but not keep running. I've taken enough of it apart to think that a new one is in order! How does the carb come off? I think the leak is in the line connected to it. Thanks.
Bob
 
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