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rebuilding a garage

proboscis

Member
Joined
Nov 28, 2010
Messages
13
Location
Rockaway, NJ
Hi guys, I have been here for awhile but never posted. We just closed on a house last Friday, and it has a 3-car detached garage. But it is in very poor shape. The roof is shot, there are minimal cross-beams in the roof, so the walls are bowed out and the roof sags. The rubblestone foundation is in poor shape. There was an addition added to the front which I think is causing alot. It has dirt floors, etc.

So, I have been searching this forum for things like that, but haven't found anything. I searched by topic, sorted by replies, etc. So any help pointing in the right direction would be appreciated. Thanks!

Edit: Also, the house is in Rockaway, NJ
 
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captain14

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Dec 19, 2012
Messages
7,023
Location
Near College Park Maryland 20740
Welcome. But we need pictures. Stay on this thread for garage galleries. Two fhreads which come to my mind are THE Derelict Garage by Fergie (sp?) and The Leaning Tower of ... bt talonsair (sp?)

Need your location in your name area. Someone local can direct
You to local info if needed.
 
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proboscis

Member
Joined
Nov 28, 2010
Messages
13
Location
Rockaway, NJ
allright, I have quite a few pics. I just wanted to show the pic overall, which show the sagging, some foundation pics which show some bad stuff, and pics from the 2nd floor which show the roof and bowing walls.



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RoscoTom

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Sep 25, 2010
Messages
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Northern Michigan
Man, when someone asks for pictures, you don't fool around!

Looks like a lot more project than I'd take on, good luck with it.

Tom
 

y'sguy

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May 1, 2010
Messages
1,309
Location
Tulsa, Oklahoma
Cool! Going to be a real challenge! I bet you can do it, stay with it and be cautious. That place has a lot of character that deserves saving in opinion. Most would probly knock it down.

My favorite kind of post!
 

CoopVA

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Jan 20, 2014
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Location
Virginia
How old is the building? It'll be a lot of work, but the potential is great for an awesome garage/shop/sanctuary... Keep us posted on your progress!


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NUTTSGT

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If you can afford to spend a some bucks here and there, have the time, a little skill (or desire to learn while getting dirty) and willing to put in some sweat equity, you sir have a great starting point of a garage.

Keep the weather out of it this winter, develope a course of action and start gathering material.
 

ehegwer

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Austin
Was waiting for NUTTSGT to post- his signature, of "Too much is..... Just Enough." is perfect for the number of photos.

All joking aside, you've got yourself a great little project there. I definitely want to see how it ends up
 

sublime68charger

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SW Wisconsin
Wow that is going to be a fun project and you'll have tons of space to work with.

My first thing would be to get a heavy cable across on the upstairs with at turn buckle and try to get the bowed wall's shored up couple of turns each week and bring the bow back in and then brace that back up.

run a 2x6 across once walls are back where you want and tie the ends to the sill plate Hurricane brackets and then nail or screw them into the rafters so that long 2x6 is holding the rafters at the angle that need to be /_______\ and also they are helping to hold the walls straight.

then for the middle run a 2x6 from the center to the peak to hold up the middle of the roof.

just my thoughts.

How tall is the side walls in the upstairs?
can you run the boards and still be able to walk around with out hitting your head?

and how wide is it from 1 side to the other?
 
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proboscis

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Nov 28, 2010
Messages
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Location
Rockaway, NJ
Thanks so far! The house was built in 1900 so I'm sure the garage is around that vintage. The walls upstairs are around 6' tall, if I put bracing at the top plate, it would really cut down on the head room. So I'm hoping I can put the braces higher up.

So, I did have a few questions. Any opinion on the foundation? It does not look good. Also, any ideas on how to keep the weather out for the winter? Thanks!
 

sublime68charger

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Thanks so far! The house was built in 1900 so I'm sure the garage is around that vintage. The walls upstairs are around 6' tall, if I put bracing at the top plate, it would really cut down on the head room. So I'm hoping I can put the braces higher up.

So, I did have a few questions. Any opinion on the foundation? It does not look good. Also, any ideas on how to keep the weather out for the winter? Thanks!

for my from the hip I'd get 3 cables across from wall to wall where bulging out.

and put turn buckles on them and gradually bring the wall back how you want it. Are the walls bulged out on each side from each other? if just the one wall you'll want to shore up the other wall with a bracing so you done pull it over center. " are the walls straight on the first level and just bulging on the 2nd?"

any way get the walls straight then at the height you want run a 2x6 from
rafter to rafter then I'd run at least a vertical support from the spanned 2x6 up to the center of each rafter. or run 2x4 up each side to support the rafters.

you want to build them up so that the weight pressing down from the roof is a vertical load and not a horizontal load

right now with just the single board across when the roof push's down it puts pressure on the ends to kick out. you put some more vertical support will transfer the load down and not horizontal.

sorry I'm not help with the foundation stuff at all.

though there are many others around here can give you pointers on that stuff.
 

Gizzy

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Jan 18, 2009
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159
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NW Ohio
Looks like it needs a substantial amount of work,but definitely worth it.��
 

levimorris85

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Sep 24, 2012
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Texas Panhandle
Good luck and stay safe working on it. I like the old building and the potential it has but if it were me i would have a hard time trying to save it and would just start over. Pay me now or pay me later comes to mind. Spend a ton of money over the next few years fixing it and hope the foundation holds together in the NJ weather or spend a chunk now and now its done right and will last your entire life. But thats one mans opinion. Plus if you start over you can have the rooms where you want them along with all new electric, and plumbing, air etc and not have to work around something someone else did a centry ago. keep us posted and i am subscribing to this one cause i want to know either way.
 

Denwood

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Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
I'd agree. Job 1 is to address the lack of truss ties. It may easier to just do a new roof with trusses. Scissor trusses would give some interior height and allow you to pull the walls in as well. Also, with the current roof removed, it would a lot easier to line up your walls. Not sure where you're located in terms of snow load, but your roof stringers may be running too long of a span to the peak already. If your plan is to leave it over winter, I'd cable the walls together, or add temporary truss ties.

It's hard to tell from your pics what's going in with your foundation. If you post up a basic floor plan and reference your pics that way, it might help. For sure there's work to do there.
 

NUTTSGT

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So, I did have a few questions. Any opinion on the foundation? It does not look good. Also, any ideas on how to keep the weather out for the winter? Thanks!


If you do have a good shovel or know how to lay concrete blocks, now would the the time to buy one and learn.

I'd probably use 12" blocks (filled) since you are replacing a foundation like that.
 

RoscoTom

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Northern Michigan
Take your time and study it.

It would seem some "measures" have been all ready been taken.

I'm referring to some braces and vertical supports that look newer than the rest.
See if you can tell what the previous owner was trying to fix when he did those things.

Tom
 
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bczygan

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DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
Thanks so far! The house was built in 1900 so I'm sure the garage is around that vintage. The walls upstairs are around 6' tall, if I put bracing at the top plate, it would really cut down on the head room. So I'm hoping I can put the braces higher up.

So, I did have a few questions. Any opinion on the foundation? It does not look good. Also, any ideas on how to keep the weather out for the winter? Thanks!

Repair foundation.

Level everything.

Replace water damaged wood.

Install ceiling joists after pulling walls plumb with come along.

If you need the headroom, raise them up into rafter ties, but reinforce tails of rafters. Fastening is critical.

Add collar ties fastened properly.

Finally, find all water intrusion and remediate it.

Paint, and flash and seal as required.

Check roofing, gutters and downspouts. Lots of water damage evident in photos.

Temp for the winter? Tarp it with good quality tarps held down by boards and nailed in place. Use for entire roof and any walls where wind driven moisture is a danger to the structure.
 
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xtremek

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St. Johns, Mi
There are some threads that have brought old building that might have some nuggets you can gleam. Try "Rehab my 100yr old garage", The Derelict Garage", or even NuttsGt's thread. I've never taken on anything as complicated as what you're doing, but I would think you'd have to start with the foundation.
 

Ajustable

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Niagara
That Garage will have great character If you decide to rebuild it. If it were mine, I would rebuild it, then I do tend to enjoy a reno as much as a completely new build.

I would suggest using a level to see if the corners are still plumb, and take some measurements I various places and write them down for reference. These may come in handy as you move along pulling walls and replacing foundations.

Is the foundation below the frost point? If they are shallow that maybe some of the reasons the building looks to have shifted or sunk.

Any way keep us posted no matter of your choice of the building. You may want to read this post, similar barn as yours.

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237963&highlight=swedish+barn

Good luck Chris
 

Scottwi

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Jul 25, 2012
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Location
Cedarburg, Wisconsin
For have tarps cheap contact the local billboard company and ask for the old vinyl. A standard billboard is 14' tall by 48' wide and the material we print that on is a scrim vinyl that is better than any tarp you find at the box stores.

I use them for all kinds of things even ice rink liners. Think pool liner material.
I can send you some but shipping gets expensive.

Good luck
Subscribed
 

James-W

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Southeastern Wisconsin
I don't mean to sound pessimistic, but if it were me I would burn it down and start over. There is just too much wrong with it. I am sure that with enough tender-love and care it could be fixed up and made usable, but the cost and the time involved to do it would be very high. There are times when it just doesn't pay to repair an old building, and in my opinion this is one of those times. But, if you want to fix it up, I wish you all the best.
 
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proboscis

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Nov 28, 2010
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Location
Rockaway, NJ
Hi all, thanks for all the info! Sorry, I've so busy moving that I haven't had a chance to update the thread. I'm trying to use SketchUp to map out the bad parts to the pictures, but I'm having a hard time. I've had some advice to put up a temporary wall in the front, and then cut down and replace the front, along with new footings. This could help straighten up some of the sagging.

Also, some of the foundation is below the frost point. I will try to point that out in some of the pictures. I would like to raise the foundation in that area. Also, I think I need a french drain along the rear wall since water can run right into the foundation. Not to mention, there is a tree that is pushing on the foundation.

At this point, there is no way I can knock it down. I checked with my town and found out that no accessory building can be higher than 16ft, which this is. So I would never be able to rebuild at the same size.
 

sean Buick 76

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Edmonton Alberta
Hi all, thanks for all the info! Sorry, I've so busy moving that I haven't had a chance to update the thread. I'm trying to use SketchUp to map out the bad parts to the pictures, but I'm having a hard time. I've had some advice to put up a temporary wall in the front, and then cut down and replace the front, along with new footings. This could help straighten up some of the sagging.

Also, some of the foundation is below the frost point. I will try to point that out in some of the pictures. I would like to raise the foundation in that area. Also, I think I need a french drain along the rear wall since water can run right into the foundation. Not to mention, there is a tree that is pushing on the foundation.

At this point, there is no way I can knock it down. I checked with my town and found out that no accessory building can be higher than 16ft, which this is. So I would never be able to rebuild at the same size.

I really admire your interest to fit this up, and I am behind you 100%.... However please consider having a professional do a lot of the work, and you will still have a TON of little things to do but unless you have no job or family to take up your time this project will be REALLY tough to get done by yourself.
 
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proboscis

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Rockaway, NJ
sorry, I forgot to mention that I come from a blue-collar family. My father is a retired carpenter, one of my brothers is currently a carpenter, and my other brother is an electrician!
 

sublime68charger

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sorry, I forgot to mention that I come from a blue-collar family. My father is a retired carpenter, one of my brothers is currently a carpenter, and my other brother is an electrician!

you have a great base of knowledge to draw from.

how far away are they from you can you get there help from time to time?

a few hours of there knowledge to point you in the right direction will keep you busy for a month.
 
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proboscis

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Nov 28, 2010
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Rockaway, NJ
Well, the winter is finally over so it's time to get to work. My insurance co. is requiring me to replace the roof by June, but since nothing is level and in such bad shape, I am just going to slap some roll-roof on to satisfy them. I really want to start with the foundation but it's been discouraging. I just had an inspection from a structural engineer, and today a basement/foundation co. came out to take a look. Both said to knock it down.

I'm a new homeowner so money is tight, I can't afford to even knock it down, let alone rebuild from scratch. So I'm hoping to jack the place up and replace the foundation one section at a time. At least I won't have to worry about sheetrock cracking or anything like that.
 

sublime68charger

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Sounds like a good working plan

Is the current roof leaking at all?
The roll roof to make ins happy is good plan.

The start on foundation getting squared up. That Swedish barn I posted up thread has some great info
To go over

Good luck

Sublime out
 

dgarage

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Oct 24, 2009
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101
Good luck with this. Frost line for Jersey was 36" when I was there. That's a LOT of digging and setup. I really hope you persevere though .
 
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